My first drag project

[drcox99]

Thanks, I think I’ll be going to that event, haven’t sorted it yet, but I was wondering what do you actually need to get into sportsman et because I assume you need more than you do for rwyb

[Turn7]

drcox99 said:

Thanks, I think I’ll be going to that event, haven’t sorted it yet, but I was wondering what do you actually need to get into sportsman et because I assume you need more than you do for rwyb

All here...

http://www.eurodragster.com/sprc/forms.html

http://www.eurodragster.com/sprc/gettingstarted.ht...

[Weslake-Monza]

The Ford Essex V6 is iron block and iron head and iron main gearbox case so it's heavy. You could fit a Rover V8 in it which even at standard size would be bigger than the Essex and has scope to get larger. It would also weigh less than the Essex.

[gusm2]

Weslake-Monza said:

The Ford Essex V6 is iron block and iron head and iron main gearbox case so it's heavy. You could fit a Rover V8 in it which even at standard size would be bigger than the Essex and has scope to get larger. It would also weigh less than the Essex.

And more tuning parts too 👍

[drcox99]

Yeah I was looking at getting a rover engine but compared to something like a Chevy small block they’re harder to get high hp numbers from, ideally I’d like to put a big block in it cuz it’s like future proofing, as I progress I’m able to put more stuff on it and get going on 1000 hp

[gusm2]

Lots of high horse Rover V8's, Google Steve Green's Mk1 Cortina or more current Steve Wells outlaw anglia pick up, alloy block mucho lightness compared to SB or BB yank motor.
1000hp seriously?

[Flying Phil]

I would (naturally) have suggested Rover V8 and with nitrous, they can make a useful H.P. .....but to get high H.P. from them gets much more expensive than a less stressed small block or big block. I think a good s/h alloy block would be the most cost/Lb effective way forward. But try in Sportsman ET and RWYB with what you have, before committing to a big build. I suspect there are a good many drag racing project cars that are "nearly finished" but have run out of money/enthusiasm/expertise.

[drcox99]

Yeah I mean I’m not looking to swap the engine any time soon it’ll be atleast a year or two probably more, assuming I can make the current engine run which might be a task in itself.

[norris_83]

I would definitely go with a V8. You can find a lot of the GM 5.3 Gen4 motors for dirt cheap and woth supporting mods make a good 400whp (500bhp).

They love boost too and can handle up to 12-14pounds on a conservative tune.

[Tet]

gusm2 said:

I do know the weak point is the fibre timing gears

That's true, but steel replacement gears are readily available. I did the swap on my road car. It's a bit noisier than the fibre tipped gear, but I have more confidence in it.

As for what you should do? My advice, and I can't stress this in strong enough terms, is to get a running car and get it onto the track. I'd ignore plans for Super Street or Pro ET for now. Just get the car out and able to get from A to B. In any form. Run it in Sportsman ET if you want to race (and I highly recommend you do). Once you've done so, you'll have a much better idea of what's holding you back and what you need to change next to get to where you want to be.

In terms of power, a small block Chevy will give you a pretty reasonable bang for your buck, although the best option on that front may be shifting towards smaller Jap motors with a turbo these days. Yes, I'd suggest getting a roll cage. Technically you don't need one until you get to 10 seconds, but I got one at 12 seconds - if you have a top end incident in a 12 second car, you're going to have a really unpleasant day without a cage. You may decide to take that risk. I didn't.

[Kinkell]

Personally I wouldn't spend time or money on the Essex V6 as it's bang for bucks ratio is low.
There are plenty modern motors out there that are easier to obtain power from unless you wish to keep it original.