Stuka in winter camo' pics?
Discussion
Eric Mc said:
Are you referring to Brett Green?
He's actually a really nice chap. I met him a couple of times at some of the Telford shows. He's an Aussie who runs the Hyperscale website and has written a number of books for Osprey and some other publishers.
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh Nooooooooooooooooooooooo. He's actually a really nice chap. I met him a couple of times at some of the Telford shows. He's an Aussie who runs the Hyperscale website and has written a number of books for Osprey and some other publishers.
All that councelling down the pan.
dr_gn said:
T89 Callan said:
dr_gn said:
T89 Callan said:
Cheers man, I really like this one. This is what I am going to aim for.
The pictures show that each one was definately a product of it's own crew and unique.
Cotton bud with some thinned white paint on it? The pictures show that each one was definately a product of it's own crew and unique.
dr_gn said:
Edited by T89 Callan on Monday 4th January 20:03
Or a tiny sponge? I got one from Hobbycraft for wiping excess wash off a model. I think it was in the watercolour/painting equipment section.
EDIT : I'd be inclined to add the whitewash after the decal stage, but before applying a dark wash to bring out the panel lines, possibly with some post-shading (using thinned Tamiya Smoke), and exhuast staining etc. I think if you apply the white as a final touch, it would look wrong. I'd also leave any canopy masking in place before doing it. BTW I've never tried post-shading, but the rebuilt Mustang on Britmodeller (mentioned in my Spitfire rebuild thread) looks good IMO, and would make the whitewash look a bit more subtle.
Edited by dr_gn on Monday 4th January 21:54
It will be stickers - whitewash - finished
A wash is just thinned pigment capillaried or wiped into the panel lines and control surface breaks (assuming your model has recessed lines), then any excess wiped off the main surfaces of the model. It then leaves the panel lines darker than the rest of the model. It can look really good, but if overdone it looks crap. I have been using Promodeller dark and light washes (can be mixed), which is water soluble, so if you get it wrong you can just rinse it off. Brush or airbrush a coat of Johnson's Klear onto the model before you try it (stops the wash staining/soaking into any matt or satin paint). After the wash, you then coat with whatever varnish you prefer, and it's done.
This, IMO is slightly overdone, but this model has had a panel line wash:
Here is some info:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwHP6Tj13DE
There is loads of stuff on YouTube about weathering models, much of it presented by a very very scary looking man.
I'd try and then it would go wrong, and then I would try to fix it and make it worse and then I would smash it up and be left with nothing.
T89 Callan said:
dr_gn said:
T89 Callan said:
dr_gn said:
T89 Callan said:
Cheers man, I really like this one. This is what I am going to aim for.
The pictures show that each one was definately a product of it's own crew and unique.
Cotton bud with some thinned white paint on it? The pictures show that each one was definately a product of it's own crew and unique.
dr_gn said:
Edited by T89 Callan on Monday 4th January 20:03
Or a tiny sponge? I got one from Hobbycraft for wiping excess wash off a model. I think it was in the watercolour/painting equipment section.
EDIT : I'd be inclined to add the whitewash after the decal stage, but before applying a dark wash to bring out the panel lines, possibly with some post-shading (using thinned Tamiya Smoke), and exhuast staining etc. I think if you apply the white as a final touch, it would look wrong. I'd also leave any canopy masking in place before doing it. BTW I've never tried post-shading, but the rebuilt Mustang on Britmodeller (mentioned in my Spitfire rebuild thread) looks good IMO, and would make the whitewash look a bit more subtle.
Edited by dr_gn on Monday 4th January 21:54
It will be stickers - whitewash - finished
A wash is just thinned pigment capillaried or wiped into the panel lines and control surface breaks (assuming your model has recessed lines), then any excess wiped off the main surfaces of the model. It then leaves the panel lines darker than the rest of the model. It can look really good, but if overdone it looks crap. I have been using Promodeller dark and light washes (can be mixed), which is water soluble, so if you get it wrong you can just rinse it off. Brush or airbrush a coat of Johnson's Klear onto the model before you try it (stops the wash staining/soaking into any matt or satin paint). After the wash, you then coat with whatever varnish you prefer, and it's done.
This, IMO is slightly overdone, but this model has had a panel line wash:
Here is some info:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwHP6Tj13DE
There is loads of stuff on YouTube about weathering models, much of it presented by a very very scary looking man.
There is a review of an Airfix Spitfire in the December "Model Airplane International". The guy complains about the deep panel lines 'looking like a poor diecast model', so what does he do? Instead of just leaving them, he goes and fills them with a pure black wash. The finished model looks ridiculous, but I guess he just couldn't help himself becasue it's the 'done thing' these days.
