Ultima Can Am Build: A Mini-Diary
Discussion
356Speedster said:
Steve - I didn't drill the top of the front b-head, but there's no mention in the build manual about not doing the rear, grrrr!!! That said there's a lot missing from the manual 
Still at least there's still Stig's site out there 
It isn't in the manual, but it is on my websites Still at least there's still Stig's site out there 
356Speedster said:
That's why I used 4 clamps overnight while it went off Rather that than trying to line up all those rivet holes and transpose to the body, which unfortunately I'm going to have to do with the side pods & rear bodywork 
Would you like a tip on how to do it? Rather that than trying to line up all those rivet holes and transpose to the body, which unfortunately I'm going to have to do with the side pods & rear bodywork Run a piece of foil tape (or any tape that doesn't stretch) along the line of rivet holes and use a pen/drill bit/centre punch to mark each of the holes in it.
Now as long as you get a datum point for the first and last rivet holes and, CRITICALLY, their vertical position in relation to the bulkhead, you can apply the tape to the body and drill through into the original holes.
Did this with the GTR (I think almost everyone does first time round
) and it worked perfectly.
Stig said:
It isn't in the manual, but it is on my websites
To any would be builders, read & download Stig's sites, they are fab and have probably saved me hrs of swearing already!To the question of cooling.... I'm going the LS route, so from research and advice, it seems these are easier to keep cool than the SBC. Only time will tell!
356Speedster said:
To any would be builders, read & download Stig's sites, they are fab and have probably saved me hrs of swearing already!
To the question of cooling.... I'm going the LS route, so from research and advice, it seems these are easier to keep cool than the SBC. Only time will tell!
Good decision on the LS (it's what I'd do for build 3...cough). From that perspective, leave the lagging in place. Worst case it will mean I can tell deadscoob 'told you so' To the question of cooling.... I'm going the LS route, so from research and advice, it seems these are easier to keep cool than the SBC. Only time will tell!
The LS engine does keep cooler than the old SBC, I've got an LS3 and it keeps at an indicated 85 degrees all day, get stuck in traffic and it builds to 95 then the fans cut in for about a minute, I also run an alloy radiator so that helps aswell.
At last years LMC we sat in sweltering heat in Arnage and it stayed at 95 no problem, I think I would've struggled with my old engine in at heat.
At last years LMC we sat in sweltering heat in Arnage and it stayed at 95 no problem, I think I would've struggled with my old engine in at heat.
When I built my car the kit/instructions included a small ali bulkhead that sealed the whole of the side pod behind the luggage containers. I don't believe it is in there any more but I would advise it is very important as it stops heat and fumes from the engine coming past the luggage containers and up over the footwell top chassis rails and into the cockpit.
Steve
Steve
Anyone found the optimum method of 'capping' off the large hole each side ahead of the side-pod containers under the dash?
This area is a real pain with all the chassis tubes sprouting out, and the loom, and the heater pipes, but...
..from what I read, a heck of a lot of heat comes up under the dash from these areas.
I understand that some have tried to fill with foam
, and other things, but just wondered if anyone hade found the optimum solution????
If only some enterprising company had come up with a new plastic technology where the sheet was very pliable, so easy to cut and get around difficult obstructions, and then apply heat....and 'voila' and it hardens into a rigid sheet that can be fixed into position! - Gimme 20% for the idea!
I'll wake up now....
This area is a real pain with all the chassis tubes sprouting out, and the loom, and the heater pipes, but...
..from what I read, a heck of a lot of heat comes up under the dash from these areas.
I understand that some have tried to fill with foam
, and other things, but just wondered if anyone hade found the optimum solution????If only some enterprising company had come up with a new plastic technology where the sheet was very pliable, so easy to cut and get around difficult obstructions, and then apply heat....and 'voila' and it hardens into a rigid sheet that can be fixed into position! - Gimme 20% for the idea!
I'll wake up now....
This is my effort, on both sides I insulated the pipes then covered them with a couple of inches of dense foam then covered the top with self adhesive heat mat. It has cut down the heat but you can still feel warm air from under dash so hasn’t eliminated it completely.
Just to add that I also stuck sound deadner to the underside of the dash, as that heats up quite a bit. Apart from sealing the cockpit and double skining the cockpit there's not a lot more I can do....
Just to add that I also stuck sound deadner to the underside of the dash, as that heats up quite a bit. Apart from sealing the cockpit and double skining the cockpit there's not a lot more I can do....
Edited by Graham-P on Tuesday 23 August 14:06
Graham-P said:
This is my effort, on both sides I insulated the pipes then covered them with a couple of inches of dense foam then covered the top with self adhesive heat mat. It has cut down the heat but you can still feel warm air from under dash so hasn’t eliminated it completely.
Interesting idea..... maybe backed with some flexible plastic sheeting too, that could cut the warm waft down a bit more? What insulation did you use, out of interest?Graham-P said:
This is my effort, on both sides I insulated the pipes then covered them with a couple of inches of dense foam then covered the top with self adhesive heat mat. It has cut down the heat but you can still feel warm air from under dash so hasn’t eliminated it completely.
