Unusual job on the bench today
Discussion
I started as an apprentice in Hatton Garden as a jobbing jeweller/mounter at the age of 15, done that for a coulple of years and went over to setting. Started working for my self as a setter when I was 21 and specialised in that. I done that for a number of years until I started manufacturing where I used to deal with retailers all over the country, still working from London. I was lucky enough from this to find a good contact in Scotland, they are a large retailer who manufacture their own jewellery so I started to do their setting as well as deal with a few shops and private customers, and in 95 moved to beautiful Perthshire working from home. I didn’t get so much into making things as you have, but used to do some repairs. I usually went to mount manufacturers or bought the finding and assembled them, but I did make a few TVR related items.
Hi! Long time no speak 
Truth is it gets harder and harder to find "unusual jobs" that you haven't already seen. But, after 5 weeks of dross I've finally found something that you might actually read without falling asleep.
What's on for today then?
As with any shop, we can't always guarantee that we have in the window display exactly what a customer is looking for. We might be close with the stock options but sometimes close isn't enough. Luckily many of our window shoppers come in to see what we do and ask questions about the items.
This ring is readily available in 18ct yellow gold and in platinum but the customer could't gel with either. She wanted a bit more 'splash' on the finger too but without plumping for the near £9k range topper there wasn't anything off the shelf to suit. So what do we do?
After a chat we decided that we would swap the centre platinum band for an 18ct yellow gold section and also change the 4 smaller diamonds and settings from 0.05ct each to 0.13ct each. It's a fiddly job with the use of different metals and solders but with care it can be achieved to a budget and short timescale. All in the conversion took me about 3 hours.
Enjoy:
First the centre band is cut out. The slot needs to be tapered in order to accept the yellow one when it comes:
18ct yellow wire is drawn down and length soldered in place at one end. I've skipped a pic too and you'll notice that I've also cut out one small setting and soldered in its place a section of 4mm platinum tubing:
The opposite end of the ring also gets a length of 18ct yellow fitted.
Stage 1 complete, a bit of a clean and on with the complex areas:
With some more 4mm platinum tube I start to add in the other upscaled settings:
The positioning is to match the original item so a bit of overlapping is required. It's messy at first but will be soldered and cut to shape later:
Next one going in:
And then the fourth:
With the settings in place it's time to get the stones in:
One at a time they go in:
Until they are all set:
The ring is then tidied ready for polishing:
Then polished:
And it's all done:
Truth is it gets harder and harder to find "unusual jobs" that you haven't already seen. But, after 5 weeks of dross I've finally found something that you might actually read without falling asleep.
What's on for today then?
As with any shop, we can't always guarantee that we have in the window display exactly what a customer is looking for. We might be close with the stock options but sometimes close isn't enough. Luckily many of our window shoppers come in to see what we do and ask questions about the items.
This ring is readily available in 18ct yellow gold and in platinum but the customer could't gel with either. She wanted a bit more 'splash' on the finger too but without plumping for the near £9k range topper there wasn't anything off the shelf to suit. So what do we do?
After a chat we decided that we would swap the centre platinum band for an 18ct yellow gold section and also change the 4 smaller diamonds and settings from 0.05ct each to 0.13ct each. It's a fiddly job with the use of different metals and solders but with care it can be achieved to a budget and short timescale. All in the conversion took me about 3 hours.
Enjoy:
First the centre band is cut out. The slot needs to be tapered in order to accept the yellow one when it comes:
18ct yellow wire is drawn down and length soldered in place at one end. I've skipped a pic too and you'll notice that I've also cut out one small setting and soldered in its place a section of 4mm platinum tubing:
The opposite end of the ring also gets a length of 18ct yellow fitted.
Stage 1 complete, a bit of a clean and on with the complex areas:
With some more 4mm platinum tube I start to add in the other upscaled settings:
The positioning is to match the original item so a bit of overlapping is required. It's messy at first but will be soldered and cut to shape later:
Next one going in:
And then the fourth:
With the settings in place it's time to get the stones in:
One at a time they go in:
Until they are all set:
The ring is then tidied ready for polishing:
Then polished:
And it's all done:
Edited by ecain63 on Friday 13th April 21:36
Another bespoke item produced today.
