Mechanic Wanted
Discussion
fieldl said:
I'll do it. Dab hand with gaffer tape, lump hammer, stanley knife and diagnosing fatal engine failures.
How do I apply
Have you bought a car yet?
:lol: Yes gaffer tape will fix virtually anything these days! Did you get another engine for the BM?How do I apply
Have you bought a car yet?
Yes - we agreed to buy a Clio Cup yesterday, should be picking it up/being delivered next week
Ben - we're based in Yorkshire with races predominantly at Croft, but also Cadwell, Oulton and Knockhill.
Cheers
Rich
Cheers Steve
emails sent!
Lee - I've never quite worked out how to post pics on here! Doh!
It's your standard Clio Cup Car, ex championship winning, all updates to 2006, Mk2 version, few bits and pieces with it.
When are you and Nige next testing? We'll have to get a few dates in the diary!
Cheers
R
emails sent!
Lee - I've never quite worked out how to post pics on here! Doh!
It's your standard Clio Cup Car, ex championship winning, all updates to 2006, Mk2 version, few bits and pieces with it.
When are you and Nige next testing? We'll have to get a few dates in the diary!
Cheers
R
Hi Rich,
A clio cup car should be interesting in class c!
Have you got an idea of lap times round croft in one of those?
WRT your question. I have to say after my first season in NSSCC the paddock camaraderie is possibly the best in the country.
I've had fellow competitors rebuilding my car to get me back out a few times, as have most other people in the paddock.
12 guys round a car trying to get it into the race is VERY common, and newcomers are probably helped a little more than most (if possible!)
You won't believe it until you see it, the guys (and girls) in this championship are great.
see you about. and if you're doing any testing, give me a shout and i'll join you. I'm getting better with the spanners by the day!
cheers, Steve
A clio cup car should be interesting in class c!
Have you got an idea of lap times round croft in one of those?
WRT your question. I have to say after my first season in NSSCC the paddock camaraderie is possibly the best in the country.
I've had fellow competitors rebuilding my car to get me back out a few times, as have most other people in the paddock.
12 guys round a car trying to get it into the race is VERY common, and newcomers are probably helped a little more than most (if possible!)
You won't believe it until you see it, the guys (and girls) in this championship are great.
see you about. and if you're doing any testing, give me a shout and i'll join you. I'm getting better with the spanners by the day!
cheers, Steve
Hi Steve - yes I've got no idea how quick it will be in our hands but they have been clocked at 1.37 around Croft.
We're really looking forward to it actually - the people and the cameraderie from our short visits were great - just need to get some testing done!
What are you doing to the Fiesta over the winter? Or is that under wraps?!
We're really looking forward to it actually - the people and the cameraderie from our short visits were great - just need to get some testing done!
What are you doing to the Fiesta over the winter? Or is that under wraps?!
Drop me a PN if you like. I ran Tom Onslow-Cole's 2006 championship winning car in the LMA Euro Saloons series for 2 years and can give you some info.
I've also got a spare pair of Sadev driveshafts I'm looking to get rid of for £150 (£700 new...).
The main thing to be careful with the Clio is the Sadev gearbox (change the oil every 2nd race as a MINIMUM, using syn5 or another high quality oil) and the rear suspension geometry.
Front brake pads can benefit from being changed to Ferrodo DS1.11s. Expensive, but WAY better than the stock PFs.
Be VERY careful who you get to rebuild your box. There are several people who can physically do it, but I've seen lots of rebuilds on these boxes. I'd recommend Steve Waudby @ SWR motorsport, as 1) he was the sole guy approved to rebuild them for the championship cars 2) he's the UK Sadev importer, 3)he's a nice, honest bloke!
Do you know who's car you've bought (i.e. who raced it in the Clio cup)?
I've also got a spare pair of Sadev driveshafts I'm looking to get rid of for £150 (£700 new...).
The main thing to be careful with the Clio is the Sadev gearbox (change the oil every 2nd race as a MINIMUM, using syn5 or another high quality oil) and the rear suspension geometry.
Front brake pads can benefit from being changed to Ferrodo DS1.11s. Expensive, but WAY better than the stock PFs.
