Paddle Boarding

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Hard-Drive said:

Hi guys, thread newbie here. I'm a yachtie and dinghy sailor, and after spending a few nights at anchor in Chichester Harbour over the weekend and watching people having fun on their SUPs, I really fancy one.

I really don't want to spend a lot, and intended use will be just paddling my 90kg around in fairly flat water, potentially with a 5 year old boy or a small labradoodle on the front. It will probably be used a dozen or so times a year, so I'm really thinking more Decathlon than Red.

I guess I want something between 10-12'...are there any good deals or recommended boards around at the moment?

Many thanks!

Hi. Use the information I've shared in the first few pages of this thread as your guide to the construction and type of SUP for your own intended use. Then choose your SUP wisely. If you buy the 'wrong' SUP, you'll get bored with it very quickly.

And buy the best 'board' you can. Don't worry too much about accessories (paddles, bags, fins etc) because you can always upgrade them if and when necessary.

There was a real shortage of SUP's last year so get buying now, otherwise you might miss out. With the fine weather and summer coming, I'd be surprised if there are many deals to be had though.

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Hard-Drive said:

Thanks for the advice CAM.

What are your thoughts on these? I know you are a serious SUP'er, and these might not be your first choice, but I am a complete beginner and living miles from the sea, it would only get occasional use. I guess in terms of parallels that I understand, I sail an RS700 dinghy but if I was a newbie an RS Zest would get me out on the water a few times a year. I ride a carbon road bike and a titanium gravel bike, and although I'd not get excited about a £750 Decathlon special, it's fine for a new rider to get out these and enjoy themselves, and even possibly improve with some upgrades to wheels, saddle, tyres etc (as you might do in SUP world with a better paddle/pump etc)

What I'm trying to avoid is buying something that's totally hopeless/dangerous/difficult to use...a bit like those "dual suspension Shimano equipped" mountain (ahem...) bikes you see in Tesco for £80 where the box is marked "care-2 person lift", which are utterly useless from the get go and will just put off a new rider.


https://www.southwestpaddleboards.com/product-page...

https://www.southwestpaddleboards.com/product-page...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AQUA-SPIRIT-Inflatable-In...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AQUAPLANET-10ft-ALLROUND-...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06VXZG6H1?pd_rd_i=B06...

Any thoughts on these?

No problem.

My initial thoughts about the Amazon SUP's, is that they are all 3 fin set up's which should be fine if you're paddling on waves but not so great if you're on flat water (the 2 outer fins will create drag). One long centre fin will give you more stability and minimal drag. They will also track in a straight line much better than a multi-fin setup. Some boards will allow for the removal of the 2 outer fins which will give you some versatility (check if this can be done on the board of your choice). I think that's a compromise though unless you intend to use your SUP in different water conditions.

These Amazon boards all look like they're of a 'drop stitch' construction which is good but the fin boxes look like a unique (to these boards) design which might limit your choice if you want to upgrade your fin.

As I've said, personally I'd avoid buying a board that comes with lots of accessories. Will you ever actually use the seat? If you want a seat, you can always buy one separately.

I can't see much information regards to the construction of the other SUP's apart from saying that they're 'double walled' and 'double skinned'. I'm sure they'll be 'drop stitched' too but I think a phone call would be advisable to confirm.

All of these boards are quite short (apart from the Bluefin Cruise which gives you a choice of sizes) which will make them quite maneuverable and so good in waves. They will be slower than a longer board and will be less suitable for touring. The lack of strap down's and bungee tie-downs (D-rings) also makes them less suitable for longer touring, as you won't be able to carry as much equipment (obviously).

Check the weight limit with these boards relative to your own weight. I note that the Aquaplanet SUP has a max recommended weight of 100kg. It's not just about your weight but also the weight of anything you might carry on your SUP. For example, my partner will sometimes come out with me. She's not confident around water so will never go out alone but she's reasonably happy to sit on my SUP whilst I stand and paddle. She's not heavy and I'm not especially heavy but combined, we'd be well over 100kg.

I'm not sure else I can say. Just think about where you're going to use your SUP and what you're going to use it for.

