Ex works Vauxhall Astra BTCC track car
Discussion
Firstly a big thanks to all who have offered me their time and input - what a great community this is!!!
Spent most of yesterday getting to know the car, cleaning it and compiling quite a large shopping list!
The Hawker SBS 30 battery was completely dead (expected), no voltage what so ever so got another on order. In the meantime hooked up a car battery and everything powers up.
Pumped all the old fuel out via the HP pump - added some fresh 99 octane just to flush. Unsure about what fuel it should really run on guess 102?
Hand cranked engine - nice and easy.
Cold compression test on engine via starter with all plugs removed - no compression on cyl#2....yikes!!! Removed cam cover and found exhaust valves not fully closing. Scope down bore and no sign of impact with piston. Fully opened the valves and squirted some WD down stem and now its free and making good compression - happy days :-)
Need to get some fresh oil before firing the engine, Mickey has suggested 10W50 racing so I'll try that unless anybody knows better?
Looking at the 888 console there's a switch position for 'prime'. You have to hold this (unlike the ignition position that fixes in the toggle position) any thoughts on how long to prime it?
I'll post up some new photos after breakfast....
Spent most of yesterday getting to know the car, cleaning it and compiling quite a large shopping list!
The Hawker SBS 30 battery was completely dead (expected), no voltage what so ever so got another on order. In the meantime hooked up a car battery and everything powers up.
Pumped all the old fuel out via the HP pump - added some fresh 99 octane just to flush. Unsure about what fuel it should really run on guess 102?
Hand cranked engine - nice and easy.
Cold compression test on engine via starter with all plugs removed - no compression on cyl#2....yikes!!! Removed cam cover and found exhaust valves not fully closing. Scope down bore and no sign of impact with piston. Fully opened the valves and squirted some WD down stem and now its free and making good compression - happy days :-)
Need to get some fresh oil before firing the engine, Mickey has suggested 10W50 racing so I'll try that unless anybody knows better?
Looking at the 888 console there's a switch position for 'prime'. You have to hold this (unlike the ignition position that fixes in the toggle position) any thoughts on how long to prime it?
I'll post up some new photos after breakfast....
VX BlackRat said:
Firstly a big thanks to all who have offered me their time and input - what a great community this is!!!
Spent most of yesterday getting to know the car, cleaning it and compiling quite a large shopping list!
The Hawker SBS 30 battery was completely dead (expected), no voltage what so ever so got another on order. In the meantime hooked up a car battery and everything powers up.
Pumped all the old fuel out via the HP pump - added some fresh 99 octane just to flush. Unsure about what fuel it should really run on guess 102?
Hand cranked engine - nice and easy.
Cold compression test on engine via starter with all plugs removed - no compression on cyl#2....yikes!!! Removed cam cover and found exhaust valves not fully closing. Scope down bore and no sign of impact with piston. Fully opened the valves and squirted some WD down stem and now its free and making good compression - happy days :-)
Need to get some fresh oil before firing the engine, Mickey has suggested 10W50 racing so I'll try that unless anybody knows better?
Looking at the 888 console there's a switch position for 'prime'. You have to hold this (unlike the ignition position that fixes in the toggle position) any thoughts on how long to prime it?
I'll post up some new photos after breakfast....
I'd try and get some more advice on the engine spec prior to starting it. It may require a water pre-heater prior to starting? Is there any evidence of unions to plug in a water heater? Spent most of yesterday getting to know the car, cleaning it and compiling quite a large shopping list!
The Hawker SBS 30 battery was completely dead (expected), no voltage what so ever so got another on order. In the meantime hooked up a car battery and everything powers up.
Pumped all the old fuel out via the HP pump - added some fresh 99 octane just to flush. Unsure about what fuel it should really run on guess 102?
Hand cranked engine - nice and easy.
Cold compression test on engine via starter with all plugs removed - no compression on cyl#2....yikes!!! Removed cam cover and found exhaust valves not fully closing. Scope down bore and no sign of impact with piston. Fully opened the valves and squirted some WD down stem and now its free and making good compression - happy days :-)
Need to get some fresh oil before firing the engine, Mickey has suggested 10W50 racing so I'll try that unless anybody knows better?
