Suggested mods for track use

[nick996tt]

hi, I've recently bought a Clio200. It'll be used as a daily run-around. But 2 or 3 times a year i will track it, starting with the Ring in Sept (with maybe a warm-up at Donington this summer). Years ago i had a 968CS as a track car, but with the clio for example i specifically didn't want the cup chassis because it's 99.9% a daily.

So with that in mind, are there any simple mods i should bother with that won't compromise daily comfort but will make a small but worthwhile difference on track. I was thinking of polybushes, Endless or Pagid RS29 for front pads, braided lines etc and that was about it.

Cheers
Nick

[Lopey]

Is this your first track day car, or have you had previous experience?

[Samjeev]

Brake Pads and Lines I would say firstly
Followed by Decent tyres.
Next would be Coilovers howeve this will affect the daily driving aspect of it but it will also combat body roll.

[loggyboy]

How many miles on the car?
If a reasonable amount I would start with a wishbone/tie rod end etc refresh. Its renowned on the Mk2 1*2 clios for making a huge difference in feel. Sadly on the mk3 clio its probably no where near as cheap (revoknuckle style hubs mean multiple ball joints).
After that, or if they all feel fine, then a refresh with decent brake fluid and ensure all discs/pads are good. Brembos as standard on the mk3s mean no upgrades should be needed, accept maybe the lines as mentioned above.
2nd set of wheels makes sense, as easy to fit in the boot and gives opportunity to save road tyres and make use of sticky track tyres, without killing them on road.
Coilovers or at least springs and adjustable shocks make a big difference.

The principles of above is what I have done to my 182 which is a daily, and it services me very well on track 3 or 4 times a year.
I also went for harnesses, which is often (unfairly IMO) frowned on with OE seats and without a harness bar, but makes a world of difference in keeping you in the seat, meaning you can use the wheel as a feedback tool rather than using it to keep you in the seat.

Edited by loggyboy on Thursday 25th May 10:45

Edited by loggyboy on Thursday 25th May 10:46

[E-bmw]

loggyboy said:

I also went for harnesses, which is often (unfairly IMO) frowned on with OE seats and without a harness bar

It isn't particularly harnesses without a harness bar but harnesses without a cage as the harness means that if you roll the car, you can't get your head out of the way of the collapsing roof.

[C70R]

E-bmw said:

loggyboy said:

I also went for harnesses, which is often (unfairly IMO) frowned on with OE seats and without a harness bar

It isn't particularly harnesses without a harness bar but harnesses without a cage as the harness means that if you roll the car, you can't get your head out of the way of the collapsing roof.

It's also because (in the event of an accident) harnesses use the strength of the seat as an 'anchor point' where they pass through over the shoulders. OE seats don't have the same level of rigidity here (think about the thin steel supports), and are likely to deform or fail - meaning that your harness is about as much use as tits on a fish at this point.

[cbmotorsport]

Tyres will make the most noticeable difference immediately. You could run some road legal sticky rubber on your current wheels, or get a second set of cheap wheels and put them on that. That will give you a set of road tyres for the wet. Nothing worse than squealing round a circuit on road tyres, understeering and feeling unsafe.

Brake pads next.

[E-bmw]

Personally if it is just 2/3 days a year I would just fill/flush/bleed the brakes with ATE type 200 fluid or similar, get some DS2500 pads, top quality new discs & braided lines and see how you get on.

Potentially add a remap/CAI & that would probably be enough.

[nick996tt]

E-bmw said:

Personally if it is just 2/3 days a year I would just fill/flush/bleed the brakes with ATE type 200 fluid or similar, get some DS2500 pads, top quality new discs & braided lines and see how you get on.

Potentially add a remap/CAI & that would probably be enough.

Thanks for all the responses. I think the above is what i'm likely to do ie brake fluid, braided lines and the DS2500 seem to get v good reviews. Clio is 2010 with 53k miles. Early days but mechanically it seems spot on. Having had a gtr, couple of 911 turbos, four 911's , m4, rs3, rs4, and quite a lot of other quick cars over the last 30yrs (and some really crap ones!) , the clio's grip and handling are nonetheless really satisfying. Not too bothered aobut sticky tyres, but brake fade is something i really want to avoid. Only other temptation which isn't really performance related is a better sounding exhaust (Scorpion sounds good on youtube).

Cheers
Nick

[anonymous-user]

If you've not already, get yourself onto ClioSport and contact RTR parts for good prices on brakes.

Absolutely no need for coilovers IMO unless you're getting really serious, a decent set of springs and the cup shocks should be fine if the time comes that you want a bit more body control.

They're very good out of the box so if I were you I'd just do the pads and fluid and then see where your own preferences take you.