Finally. Your point about bikes is interesting. I've been a serious Mountain Biker for years. I still use my Pace RC200 F6 (Chris King, Middleburn, Hope, XTR etc) which was built for me way back in 1997. It's still a fantastic bike but over the years, I've changed things like tyres, saddles etc. The technology on bikes has moved on considerably but my Pace still performs just as well as any modern stuff. Ask me if I'd even think about getting on a 'cheap' bike and I think you'll know the answer. Nothing against 'cheap' bikes but more about the use I get out of my bike.

[CharlieAlphaMike]

croyde said:

Interesting point you make about the 3 fin boards.

My £350 all in board has two small fixed outer fins as well as the bigger removable centre fin.

Try as I might to emulate the rowing actions seen on YouTube lessons, I still never seem to be able to go straight for long and have to keep changing sides with the paddle.

A pain as I'm much better and stronger on my right side.

Would maybe sawing the two outer fins off then help?

The 3 fin set up will definitely have an impact but whatever you do, don't saw them off. Are you sure you can't just remove them? If you can, try that and maybe buy a bigger centre fin because that will help too.

There is a knack to paddling on one side only whilst maintaining a straight line. I'm sure I added a few tips about how to do this at the start of this thread so maybe I can suggest you go back to the first few pages and check. It's all about the angle of your Paddle Blade, relative to the board and the pull from front to your side (but not too far behind you). Try and keep your Paddle as upright as possible too. Avoid an angle away from the vertical position. It means you have to lean your shoulders/arms over to your right or left dependent upon which side your paddling on. It's easy once you find the knack

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Hard-Drive said:

Thanks again for the comprehensive reply! That's really useful info. So to sum up you're saying "you pays yer money and takes yer choice" but these could be OK starter boards. Certainly not a case of "run away/don't waste your money". Thanks again.

Pace RC200? Absolutely love a Pace! Milled square tubes are sooooo cool!

My pleasure. If it helps you to get the most out of your SUP, I'm more than happy to help in any way I can

Pretty much. The construction of the SUP is what's important IMHO and if it's Dropstitched, I think you'll be fine. Don't forget about where you'll be using the board the most. In general terms, a shorter board will be more maneuverable in surf/waves but will probably be less stable (so until you're used to it, you might get wet ) Longer boards will generally be better for cruising (and they're normally faster), should be more stable and will allow you to carry more stuff.

For reference, all of my SUP'ing is done on the sea but will very little surf/waves. I will go out for up to 9 hours a day and will, as I've said before, very occasionally take my OH on the board. She's not confident around water and so she just sits there with her life vest (or whatever they're called - I never use one but I'm not suggesting that's the right thing to do - safety first and all that HSE stuff ). My SUP is a 14ft x 29" x 6" and with a volume of 340 litres. I'm not going to recommend the brand because I had a terrible experience when buying the board. The board is great, the supplier was awful

It might be a good idea to hire a SUP or two of varying shapes and sizes to see what suits you the best.

NB Inflate the SUP to the recommended pressure (I inflate mine slightly more than is recommended) otherwise you might have a saggy middle which is never a good idea Check to make sure you're using the pump the right way when you inflate. Most have a valve that will pump more air in when you start to inflate. It will be more difficult to inflate as more air goes in, at which point, you'll need to adjust the valve on the pump. I'm sure instructions on how to use the pump correctly will come with the board.

As for my Pace. Here's a link to something I posted last year. Scroll past my first post on 13th June to the 25th June where you'll find a full spec and some more pictures. I've since changed the saddle to a Spoon Charge and have just replaced the Renthal RC+130 bars (because they had split after an argument with a tree - the tree won, the bars lost and I most definitely lost )with a KCNC Bone and have added some Ergon GP3 bar ends (very comfortable thank you and a huge improvement on my old X-Lites):

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[CharlieAlphaMike]

With reference to where you stand on your SUP.

I'd agree that standing with both feet parallel to each other and a 'hip width' apart on the board, with your weight evenly distributed, is the easiest stance to use. This stance will give you good side-to-side stability but poor fore and aft stability. Better IMO to try and use a slightly staggered stance. Feet 'hip width' apart but with one foot an inch or two (not a side 'surfer' stance) behind the other. And keep your knees slightly bent.

