Destroying Brake Pads
Discussion
Zoobeef said:
Had a look at the data and for that lap I touched just over 109 before braking down to 43 in the wiggler. 99 down to 58 for bishops.
96 through Port froid hitting 106 before ushers down to 53mph.
Although on one of the other not quite as fast laps i was 1mph faster on each of those straights.
Interesting - your corner speed through Port Froit is much higher than mine (86) but about same for Bishops and I'm faster through the wiggler (47). 96 through Port froid hitting 106 before ushers down to 53mph.
Although on one of the other not quite as fast laps i was 1mph faster on each of those straights.
Also shows value in passenger laps and seeing what you can learn from one another
iguana said:
Yes to an appropriate pad, yes to improving cooling, no to fancy discs, waste of money, oe quality is fine.
What pad is a very long list & discussion & disagreements abound, few will disagree with say a pagid rs29 pad however, only real downside is price, a Ds1.11 does a similar job for less, but the squeal on road is a downside.
I use DSUno, do the same job and don't seem to squeal on mineWhat pad is a very long list & discussion & disagreements abound, few will disagree with say a pagid rs29 pad however, only real downside is price, a Ds1.11 does a similar job for less, but the squeal on road is a downside.
I've run OE-spec road pads on a lightweight track car for multiple days without issue. The key is to moderate your braking to suit your setup. You don't always need to be the king of the late brakers on a trackday to have fun.
If you've plumped for the biggest multi-pot calipers, carbon-based pads and floating discs that money can buy, you can get away with dropping an anchor on them at the last minute all day long.
If you're running something less fade-resistant, heat-resistant or powerful; brake earlier, brake progressively, and allow them to cool.
If you've plumped for the biggest multi-pot calipers, carbon-based pads and floating discs that money can buy, you can get away with dropping an anchor on them at the last minute all day long.
If you're running something less fade-resistant, heat-resistant or powerful; brake earlier, brake progressively, and allow them to cool.
Edited by C70R on Monday 20th April 17:14
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