Which MX5 for Road and Track ?
Discussion
Get a set of Pagid Discs and a set of EBC Yellow or Blue pads this is what some Supercup racers use generally Blue on the front Yellow on the back, although most people opt for Carbo Tech Pads on the front but you don't want these on the road as they are rubbish when cold.
Brake balance as standard isn't great and tends to be too far rear for when you really start pushing on. No easy fix for this sadly without adding a bias valve.
The suspension is 2 high as standard, so I would go for a set of coilovers if you can afford it and then get a proper set up put on it. You won't need to change the roll bars with a decent set of coilovers.
Power wise the Manifold is the most restrictive part of the system, a racing beat or similar manifold with a jetex mid cat and 2.5inch pipe is a good bet, note that the back boxes can be very restrictive so choose carefully. You don;t need to remap it just reset the ECU.
Induction kit releases a bit more but not a lot.
Other things to note.
The early gearboxes have a weak 3rd gear selector fork that can break, this can be beefed up instructions are on the Supercup website.
The gearbox also suffers from 3rd gear synchro failures, it will present as baulking while shifting to 3rd.
The Gearboxes are sensitive to oil, I use Millers CRX 75-90NT but don't put that in the diff it'll kill it, cheapo halfords of the correct grade is better for the Diff.
Calipers can stick, these can be fixed by taking apart and cleaning greasing the slider pins, usually the don't actually need new seals.
Hope that helps
Rob
Brake balance as standard isn't great and tends to be too far rear for when you really start pushing on. No easy fix for this sadly without adding a bias valve.
The suspension is 2 high as standard, so I would go for a set of coilovers if you can afford it and then get a proper set up put on it. You won't need to change the roll bars with a decent set of coilovers.
Power wise the Manifold is the most restrictive part of the system, a racing beat or similar manifold with a jetex mid cat and 2.5inch pipe is a good bet, note that the back boxes can be very restrictive so choose carefully. You don;t need to remap it just reset the ECU.
Induction kit releases a bit more but not a lot.
Other things to note.
The early gearboxes have a weak 3rd gear selector fork that can break, this can be beefed up instructions are on the Supercup website.
The gearbox also suffers from 3rd gear synchro failures, it will present as baulking while shifting to 3rd.
The Gearboxes are sensitive to oil, I use Millers CRX 75-90NT but don't put that in the diff it'll kill it, cheapo halfords of the correct grade is better for the Diff.
Calipers can stick, these can be fixed by taking apart and cleaning greasing the slider pins, usually the don't actually need new seals.
Hope that helps
Rob
Bertrum said:
. You don;t need to remap it just reset the ECU.
Agree with all of the above with the exception of this bit. Resetting the ECU will make a small difference but it if you swap the manifold you won't get the best from it without a remap. Also the remap can remove the throttle opening restriction in 1st and 2nd gear. This makes a big difference off the lights as on a standard car 1st and 2nd are limited to something like 50% open throttle no matter how hard you mash the peddle into the bulkhead. HorneyMX5 said:
Agree with all of the above with the exception of this bit. Resetting the ECU will make a small difference but it if you swap the manifold you won't get the best from it without a remap. Also the remap can remove the throttle opening restriction in 1st and 2nd gear. This makes a big difference off the lights as on a standard car 1st and 2nd are limited to something like 50% open throttle no matter how hard you mash the peddle into the bulkhead.
Hate that nanny nonsense got that "feature" on my 350Z, very frustrating.Bertrum said:
Brake balance as standard isn't great and tends to be too far rear for when you really start pushing on. No easy fix for this sadly without adding a bias valve.
.
The early gearboxes have a weak 3rd gear selector fork that can break, this can be beefed up instructions are on the Supercup website.
The Gearboxes are sensitive to oil, I use Millers CRX 75-90NT but don't put that in the diff it'll kill it, cheapo halfords of the correct grade is better for the Diff.
You could put some crap pads in the rear, that helps..
The early gearboxes have a weak 3rd gear selector fork that can break, this can be beefed up instructions are on the Supercup website.
The Gearboxes are sensitive to oil, I use Millers CRX 75-90NT but don't put that in the diff it'll kill it, cheapo halfords of the correct grade is better for the Diff.
Where is that selector fork mod? Here: http://www.mx5supercup.co.uk/ ?
I'm wonder how oil can break a Torsen diff?
Here http://www.mx5supercup.co.uk/technical-item.php?id...
The oil was too thin, it overheated and that was that. Killed 2 with the wrong oil. Was racing it though.
The oil was too thin, it overheated and that was that. Killed 2 with the wrong oil. Was racing it though.
Bertrum said:
Here http://www.mx5supercup.co.uk/technical-item.php?id...
The oil was too thin, it overheated and that was that. Killed 2 with the wrong oil. Was racing it though.
Ok thanks for that, maybe the bearings overheated? I've put SAE 90 in mine as per Mazdas spec.The oil was too thin, it overheated and that was that. Killed 2 with the wrong oil. Was racing it though.
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