2x10 to 1x11 conversion

[Byronwww]

Recently switched drivetrains on my hard tail and I'm finding that when I'm on the largest cog there seems to be quite a bit of friction from the chain line being at an angle. I'm guessing this will wear the teeth on that cog much quicker and it's probably not as efficient as it could be.

Is there any way to improve this or is it just because the bike was made for a 2x setup (it's a 2013 Scott Scale 710)

[OutInTheShed]

There's a whole world of complexity about 'chain line'.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

Basically, you can probably change your bottom bracket or chain rings/crank to move the chain ring across a bit.

[gazza285]

Sorry to be pedantic, but it is a sprocket, not a cog.

Did you use the same cranks?

[Byronwww]

Sprocket! I had to look up the difference so learnt something new at least

Same cranks but the double chain ring was a 38/24T and now it's a 36T.

The largest sprocket on the 11 speed is way bigger than it was on the 10 speed, it's only really that one that feels a bit off though.

[Super Sonic]

Can you put the 36 on the inside? Where the 24 was?

[old'uns]

I did similar to my 2x Felt last year, but with a 1x 10 from the Whyte as I upgraded from the Suntour OEM.
To get a better chain line I ended up with no spacer on the BB drive side, not ideal but it worked okay.
Are you using off-set narrow-wide crank ring?

[Byronwww]

Maybe pictures would help - excuse the mud but it's the winter bike!




[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/GXq8wpD2[/url]

[witko999]

If that's a 2x crank, then the ideal centreline for your 1x chainring would be in between where your original 2 chainrings were. So it might be that you need spacers to space the chainring inwards a little.

I did a conversion on my bike from 3x10 to 1x11, and mounted the chainring where the middle ring used to be, as that's already on the correct centreline. However, there's still a noticeable bit of drag in 1st gear, as you're asking a lot from the chain in that gear, and I guess you only have a 'straight' chain in the middle of the cassette. In any case, I can't space my chainring inwards really, because my chain runs quite close to the tyre. It looks like you have more room.

[Byronwww]

No space to go inwards on the cranks, I'm right up against the chain stay here:



Was thinking why my full sus is fine with 12 speed and an even larger sprocket, I'm guessing it's the boost standard making the axles wider and additional length in the chainstay?

Might have to just live with it as it's fine in one gear down and wouldn't be putting much power down in the biggest sprocket, it's just an annoying grating vibration feel and I think those big sprockets are lighter metal so might wear the teeth a lot quicker.

[Kawasicki]

That chain line is pretty bad. Imaging spending a lof of time climbing steep inclines....

[Byronwww]

This is my winter bike so it doesn't see that many big long inclines.

2x10 setup it had was perfect but I was getting sick of the chain dropping on the front when it was all muddy and 1x seemed like less hassle once the old rings and casette wire out.

Maybe I should've just gone with stuck with 1x10 and lost a bit of range either way.

[Byronwww]

Actually looks like Shimano do 11 speeds with a smaller large sprocket, I'll wear this one out and change to one of those which I'm guessing should help a lot. This bike is more used for gravel type riding nowadays so I can go with similar gear ratio to those.

[OutInTheShed]

Byronwww said:

Maybe pictures would help - excuse the mud but it's the winter bike!



l]

That looks like the chain might be quite tight, either it might be too short, and/or you need a longer derailleur cage to give the range?

[Rob_125]

OutInTheShed said:

Byronwww said:

Maybe pictures would help - excuse the mud but it's the winter bike!



l]

That looks like the chain might be quite tight, either it might be too short, and/or you need a longer derailleur cage to give the range?

Was going to reply with the same comment. Needs atleast one more link in there

[irc]

Is the friction due to the chain being too short?

Anyway. If the other cogs work ok just adjust the limit screw to stop shifting onto the biggest cog and you have a 1*10.

Means the chain length will be ok too

Edited by irc on Thursday 16th March 23:03

[Fundoreen]

Did something like this a year or so ago with an old bike. Even though it was a narrow wide front sprocket the chain still came off randomly. Alignment should have been fine as I was using the middle position on the previous 3 by crank but new crank ring teeth were still getting mangled.
Also unless you have a dinner plate on the back you dont really have low enough gears.
Im amazed at some of the rubbish people try to sell with a 1 by conversion with no gear range and call it an mtb.
In the end I reasoned the front mech is a valuable chain containment device and just went with a 2 by on the crank losing the big ring.
Once setup its a simply uncomplicated thing that changes between 2 positions with one press.
Lots of useful gears as well.
I would stick with the 2 x10 if possible but your setup may be more compatible than mine was.

[old'uns]

Chain 'shouldn't ' drop off with narrow-wide but they do, simple chain guide helps.
Rear derailleur ideally needs to be one with a clutch and the cage/chain length sufficient for the range



Not a great pic but chainline on 1x 10 46t. Straight chain line is straight ish when on centre of cassette

[Byronwww]

old'uns said:

Chain 'shouldn't ' drop off with narrow-wide but they do, simple chain guide helps.
Rear derailleur ideally needs to be one with a clutch and the cage/chain length sufficient for the range



Not a great pic but chainline on 1x 10 46t. Straight chain line is straight ish when on centre of cassette

Haven't had any chain drops since going to 1x, on a double when it gets all muddy would always drop the chain shifting though which got annoying trying having to fix in the cold and wet.

Think I've messed up when I changed the chain and gone too short, I'll add another link in once it stops raining for a bit and see if that fixes it.

[nickfrog]

Fundoreen said:

.
Im amazed at some of the rubbish people try to sell with a 1 by conversion with no gear range and call it an mtb.

Although I haven't seen much in the way of rubbish, I feel that sometimes it's simpler to go all the way with a ground up 1x system for the full experience.

I built a cheap HT this winter with a NX group and swapped the mech/shifter for SLX. Total net cost £200.

The range is fantastic even with the 11t. It's ultimately comparable to a 3x10 but without the front mech, so it's all benefit really. When well set up friction is surprisingly low what with the narrow chain. The steel SRAM cassette lasts amazingly well too.

Front chainline is 52 and rear 49 so near ideal.

Edited by nickfrog on Monday 20th March 20:04

[old'uns]

I'm not sure just one will do it?



Yours looks to be under a lot of tension as it is.