EP3 - does it still cut it in 2017/18?
Discussion
egor110 said:
aka_kerrly said:
greenarrow said:
features a buying guide on the FN2, but I think they're still too expensive for my "second hand, weekend toy" budget.......
The other point is that I find these old type Rs more my cup of tea than stuff like the new all singing and dancing turbo Civic Type R. The new car is just far too big IMO to be really usable down narrow country lanes,
Completely agree, I also considered spending nearly double what my ep3 cost and going FN2 (im also an Modern Classic mag fan) but I was underwhelmed by it as Honda have gone too far down the insulation/creature comforts route which isn't what a Type R is all about. The other point is that I find these old type Rs more my cup of tea than stuff like the new all singing and dancing turbo Civic Type R. The new car is just far too big IMO to be really usable down narrow country lanes,
I dare say at this point I am VERY happy with my new toy!
Now it's time to re learn driving , you haven't got torque so rev the nuts off it
Trouble is people with turbos or big engines with low down grunt get into these r types , fast clios and think there slow because they drive them the same as there turbo cars , there not slow you just have to actually use the whole rev range .
greenarrow said:
This is very true. Every time I get back into my MX-5 after driving my diesel Insignia, it feels somewhat lacking in torque...but in actual fact if I take it up to the 7400 RPM rev limit in 2nd and 3rd its a fair bit quicker. I can only imagine the difference is even more pronounced in a Civic which tops out at around 8,000 RPM!
So very true.The Integra doesn’t hit its limiter until 9000 on the rev counter (actually 8400/8500 in reality depending on where you read up)
To get the best benefit it needs revving all the way.
Fortunately Honda VTECs are built for it.
People say the ITRs are busy at motorway speeds & need an extra gear but in reality the naughty side of 140 is doable in 5th.
They sit at a higher cruise RPM as they have a larger rev range than your average chariot.
The EP3 is similar in this respect. Just allows you to keep it on the boil more easily!!
ks, but for the resident nerds - who would be ok for me to PM them for some advice re sale & value of a problematic EP3?As long as you use the entire rev range I would say the k20 still cuts it vs modern hatches, not necessarily in a straight line, but as an overall package they're a very well put together drivers car. If you aren't used to driving something high revving NA i can see why they may seem underwhelming at first, but once you start shifting at higher rpms and keep it in vtec through the gears you'll see north of 60 in second gear and well past 140 in fifth as has been mentioned.
My dc5 can still mix it pretty well with some of the newer stuff in real world driving, and i don't think i've really pushed in terms of what the car would be capable of.
itr/ctr k20 are plenty quick enough to have a lot of fun in, whilst having that badge pedigree and pretty enviable reliability for an engine you can rag the nuts off.
Honestly would only swap mine for an evo or FD2.
My dc5 can still mix it pretty well with some of the newer stuff in real world driving, and i don't think i've really pushed in terms of what the car would be capable of.
itr/ctr k20 are plenty quick enough to have a lot of fun in, whilst having that badge pedigree and pretty enviable reliability for an engine you can rag the nuts off.
Honestly would only swap mine for an evo or FD2.
...I agree..... I always think the 30-70 through the gears figure is one of the best indictors of real world performance and according to Autocar, the EP3 did that in 6.0 secs. This compares to the brand new Hyundai i30N which was tested by Autocar at 5.6 secs., or the 245 PS Octavia VRS, which took 5.8secs ... so actually not as far off the pace after 17 years as you might think (I appreciate the Civic Type R and Golf R are in a different league)
...obviously the turbo torque of these new hot hatches mean that any EP3 caught in the wrong gear, would be left gasping a bit, but I think overall, the EP3 is a great half way house between the older, lighter rawer n/a hot hatches and the new heavier, very quick ones.....and they are heavy, the new Hyundai is weighing in at 1478KG!!
Just need to find a cheap EP3 now that has some life left in it....
greenarrow said:
...I agree..... I always think the 30-70 through the gears figure is one of the best indictors of real world performance and according to Autocar, the EP3 did that in 6.0 secs. This compares to the brand new Hyundai i30N which was tested by Autocar at 5.6 secs., or the 245 PS Octavia VRS, which took 5.8secs ... so actually not as far off the pace after 17 years as you might think (I appreciate the Civic Type R and Golf R are in a different league)
...obviously the turbo torque of these new hot hatches mean that any EP3 caught in the wrong gear, would be left gasping a bit, but I think overall, the EP3 is a great half way house between the older, lighter rawer n/a hot hatches and the new heavier, very quick ones.....and they are heavy, the new Hyundai is weighing in at 1478KG!!
Just need to find a cheap EP3 now that has some life left in it....
Surely a cheap ep3 will have plenty of life left in it ?...obviously the turbo torque of these new hot hatches mean that any EP3 caught in the wrong gear, would be left gasping a bit, but I think overall, the EP3 is a great half way house between the older, lighter rawer n/a hot hatches and the new heavier, very quick ones.....and they are heavy, the new Hyundai is weighing in at 1478KG!!
Just need to find a cheap EP3 now that has some life left in it....
Yes suspension might need refreshing and the clutch may be a bit tired but all those are going to wear with age , not due to a fault with the car.
egor110 said:
Surely a cheap ep3 will have plenty of life left in it ?
Yes suspension might need refreshing and the clutch may be a bit tired but all those are going to wear with age , not due to a fault with the car.
Mine is on 110k and i guess I was quite lucky to find one that has had timing chain, clutch, discs/pads/callipers all replaced in the last 20k. I've seen a fair few on >150k, I know of one on 170k that is still going strong but I feel they are all at a stage where they would benefit from some TLC. Yes suspension might need refreshing and the clutch may be a bit tired but all those are going to wear with age , not due to a fault with the car.
In order to give mine a quick refresh I've got eibach pro springs, meyle hd drop links, adjustable upper arms, rear tie bar, ball joints and a JDM rear anti roll bar for on route. Hopefully that lot + some AD08s when the weather improves a bit and bingo
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