Crossing an ocean without sails (but with a budget)

Crossing an ocean without sails (but with a budget)

Author
Discussion

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Sunday 16th April 2023
quotequote all
Apologies for delay in continuing our tale, no excuse other than socialising


Approaching the reef pass into Fulaga conditions couldnt have been better, flat water and a sunny day, so our entry was easy compared with our first visit.
Noooooooo ! The first thing I saw when we were in the lagoon was a mast, that meant another boat. Someone else brave or stupid enough to visit the furthest outreach of Fiji in cyclone season – damn, we were expecting it to ourselves. Our VHF radio burst into life, it was them welcoming us in, we said we were off to the village and would catch up later or the next day.
As we approached Mosquito/SevuSevu bay we could see activity on the beach by the boat shed (an old shack that the locals used to store equipment). It turns out the surprise visit was not to be and our passengers family had got wind of their impending arrival on LS.
We walked over the hill to the village and met the rest of their family (our host family) and visited the chief with our sevusevu. Technically (I believe) we didn’t have to do/give sevusevu again but the place is so magical and the people deserving of it we happily handed over a bundle of cava and $50.
We left the village and strolled back to our dinghy, we had decided to up anchor and get out of the bay before being overrun by mosquitos like last time. As soon as we got over to the other side of the lagoon our VHF crackled into life again, would we like to come over for drinks ? Is the Pope Catholic ?

OK, now I understand that there are all different types of cruisers out there doing it but we weren’t expecting the hard sell of pearl jewelry and electronics work that we got over a couple of drinks. They were a mid 30’s European couple who had been aboard for 9 years and their income was derived from those income streams and some magazine articles (from which I may have taken the hint and sent in the first few pages of this to a couple of NZ publishers).
Being a sailboat and the winds not being favourable it had taken them many weeks to get to Fulaga, zig zagging from island to island before arriving so hadn’t seen any other boats for a couple of months as they had left the main cruising areas before the mass migration of boats back to NZ and Aussie.
Anyway, we only waved at them a couple of times after that as they up anchored and left a couple of days later.
Hurrah ! Alone in paradise !