I'd disagree that putting too much weight on one side will cause the board to 'edge' in that direction though. If you're surfing or windsurfing, then yes, you will 'steer' with your feet by shifting your weight (subtly) from one edge (rail) to the other. Weight on the Port side, you'll turn to the Port. Weight on the Starboard side, you'll turn to Starboard. This only happens at speed though (otherwise you'll use the sail to change direction by moving the sail fore to aft or bow to stern). On a SUP, unless you're riding a wave, you'll never be going fast enough to be able to steer on the rails and certainly never fast enough for you not to be able to control the direction of travel with good paddling technique.

Also, one of the benefits of a SUP, is that you can move around on the board. I personally prefer the staggered stance for normal paddling. Feet just behind the middle of the board. Not so far back to sink the back of the board (that creates unnecessary drag) but just enough to keep my weight off the front. I don't want to sink the front of the board either because that also creates problems. You'll never be going fast enough (unless you're on a big wave perhaps) to get to what's a called a 'planing' situation as you would when windsurfing.

You then have what's often referred to as the 'hybrid' stance where you go from a 'normal' stance with one foot positioned near the rail and then place your other foot in the centre of the board but approx 12" to 18" behind the 'rail' foot (so not quite a full 'surf' stance) and at a slight angle (toes pointing towards the opposite rail). This will allow you to do 'tail turns' where you sink the back of the board by shifting your weight onto the back foot whilst turning the board with your paddle. You keep your balance by controlling the side-to-side movement with your back foot and the fore and aft movement with your weight over your other foot. These turns are difficult to master but are much faster as a rule. BTW. If you put your weight on the Starboard side whilst also paddling on the Starboard side, for example, using this technique, the board will turn to the Port side.

To help with your own stability, if you are going to move around on your board, you can use your paddle as a balancing aid. Simply hold the paddle upright, in front of you, place the blade on the board, hold with paddle near the top of the shaft with both hands and put some of your weight (but not too much) onto the paddle. It will help you to maintain your balance whilst you move. You can also try 'hopping' from front to back with both feet at the same time. Little hops. Not big jumps. Or, try shuffling your feet backwards and forwards. I prefer this technique. Whatever you do, try not to make sudden movements or big steps as these will unsettle your board...and will result in you getting wet...probably

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Hard-Drive said:

Stunning bike, lovely stuff.

Found another potential SUP. Italian made not Chinese, double layer, drop stitch, a good size and just the one fin. On SportPursuit for £279, could this be the right one?

https://www.jbay.zone/jbz-products/kame-h2/?lang=e...

Thank you. I've been using my bike quite a lot this year so I haven't been out on my SUP yet. That needs to be addressed soon

The SUP you mentioned certainly looks like a good spec. It's the right construction and it seems good value. It's wide and has good volume so it should be quite stable. I'm sure it has 1 central fin only but one of the pictures suggests it might be another 3 fin set up. Maybe it's a pic of a different board? Check before you buy.

The paddle blade looks an odd shape so it will be interesting to see how that performs but if you get to the point where you start to really enjoy your SUP'ing, you'll probably want to upgrade the paddle anyway at a later date so I wouldn't worry too much about that. The pump is a 'double-action' pump which will help enormously when inflating the board. Just check that you're using the pump the right way. The bag looks good with a useful outer carrying facility (bungee).

There are plenty of 'D' rings and a good bungee tie-down (so you can carry a few items with you if you wish). It only has 1 centre carrying handle which on a 10ft(ish) SUP shouldn't be too much of a problem. If you find it is, you can always tie a rope to one or more of the 'D' rings to help you transport the board. I'm lucky to live next to the sea so I use a kayak trolley and have a rope tied around the 'D' ring at the back of the board. It makes life much easier.

What have you got to lose?

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Hard-Drive said:

It looks like the Honu and the Kame are actually exactly the same board, just with a different name. I'm pretty sure it's just a single fin too. Anyway, I've ordered it as it does seem to tick all of the boxes, and if I get into it I may well keep my eye open for a better CF paddle but I'm sure the supplied one will get me going just fine. I'm really looking forward to getting out on it when it arrives in July!

Once again many thanks for taking the time to post your advice, much appreciated, and I'll post some pics when it arrives!

Cheers

No problem. I hope it helped.