Be VERY careful who you get to rebuild your box. There are several people who can physically do it, but I've seen lots of rebuilds on these boxes. I'd recommend Steve Waudby @ SWR motorsport, as 1) he was the sole guy approved to rebuild them for the championship cars 2) he's the UK Sadev importer, 3)he's a nice, honest bloke!
Do you know who's car you've bought (i.e. who raced it in the Clio cup)?
fergus said:
Drop me a PN if you like. I ran Tom Onslow-Cole's 2006 championship winning car in the LMA Euro Saloons series for 2 years and can give you some info.
I've also got a spare pair of Sadev driveshafts I'm looking to get rid of for £150 (£700 new...).
The main thing to be careful with the Clio is the Sadev gearbox (change the oil every 2nd race as a MINIMUM, using syn5 or another high quality oil) and the rear suspension geometry.
Front brake pads can benefit from being changed to Ferrodo DS1.11s. Expensive, but WAY better than the stock PFs.
Be VERY careful who you get to rebuild your box. There are several people who can physically do it, but I've seen lots of rebuilds on these boxes. I'd recommend Steve Waudby @ SWR motorsport, as 1) he was the sole guy approved to rebuild them for the championship cars 2) he's the UK Sadev importer, 3)he's a nice, honest bloke!
Do you know who's car you've bought (i.e. who raced it in the Clio cup)?
Hi Fergus, I'm the 'mate' referred to in the first post.I've also got a spare pair of Sadev driveshafts I'm looking to get rid of for £150 (£700 new...).
The main thing to be careful with the Clio is the Sadev gearbox (change the oil every 2nd race as a MINIMUM, using syn5 or another high quality oil) and the rear suspension geometry.
Front brake pads can benefit from being changed to Ferrodo DS1.11s. Expensive, but WAY better than the stock PFs.
Be VERY careful who you get to rebuild your box. There are several people who can physically do it, but I've seen lots of rebuilds on these boxes. I'd recommend Steve Waudby @ SWR motorsport, as 1) he was the sole guy approved to rebuild them for the championship cars 2) he's the UK Sadev importer, 3)he's a nice, honest bloke!
Do you know who's car you've bought (i.e. who raced it in the Clio cup)?
We've bought Paul Rivett's car from Martin at Boulevard, we should be picking it up in the next couple of weeks. Martin and JD have already told us about the gearbox, and recommended someone in Sheffield (closer to us that SWR, we're both in Yorkshire) to do the rebuilds.
We're getting a bit of a spares package with the car, but we may well be interested in the driveshafts if we don't get a pair with the car (Martin's having a workshop clearout and we'll get a third of what he has as he still has 2 cars).
Brake pads - noted, thanks.
Mark Benson said:
fergus said:
Drop me a PN if you like. I ran Tom Onslow-Cole's 2006 championship winning car in the LMA Euro Saloons series for 2 years and can give you some info.
I've also got a spare pair of Sadev driveshafts I'm looking to get rid of for £150 (£700 new...).
The main thing to be careful with the Clio is the Sadev gearbox (change the oil every 2nd race as a MINIMUM, using syn5 or another high quality oil) and the rear suspension geometry.
Front brake pads can benefit from being changed to Ferrodo DS1.11s. Expensive, but WAY better than the stock PFs.
Be VERY careful who you get to rebuild your box. There are several people who can physically do it, but I've seen lots of rebuilds on these boxes. I'd recommend Steve Waudby @ SWR motorsport, as 1) he was the sole guy approved to rebuild them for the championship cars 2) he's the UK Sadev importer, 3)he's a nice, honest bloke!
Do you know who's car you've bought (i.e. who raced it in the Clio cup)?
Hi Fergus, I'm the 'mate' referred to in the first post.I've also got a spare pair of Sadev driveshafts I'm looking to get rid of for £150 (£700 new...).
The main thing to be careful with the Clio is the Sadev gearbox (change the oil every 2nd race as a MINIMUM, using syn5 or another high quality oil) and the rear suspension geometry.
Front brake pads can benefit from being changed to Ferrodo DS1.11s. Expensive, but WAY better than the stock PFs.