Remember that black, pear shaped diamond engagement ring I made a few months back? Here is the wedding band to match. The old cut diamonds were chosen to contrast the black stone while the metalwork is to be kept as close to the style of the engagement ring as possible:
Eddie
Remember that black, pear shaped diamond engagement ring I made a few months back? Here is the wedding band to match. The old cut diamonds were chosen to contrast the black stone while the metalwork is to be kept as close to the style of the engagement ring as possible:
Eddie
NDA said:
That's a strange looking stone Eddie.... any details about it? Are they cheaper than regular diamonds?
Yeah, they're something you don't see everyday. Cost wise, they are cheap enough. Circa £200-400 per carat at that size. They do come with risks attached as they are more prone to cracking or breaking than solid white diamonds. 
LivingTheDream said:
Anything new for us Eddie?
Spending a lot of time looking at very ordinary jewellery at the moment (on the hunt for wedding rings) and could do with a fix of your handywork
I was only wondering yesterday if there was anything new for us to look at. I didn’t realise it had been two months since we’d last had an update.Spending a lot of time looking at very ordinary jewellery at the moment (on the hunt for wedding rings) and could do with a fix of your handywork
C’mon Eddie, never mind running a business, a load of random near-stalkers from the Internet want to see “stuff” being made/fixed. Get your priorities in order, man!
Just a quick note to say thanks to Eddie on sorting me some earrings for my wife's upcoming birthday. I was let down by a high-street jeweller, remembered this thread and dropped Eddie a mail.
Few mails back and forwards and a picture of these arrived.
Which were quickly turned into these,
From a first email on a Monday afternoon, they were with me by the Friday. Many thanks again
Few mails back and forwards and a picture of these arrived.
Which were quickly turned into these,
From a first email on a Monday afternoon, they were with me by the Friday. Many thanks again
Dibble said:
LivingTheDream said:
Anything new for us Eddie?
Spending a lot of time looking at very ordinary jewellery at the moment (on the hunt for wedding rings) and could do with a fix of your handywork
I was only wondering yesterday if there was anything new for us to look at. I didn’t realise it had been two months since we’d last had an update.Spending a lot of time looking at very ordinary jewellery at the moment (on the hunt for wedding rings) and could do with a fix of your handywork
C’mon Eddie, never mind running a business, a load of random near-stalkers from the Internet want to see “stuff” being made/fixed. Get your priorities in order, man!
Howdy guys.
I have been meaning to post up but there is 1 thing in my way.....
I moved house in May and our local internet speed is practically a negative number. Amazing in 2018 that we are on sub 3Mb compared to over 40 in my previous house round the corner.
Anyway, I've done a couple of jobs recently that I've photographed and bunged in my FB page from work. As soon as I get a minute I'll transplant to here for you all to gawp at
Thanks to the handful of PHers who've come to me over the past few weeks. It's good to hear from you and even nicer that I'm still considered and appreciated for my work
I have been meaning to post up but there is 1 thing in my way.....
I moved house in May and our local internet speed is practically a negative number. Amazing in 2018 that we are on sub 3Mb compared to over 40 in my previous house round the corner.
Anyway, I've done a couple of jobs recently that I've photographed and bunged in my FB page from work. As soon as I get a minute I'll transplant to here for you all to gawp at
Thanks to the handful of PHers who've come to me over the past few weeks. It's good to hear from you and even nicer that I'm still considered and appreciated for my work
I hope the house move all went well. Bit of a bummer with the internet speeds (mainly for us, obviously!).
I do still need to come and see you, but I darent trust the mail with the ring I need looking at, so it will be a hand delivery by me at some point in the future. I’ll make sure I give you plenty of notice and arrange it when it works for you.
I’m certainly looking forward to your updates. I’m sure everyone else is too. I find the whole process fascinating.
I do still need to come and see you, but I darent trust the mail with the ring I need looking at, so it will be a hand delivery by me at some point in the future. I’ll make sure I give you plenty of notice and arrange it when it works for you.
I’m certainly looking forward to your updates. I’m sure everyone else is too. I find the whole process fascinating.
