Is this Honda CRV worth a punt? (High Miles)

Is this Honda CRV worth a punt? (High Miles)

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Scrubs

Original Poster:

943 posts

204 months

Tuesday 23rd October 2018
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Looking for a winter run about. This Honda CRV has came up near me for sale.

It's a 2008 and just been MOT'd with no advisories (passed last year with no advisories as well). Only problem is the mileage,which is at 187,000 now.

Seems a decent price for a new shape at £2.5k. Or would I be better steering clear? Anyone got experience of that 2.2d engine?


Any tips if I go have a look at it? Cheers for any advice!


https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...


LordHaveMurci

12,043 posts

169 months

Tuesday 23rd October 2018
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Service history?

krismccloy

256 posts

149 months

Wednesday 24th October 2018
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My father bought a 2.2 CDTI Civic with 175k on recently, had one before with 140k on. The engines and gearboxes are strong. As with most diesels of the era, watch for clutch judders or slips. A bit of whining is common from alternator pulley or other auxiliary pulleys/bearings.

His civic needed new dampers all round, the car was very soft.



Edited by krismccloy on Wednesday 24th October 10:08

ninjag

1,827 posts

119 months

Friday 26th October 2018
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Scrubs said:
Looking for a winter run about. This Honda CRV has came up near me for sale.

It's a 2008 and just been MOT'd with no advisories (passed last year with no advisories as well). Only problem is the mileage,which is at 187,000 now.

Seems a decent price for a new shape at £2.5k. Or would I be better steering clear? Anyone got experience of that 2.2d engine?


Any tips if I go have a look at it? Cheers for any advice!


https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...
I saw that same car about two months ago when looking for one for a friend. I recognise the bridge. It's been on sale a while - I'd be wondering why, although the MOT history looks good. The tow bar would make me have a very close look at the clutch and rear diff.

But to be honest I'd be prepared to travel up to 200 miles (which is only Manchester) because cars south of the border are much cheaper and you'll be able to get a top spec EX for similar money which gives you very comfortable leather seats (the kind you sit in rather than on like modern cars), Xeon lights etc. Here's one which looks nice: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...

Does it have to be a CRV? You can get the Honda Accord EX 2.2 with only 100k miles for £2,695 and these are built in Japan and not Swindon. There's one in Kelty only 37 miles away from you.

But if only interested in the CRV then here's a few things (I had a 3rd Gen EX):

1. Bushes - check for cracked bushes around the suspension and anti roll bars. You can buy bushes cheap enough but some of them can be a pain to fit. 2. Sometimes better replacing the whole arm.
3. Clutch judder - they can suffer judder and also squeal (clutch release bearing), especially when on a slope. This is why I swapped to automatic.
4. Rear Diff - the fluid is often overlooked, do a hard lock at low speeds and listen out for noise from under the car. A fluid change can usually fix it but not always
5. Rattles - it's a Honda. They love push clips instead of screws. It will rattle in the cabin so be prepared to buy some foam pads and go hunting. Or turn the radio up.
6. Wing mirrors - they are huge targets for passing traffic to bash. Check they both work.
7. Turbo - very unlikely but if it's been doing lots of short runs and some lazy git has never bothered to change the oil then you can get problems with the shaft and coking up. A good test is to accelerate hard then suddenly take your foot off the gas. If you hear a strange fluttering type noise from the engine bay straight after taking your foot off the gas then you've got a problem. Turbo will need to be removed and sent off for a refurb. About 3-4 hours to remove.
8. Service History - if it's main deal (especially in Scotland) the assume nothing has been done. At the very most the oil may have been changed but it will be with 5W30 instead of the required 0W30. The filters will probably all be original.


Some good news? Even if something goes wrong a Honda will almost always still get you home, even if it's in limp-home mode. There's plenty of aftermarket parts plus you can use Lings Honda Parts to get full diagrams of all parts of the car with part numbers and prices. Also, the 2.2CDTi is good for remapping. You get a good increase of power and torque but more importantly the power band can changed so you don't get that dreaded power drop off at higher revs. I got mine done and it made the car a lot more fun to drive. Moorfield Motor Services in Kilmarnock have a 4WD rolling road and do ECU remapping so you get to see what you current stats are and then your gains. You get printouts afterwards.

Honda's love fresh oil. If you buy a CRV the first thing I'd do is a service. Honda or Mobil 1 0W30 oil, oil filter and air filter - both genuine. Aftermarket carbon activated pollen filter. Plus change the rear diff oil and the transmission fluid. Both are very easy jobs to do. Only use genuine Honda fluids for this - very important. I'd probably also get the brake fluid changed out, easier to get a garage to do it as they'll have the good brake bleeding kit.

But I would seriously consider only going for the EX. The seats alone make it worthwhile!

Edited by ninjag on Friday 26th October 16:38

Scrubs

Original Poster:

943 posts

204 months

Friday 26th October 2018
quotequote all
Many thanks for the replies, especially ninjag above, a lot of good info there mate, appreciated.

Pretty much got my heart set on a CRV but not in any major rush so will keep up the search for just now and have decided against the car in the OP.