Looking at the 888 console there's a switch position for 'prime'. You have to hold this (unlike the ignition position that fixes in the toggle position) any thoughts on how long to prime it?
I'll post up some new photos after breakfast....
Is it dry sumped? Is there evidence of any pads (heaters) stuck to the side of the dry sump tank?
What ECU is fitted? Do you have access to the maps? Worth speaking to who ever did the mapping to see what octane fuel the ignition is mapped for. I have for it to be mapped for 102 and you run on 99....
It's also worth reiterating that both the water AND oil need to be warmed up prior to gunning this type of engine. Depending upon what gearbox is fitted (?) you may want to also get the car on stands and get the gearbox up to temp. We used to do this with the Sadev sequential boxes back in the day - removed the wheels as this take a lot of stress out of everything.
You could also consider a slave battery for starting to allow you to run a small on-car battery.
Regarding priming, I would just switch on the fuel pump/s (there may be two, in case one fails) and let it/them prime until you can hear it/them stop. This suggests the fuel is up to the regulated pressure.
fergus said:
I'd try and get some more advice on the engine spec prior to starting it. It may require a water pre-heater prior to starting? Is there any evidence of unions to plug in a water heater?
Is it dry sumped? Is there evidence of any pads (heaters) stuck to the side of the dry sump tank?
What ECU is fitted? Do you have access to the maps? Worth speaking to who ever did the mapping to see what octane fuel the ignition is mapped for. I have for it to be mapped for 102 and you run on 99....
It's also worth reiterating that both the water AND oil need to be warmed up prior to gunning this type of engine. Depending upon what gearbox is fitted (?) you may want to also get the car on stands and get the gearbox up to temp. We used to do this with the Sadev sequential boxes back in the day - removed the wheels as this take a lot of stress out of everything.
You could also consider a slave battery for starting to allow you to run a small on-car battery.
Regarding priming, I would just switch on the fuel pump/s (there may be two, in case one fails) and let it/them prime until you can hear it/them stop. This suggests the fuel is up to the regulated pressure.
No pre-heat connectors on either coolant or oil and it's wet sumped - all looking promising so far.Is it dry sumped? Is there evidence of any pads (heaters) stuck to the side of the dry sump tank?
What ECU is fitted? Do you have access to the maps? Worth speaking to who ever did the mapping to see what octane fuel the ignition is mapped for. I have for it to be mapped for 102 and you run on 99....
It's also worth reiterating that both the water AND oil need to be warmed up prior to gunning this type of engine. Depending upon what gearbox is fitted (?) you may want to also get the car on stands and get the gearbox up to temp. We used to do this with the Sadev sequential boxes back in the day - removed the wheels as this take a lot of stress out of everything.
You could also consider a slave battery for starting to allow you to run a small on-car battery.
Regarding priming, I would just switch on the fuel pump/s (there may be two, in case one fails) and let it/them prime until you can hear it/them stop. This suggests the fuel is up to the regulated pressure.
Oil level is very high on the dipstick - I guess for storage? Will drop the old oil (looks very viscous & yellow) when I get some new.
I've found out that some of the Sodemo engineers now work for Swindon so will try them for info. too.
Need to get a cable for the ECU (EFI) hopefully 888 haven't password protected it.
Yep good advice regarding warm up and gunning it, will also probably need to check oil pressure too.
It's a Xtrac 406 sequential box fitted, looks like clutch is only used for pulling away - all gear changes are 'crashed'
Bought a male Anderson connector to hook up to the female 1 in the car to run an additional battery for cold crank & warm up.
Cheers!
VX BlackRat said:
No pre-heat connectors on either coolant or oil and it's wet sumped - all looking promising so far.
Oil level is very high on the dipstick - I guess for storage? Will drop the old oil (looks very viscous & yellow) when I get some new.
I've found out that some of the Sodemo engineers now work for Swindon so will try them for info. too.
Need to get a cable for the ECU (EFI) hopefully 888 haven't password protected it.