Howdy
Just waved off the happy couple after making this shaped platinum band for them this morning (and supplying a gents platinum band)
Any questions on the processes just ask
As you can see, in the pic you have 3 items. The original engagement ring top left which I made last year. Top right is a new 5mm court shaped blank in platinum. Bottom is a 3mm square bar of platinum, which is what we'll spend most of our time on here,
So the bar gets rolled out to 2mm square ready for bending. The engagement ring is 1.6 x 2.15 at the base so once hammered out we'll achieve what we need with a 2mm square.
The bar is then turned to form a loose band and twisted to start the shaping process.
A little more twisting and you can see the shape forming.
The overhang on the outside is notched.....
And then bent round the head of the engagement ring to create the wraparound shape.
To fill the cuts and gaps I use a platinum solder. Platinum solder is a bit of a sod and you'll find many goldsmiths will only use a low temperature (called "easy" or "extra easy") solder because they are scared of the heat required to melt the hard stuff. The low temperature material will not polish well though and because it's not as dense as the platinum bar it polishes out leaving a ridge. Some of you with platinum rings may have experienced this ridge showing after sizing?? It can happen on other metals too.
After the joints are soldered the excess is filed away and the shape finalised....
With the hard bit done it's now time to clean up the bands, both his and hers (his also needed taking up a size). The bands are then polished along with the engagement ring and it's all good to go
Another one we keep getting back is this marquis shaped engagement ring. Originally on a single, diamond set band we have (last year) added a diamond set, integral wedding band and this week another to match. Bit of a corker!
Just waved off the happy couple after making this shaped platinum band for them this morning (and supplying a gents platinum band)
Any questions on the processes just ask
As you can see, in the pic you have 3 items. The original engagement ring top left which I made last year. Top right is a new 5mm court shaped blank in platinum. Bottom is a 3mm square bar of platinum, which is what we'll spend most of our time on here,
So the bar gets rolled out to 2mm square ready for bending. The engagement ring is 1.6 x 2.15 at the base so once hammered out we'll achieve what we need with a 2mm square.
The bar is then turned to form a loose band and twisted to start the shaping process.
A little more twisting and you can see the shape forming.
The overhang on the outside is notched.....
And then bent round the head of the engagement ring to create the wraparound shape.
To fill the cuts and gaps I use a platinum solder. Platinum solder is a bit of a sod and you'll find many goldsmiths will only use a low temperature (called "easy" or "extra easy") solder because they are scared of the heat required to melt the hard stuff. The low temperature material will not polish well though and because it's not as dense as the platinum bar it polishes out leaving a ridge. Some of you with platinum rings may have experienced this ridge showing after sizing?? It can happen on other metals too.
After the joints are soldered the excess is filed away and the shape finalised....
With the hard bit done it's now time to clean up the bands, both his and hers (his also needed taking up a size). The bands are then polished along with the engagement ring and it's all good to go
Another one we keep getting back is this marquis shaped engagement ring. Originally on a single, diamond set band we have (last year) added a diamond set, integral wedding band and this week another to match. Bit of a corker!
Edited by ecain63 on Sunday 8th July 20:58
Morning all.....
On the 6th of next month I'll be having my 3 year post treatment scan, which according to my nurse specialist is a bit of a milestone. Most oncology units are now looking at a 3 year surveillance plan as opposed to the old 5 year system so in theory that could be me signed off in a month or so
Luckily my local hospital and its partners are going to continue the 5 years of scans etc but even so, 3 years is a good box to tick. I told my nurse specialist ("other wife", as she's known) that if I made it through this crap I'd make her something in the workshop...... and that time has arrived..... fingers crossed!
Having created a tag-line for the hospital earlier this year, "superheroes do exist, they work at RBCH" I thought I'd keep with the theme and make this: The material is 14ct white gold (i had an excess of it) and I used no imagery or casts to make it, just the minds eye and and a couple if files / drills.
Enjoy......
The offending metal, a lump of 14ct white gold that I had in scrap. It's not a material that we use much in the UK so rather than send it off for refining / cash I have found it a good home. The metal is rolled and different gauges made to fit the needs of the project:
With the wires made the files now come out. I'll not say what it is yet, but hopefully the images should make it obvious......
