Gravel Bikes - what exactly are you supposed to do with one?

[yellowjack]

Jimboka said:

I was tempted to buy a gravel bike. But in reality it offers little extra compared to my hybrid!

There is that. Horses for courses, and all that.

I rode my Giant Anthem full suspension mountain bike in my first two Battle On The Beach attempts. I swapped to my drop bar adapted hybrid Cannondale Backroads "gravel bike" for my next two attempts. Reading the article in the current 'Cyclist Off Road' magazine on this year's race, it seems the regular winners, the Dutch 'Team Imming' build their own "specialist" beach race bikes that are more like road bike frames (for aggressive aero positioning on the 5 km beach section) with flat bars (for greater control in the single-track forest sections), and obviously with hydraulic discs, and modern groupsets. So they kinda turn the concept on it's head. But it suits them, and they are regular winners and if they don't win then they're not far behind.

Gravel/adventure bikes are great, but only if they suit the kind of riding you're planning on doing. I love mine, but they're not for everyone.

[anonymous-user]

I like the thought of wider tyres for comfort and disc brakes for safety, these would be spot on to use in the crappy cycle paths in the UK but I doubt many of us will be cutting through the local vineyards on our ride home as they show in the magazines

[wobert]

Thornaby said:

I like the thought of wider tyres for comfort and disc brakes for safety, these would be spot on to use in the crappy cycle paths in the UK but I doubt many of us will be cutting through the local vineyards on our ride home as they show in the magazines

You’d be surprised.....especially regarding your last comment, I’ve actively sought out some local off road sections deliberately to push the envelope.

My two road orientated bikes are a Canyon Endurace and a GT Grade.

The Canyon is a comfort oriented carbon road bike with a sprung seat post and 28mm tyres.

The Grade is aluminium, with 32mm tyres.

Like for like, the Grade is a more forgiving ride, especially on back roads and cycle paths.

However, the Grade is significantly heavier, slower responding and feels more clunky in its operation.

The Canyon feels like a Ferrari in comparison, but horse for courses, each has its use, hence I use both...!!

[IPK]

Not sure Gravel Bike is a valid term for UK. I use mine as a fast comfortable commuting bike that means I can vary my route. Tyre pressure and type makes a massive difference to what you can do with them.

In my opinion a Hardtail would be far quicker off road. Just because you’d stand a chance of staying on it when you hit a tee root etc.

[dr_gn]

Evanivitch said:

dr_gn said:

I only had a mountain bike until last year, but fancied a road bike so I could set off from home for a quick ride without packing the car up and driving somewhere. Having listened to advice about how uncomfortable a true road bike is on the roads around here, I got a Boardman ADV 8.9 on cycle to work. Turns out it’s perfect for me - fairly light, Shimano discs, sensible tyres, very comfortable on roads, plus I can do the 16 mile Ladybower loop (half road/half track) in comfort without lugging a suspension frame around on the road bits.

Couldn’t care less what it’s designated as, or whether it’s marketing bullst - it’s a great bike for road and ‘intermediate’ bridleways. And it only cost £600. There’s also an new electric version out this year (ADV 8.9e) which would make a perfect commuter bike.

If you got an 8.9 for only £600 then I've been robbed! Sure it isn't an 8.8? (Cable disks being obvious difference)

It was about £600 IIRC, after cycle to work discount.

[Evanivitch]

dr_gn said:

It was about £600 IIRC, after cycle to work discount.

I did C2W too, but I don't follow the numbers fudge!

[dr_gn]

Evanivitch said:

dr_gn said:

It was about £600 IIRC, after cycle to work discount.

I did C2W too, but I don't follow the numbers fudge!

I’ll double check today.

[Evanivitch]

dr_gn said:

Evanivitch said:

dr_gn said:

It was about £600 IIRC, after cycle to work discount.

I did C2W too, but I don't follow the numbers fudge!

I’ll double check today.

You're probably right. Because the money is withdrawn from your paycheck pre-tax you can argue that a £1000 C2W voucher has only cost you (@40% band) only £600.

[dr_gn]

Evanivitch said:

dr_gn said:

Evanivitch said:

dr_gn said:

It was about £600 IIRC, after cycle to work discount.

I did C2W too, but I don't follow the numbers fudge!

I’ll double check today.

You're probably right. Because the money is withdrawn from your paycheck pre-tax you can argue that a £1000 C2W voucher has only cost you (@40% band) only £600.

That's right...something like that.

[dogbucket]

As an experiment I fitted the biggest tires I could (28c) to my Cannondale Synapse as I have been toying with the idea of a Gravel Bike for local rides. First impression was how fast it was on the road as I have not ridden it for a few years, and secondly and more to point how fun it was on some gravel and hardpack (again speed related I think). Mud plus rim brakes was less good and a reminder of MTBing in the 90s so I fear the bike would not last too long being used like that.

Looking at the Space Chicken I think 700c wheels will suit me better as I am keen to keep the speed aspect, I am guessing 35-38c tires should still be pretty quick on the road?

[joema]

I brought one last year and rode it once figuring it would make the road bits in between bridleways on the south downs better.

But the bridleways were too bumpy and I hate using drops so I struggled to brake. All the weight is therefore over the front which is retarded.

It wasn't great on road either. A HT 29" bike with some fast rolling tyres isn't much slower and is far better off road.

Sold it. If I want door to door rides I just stick off road and chuck my MTB in the car for off road.

I guess if you have miles of gravel tracks then it would be good.

[Your Dad]

joema said:

the bridleways were too bumpy

I can't remember how I managed in the early 90s - 26" wheels and no suspension versus the Peak District.