Yep good advice regarding warm up and gunning it, will also probably need to check oil pressure too.
It's a Xtrac 406 sequential box fitted, looks like clutch is only used for pulling away - all gear changes are 'crashed'
I'd suggest running the best fully synthetic gear oil you can (speak with Xtrac re grade) and change it after every other time out. The rebuild costs may make your eyes water. I'd also see when it was last refreshed. Oil level is very high on the dipstick - I guess for storage? Will drop the old oil (looks very viscous & yellow) when I get some new.
I've found out that some of the Sodemo engineers now work for Swindon so will try them for info. too.
Need to get a cable for the ECU (EFI) hopefully 888 haven't password protected it.
Yep good advice regarding warm up and gunning it, will also probably need to check oil pressure too.
It's a Xtrac 406 sequential box fitted, looks like clutch is only used for pulling away - all gear changes are 'crashed'
A lot of the components may well be lifed, which although you won't be racing it, you should be aware of. This is a very different beast from a car "converted for track use" and requires a LOAD more maintenance!!!
Try and find out what octane fuel the ignition map is for, or whether it was fitted with switchable maps for fuel grade (not the same as a potential "wet" map).
Good luck.
james_gt3rs said:
SonicShadow said:
Very cool.
I'm quite surprised at how 'normal' the engine looks. I'm sure it's anything but underneath though
+1 Surprised to learn it is related to Z22SE - certainly looks very much like the engine in my VX220, only double the power.I'm quite surprised at how 'normal' the engine looks. I'm sure it's anything but underneath though
Check out the regulations and it will tell you what parts had to remain stock, and what was free to be changed. Getting circa 300hp out of a normally aspirated 2 litre isn't cheap or easy.
The Nissan we ran was very well set up and easy to use .
It looked like a Primera but under the skin was very different from any road car .
Starting was straightforward if you are used to race cars .
Switch on let the pumps prime up hit the starter , runs like a bag of nails in a blender until it gets some heat in it .
The engine is a Nissan block but is further back in the chassis and much lower .The inlet /injection is at the front as opposed to the road car being against the bulkhead. The front grill and underside of the bonnet all forms part of the inlet for the injection .
Three on board settings for the ECU ,sprint ,distance and wet .
Brake bias control and anti roll.bar control .
Twin multi pot brake calipers on the front and single multi pots on the rear .
Adjustable everything on the suspension . Onboard air jacks and race fuel tank with quick fill churn type safety connection.
Very little happens below 5500 rpm and a 6 speed sequence box only needing the clutch to get off the line . Seperate reverse lever for the box .
Brakes feel like they have seized until they are warmed then you will.realise you haven't tightened the seat belts enough .The tyres need working and heat to be effective.
They are race machines and only work if you treat them properly,they only look like normal cars .
You get used to the acceleration pretty quickly , the brakes ,grip and corner speeds takes a lot longer to get used to .
You will need to replace the tyres as they will either have gone rock hard or will shed pretty quickly . Second hand will be adequate for the first while of running it . No point using new expensive rubber until you know how to cycle them to optimise the performance.
You might have problems with noise at track days , they tend to run to a lower limit than race days and touring cars were never quiet!
It looked like a Primera but under the skin was very different from any road car .
Starting was straightforward if you are used to race cars .
Switch on let the pumps prime up hit the starter , runs like a bag of nails in a blender until it gets some heat in it .
The engine is a Nissan block but is further back in the chassis and much lower .The inlet /injection is at the front as opposed to the road car being against the bulkhead. The front grill and underside of the bonnet all forms part of the inlet for the injection .
Three on board settings for the ECU ,sprint ,distance and wet .
Brake bias control and anti roll.bar control .
Twin multi pot brake calipers on the front and single multi pots on the rear .
Adjustable everything on the suspension . Onboard air jacks and race fuel tank with quick fill churn type safety connection.
Very little happens below 5500 rpm and a 6 speed sequence box only needing the clutch to get off the line . Seperate reverse lever for the box .
Brakes feel like they have seized until they are warmed then you will.realise you haven't tightened the seat belts enough .The tyres need working and heat to be effective.