With the largest section roughly filed to shape the wires now come into play. I use a mid level white solder for this as the metal has a higher melting temperature than 9ct but lower than 18ct so i need to exercise a little caution with the heat.....
This next pic should make sense now....
Because space is tight i have to try to profile the remaining limbs before they are soldered. This is a challenge in itself because they are so small.
Before we move to the arms i just want to say something about womens bottoms and the issue of flattery
I had not foreseen the potential to get this wrong and it's incredibly difficult to sculpt a womans arse without getting into hot water. Luckily my file worked in tune with my eye and I think i did it some justice. The things that you have to overcome in this job.......
With the downward arm on, the next thing to do is the head and hair. I remelted the head section and made a ball of gold.
Bum picture lol
The hair will go on first. Simply a section of rectangular wire that will be shaped to a ponytail....
Superheroes wear capes..... apparently. A section of gold is rolled flat:
And then cut and shaped:
This is then soldered under the hair line and the cape bent a bit to show a breeze
Arm number 2: Again to avoid damaging the head area i profile it before it's soldered:
The underwear and chest area is next
I won't go too mad here, but effectively a bit of cleavage and some loose detailing to show an armoured suit:
Faces ruin pieces like this (in my opinion) so I'm leaving it in a kind of cartoon state with a sort of helmet visor finish. It's effective and doesn't complicate things. I won't polish it because it needs to be low-key so have gone over it with a course mop and cleaned it up. I still need to fill a couple of pores and add a badge / lapel pin but you get the picture.
Eddie
On the 6th of next month I'll be having my 3 year post treatment scan, which according to my nurse specialist is a bit of a milestone. Most oncology units are now looking at a 3 year surveillance plan as opposed to the old 5 year system so in theory that could be me signed off in a month or so
Luckily my local hospital and its partners are going to continue the 5 years of scans etc but even so, 3 years is a good box to tick. I told my nurse specialist ("other wife", as she's known) that if I made it through this crap I'd make her something in the workshop...... and that time has arrived..... fingers crossed! Having created a tag-line for the hospital earlier this year, "superheroes do exist, they work at RBCH" I thought I'd keep with the theme and make this: The material is 14ct white gold (i had an excess of it) and I used no imagery or casts to make it, just the minds eye and and a couple if files / drills.
Enjoy......
The offending metal, a lump of 14ct white gold that I had in scrap. It's not a material that we use much in the UK so rather than send it off for refining / cash I have found it a good home. The metal is rolled and different gauges made to fit the needs of the project:
With the wires made the files now come out. I'll not say what it is yet, but hopefully the images should make it obvious......
With the largest section roughly filed to shape the wires now come into play. I use a mid level white solder for this as the metal has a higher melting temperature than 9ct but lower than 18ct so i need to exercise a little caution with the heat.....
This next pic should make sense now....
Because space is tight i have to try to profile the remaining limbs before they are soldered. This is a challenge in itself because they are so small.
Before we move to the arms i just want to say something about womens bottoms and the issue of flattery
I had not foreseen the potential to get this wrong and it's incredibly difficult to sculpt a womans arse without getting into hot water. Luckily my file worked in tune with my eye and I think i did it some justice. The things that you have to overcome in this job.......
With the downward arm on, the next thing to do is the head and hair. I remelted the head section and made a ball of gold.
Bum picture lol
The hair will go on first. Simply a section of rectangular wire that will be shaped to a ponytail....
Superheroes wear capes..... apparently. A section of gold is rolled flat:
And then cut and shaped:
This is then soldered under the hair line and the cape bent a bit to show a breeze
Arm number 2: Again to avoid damaging the head area i profile it before it's soldered:
The underwear and chest area is next
I won't go too mad here, but effectively a bit of cleavage and some loose detailing to show an armoured suit:
Faces ruin pieces like this (in my opinion) so I'm leaving it in a kind of cartoon state with a sort of helmet visor finish. It's effective and doesn't complicate things. I won't polish it because it needs to be low-key so have gone over it with a course mop and cleaned it up. I still need to fill a couple of pores and add a badge / lapel pin but you get the picture.
Eddie
Edited by ecain63 on Saturday 14th July 10:04
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