Unusual job on the bench today

Unusual job on the bench today

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defblade

7,448 posts

214 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
I'd like to say the stuff you consider routine can still be very important to the customer...

...which brings me onto my post - could I pick your brain, please?

I broke my hand/wrist in a motorbike RTC just about a year ago, and it's clear that I'm going to have to have my wedding ring resized as I still can't get it over my knuckle.
(Off topic: Thanks again to the paramedic whose first comment was "you're favouring that hand. Can you get your wedding ring off?")

I've been putting it off a bit though as my wedding ring is a bit more complicated than a plain band - it's 2 different metals, with a twisted centre, like this:



Is resizing this type going to be massively complex/expensive?

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
defblade said:
I'd like to say the stuff you consider routine can still be very important to the customer...

...which brings me onto my post - could I pick your brain, please?

I broke my hand/wrist in a motorbike RTC just about a year ago, and it's clear that I'm going to have to have my wedding ring resized as I still can't get it over my knuckle.
(Off topic: Thanks again to the paramedic whose first comment was "you're favouring that hand. Can you get your wedding ring off?")

I've been putting it off a bit though as my wedding ring is a bit more complicated than a plain band - it's 2 different metals, with a twisted centre, like this:



Is resizing this type going to be massively complex/expensive?
Afternoon. Yes, we can size this ring. Done plenty of them in the past. The cost really depends on how much bigger we need to make the ring as this dictates the method we use and the amount of metal we have to add. I'd say the best next step for you is to email me and then if possible come and see me so I can accurately gauge the job in hand. If distance is an issue we can still achieve a satisfactory results by other means.

Eddie

LordGrover

33,552 posts

213 months

Sunday 14th February 2016
quotequote all
An entertaining and interesting thread. Good to see genuine craftsmanship still alive and kicking.
Hope you find a good apprentice to hand down the knowledge and skills. The experience will be up to him/her.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Monday 22nd February 2016
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Today I'm going to revisit a previous subject in this thread, but with a new ring: Claw retipping.

This is pretty much what pays my bills and puts fuel in the car. I reckon I spend 80% of my bench time soldering these little blighters on in a bid to preserve the expensive element of the ring, the stones. Today I'm doing a 5 stone engagement ring. The stones are graduated old cut diamonds and the ring is a good few years old. Enjoy: (apologies for slighlty below par image quality. I have a newer, but crappier phone).

This is the subject of the day. 5 stone, 18ct yellow and white gold engagement ring. You can just about see that the claws are worn to death. The undersetting is also pretty worn where it's been sat against a wedding ring but the job spec says leave this alone as funds are tight.



The old claws are filed back to expose fresh metal. They are filed at an angle to give a good surface area for soldering the new claws. You can see from the blackness of the ring in this pic that i've also applied the ever useful borax and heated it up:



We'll cut through the processes in quick time as it's just a recap of a previous topic. Here you can see i've applied all the claws on one side of the ring. The claws are made from 18ct white gold and soldered on using Easy500 white gold solder. This is a lower temp solder which reduces the risk to the diamonds.



And all soldered on. Neat work is key in this job. If it looks messy before the finishing begins then it'll end messy:



The claws are then trimmed to a rough length using a pair of fine nosed cutters:



And the same on the sides:





I then use a grade 4 triangle file to profile the sides of the claws. This is the most tricky part of the job and the success of it is dictated by the quality and neatness of the soldering. Too little solder / surface area and rthe claws will be weak. Too much and they'll be too bulky.





The tips are then filed and once the right length I use a graining tool to round off the ends before polishing:







The ring is then cleaned up and buffed to a fine grade before we polish and rhodium plate the head. I'll do the polishing tomorrow and post up the finished example.







Eddie



Edited by ecain63 on Monday 22 February 21:58

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Tuesday 23rd February 2016
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As promised, the final stage of the claw tipping job:

Yesterday we finished with the ring being made ready for polishing. Here it is being polished:







The ring then gets cleaned (see if you can spot it amongst today's other jobs):



And is dried ready for masking and plating:



4 rings painted ready for plating:



All plated:



Processed with the others:



All done (excuse the little bit of fluff on the right hand claw smile ):









Eddie

longshot

3,286 posts

199 months

Tuesday 23rd February 2016
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Great read again.

What is the red stuff and what does it do? (apologies if you have explained this before)

How many items do you do in a day? How many days work is that on your bench?

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Wednesday 24th February 2016
quotequote all
longshot said:
Great read again.

What is the red stuff and what does it do? (apologies if you have explained this before)

How many items do you do in a day? How many days work is that on your bench?
The red stuff is simply nail polish. Does the job and keeps costs down. Easy to apply and easy to remove with MEK.