If you feel unstable (or fall in a lot) when you first go out on your board, try paddling from the kneeling position. Once you think you have your balance, you can then try standing up. And this might sound stupid but refer back to my advice in this thread about paddling techniques (it would have been at the start of the thread somewhere - first couple of pages) and then practice your technique on-land. Try to get a feel for what the paddle might do in the water.

Best of luck. Hope you enjoy your new SUP. For me, it's a very relaxing, peaceful way to spend some time and it's good for building upper body strength too. I look forward to seeing your pictures. I'll get some more up in a few weeks time when I finally get out on the water

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Last Tuesday was my first paddle of 2021 (5 hours) and yesterday (Sunday), I managed to get out for a short 3 hour paddle.

I'm fortunate that the sea is only a short walk from my house so I use a kayak trolley to wheel the board down to the sea. Please excuse the dry land pic. My waterproof camera wasn't charged

Hopefully I'll be out paddling again this Wednesday so if I remember to charge the camera, I might take a few more pics on the water

[CharlieAlphaMike]

DaveyBoyWonder said:

I had my first experience of paddle boarding yesterday after hiring a Jobe 10.6 on Ullswater. Wasn't sure what to expect but loved it so now I'm keeping half an eye open at SUPs. Assume like bikes, theres been a Covid tax added to them as I'm pretty sure when I had a quick glance 18 months or so ago they were loads cheaper than now!

Great to hear you enjoyed your first experience on a SUP. I know there was a massive shortage last year but haven't heard about too many problems with supplies so far this year. I've looked at a few SUP's on behalf of others and availability doesn't seem to be too much of an issue. The best advice, of course, is to make your choice and buy sooner rather than later because you never know...

As for Covid Tax. I'm sure it will be more difficult to negotiate a deal on a new SUP (always worth a try though) but I'm not aware of any significant price hikes.

Please take the time to read through this thread before you buy. I've put up quite a few hints and tips about what to look for when choosing a SUP.

Best of luck.

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Ayahuasca said:

GliderRider said:

I've just discovered I've been holding the paddle the wrong way round on my first two outings. I thought the handle looked an odd shape, but it's the blade that is deceptive. Apparently its shaped to stop you lifting water at the end of the stroke and therefore wasting energy.

How to hold a SUP paddlehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bp8wJSp7BzI

Yep, the blade is supposed to angle forward. The idea is to bury it in the water as far ahead as you can reach, plant it vertically, then pull the board to the blade, then lift the blade when it reaches your hips (do not let it go behind). Ideally the blade would not move through the water at all, but in practice of course it does.

Holding the paddle the wrong way is a common mistake. Check out Page 1 of this thread. My post on 8th August 2020 gives a few tips including how to hold the paddle correctly.

[CharlieAlphaMike]

I managed a couple of trips out on my SUP last week and promised to share a few pictures. Unfortunately, the quality of the images isn't great because it was a bit 'chopppy' so the waterproof camera case was covered in water. And I think it's difficult to take interesting pictures when out on a SUP. Prove me wrong by sharing some of your pictures

Anyway, I had a good 6 hour paddle in almost perfect conditions (for me) and came across an interesting sight. I've seen this before but it seems to have listed more to the Starboard side this year. I don't know if that's because it's now resting on the sea bed (it's shallow near the bank but shelves off steeply) or if it's about to keel over completely because it's actually sinking? I bet it was a lovely ship back in the day but apparently it has no engine and no one has been near it in years. Whoever owns it still pays the mooring fees (I know the person responsible for this harbour). I wonder how long it will be before it disappears completely.

Quite an imposing sight from my SUP, especially when I'm right under the Bow (I've sheltered from rainstorms underneath that Bow before).

Edited by CharlieAlphaMike on Saturday 26th June 11:14

[CharlieAlphaMike]

breamster said:

Quick question. I started paddle boarding about a year ago and really enjoying it. Mainly harbours. I'm not really interested in surf etc or crazy chop. Typical trip will be 6-10km.

My boards are both cheap inflatables, nothing special but I really enjoy them.

I've been offered a quality carbon paddle for a good price. Will I notice much difference when compared to my alloy shaft paddle that came with my boards? RRP of the fancy paddle is around £200. It's been very well used but is in good condition.

The simple answer is yes, you should notice a difference. Lighter paddles will reduce fatigue on your arms and shoulders which should allow you to paddle faster and further. Ideal if you're paddling longer distances. Check the size of the blade though. If it's a small blade (compared to the one you've been using), you'll still be working hard to move the SUP through the water.