We moved to where they had been anchored and enjoyed the crystal clear 2m deep water, watching turtles playing and groups of squid/cuttlefish hanging around in the shade of LS. The locals never came out to this spot so we were naked most of the time, only putting rash shirts and shorts on for snorkelling or paddle boarding where the sun was going to burn the white bits.
It didn’t last long as a couple of days later the mast of a sailing cat came into view, with binoculars I could make out the name. ‘Better get dressed darling’ I called out, ‘it’s a kid boat’. I recognised the name and knew there were three small children onboard, so now it was paradise lost.
Actually we needn’t have worried, they went off to do Sevusevu and when they came back round they anchored on the other side of the lagoon, we met up every couple of days for a drink but our lives didn’t entwine.
Another few days and we headed over to anchor infront of the other village, we hadn’t visited before but knew Tu would be there with his family. We did the decent thing and took the chief some cava and Tu’s family some small gifts which all went down very well.
While over there we checked out the cyclone hole which is marked on most charts of the area, it looked capable of protecting us and a couple of other boats should something nasty blow in. It wasn’t just a safety zone though it was very beautiful so we anchored in there for a couple of nights and paddle boarded around looking for spots that we could back into and tie off to the mangroves.
Back over to the sandspit and as we were anchoring I really f**ked up. I had been lazy and was dragging my kayak around behind us whenever we moved within the lagoon. When we were anchoring Sonya radioed saying to reverse (as usual) which I did, we let the anchor settle and she asked me to go into reverse again, not thinking about where the kayak was I did and soon heard a terrible grinding noise and big thuds coming from under LS. Oh st, I killed the motors immediately as I knew what had happened. I ran down and sure enough the kayak was upside down between the hulls and wedged tight. I jumped over and had a look, not good, not good at all. The rope had gone round the starboard prop which had dragged the kayak down and underwater, the stainless carabiner I had used to attach the (worlds strongest) rope to the kayak had cut through the fibreglass drive shaft support – bo**ocks !
As mentioned before I’m not really a swimmer so Sonya attempted to free the rope but she couldn’t, time to put my skills/bravery to the test and also give our new Powerdive system a proper workout. I went down and managed to get the rope and carabiner out but the shaft support was destroyed underneath and fell away in one big piece. I went up to the surface (not far) and asked Sonya to fire up the motor in neutral, I then got her to put it into gear and watched the shaft and prop bounce up and down about an inch/25mm each way. Not good as we had 200 odd miles to cover back to the mainland for any chance of a repair. I got out and started thinking, how could I bodge this so we didn’t have to go back at 4 or 5 knots with only one motor ?
That afternoon I leapt back into the water with two aluminium sections, some tech screws and a screwdriver. I screwed these into a v shape on either side of the remaining support so the shaft couldn’t go more than about 25mm down from its normal position. I came back up and had another brainwave, I knew there was some webbing in a box full of ropes so grabbed that and some more screws. Back down and I screwed the webbing to the shaft support, pulling tight on the cutlass bearings that had been set loose by the fibreglass falling away – this was starting to look like it would work !
I used up both batteries on the Powerdive so was underwater for about 2 hours in total, lucky the water temp was 30C. Finally done I got Sonya to fire up the motor and put it into gear again, hurrah, hardly any movement but would it last to Suva ?
The next morning we pulled anchor and went for a chug around the lagoon then across into some deeper water and got up to 8 knots, apart from a little more vibration than usual it appeared to be fine. Great, we don’t have to rush off now !
After three amazing weeks we found our passengers and told them we were starting to look for a weather window to leave, it was looking good to go in a few days time but we couldn’t confirm to them until the evening before we left in case forecast changed. They said they would be ready and late notice was no problem, Tu would come over each evening in a long boat to check.
The forecast remained good so after almost four weeks in paradise we loaded them and their belongings (plus a 20hp Suzuki outboard, a box of bananas, a sack of coconuts and another full of smoked fish and crabs) onboard and set off at 7.30am into very calm looking seas. Only 24 hours (and 2 mahimahi) later we pulled into Suva where we said our goodbyes, obv we got stuck into the cheap beer at the RSYC as we could and I patted myself on the back for the amazing job I had done sorting the driveshaft !
We didn’t even try for a berth on the marina pontoon this time as we were only going to reprovision and move on so we clipped on to a mooring ball just outside.
From memory we stayed a couple of days as we had to make several trips into town by taxi, food, alcohol, electrical items, paint, fishing stuff wouldn’t have all fitted in one car and definitely not all into our dinghy to get back to LS.

McGee_22

6,727 posts

180 months

Sunday 16th April 2023
quotequote all
Tuna every day - tough life!

Loving your tales - please keep posting.

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Sunday 16th April 2023
quotequote all
McGee_22 said:
Tuna every day - tough life!

Loving your tales - please keep posting.
It sounds ideal until it happens !
I just want a wahoo for Kokoda and then to crumb !

We do have meat onboard (frozen) but obv would rather eat fresh fish when we have it but ......
We are at Musket at the moment so I went ashore and bought a frozen chicken. Defrosted/brined in sea water then roasted on bbq with veg and couscous.
Chances of a wahoo between here and Vuda next week are slim but lines will be in !

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Wednesday 19th April 2023
quotequote all
Power update

Another couple of days of cloud cover left us on 70ish% at 3pm so I fired up the genset and switched on the 60a charger (I really need a 100a but couldnt find one at the time), after 45 mins the genset stopped producing elec so I switched it off to let it cool down.
6.30pm and we were back onboard after Margarita Monday so I fired up genset and switched on charger, boiled kettle, used induction hob and generally threw volts around the place.
Hmm, it only lasted 30 mins this time.

Yesterday we dinghied ashore and taxied into Lautoka for some provisions and I wanted some engine coolant as thats something that will get changed before we leave for Tonga.
I spotted an auto parts shop and asked our driver to stop, as luck would have it he parked outside Generator Parts Supplies so I popped in.
I had self diagnosed the genset issue as being the Automatic Voltage Regulator (AVR) and had ordered a couple of them in NZ that my wife would bring back when she is there in May but if they had one here ......