We do up to 100 rings a day and probably 20 or 30 chains. Really depends on the job. Sizings are easy and we can knock out loads in a few hours. Claw work etc is much more labour intensive so maybe 6 to 10 a day for me. We punch well above our weight for a 2 man team.

Dr G

15,219 posts

243 months

Wednesday 24th February 2016
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I was going to say; that sounds like a pretty substantial workload!

I think your last two posts sum up a hell of a lot of the appeal of dealing with (or simply observing) someone a bit old school. A lot of those are very, very personal items and it means a lot to know that there's a person and a craftsman behind them rather than a machine, a Chinese production-line, or a faceless corporation.

Dibble

12,938 posts

241 months

Wednesday 24th February 2016
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Can you stick up some photos of the tools you use as well? I'm guessing a triangle file and fine snips (can't remember exactly what you called them sorry) are exactly as I'd expect... But I'd be interested to see the "business end" as well as the article itself.

Said it before , but worth saying again, this is one of my favourite PH threads. And I'm glad your health is ok too.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Wednesday 24th February 2016
quotequote all
Dr G said:
I was going to say; that sounds like a pretty substantial workload!

I think your last two posts sum up a hell of a lot of the appeal of dealing with (or simply observing) someone a bit old school. A lot of those are very, very personal items and it means a lot to know that there's a person and a craftsman behind them rather than a machine, a Chinese production-line, or a faceless corporation.
Yeah, i'm always working above my capacity but somehow I manage to get it done. Still not finding time for a break though. Hopefully a new employee will appear one day and I'll realise my dream of having a lunch hour! lol

Thank you for the compliment. smile

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Wednesday 24th February 2016
quotequote all
Dibble said:
Can you stick up some photos of the tools you use as well? I'm guessing a triangle file and fine snips (can't remember exactly what you called them sorry) are exactly as I'd expect... But I'd be interested to see the "business end" as well as the article itself.

Said it before , but worth saying again, this is one of my favourite PH threads. And I'm glad your health is ok too.
Yeah, I'll see what I can do. Maybe I could do a walk around video so you can see the environment we live / work in?? Keep your eyes peeled for an update smile

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Monday 29th February 2016
quotequote all
Dibble said:
Can you stick up some photos of the tools you use as well? I'm guessing a triangle file and fine snips (can't remember exactly what you called them sorry) are exactly as I'd expect... But I'd be interested to see the "business end" as well as the article itself.

Said it before , but worth saying again, this is one of my favourite PH threads. And I'm glad your health is ok too.
Cheesey video warning:

https://youtu.be/bAhHu4gNxbs

Gingerbread Man

9,171 posts

214 months

Monday 29th February 2016
quotequote all
ecain63 said:
Cheesey video warning:

https://youtu.be/bAhHu4gNxbs
"This video is private.

Sorry about that."

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Monday 29th February 2016
quotequote all
Gingerbread Man said:
ecain63 said:
Cheesey video warning:

https://youtu.be/bAhHu4gNxbs
"This video is private.

Sorry about that."
Hopefully it now works?

Gingerbread Man

9,171 posts

214 months

Monday 29th February 2016
quotequote all
ecain63 said:
Gingerbread Man said:
ecain63 said:
Cheesey video warning:

https://youtu.be/bAhHu4gNxbs
"This video is private.

Sorry about that."
Hopefully it now works?
Jobs a gooden

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Monday 29th February 2016
quotequote all
Coolio!

longshot

3,286 posts

199 months

Monday 29th February 2016
quotequote all
Enjoyed that.

I had wondered how you made rings smaller. A demo perhaps one day?

How on Earth did the World manage before the plastic Chinese tray was invented. I don't now how I'd manage without them.

Thanks for the vid.

ecain63

Original Poster:

10,588 posts

176 months

Monday 29th February 2016
quotequote all
longshot said:
Enjoyed that.

I had wondered how you made rings smaller. A demo perhaps one day?

How on Earth did the World manage before the plastic Chinese tray was invented. I don't now how I'd manage without them.

Thanks for the vid.
Previous page has ring sizing images. Wedding rings can be compressed using the equipment in the video so long as it's not patterned. I'll put a video up some time.

wolfracesonic

7,055 posts

128 months

Tuesday 1st March 2016
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Interesting stuff, workshops like yours used to be/are called 'Little mesters' here in Sheffield, though mainly cutlery related. Have you got any tools that are no longer made that you would be lost without?

Coneyhurst Blue

583 posts

193 months

Tuesday 1st March 2016
quotequote all
Love your work Eddie, such talent.
How does one get hold of you ? I have something which possibly needs your attention !
Cheers.