[cbmotorsport]

nick996tt said:

Thanks for all the responses. I think the above is what i'm likely to do ie brake fluid, braided lines and the DS2500 seem to get v good reviews. Clio is 2010 with 53k miles. Early days but mechanically it seems spot on. Having had a gtr, couple of 911 turbos, four 911's , m4, rs3, rs4, and quite a lot of other quick cars over the last 30yrs (and some really crap ones!) , the clio's grip and handling are nonetheless really satisfying. Not too bothered aobut sticky tyres, but brake fade is something i really want to avoid. Only other temptation which isn't really performance related is a better sounding exhaust (Scorpion sounds good on youtube).

Cheers
Nick

You will kill a set of road tyres at the 'ring if you do a full day. Just have a contingency to get you home.

[HDi-Julian]

The chap who touched on harnesses, I'm still very much at full n00b status but I agree totally and found a massive difference from a seat and a harness, staying in one place just made me feel way more stable and in control which lets you concentrate on the driving rather than not 'falling off' haha.

The other thing I've learnt is that brakes you can rely on (even lines, pads and good fluid as said above) and a good alignment / geometry will make a much bigger improvement to your day and how you enjoy it initially than more power will. Also echoing other people, getting things back to how they should be or better, bushes and the like, make a huge difference even on the road. If the car isn't trying to fall over itself from wishbones flopping in and out of spec things are much more precise and repeatable on the day.

Edited by HDi-Julian on Friday 26th May 10:41

[handpaper]

If you can still get one, a CG-Lock makes a huge difference to how a standard inertia reel seatbelt holds you in the seat.

[nick996tt]

cbmotorsport said:

You will kill a set of road tyres at the 'ring if you do a full day. Just have a contingency to get you home.

Yes - v good point.

[CedricN]

For the ring youre probably fine, its the most easy track for the tyres Ive been on. For smaller tracks such as the ones we have here in sweden regular road tyres gets roasted very fast. For as many as 3-4 times per year I would go for a seperate set of wheels with semi slicks, the you have tyres which dont fade and melt away, and gives way better respons.

[Wh00sher]

Don`t forget driver training. ! You will benefit more from than on your first trackdays than anything else.

Poeple often throw money at making the car better but don`t think they need instruction.

[E-bmw]

nick996tt said:

cbmotorsport said:

You will kill a set of road tyres at the 'ring if you do a full day. Just have a contingency to get you home.

Yes - v good point.

You won't kill a set of tyres at the 'Ring at all, it is very easy on tyres, far more so than a day at a normal UK track. It is long but there are many straights and areas where everything has the time to cool down.

I have been there many times and never even come close to ruining a set of tyres even after 36 laps in a weekend.

[Onetrackmind]

Hi Nick. Interesting reading this as I assume you have a 996 Turbo going by your forum name. I also have one and although I'm tempted to track it I know it'll end in financial ruin. Hence why I'm also considering a Clio 200. As with you, I'd use it as a daily but I'd also need to get my two kids in the back. I'd then use it on track half a dozen times a year as a cheaper alternative to the 996.

Currently looking at practical cars that could be used on track. I've had a Subaru BRZ but the rear seats are just so small.

[QBee]

Most things covered by the time I got here....as per usual.

My only addition has sort of been mentioned. Go there on your road rubber, but take a second set of wheels in the back of the car with something like Federal 595 RSRs or Yokohama AD08R - inexpensive road legal track tyres - and the means to swap wheels. Take advice from other Clio owners as to what of the inexpensive choices works well on a Clio.

That way you will be able to have the right tyres for the conditions, whatever they are, and still have some tyres for the drive home. I assume that stuff (wheels, tools) taken out of the car and stacked in the pits area is as safe in Germany as it is here in the UK - perhaps Wh00sher can advise?

[fridaypassion]

E-bmw said:

Personally if it is just 2/3 days a year I would just fill/flush/bleed the brakes with ATE type 200 fluid or similar, get some DS2500 pads, top quality new discs & braided lines and see how you get on.

Potentially add a remap/CAI & that would probably be enough.

This. People tend to get carried away modding for track use and really these basics should suffice. We use RF1000 Fluid in our RS Megane along with Mintex 1155 pads and Nankang NSR2 Tyres. No real need for braided lines. The R26 we have is similar to the Clio in that its has awful anvil like suspension which is more track than road biased so no need for coilovers unless you are substantially upping power or getting very serious with the trackdays. The Meganes have an interesting issue that you can loose your clutch by cooking the brake fluid. I'm not sure thats the same with the Clio but its well worth sorting the braking first. Tyres, then other stuff.