[a11y_m]

Good reading here.

Me? 'Gravel' is just touring/hybrid. I've got an aversion to drop bars - didn't get on with the road bike or CX bike I owned - so I've created my own take with a flat-barred gravel bike. AKA a hybrid. Cotic Roadrat, flat bars and barend, 700x40 tyres and full length guards because it's my commuter. Gets used daily for a commute that's mostly tarmac/gravel paths on the way in, but almost all gravel/mud/trailcentre on the ride home. Can't hoon down the rougher bits of trailcentre like I can on my MTBs, but overall its much more suitable than a MTB would be for my use.

However, I'm taking it further this weekend with a new frame - advertised as an 'adventure' bike, so make of that what you will. Geometry/sizing is close to a 80-100 travel 29er hardtail: https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRTITMUTSU/titus-mut...

Bikes - all bikes - are good, end of.

[joema]

Your Dad said:

I can't remember how I managed in the early 90s - 26" wheels and no suspension versus the Peak District.

They weren't great but better than a gravel bike. Weight isn't well over the front and tyres were probably a bit wider so the ride would have been a less harsh.
I hated it but each to their own.

[dr_gn]

Your Dad said:

joema said:

the bridleways were too bumpy

I can't remember how I managed in the early 90s - 26" wheels and no suspension versus the Peak District.

I started in '96 with bodged together rigid GT Karakoram (again vs. the Dark Peak). The experienced mountain bikers in our group all rode rigid bikes - the hardcore ones with new fangled V-brakes. They scoffed when I said after the first ride that the way forward had to be full suspension and disc brakes. Apparently I had to 'learn the craft' on a rigid bike. Absolute load of cobblers - it was st. I bought a full suspension Marin and Hope hydraulic disc brakes as soon as I could afford it and over night was able to ride faster, further and on far more technical routes than before - all in relative comfort.

I've been riding the ADV 8.9 for about 18 months now, and I went out on my full suspension mountain bike for the first time again on Sunday. On the road it felt like an anchor chain in comparison, but like a Rolls-Royce on the rough stuff. At one point, before I bought the ADV, I assumed it wouldn't be that much different from my full-sus StumpJumper (locked-out) on the road, but it's night and day.

I bought it as a comfortable road bike - which it is, and it's also perfect for stuff like the Ladybower/Howden/Derwent loop. Nothing rougher than that though.

[2gins]

Following with interest, but if we can side step for a moment can someone explain what this geometry is all about as it pertains to bikes, and how it effects handling. I've ridden bikes since I was a kid, I'm not 'a cyclist' just 'a bloke who also rides a bike', I've never really thought about it tbh I just hop on and ride. I'm definitely not a roadie, I have a 6 or so yr old hardtail and up til last month it was all the bike I ever needed. What's changed, committing a 30 mile round trip on mix of road, shared paths, potholed roads, muddy field, canal path.

[HughG]

I was curious about geometry too before I got my "gravel" bike. I knew that I would mainly use it from commuting and as a winter road bike so wanted something with Endurance Road Geometry.

I drew my existing bikes based on my own measurements, and the contenders from published geometry.



The Domane is my good road bike, and is very comfy so was my main reference.
The BTwin was my old commuter, and always felt long but it was ok for up to about 50km. For reference this had a Planet X fork on it different from the standard BTwin geo.
The 6700 is my old hardtail for comparison.

I'm fairly flexible and have run very low bars in the past so for me the consideration was mainly wheelbase, and overall size.

[SoliD]

joema said:

I brought one last year and rode it once figuring it would make the road bits in between bridleways on the south downs better.

But the bridleways were too bumpy and I hate using drops so I struggled to brake. All the weight is therefore over the front which is retarded.

It wasn't great on road either. A HT 29" bike with some fast rolling tyres isn't much slower and is far better off road.

Sold it. If I want door to door rides I just stick off road and chuck my MTB in the car for off road.

I guess if you have miles of gravel tracks then it would be good.

SDW is one of the worst places to ride them unfortunately. I take my CX bike up there regularly as it is local but anything but the flat stuff is hard work, the ruts and rocks are too numerous to enjoy. In the UK it seems like we don't have the amazing gravel fireroads these bikes are intended for.

I got one of the earlier "Gravel/Adventure" bikes - a Pinnacle Arkose 4 in 2015 as a first bike to ride to work and go and race CX, being just over £1000 and with full 105 hydraulic it was a great buy and has served me well, but everytime I took it anywhere near an offroad track I'd just get a puncture as the weight was too much over the front wheel so anytime you tried to descend anything you'd be loading it up as you can't relax on them and hit the bumps like an MTB. Still been a great workhorse though.

[2gins]

HughG said:

I was curious about geometry too before I got my "gravel" bike. I knew that I would mainly use it from commuting and as a winter road bike so wanted something with Endurance Road Geometry.

I drew my existing bikes based on my own measurements, and the contenders from published geometry.



The Domane is my good road bike, and is very comfy so was my main reference.
The BTwin was my old commuter, and always felt long but it was ok for up to about 50km. For reference this had a Planet X fork on it different from the standard BTwin geo.
The 6700 is my old hardtail for comparison.

I'm fairly flexible and have run very low bars in the past so for me the consideration was mainly wheelbase, and overall size.

Thanks, so, how does this affect the handling? I get wheelbase will make turning easier (staggered crossings at DC junctions would be relevant on my routes) but what else are 'they' all on about in the reviews?

[FredClogs]

What happens when you think, feck it I'll take the road bike out might be the last time before spring and then do the route you've been doing on the gravel bike recently...