Just to add that I also stuck sound deadner to the underside of the dash, as that heats up quite a bit. Apart from sealing the cockpit and double skining the cockpit there's not a lot more I can do....
So if the pipes are lagged and the big holes well insulated, where is the heat wash coming from?Just to add that I also stuck sound deadner to the underside of the dash, as that heats up quite a bit. Apart from sealing the cockpit and double skining the cockpit there's not a lot more I can do....
Edited by Graham-P on Tuesday 23 August 14:06
If you have also shielded between the battery compartment and the rad area, double puzzled?
Only place I can think of would be the heater unit itself, but...only if the valve was ON????
356Speedster said:
Interesting idea..... maybe backed with some flexible plastic sheeting too, that could cut the warm waft down a bit more? What insulation did you use, out of interest?
I bought some close cell foam ages ago from Stoneleigh, I think Wollies do sheets of close cell foam or maybe pipe lagging foam.V8 Vum said:
So if the pipes are lagged and the big holes well insulated, where is the heat wash coming from?
If you have also shielded between the battery compartment and the rad area, double puzzled?
Only place I can think of would be the heater unit itself, but...only if the valve was ON????
Not the heater, I have two valves, a servo one on the to hose and a manual one on the return hose, plus I now have the heater hose from the 'H' piece returning back into itself (ie. isulated the heater).If you have also shielded between the battery compartment and the rad area, double puzzled?
Only place I can think of would be the heater unit itself, but...only if the valve was ON????
I have noticed that my feet get very warm so it's coming in somewhere. I think it's the radiated heat from the pipes going down the sides, even though I've insulated the cockpit sides.
I notice that the GT40 boys have their radiator pipes going through the centre of the car, does anyone know if they suffer from heat from this arrangement, I know they need air con but that may just be because like us they have no opening windows.
Graham-P said:
Not the heater, I have two valves, a servo one on the to hose and a manual one on the return hose, plus I now have the heater hose from the 'H' piece returning back into itself (ie. isulated the heater).
I have noticed that my feet get very warm so it's coming in somewhere. I think it's the radiated heat from the pipes going down the sides, even though I've insulated the cockpit sides.
I notice that the GT40 boys have their radiator pipes going through the centre of the car, does anyone know if they suffer from heat from this arrangement, I know they need air con but that may just be because like us they have no opening windows.
Graham,I have noticed that my feet get very warm so it's coming in somewhere. I think it's the radiated heat from the pipes going down the sides, even though I've insulated the cockpit sides.
I notice that the GT40 boys have their radiator pipes going through the centre of the car, does anyone know if they suffer from heat from this arrangement, I know they need air con but that may just be because like us they have no opening windows.
Does that not suggest that heavily lagging the rad pipes to where they exit the front of the side-pods might be the best route then? If you don't have an SBC that is!
V8 Vum said:
Graham,
Does that not suggest that heavily lagging the rad pipes to where they exit the front of the side-pods might be the best route then? If you don't have an SBC that is!
I guess that's a route to go down at a later date if I take it to bits again. I'll just keep plugging away.Does that not suggest that heavily lagging the rad pipes to where they exit the front of the side-pods might be the best route then? If you don't have an SBC that is!
My main radiator pipes, the smaller rad pipe and my heater pipes are now lagged from my sidepod rear alloy bulkhead to the point they exit the front of the side pod.
I have no luggage containers so I felt this was the best approach to minimise heat transfer and keep things reasonably tidy.
I see little point in skinning the front of the battery area. Hot air will bleed from the side of the radiator into that area as well as the cooling side pipes. Unless you completely box that area in it will still get hot.
Paul
I have no luggage containers so I felt this was the best approach to minimise heat transfer and keep things reasonably tidy.
I see little point in skinning the front of the battery area. Hot air will bleed from the side of the radiator into that area as well as the cooling side pipes. Unless you completely box that area in it will still get hot.
Paul
Storer said:
I see little point in skinning the front of the battery area. Hot air will bleed from the side of the radiator into that area as well as the cooling side pipes. Unless you completely box that area in it will still get hot.
Paul
Boxing that area would also save all the grit and sh*t getting in there (winter job)Paul
UltimaCH said:
That is nice to know as around here and where I hang out, it gets pretty hot. Yesterday we had 37c max temp) Didn't know an alu rad was a better heat dissipater than copper (apart from weight difference or course)
If the design/size of the radiator are the same then the one made of copper will be more efficient (and obviously heavier). If you make two radiators with the same weight, the one made of Aluminum will be more efficient (and bigger). I hope you understand the example My experience with alu rads for street cars like Supras etc is that the alu rads never works better than the stock rads did and more than a few times they have worked less good. Save a kilo or two and get less good cooling... Not the best idea maybe.
The most effective way to make the rad work better is to make the surface area bigger. Thicker doesn't do much for the efficiency when you pass 2" thickness. The other thing is to make nice ducting for the air and make sure no air can escape on the sides of the radiator.
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