As always I know there is a language/accent barrier but it took four people and a phone call to work out what a generic AVR, 140mm between mounting holes, for a 5500W diesel genset was and where.
It appeared on the counter, looked like the part it was replacing (from my cloudy memory) so I asked how much.
The two in NZ were $35 each , would you like to guess the Fiji price ?

We motored back to Musket yesterday so power levels were up plus it was raining so I didnt fancy working in the front locker with the hatch closed. Up bright and early this morning I removed the old AVR (after taking pics of position and wiring) and set about connecting the plugs on the new unit.
I am def not the best electrician/mechanic/ and have the patience of an angry pitbull so, of course, there was swearing and I managed to stab myself in the thumb with a pointy thing whilst trying to reuse a connector.
At 9am it was done, I pushed (with much effort) all170kg of generator into a position that I could hook up the exhaust and fired her up.
Running beautifully I switched on the elec power and watched the display light up with 244v and 51hz, OK thats not bad I can live with that I thought but maybe I should Google how to adjust it.
I neednt have worried as 10 seconds later it was 240v at 50hz, presumably thats the Auto part of AVR - duh !

At 10.30am I switched it off and it was still running/producing power at 240/50 so I am now sat here patting myself on the back and polishing my medals for doing such an incredible job.
I'm even planning on installing a fan/blower somewhere in the locker to increase the life of this AVR even though I will have two spares soon.

Did I mention before that I bought a wind generator ?
Our friends with the engine issues (currently on the hard at Vuda with only half the parts required) were having a clear out and had never used it.
I have had a stainless tube added to the dinghy arch for it and will run cabling, etc while S is in NZ then get a sparky to do the final wire up/switch on as I dont want to toast my lithiums.
Actually cant finish the job until she is back as she is bringing a fuse holder and fuse to match the ones used on our solar mppt's.
So hopefully that will reduce further the genset run time, although 109hrs in over a year as liveaboards is pretty damn good I think.
Our friends on Waikamouri (65ft trawler style launch) run theirs for at least 3 hours a day and a sailing cat that we know have theirs on almost continually as they have aircon !

Until the next time .....

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Wednesday 19th April 2023
quotequote all


Dropped off by a local guy we know at 7am on his way home from a night's fishing and diving

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Sunday 23rd April 2023
quotequote all
The two in NZ were $35 each , would you like to guess the Fiji price ?

No one did but I feel compelled to tell you, $190FJD plus VAT !!!!!
But it fixed the problem so........... priceless

McGee_22

6,727 posts

180 months

Sunday 23rd April 2023
quotequote all
Peace of mind when on an Ocean - priceless.

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Sunday 30th April 2023
quotequote all
I'm currently solo on LS, S has gone back to NZ (again) as, unfortunately, a very good friend has had some awful health news and we needed a few things before leaving for Tonga that are not available here.

The anchorage I was in turned into a shocker the day she left so I had the choice of going into the marina or heading off somewhere else for a week.

I chose to head off and set about lifting the anchor, easy with a windlass you would think but someone has to be at the chain locker as it comes in to distribute the chain as its not very deep and the chain just piles up otherwise . So I was at the front using windlass remote then running up to the flybridge to put her into gear then run back down, back up to take out of gear, etc, etc. Luckily not tripping and breaking a leg or falling overboard in the process.

I chose good old Musket for my weeks solo holiday but chose the slightly longer route so I could put the lines in the water but there were no bites.

Yesterday I spent the whole day running cables (think average quality jump leads) from the dinghy arch, across hardtop, into salon and through to battery bank in preparation for windgen to go on.
What a c**t of a job that was !

When S is back I should be able to finish the job as she has the correct fuse holder, fuse and Anderson plugs in her luggage .

Today I am going to attempt to mount a 'whale tail' to our 15hp Yamaha outboard and if that fails (prob should be done with motor off and on a stable surface) I will be polishing stainless steel.

Have fun everybody

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Monday 1st May 2023
quotequote all
Whale tail mounted !
I really should have done it ashore instead of while it was hanging from dinghy arch, trying to drill holes whilst the wake of longboats was coming through made it tricky.