Carbon paddles are also much stiffer than aluminium which leads to a much more efficient transfer of power from your arms to the paddle.

Some paddles advertised as 'carbon' aren't always 100% carbon. They are sometimes a mix of carbon and fibreglass for the shaft and often have a polymer (nylon) blade. Check before you buy. There's nothing wrong with these 'mixed' paddles. They'll still be lighter and stiffer than the standard aluminium paddles that come as standard with most SUP's.

Full carbon paddles (with carbon blades) might not be as durable as carbon paddles with a polymer blade so if it's a full carbon, treat it with some care. And if the paddle you're thinking of has been well used as you suggest it has, then check it over carefully before you buy it.

Out of interest, do you know the weight of the paddle in question?

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Disastrous said:

This was just before dawn on Loch Lochy during the Great Glen race last year:



This was a stormy Loch Carron a couple of weeks ago:



And this was a much sunnier Loch Torridon earlier that week:

Edited by Disastrous on Monday 28th June 21:27

Great pictures. Thanks for sharing

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Ayahuasca said:

There must be a trade-off between paddle blade size and weight, where greater size=more power but greater weight=more fatigue.

In theory you want the blade as big as possible so that you can barely move it through the water. In practice, in our OC6 boat the blades are pretty much the same size and similar to a SUP blade except that the shaft is shorter. The technique is similar too except you are sitting!

Paddling is a lot more technical than I expected - for example the 'return' - in an OC6 the stroke is D shaped, the vertical line is the pull through the water and the ) is the return in the air. in Dragon Boat, the stroke is I shaped, the return following the path of the pull except out of the water. I believe the DB stroke allows for faster cadence, but is more fatiguing. The mechanics of paddling are really interesting.

There is always a trade-off. When choosing a paddle for a SUP, you need to think about your own physical capabilities. How tall are you? How strong you are? etc But you also need to think about where you're going to use your SUP and what you're going to use it for.

As for the size of blade. The general rule is that a smaller blade is better for long-distance, high cadence work (smaller blade area makes it easier to pull the blade through the water). I would not want a blade so big, that I could hardly move it through the water but most of my paddling is long-distance. Having such a big blade would be exhausting to use. The shape of the blade makes a difference too. Tear-drop shaped blades give a more powerful stroke, whereas a Rectangular shaped blade will allow for a much more gentle stroke and allow for a higher cadence. There's always a compromise.

Choosing the right paddle is really important but as I've said before, a basic aluminium paddle will get you started. Once you get more experienced and once you've mastered the basic techniques of paddling, you can then think about upgrading. By which time, you should have a good idea about what sort of paddle will suit your SUP'ing.

In a boat, don't you paddle a full stroke? Placing the blade in the water as far in front of you as possible and taking it out of the water as far behind you as possible? If so, that's a different technique to paddling on a SUP. You are right, the mechanics of paddling are really interesting. I find that I'm always making small adjustments with my paddle and also my stance on the board. This way, I'm able to paddle on one side whilst still being able to move the board forward in a straight line. I'm quite lazy when it comes to which side I paddle (Starboard side) and have to make a conscious effort to change sides in order to avoid fatigue (my feet get numb if I don't move around ).

Anyway. My SUP is loaded. I'm off for a paddle. See you later

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Ayahuasca said:

Pushing the top end away is a no-no in OC6 paddling!

Reason is, if you push the top away, the bottom pivots around your lower hand in a much smaller arc than it would if you kept the top still and focused on pulling the bottom hand.

We are told to push the top hand down vertically to plant the blade, then pull with the bottom arm (keeping arm straight) using rotation, core, back and leg muscles, only bending the bottom arm when pulling the blade out. As an exercise for a few minutes at a time, we keep both arms absolutely straight all the time, just to get the feel.

Paddled 20km at the weekend in 42 degree heat in a bit over two hours.


On SUP, has anyone tried yoga on one? I have seen a few do it, looks good.

20km in 2 hours? That was in your OC6? Not on a SUP?