Be VERY careful who you get to rebuild your box. There are several people who can physically do it, but I've seen lots of rebuilds on these boxes. I'd recommend Steve Waudby @ SWR motorsport, as 1) he was the sole guy approved to rebuild them for the championship cars 2) he's the UK Sadev importer, 3)he's a nice, honest bloke!
Do you know who's car you've bought (i.e. who raced it in the Clio cup)?
We've bought Paul Rivett's car from Martin at Boulevard, we should be picking it up in the next couple of weeks. Martin and JD have already told us about the gearbox, and recommended someone in Sheffield (closer to us that SWR, we're both in Yorkshire) to do the rebuilds.
We're getting a bit of a spares package with the car, but we may well be interested in the driveshafts if we don't get a pair with the car (Martin's having a workshop clearout and we'll get a third of what he has as he still has 2 cars).
Brake pads - noted, thanks.
PS Driveshafts now sold.
PPS the tyres can do several heat cycles (assuming you run on S9B michelins). You should get at least 3-4 races out of them at club level before needing new ones. Make sure you scrub the new ones in gently, otherwise, they'll be dead after one weekend!
Edited by fergus on Wednesday 21st October 15:12
fergus said:
Good, well looked after car. Good choice. To be honest, you'll probably find there are more spares than you have space for! Ask what setup is on the car when you get it. The setup of Cup cars are very closely guarded, especially if the car is still racing! with the 182 model, be aware that until there is ANY heat in the rears, you may swap ends fairly quickly. Keep your foot in! there is some useful datalogging via the AIM DL on the Clio.
PS Driveshafts now sold.
PPS the tyres can do several heat cycles (assuming you run on S9B michelins). You should get at least 3-4 races out of them at club level before needing new ones. Make sure you scrub the new ones in gently, otherwise, they'll be dead after one weekend!
We're limited to tyres from 1a and 1b in the blue book, so no chance of competing on the S9Bs - any idea what a decent road tyre would be for the car, we were thinking one of the 'grooved slick' type tyres like the 888 or the A048, but it's something we're going to have to look into.PS Driveshafts now sold.
PPS the tyres can do several heat cycles (assuming you run on S9B michelins). You should get at least 3-4 races out of them at club level before needing new ones. Make sure you scrub the new ones in gently, otherwise, they'll be dead after one weekend!
Martin has promised us some help with setup, generic settings, that sort of thing - including coming to a test day with us once we're ready to put some track time in, which was nice of him.
Does the DL record engine revs (in case of a buzzed engine, we've agreed the over-revver pays for the rebuild - not that we intend to do such a thing, but when you're sharing costs, it has to be a consideration)?
Mark Benson said:
fergus said:
Good, well looked after car. Good choice. To be honest, you'll probably find there are more spares than you have space for! Ask what setup is on the car when you get it. The setup of Cup cars are very closely guarded, especially if the car is still racing! with the 182 model, be aware that until there is ANY heat in the rears, you may swap ends fairly quickly. Keep your foot in! there is some useful datalogging via the AIM DL on the Clio.
PS Driveshafts now sold.
PPS the tyres can do several heat cycles (assuming you run on S9B michelins). You should get at least 3-4 races out of them at club level before needing new ones. Make sure you scrub the new ones in gently, otherwise, they'll be dead after one weekend!
We're limited to tyres from 1a and 1b in the blue book, so no chance of competing on the S9Bs - any idea what a decent road tyre would be for the car, we were thinking one of the 'grooved slick' type tyres like the 888 or the A048, but it's something we're going to have to look into.PS Driveshafts now sold.
PPS the tyres can do several heat cycles (assuming you run on S9B michelins). You should get at least 3-4 races out of them at club level before needing new ones. Make sure you scrub the new ones in gently, otherwise, they'll be dead after one weekend!
Martin has promised us some help with setup, generic settings, that sort of thing - including coming to a test day with us once we're ready to put some track time in, which was nice of him.
Does the DL record engine revs (in case of a buzzed engine, we've agreed the over-revver pays for the rebuild - not that we intend to do such a thing, but when you're sharing costs, it has to be a consideration)?