New lures rigged with ss trace ready to go and hooks replaced on a couple of old lures.

Just done my GST (VAT) and tax returns now its time to go kayaking



ETA for those that think this is a glamorous lifestyle I have just hand sanded the yellow calcium build up from both composting loos

Edited by NNK on Monday 1st May 23:01

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Friday 5th May 2023
quotequote all
I appear to be unable to post the next part , keeps saying Forbidden 403.
I have searched for any swear words but there are none, any ideas ?

Sebo

2,167 posts

227 months

Friday 5th May 2023
quotequote all
Can't help with the posting issues but I wanted to reply and say that I love reading the updates - I never post anything as I have nothing useful to say. I know nothing about boats / sailing etc but I'm a big fan of reading round the world blogs, mostly motorbike or cycling ones but I am really enjoying your updated. Thank you and good luck.

rustyuk

4,585 posts

212 months

Saturday 6th May 2023
quotequote all
Same here, I read a couple of blogs and this is one of them.

I wouldn't be surprised if this thread is one of the most read topics on PH.

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Monday 8th May 2023
quotequote all
Testing

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Monday 8th May 2023
quotequote all
December 2022

We were unsure of our plan but knew we wanted to get away from Suva so anchor was up at 6.45am and we were off again. We plodded on for most of the day and pulled into Cuvu harbour around 8 hours later, there are no notes in the log book so there couldn’t have been any fish on the way – I find that hard to believe and think S may have been slacking on the notes.

No point hanging around here without friends so another early start and back round to Musket, the tracks on our chartplotter in and out are like a spiders web we’ve been there so many times.

Sundowners at the Island Bar and talk turned to Xmas plans, there was a seafood buffet at Musket Resort or we could have use of the bbq’s at the bar and do our own thing (away from the resort guests). We were easy either way and said we would make the call closer to the time. My only immediate thought was where to go for the next couple of weeks and did anyone else want to tag along.
A few of us decided to head over to Mana, as mentioned before it’s a lovely spot with very welcoming locals at the bar/backpackers.
We stayed for a week, snorkelling, lounging, etc.(I’m getting very good at doing next to nothing some days ) but then it was time to head in somewhere for provisions, Denarau won the toss and off we went.

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Monday 8th May 2023
quotequote all
Of course we had a night out in the busy port town, it probably started in the afternoon at Lulu Bar drinking Capiroskas (it normally does).
We bar crawled until we got to Indigo, a very nice Indian restaurant, and were shown to a table overlooking the water.
We were enjoying the bottle of red that had appeared when Sonya said “There’s a woman at the table two behind who looks just like your ex”. As I turned to look I heard her voice asking someone at another table if they would mind taking a pic, I stood and went over, “I could have taken that for you” and held out my hand for her boyfriend/partner/whatever to shake which he did. My ex then shook my hand and I could tell that she had been drinking more than we had – she didn’t know who I was !

I went back to my table with a big smile on my face and Sonya was trying to suppress hers, “How did that go” she asked and I thought she was going to wet herself when I said she hadn’t recognised me. I messaged my kids to tell them I had just bumped into their mother and what a small world it is. My daughter came back with a screen shot of the conversation she was having with her mum. Apparently she was very embarrassed that she hadn’t clicked it was me when I walked over and it was only when I opened my mouth she realised.

Xmas and NY went by in a blur of food and drink. We had put LS on the marina dock at Musket and when it was announced that the Island Bar wouldn’t be opening on NYE as they needed all staff at the resort we decided to be hosts – oh dear. At one point I think there were about 50 people onboard with others on the dock waiting for a gap. Things started to quieten at midnight then about 20 people who were staying at a house on the island turned up, they knew one of the other boaties who had invited them along ! At 4am I staggered through our boat and fell into a crumpled heap next to S. For weeks/months after we were bumping into people who would thank us for a great NYE party, we had no idea who half these people were !