I've done a lot of Yoga in the past and I would imagine it would be great on a SUP because it would be so peaceful out at sea (or on a lake). Unfortunately, my SUP isn't ideal for Yoga. I'd need something a lot shorter and wider, otherwise I'd be getting very wet

[CharlieAlphaMike]

breamster said:

Some interesting info on paddling. A good friend who has alot of racing experience has offered to provide some tuition for me which I'm looking forward to. Not having had any guidance or lessons I'm sure I've got a lot of bad habits to resolve and these will probably make more of an impact than shiny equipment.

Well. I purchased the paddle. The weight is just over 600grams so about 400grams lighter than what I'm using at present. It is carbon blade as well as shaft which is my only reservation. I'm going to have to be a bit more careful with it. Hopefully if the weather is good I'll find out Friday how much difference it makes.

Just to add it isn't 100% carbon so hopefully a good trade off of lightness Vs toughness!

I've got a full Carbon paddle and an Aluminum shaft, Nylon blade paddle. The Nylon bladed paddle gets quite a lot of abuse (pushing off against jetties and sea beds etc). Looking at all the scuffs and scratches of the Nylon blade reminds me to be careful with the Carbon paddle

600g(ish) for a Carbon mix (I assume Carbon/Fibreglass?) paddle is light so it sounds like you've got a good compromise between weight and durability. I'd still be careful though, especially with the blade.

Incidentally, I've seen tape advertised somewhere, specifically designed to stick around the edges of the blade. I think it's supposed to protect the rails of the SUP, rather than the blade itself. The rails on my SUP are all scuffed already so I don't see any benefit in having it for my paddle. If anyone has experience with this 'blade tape', I'd be interested to get some feedback.

Edited by breamster on Wednesday 30th June 09:32

Edited by breamster on Wednesday 30th June 09:37

[CharlieAlphaMike]

breamster said:

Some interesting info on paddling. A good friend who has alot of racing experience has offered to provide some tuition for me which I'm looking forward to. Not having had any guidance or lessons I'm sure I've got a lot of bad habits to resolve and these will probably make more of an impact than shiny equipment.

Well. I purchased the paddle. The weight is just over 600grams so about 400grams lighter than what I'm using at present. It is carbon blade as well as shaft which is my only reservation. I'm going to have to be a bit more careful with it. Hopefully if the weather is good I'll find out Friday how much difference it makes.

Just to add it isn't 100% carbon so hopefully a good trade off of lightness Vs toughness!

Edited by breamster on Wednesday 30th June 09:32

Edited by breamster on Wednesday 30th June 09:37

I've got a full Carbon paddle and an Aluminum shaft, Nylon blade paddle. The Nylon bladed paddle has had quite a lot of abuse (pushing off against jetties and sea beds etc). Looking at all the scuffs and scratches of the Nylon blade reminds me to be careful with the Carbon paddle

600g(ish) for a Carbon mix (I assume Carbon/Fibreglass?) paddle is light so it sounds like you've got a good compromise between weight and durability. I'd still be careful though, especially with the blade.

Incidentally, I've seen tape advertised somewhere, specifically designed to stick around the edges of the blade. I think it's supposed to protect the rails of the SUP, rather than the blade itself. The rails on my SUP are all scuffed already so I don't see any benefit in having it for my paddle. If anyone has experience with this 'blade tape', I'd be interested to get some feedback.

[CharlieAlphaMike]

If anyone is still thinking about buying a SUP, I've been casually browsing the internet and I've seen some great deals. Given the time of year, I've been surprised at what sort of discounts are available. Might be the perfect time to take the plunge (pun intended) What's stopping you?

[CharlieAlphaMike]

croyde said:

What are the advantages of a solid board vs an inflatable?

On the water.

I have an inflatable so realise the benefit of space saving but I do leave it inflated and in the garage and transport it on the roof rack.

Thus I could own a solid board.

