Buying M3 on Milage or Age?

Buying M3 on Milage or Age?

Author
Discussion

JimboCTR

Original Poster:

290 posts

211 months

Monday 13th August 2007
quotequote all
All,

I am thinking about joining the fold and swapping my Civic Type R for an E46 M3.

I want a more interesting car than at present that is capable of the odd track day and will be fun to drive. I have considered getting a track day / fun car but only have one parking space so it is a bit impractical to have that and a derv to rack up the miles on.

I do quite a few miles for work (prob 20000 per year inc personal mileage) but think it still works out to try and get one car that can do both. Hence the M3 idea (work says no to 2 seaters/convertables etc).

So apologies for being lazy with the search function but can I get some advice...

1) What does 20,000 miles per year equate to in servicing costs (BMW/non BMW)?
2) Which is the better way to go, buy an older car with less miles (eg 2002 with 25K) or newer with more (2004 with 54K)? I have seen both these examples with only a few £k difference.
3) Were there any signifigant changes/upgrades between these years?
4) Personally not to fussed about SMG/Manual (still need to test drive!), are there any issues with SMG over time?
5) Any general advice appreciated!

Sorry for the long post, be gentle with me as I am new to BMWs in general.

Jim

Diceman

50 posts

201 months

Tuesday 21st August 2007
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Hi,
I recently (couple of weeks) swapped cars from a 2002 Mondeo & 1995 Celica Gt-four (toy car) for a 2003 E46 M3 for this exact reason. 1 Car, does all.

Anyway, my advice after looking around for 6 months is
A) avoid SMG if you are concerned about the possible rebuild costs of faulty hydraulics, it can be thousands.
B) Early cars (2001 and upto mid/late 2002) had bearing issues that may have been replaced during a recall or coudl have caused bottom end failure. IMHO I would avoid these regardless as small bits of bearing woudl still have detrimental effects on the engine even if the bearings had been swapped under recall conditions. (do some research on manufacturing dates for these cars effected.
C) I have just been along to my first track day in the M3 and whilst I would say it is a very capable car on track I would probably want the following if it were to be a regular thing 1) 4 wheel alignment to dial out some understeer, 2) stiffer roll control, 3) better brakes. I took the day very very easy and TBH I did not find brakes or roll an issue at my padestrian pace but feel it would have been had I pushed hard. I certainly have a lot to learn about the car on track as it requires much smoother & precise inputs compared to me previous cars.
D) Complying with section "B" above I would buy on condition. Age doesn't matter, miles can be hard or easy miles. Looking at the previous service intervals will give you an idea on how it has been driven as they adjust service interval with fuel consumption essentially.
E) Basic service costs:- Oil £120-£200 (12K mile intervals)every 24K miles (Inspection 1)add another £400, every 48K miles (Inspection 2)add another £400 on top of inspection 1.

The above does not include tyres, brakes etc etc. Rear tyres are circa £160 each. Brakes are circa £450 each end. I average between 25 & 33 MPG depending on journey type. More like 12-16MPG on track.

jezzaaa

1,867 posts

260 months

Tuesday 21st August 2007
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There's one reason to go for a lower mileage one...and that is if you want to extend the warranty with BMW...they don't do warranties over 100,000 miles and if it's over 60,000 it's REALLY expensive.

Diceman

50 posts

201 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2007
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Yes you do have a point there.
A lot of the cars will not be covered by BMW warranty anyway and BMW try not to let you take out a warranty if the warranty has lapsed at all. TBH I would either go for a 3rd party warranty at circa 1/2 the price or just save the money for a rainy day if things go tits up.

I however took a different route! I bought from a BMW dealer a 8.5K mile 53 plate M3 and hence it came with a warranty. I mainly bought on condition as essentially it is condition wise a new car in every way but with 4 years depreciation saved.