Quick Suzuki SJ Propshaft question.

[Tangent Police]

Hello,

My back 410 prop (1986) has shat itself. However, I have an identical length prop (skinny) from an LJ, does anyone know if they are interchangable?

[SystemParanoia]

climb under and have a go!

[Tangent Police]

I will tomorrow, but I bet it doesn't.

[SystemParanoia]

not to worry, ill be crawling under mine tomorrow too

[Tangent Police]

Double fk it. They are totally different.

The rebuild kits are bloody pricey as well. GRRRRRRR!

[SystemParanoia]

[Tangent Police]

In the meantime I had a stroke of genius. The nose bit of the propshaft was the bit that was buggered and allthough the shafts are different, you'd think the end bits were the same?!?!?! Surely, it would be cheaper.....

Turned out it was. I pulled the end off an old 413 prop and stuffed it in the other end of my 410 one. Fits

[SystemParanoia]

awesome!!

[SystemParanoia]

what tools did you need to take the end of the prop off ?

i need to add a double cardan joint to my rear prop as it keeps popping out... annoyingly


like this

Edited by SystemParanoia on Thursday 7th January 22:40

[Tangent Police]

SystemParanoia said:

what tools did you need to take the end of the prop off ?

i need to add a double cardan joint to my rear prop as it keeps popping out... annoyingly


like this

Edited by SystemParanoia on Thursday 7th January 22:40

Yours is a different animal and like my gearbox/transfer box prop. Mine has 2 flanges and is like 2 of your diff ends. The splined bit is in the middle of the shaft.

If you need to replace a UJ, you need a pair of needle nose pliers, a punch, vice and hammer.

You get the kit which is a X with each end of the X having a U filled with needle rollers. These usually come apart and then the thing wears/vibrates.

Take the prop off. Remove all of the circlips (clean it up first so you can remove them! ) and line up one of the ends =O in the vice. Get your punch and tt the middle bit of the 0 as hard as possible, it will go from being 0==0 to 0=0D where D is a bearing up, remove the bearing cup so it is like 0=0= and then whack it the other way so the other D pops out. Do the same with the other axis of the joint and then you will be able to free the x.

To put it back in you will have your 2 halves of the joint. Pull the ends off your X so your have an x and 4 D's. Whack a D into the ==0 and put the x in. Put the circlip in the D side and then with the x in the cup (D) tap the other cap in and put the circlip in. Do the same with the other side.

Done.

It's a bugger and pretty intuitive.

NB:- You can get 23mm cups or 25mm cups, the 25's have the circlips on the outside. I THINK the 23 has them on the inside of the joint. In the middle of the + rather than on the edges of the cups. There are many ways of ordering the wrong joint.

A UJ kit is about £25 and when you have the right one, it will take about 30 mins of buggering around to fit. Putting it on and taking it off is pretty slick. You get used to it.