As you've said, one of the big benefits of an iSUP is space-saving and transportation. My iSUP is a 14ft board but it packs (along with a 3 piece paddle, fin, leash etc) into a bag that can be wheeled or carried on my back like a rucksack; they're generally lighter than their Rigid equivalents. It also goes into the boot of my car easily and can be stored out of the way during winter without taking up too much space. During the summer months, when I'm using the board a lot, I leave it inflated and stored in my garage. I then 'wheel it' down the sea using a Kayak trolley board. But I like to explore other areas so it's easy to pack it into the car when I fancy a change of scenery. Best of both worlds

Having said that, it would be an absolute pain to keep having to inflate/deflate my board every time I wanted to use it, especially as a regular SUP'er. If I had to drive to a location before I could get on the water, I think it might be easier to strap a Rigid SUP onto a roof rack. And packing a still wet inflatable into the car could become quite unpleasant after a while. But, an inflatable can be strapped to a roof rack as you mentioned. Best of both worlds again

iSUP's are less prone to damage which might surprise some people. Hit a rock with a Rigid SUP for example and there's the chance that you could chip, crack or completely shatter the board which will probably require a professional and costly repair. With an inflatable, it will probably just 'bounce' off the rock. Inflatables can puncture of course but you'll probably just need a patch for a simple DIY repair. Most iSUP's come with repair kits but you can buy them online if you need one.

Technology has improved over the years and my iSUP actually feels quite rigid underfoot. I inflate it to 18 - 20 psi. If I lie down on the board (for a rest sometimes), I can feel some flex if the sea is choppy but not much. I think it's quite forgiving underfoot though (cushioned almost) so it feels quite comfortable on a long 6 hour+ paddle.

There are limitations on how much 'shape' can be built into an iSUP. Very pointy Bows and shapely Sterns are out. You can shape the Decks on Rigid boards too (more difficult and limited with an Inflatable). I guess you could argue that Rigid's are more stylish to look at because of the ability to shape the design. Look at some of the beautiful hand crafted wooden SUP's

For out and out performance, I think Rigid SUP's still have the edge, especially in surf/waves, due to their...errr...rigidity! Rails can be shaped much better on a Rigid too so they should be faster through the water. If you're a competitive SUP'er, this might be an important consideration.

Hope this helps. Personal choice based on your intended use will be the deciding factor though.

[CharlieAlphaMike]

Hard-Drive said:

Well, my SportPursuit iSUP finally arrived and I’m really pleased with it! Having never been anywhere near a SUP before I’m amazed just how rigid it feels at the recommended 15psi. I’m now really looking forward to my first go, and it’s going to be a fab thing to have on the big boat for paddling around an anchorage.

I was surprised what an effort it was to blow up though…I definitely want an electric pump. Any recommendations?

Here it is…





]

Congratulations. That's a nice looking board. I see it has a Tail Kick Pad which will be great for doing Tail Sink Turns...practice will make perfect

I'll be interested to hear how you get on with that paddle. It does look like a very odd-shaped blade If you take to SUP'ing, you'll probably upgrade the paddle anyway at some point as I've discussed somewhere else in this thread.

With regard to how rigid it feels. I've said before that technology has really moved on and Drop Stitch construction is really good. Have you been on the water yet? You might find it a little less rigid when you do, especially in waves but not too much. I would suggest you could get at least another 1psi of pressure into the board if you feel it lacks some rigidity when you're paddling. My SUP manufacturer recommends 18psi but state that the board can be inflated to a max of 24psi. I opt for something around 18 to 20psi.

Personally, unless your inflating/deflating your SUP on a very regular basis, I see no need for an electric pump. Just check that you're using the hand pump in the right way. I can see that yours is a single/double stroke pump. Look for a small screw-in cap at the top of the pump, near the handle. Make sure this cap is screwed in when you first start inflating the board. This will pump air into the board when you push the handle down and also when you pull the handle up (double action). You'll get a lot of air in and it won't be too strenuous. Once it gets harder to pump the handle, unscrew the cap so that you only pump air in on the downstroke. Do this for the last few psi. Some pumps might have a valve handle. It should tell you which way to turn the handle for single or double-action strokes.

I've never really bothered to check how long it takes to get my board fully inflated (it's a 14ft board) but I guess it's around 15 to 20 minutes. That will equate to around 10 to 15 minutes with the cap in (double action) and 5 minutes with the cap out (single action). I normally sit down when using the double-action and stand up with both feet on the base of the pump to keep it steady when using the single-action. If you're still struggling, whilst I can't recommend an electric pump, there are plenty available so I guess you get what you pay for. There are other hand pumps available too with a single/double/triple action twin-chamber set up. They'll get air in without too much strain I'm sure.

Edited by CharlieAlphaMike on Tuesday 6th July 19:30