They are race machines and only work if you treat them properly,they only look like normal cars .
You get used to the acceleration pretty quickly , the brakes ,grip and corner speeds takes a lot longer to get used to .
You will need to replace the tyres as they will either have gone rock hard or will shed pretty quickly . Second hand will be adequate for the first while of running it . No point using new expensive rubber until you know how to cycle them to optimise the performance.
You might have problems with noise at track days , they tend to run to a lower limit than race days and touring cars were never quiet!
Edited by grumpy52 on Monday 31st July 16:06
grumpy52 said:
The Nissan we ran was very well set up and easy to use .
It looked like a Primera but under the skin was very different from any road car .
Starting was straightforward if you are used to race cars .
Switch on let the pumps prime up hit the starter , runs like a bag of nails in a blender until it gets some heat in it .
The engine is a Nissan block but is further back in the chassis and much lower .The inlet /injection is at the front as opposed to the road car being against the bulkhead. The front grill and underside of the bonnet all forms part of the inlet for the injection .
Three on board settings for the ECU ,sprint ,distance and wet .
Brake bias control and anti roll.bar control .
Twin multi pot brake calipers on the front and single multi pots on the rear .
Adjustable everything on the suspension . Onboard air jacks and race fuel tank with quick fill churn type safety connection.
Very little happens below 5500 rpm and a 6 speed sequence box only needing the clutch to get off the line . Seperate reverse lever for the box .
Brakes feel like they have seized until they are warmed then you will.realise you haven't tightened the seat belts enough .The tyres need working and heat to be effective.
They are race machines and only work if you treat them properly,they only look like normal cars .
You get used to the acceleration pretty quickly , the brakes ,grip and corner speeds takes a lot longer to get used to .
You will need to replace the tyres as they will either have gone rock hard or will shed pretty quickly . Second hand will be adequate for the first while of running it . No point using new expensive rubber until you know how to cycle them to optimise the performance.
You might have problems with noise at track days , they tend to run to a lower limit than race days and touring cars were never quiet!
Great insight right there cheers! Reassuring and scary It looked like a Primera but under the skin was very different from any road car .
Starting was straightforward if you are used to race cars .
Switch on let the pumps prime up hit the starter , runs like a bag of nails in a blender until it gets some heat in it .
The engine is a Nissan block but is further back in the chassis and much lower .The inlet /injection is at the front as opposed to the road car being against the bulkhead. The front grill and underside of the bonnet all forms part of the inlet for the injection .
Three on board settings for the ECU ,sprint ,distance and wet .
Brake bias control and anti roll.bar control .
Twin multi pot brake calipers on the front and single multi pots on the rear .
Adjustable everything on the suspension . Onboard air jacks and race fuel tank with quick fill churn type safety connection.
Very little happens below 5500 rpm and a 6 speed sequence box only needing the clutch to get off the line . Seperate reverse lever for the box .
Brakes feel like they have seized until they are warmed then you will.realise you haven't tightened the seat belts enough .The tyres need working and heat to be effective.
They are race machines and only work if you treat them properly,they only look like normal cars .
You get used to the acceleration pretty quickly , the brakes ,grip and corner speeds takes a lot longer to get used to .
You will need to replace the tyres as they will either have gone rock hard or will shed pretty quickly . Second hand will be adequate for the first while of running it . No point using new expensive rubber until you know how to cycle them to optimise the performance.
You might have problems with noise at track days , they tend to run to a lower limit than race days and touring cars were never quiet!
Edited by grumpy52 on Monday 31st July 16:06
absolutely awesome thread. well done for actually having the balls to take this one on. top chap.
with respect to the ecu, there's loads of quality alternatives on the market now if the map is locked down. it would mean that it needs mapping from scratch although could mean a switch to more accessible fuel types if you were to go that route. Mad to think how things have moved on even since this was racing as it does seem fairly modern
with respect to the ecu, there's loads of quality alternatives on the market now if the map is locked down. it would mean that it needs mapping from scratch although could mean a switch to more accessible fuel types if you were to go that route. Mad to think how things have moved on even since this was racing as it does seem fairly modern
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