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Monday 8th May 2023
quotequote all
I forgot to mention before that I had spoken to Vuda marina some time in early December and organised for LS to be hauled out on Monday 9th January for fibreglass repairs, anti foul and some other bits and pieces. We motored over to Vuda on the Friday before haulout and in the office I got the bad news. The new haulout trailer hadn’t arrived yet so we were being hauled on the old one which I had been told to avoid at all costs (see early pages for pics). I think I detailed it before but I will just confirm that it was bloody frightening to see and hear.

Now I didn’t know anyone that had had any fibreglass repairs done at Vuda so was shopping blind when it came to choosing a contractor for the job. I had the list of approved contractors from the marina and, as luck would have it, the first guy I spoke to had told me they could do all the work and would pencil us in for the whole week. The antifoul was a fixed price per foot for sanding, tidying and two coats of (supplied by us) paint.
Well I thoroughly recommend Prasads General Marine Services who did an outstanding job on all of the works and were very competitive with prices. So much so that I asked Sachin (boss) to give me an idea of the price for a hardtop to replace our shade sail.
He was reluctant at first saying it was quite a lot of work to prepare such a quote. I explained that I just needed a ball park figure for it to see if it would fit in our budget and he could then firm it up and I would be happy to pay for his time to quote if it was looking promising.
It was a great quote and you all know from previous posts/pics that we had it done. The price did increase a little half way through the build but I believe it to be a genuine increase in material and labour time and not just a try on to squeeze some more $$ out of us. Another boat we sometimes hang out with (Moxie, 5 Kiwis Afloat) have just had one done by the same guys after seeing ours and theirs was a similar price but a third of the size ! Admittedly Moxie is a lot flasher than LS so the workmanship/paint had to go up a notch.

Sonya took the opportunity to bugger off to NZ to visit family and do some work while LS was on the hard. Obviously I rib her about never hanging around when there is work to be done but it would be a nightmare both of us being onboard while so much was going on.

Everything went according to plan until we were relaunched, the guy in the water was shouting up that no water was coming through the exhausts so I switched off both motors and pulled up hatches. I got the starboard motor circulating quite quickly just by filling the raw water strainer with tap water which created enough suction/draw to continue.
Starboard just would not run so we launched and were helped into place on the dock with a longboat and 40hp Yamaha ! Sachin came out that afternoon and helped me work through some things, we reseated the new impeller and tried it again (after filling hoses and strainer) – hurrah , plenty of flow now.

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Monday 8th May 2023
quotequote all
All I had to do now was pay the bill for haulout/hardstand and wait for S to get back.
Although contractors in Fiji are priced competitively there is, apparently, an unwritten rule that marinas must charge the same or more as their equivalent in NZ or Australia.
I felt violated when I left the Vuda office.

SunsetZed

2,257 posts

171 months

Tuesday 9th May 2023
quotequote all
Just stumbled across this thread and read the whole thing very enviously. Great inspiration for the future though as Fiji is my favourite country that I've ever been to.

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Wednesday 10th May 2023
quotequote all
Our quiet paradise will soon be packed again !
Weather windows are opening up for those waiting in NZ and Oz to head to the islands.
Boats have been gathering at the major departure ports since the end of April and are starting to leave after being clobbered with stormy weather.
Many will be doing the pacific circuit as all countries are open after Covid so thats Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu, New Cal, home by the magical 31 October as you cannot get insurance after that due to cyclone season.

When we get to Tonga towards the end of July there will likely only be some hardcore game fishers and a few who have fallen in love with the place and have decided to leave another country off their schedule this year.
However, our friends on the 65' launch Waikamouri have now confirmed they are coming with us




Edited by NNK on Wednesday 10th May 20:35

NNK

Original Poster:

1,144 posts

200 months

Thursday 11th May 2023
quotequote all
Oh dear, some of the boats that have left NZ in the last couple of days have hit some really bad weather.
Gusts of 60 knots have been recorded !!!

Some friends on a beautiful 60' Benetteau were in the middle of 40+ knot storm when they lost their sutopilot and the boat did a 180 (trying to take them home ??), shortly after that they realised the transom door had fallen down and sea water was trying to wash out their dinghy, outboard, jerry cans, etc, etc.
That would have been a hell of a wake up call as it was noticed at 3am !