Try Kumho excsta V70 (from memory) - IIRC they're list 1b and come in various compounds. I used the Toyo R888 as an inter and it worked quite well, although the side walls aren't as stiff as the slicks, but stiffer than the A048Rs. You won't be able to run as extreme suspension settings as with slicks, but you can still go fairly hard.
Get Martin to take you through the gearbox maintenance plan, and make sure you empty/undo BOTH drain plugs. Ideally, you'll warm the gearbox up for a few mins with the car on axle stands prior to giving it death. You need to be firm on the lever when shifting, otherwise the dogs don't engage properly and you can hit a false neutral. If you get a judder after shifting, the flat shift sensor is on it's way out!
Get hold of a PDF copy of the manual if you can, it's got loads of baseline setup/calibration info in it. Also shows how to drop the lower cradle to drop the engine and box out.
fergus said:
DL does record revs. Go to the AIM website and download the relevant 'Race Studio' version.
Try Kumho excsta V70 (from memory) - IIRC they're list 1b and come in various compounds. I used the Toyo R888 as an inter and it worked quite well, although the side walls aren't as stiff as the slicks, but stiffer than the A048Rs. You won't be able to run as extreme suspension settings as with slicks, but you can still go fairly hard.
Get Martin to take you through the gearbox maintenance plan, and make sure you empty/undo BOTH drain plugs. Ideally, you'll warm the gearbox up for a few mins with the car on axle stands prior to giving it death. You need to be firm on the lever when shifting, otherwise the dogs don't engage properly and you can hit a false neutral. If you get a judder after shifting, the flat shift sensor is on it's way out!
Get hold of a PDF copy of the manual if you can, it's got loads of baseline setup/calibration info in it. Also shows how to drop the lower cradle to drop the engine and box out.
Excellent advice, thanks.Try Kumho excsta V70 (from memory) - IIRC they're list 1b and come in various compounds. I used the Toyo R888 as an inter and it worked quite well, although the side walls aren't as stiff as the slicks, but stiffer than the A048Rs. You won't be able to run as extreme suspension settings as with slicks, but you can still go fairly hard.
Get Martin to take you through the gearbox maintenance plan, and make sure you empty/undo BOTH drain plugs. Ideally, you'll warm the gearbox up for a few mins with the car on axle stands prior to giving it death. You need to be firm on the lever when shifting, otherwise the dogs don't engage properly and you can hit a false neutral. If you get a judder after shifting, the flat shift sensor is on it's way out!
Get hold of a PDF copy of the manual if you can, it's got loads of baseline setup/calibration info in it. Also shows how to drop the lower cradle to drop the engine and box out.
rralston said:
Hi Steve - yes I've got no idea how quick it will be in our hands but they have been clocked at 1.37 around Croft.
We're really looking forward to it actually - the people and the cameraderie from our short visits were great - just need to get some testing done!
What are you doing to the Fiesta over the winter? Or is that under wraps?!
Hi, sorry for the late rely. 1.37 sounds interesting! will be brilliant to watch you as you come past to lap me again and again!We're really looking forward to it actually - the people and the cameraderie from our short visits were great - just need to get some testing done!
What are you doing to the Fiesta over the winter? Or is that under wraps?!
The fiesta is getting a full rebuild with upgrades on almost everything. Hopefully that'll move me up from last to second from last......
stinkysteve said:
rralston said:
Hi Steve - yes I've got no idea how quick it will be in our hands but they have been clocked at 1.37 around Croft.
We're really looking forward to it actually - the people and the cameraderie from our short visits were great - just need to get some testing done!
What are you doing to the Fiesta over the winter? Or is that under wraps?!
Hi, sorry for the late rely. 1.37 sounds interesting! will be brilliant to watch you as you come past to lap me again and again!We're really looking forward to it actually - the people and the cameraderie from our short visits were great - just need to get some testing done!
What are you doing to the Fiesta over the winter? Or is that under wraps?!
The fiesta is getting a full rebuild with upgrades on almost everything. Hopefully that'll move me up from last to second from last......
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