Early F13 M6, pitfalls?
Discussion
olliete said:
I have a feeling that my MAF is on the way out as my idle is a bit lumpy - took it back to the dealer but they were unhelpful as no fault codes. Mine is also one of the ones that does like to drink oil; this doesn't seem unusual but it is somewhat annoying.
Mine is garaged but I don't have power in the garage - is the battery going to be a nightmare over winter?
Seriously, don’t swap your MAFs out. They’re almost certainly just dirty. You can whip them out with a single torx (you don’t even need to disconnect them) and give them a few squirts with a can of MAF cleaner and let them air dry. Repeat a couple of times. Mine is garaged but I don't have power in the garage - is the battery going to be a nightmare over winter?
Literally 20 minutes work if you go slowly and carefully, costs less than a tenner. I’ll also put money on the driver’s side being the dirty one
Technoholic said:
I know, I’d like to hear a cold start on a standard exhaust first to see if it’s worth it as this is a 7k system! So not going to give it up lightly
Even the standard system is bloody loud during the cat warm-up cycle. But, you can code it out - much better than losing that wonderful Akrapovic system. MDifficult said:
Even the standard system is bloody loud during the cat warm-up cycle. But, you can code it out - much better than losing that wonderful Akrapovic system.
Yes I’ve heard that can be done, I wonder if you can reduce the time rather than code it out completely. I do like it so that would be a compromise!Technoholic said:
I'm currently leaning towards picking up a M6 of the early F13 variety, probably 2012-2013, and Sakhir Orange ideally.
This won't be my primary car (although it may be for a short while during the covid situation when miles are low and lugging family around can work with my wife's car) but let's say it would be used 50% of my driving time.
I've had a 640d GC before, loved it, but this will be a bit older and obviously an M car, and a coupe.
Are there any major pitfalls I should be looking out for in a car such as this?
Thanks
Same as with any s63 or m car for the matter, rod bearings still go on these. That's the main issue. I remember something on the control arms failed on the m5, giving it a clunk but most were changed under warranty. This won't be my primary car (although it may be for a short while during the covid situation when miles are low and lugging family around can work with my wife's car) but let's say it would be used 50% of my driving time.
I've had a 640d GC before, loved it, but this will be a bit older and obviously an M car, and a coupe.
Are there any major pitfalls I should be looking out for in a car such as this?
Thanks
On any s63 lump, the trick is to use a slightly thicker and better oil with shorter changing intervals and to always keep your oil and coolant topped and do a gearbox service with a metal pan, plastic one tends to warp itself and loose oil.
Another tiny mod on the early cars is to add a heatshield to the rubber on the turbo cooling pipes, there was a problem of these melting/coming off, BMW has an updated part.
That's pretty much it, everything else is normal used car inspection. But do change the bearings and change it to a 5w40 - 5w50 proper quality oil, ester based full synthetic with good detergency and some zddp will keep it running for ages.
Well given that you got it, and for all of you that are having oil consumption problems here is the solution:
Clean your pcv valve, take your intake pipes, give it a proper clean and change to redline oil, it has quite a good detergency and will help avoid sludge after the pcv exit. The redline oil is ester based so it will help with seals and gaskets as well.
Give a good look around the turbos, the wastage (sometimes they do suffer from wastegate valve rattle).
Another thing I would definetly run is an injector/fuel system cleaner, these direct injectors do not like sludge on them and if it is consuming oil more than it should, be sure that there is way more sludge than expected and an injector trashed = rebuild, fuel pumps are not the most reliable things either so, might as well spend 10 pounds and help everything work better and avoid expensive problems.
Again, do proper services on them, not the cost cutting leased car ones, get insta+ and a bag of spanners and do proper service (ALL filters from fuel to Oils), all fluids (oil, gearbox oil (30k-40k miles, coolant), good check on coils and plugs, bds to change but they do like going thru them (I always had 2 plugs and coils on the car lol and they came handy), run injector cleaner.
Again avoids a bloody whole host of problems, costed me around oil coolant (plus waterwetter) and all filters came to around 200-250 pounds or so, gearbox +200 pounds, +250 for the gearbox, did it every 3 to 4 services, add 300 for plugs and coils (coils are a bit overkill tho, just check for misfires and change on need).
Sold the car, with 90c thermostat done, bearings, wastegate, metal pan and magnetic drain bolt on gearbox, this routine done every 8k-10k km since 30k km, with 150k km original engine, is closing on 300k km of not an easy life, only money he spent was on bushes and a suspension refresh and the odd bit and bob, running 700hp since the day I got it, might pick it from him again.
Clean your pcv valve, take your intake pipes, give it a proper clean and change to redline oil, it has quite a good detergency and will help avoid sludge after the pcv exit. The redline oil is ester based so it will help with seals and gaskets as well.
Give a good look around the turbos, the wastage (sometimes they do suffer from wastegate valve rattle).
Another thing I would definetly run is an injector/fuel system cleaner, these direct injectors do not like sludge on them and if it is consuming oil more than it should, be sure that there is way more sludge than expected and an injector trashed = rebuild, fuel pumps are not the most reliable things either so, might as well spend 10 pounds and help everything work better and avoid expensive problems.
Again, do proper services on them, not the cost cutting leased car ones, get insta+ and a bag of spanners and do proper service (ALL filters from fuel to Oils), all fluids (oil, gearbox oil (30k-40k miles, coolant), good check on coils and plugs, bds to change but they do like going thru them (I always had 2 plugs and coils on the car lol and they came handy), run injector cleaner.
Again avoids a bloody whole host of problems, costed me around oil coolant (plus waterwetter) and all filters came to around 200-250 pounds or so, gearbox +200 pounds, +250 for the gearbox, did it every 3 to 4 services, add 300 for plugs and coils (coils are a bit overkill tho, just check for misfires and change on need).
Sold the car, with 90c thermostat done, bearings, wastegate, metal pan and magnetic drain bolt on gearbox, this routine done every 8k-10k km since 30k km, with 150k km original engine, is closing on 300k km of not an easy life, only money he spent was on bushes and a suspension refresh and the odd bit and bob, running 700hp since the day I got it, might pick it from him again.
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