Eric Mc said:
Which kit are you building, the old Revell one or the newer Hasegawa?
I'm doing the Revell D-1 to 5 kit, I might do a Hasegawa G-2 at a later date now that I know where I stand with 1/32nd Stuka's I certainly won't be using Tamiya or Revell Acrylic paint again though, it's fking rubbish.
T89 Callan said:
Eric Mc said:
Which kit are you building, the old Revell one or the newer Hasegawa?
I'm doing the Revell D-1 to 5 kit, I might do a Hasegawa G-2 at a later date now that I know where I stand with 1/32nd Stuka's I certainly won't be using Tamiya or Revell Acrylic paint again though, it's fking rubbish.
dr_gn said:
T89 Callan said:
Eric Mc said:
Which kit are you building, the old Revell one or the newer Hasegawa?
I'm doing the Revell D-1 to 5 kit, I might do a Hasegawa G-2 at a later date now that I know where I stand with 1/32nd Stuka's I certainly won't be using Tamiya or Revell Acrylic paint again though, it's fking rubbish.
T89 Callan said:
Well I don't. And it doesn't say anywhere on the pot that it's for an airbrush? Would have been nice if it said so I wouldn't have bought it.
Tamiya paint in the jar is formulated for brush use and I've used it successfully in small areas for some 20 years, however my skill in using acrylics in large areas leaves something to be desired with a hairy stick but suitably thinned they do seem to go on fairy well using an airbrush (as dr_gn says) and several thin coats.Personally I've always been a Humbrol Enamels person, they seem to suit my painting and airbrushing.
DieselGriff said:
T89 Callan said:
Well I don't. And it doesn't say anywhere on the pot that it's for an airbrush? Would have been nice if it said so I wouldn't have bought it.
Tamiya paint in the jar is formulated for brush use and I've used it successfully in small areas for some 20 years, however my skill in using acrylics in large areas leaves something to be desired with a hairy stick but suitably thinned they do seem to go on fairy well using an airbrush (as dr_gn says) and several thin coats.Personally I've always been a Humbrol Enamels person, they seem to suit my painting and airbrushing.
I have also had no luck with brushing larger areas - they dry too fast, and sometimes "lift off" if you try to overlap brush strokes. I still use enamels for smaller parts sometimes, although so far I've not had to do much detailed work becasue I've not really modelled an undercarriage, engine or cockpit to any extent recently.
I also think that acrylics might be safer for spraying, although this could well be rubbish.
I would echo what most have said -
large areas to brush, use enamels. If using acrylics - stick to an airbrush.
However, acrylics are fine for brush painting fine detials.
Regarding harmfulness, acrylics are generally benign but some of the acrylic thinners are a bit potent. At the Telford show a few months ago I was watching a chap demonstrate airbrush techniques and he was using Mr Color paints and thinners. After about 20 minutes of spraying he started to cough and his eyes began to be irritated.
I've had no problems with my favourites, Xtrarcrylic paint and thinners.
large areas to brush, use enamels. If using acrylics - stick to an airbrush.
However, acrylics are fine for brush painting fine detials.
Regarding harmfulness, acrylics are generally benign but some of the acrylic thinners are a bit potent. At the Telford show a few months ago I was watching a chap demonstrate airbrush techniques and he was using Mr Color paints and thinners. After about 20 minutes of spraying he started to cough and his eyes began to be irritated.
I've had no problems with my favourites, Xtrarcrylic paint and thinners.
Eric Mc said:
I would echo what most have said -
large areas to brush, use enamels. If using acrylics - stick to an airbrush.
However, acrylics are fine for brush painting fine detials.
Regarding harmfulness, acrylics are generally benign but some of the acrylic thinners are a bit potent. At the Telford show a few months ago I was watching a chap demonstrate airbrush techniques and he was using Mr Color paints and thinners. After about 20 minutes of spraying he started to cough and his eyes began to be irritated.
I've had no problems with my favourites, Xtrarcrylic paint and thinners.
You already know my strong recommendation of wearing a respirator when spraying any paint - even from a can. I had enough of the chest pains thanks very much.large areas to brush, use enamels. If using acrylics - stick to an airbrush.
However, acrylics are fine for brush painting fine detials.
Regarding harmfulness, acrylics are generally benign but some of the acrylic thinners are a bit potent. At the Telford show a few months ago I was watching a chap demonstrate airbrush techniques and he was using Mr Color paints and thinners. After about 20 minutes of spraying he started to cough and his eyes began to be irritated.
I've had no problems with my favourites, Xtrarcrylic paint and thinners.
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