Discussion
Several options here.
Are you referring to the underside of the chassis or the backside of the inner chassis cockpit panels? I didn't paint my panels, but I probably would have done the underside of the cockpit floor. Are you concerned with weight? Or are you just looking to protect the panels?
Hammerite is one option...as you mentioned. Its an excellent product and I used it on my petrol tanks. Its very durable, and they claim you can even spray it over rust! I had a leak under one of my fuel tanks recently, and had to pull a tank out. The hammerite paint held up well, but did soften up quite a bit where the tank had been sitting in petrol. One thing I think is important, now that I've learned quite a bit about painting, is that you should sand those smooth alluminum panels with a minimum of 600 grit paper(320-400 if applying primer). This gives the paint something to bite into. I didn't do this with the tanks the first time, but I did it the second time I painted them. Hammerite is a nice thick, hard, coating. I don't know if its your best choice though. I'm afraid it might not hold up well to stone chips. However, its an excellent coating in areas that won't be subjected to chipping but need protecting.
You can purchase a spray on or brush on rubberized undercoating or truck bedliner coating. I think this is more suitable. The spray on doesn't weigh as much, and I'd probably use this under the chassis. The roll on is excellent in the fender wells around the tires. You can paint the inside of the body panels with flat black lacquer paint to kill the fiberglass smell and dress it up a bit. Hammerite would also be a good option here, as it doesn't require a primer. I'd also apply a rubberized undercoating to the fender wells though.
Two more words of advice, if spraying or brushing on any kind of paint, wear a decent respirator. The Darth Vador honker kind with two cartridges that screw onto the sides. It filters out fiberglass particulates much better than the paper masks anyway for cutting the bodywork. Keep the mask in a sealed bag when not in use. Also apply the product in a well ventilated area. If you can't do it outside, then run some fans in the garage and open up the doors. Hope this helps.
Cheers!
-Mack
Are you referring to the underside of the chassis or the backside of the inner chassis cockpit panels? I didn't paint my panels, but I probably would have done the underside of the cockpit floor. Are you concerned with weight? Or are you just looking to protect the panels?
Hammerite is one option...as you mentioned. Its an excellent product and I used it on my petrol tanks. Its very durable, and they claim you can even spray it over rust! I had a leak under one of my fuel tanks recently, and had to pull a tank out. The hammerite paint held up well, but did soften up quite a bit where the tank had been sitting in petrol. One thing I think is important, now that I've learned quite a bit about painting, is that you should sand those smooth alluminum panels with a minimum of 600 grit paper(320-400 if applying primer). This gives the paint something to bite into. I didn't do this with the tanks the first time, but I did it the second time I painted them. Hammerite is a nice thick, hard, coating. I don't know if its your best choice though. I'm afraid it might not hold up well to stone chips. However, its an excellent coating in areas that won't be subjected to chipping but need protecting.
You can purchase a spray on or brush on rubberized undercoating or truck bedliner coating. I think this is more suitable. The spray on doesn't weigh as much, and I'd probably use this under the chassis. The roll on is excellent in the fender wells around the tires. You can paint the inside of the body panels with flat black lacquer paint to kill the fiberglass smell and dress it up a bit. Hammerite would also be a good option here, as it doesn't require a primer. I'd also apply a rubberized undercoating to the fender wells though.
Two more words of advice, if spraying or brushing on any kind of paint, wear a decent respirator. The Darth Vador honker kind with two cartridges that screw onto the sides. It filters out fiberglass particulates much better than the paper masks anyway for cutting the bodywork. Keep the mask in a sealed bag when not in use. Also apply the product in a well ventilated area. If you can't do it outside, then run some fans in the garage and open up the doors. Hope this helps.
Cheers!
-Mack
If you are priming bar metal be sure to use a self-etching primer. It is designed for adhesion to bare metal
www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/itemdy00.asp?UID=2002122400185552&T1=16109+ZP&CODIV=0125
www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/itemdy00.asp?UID=2002122400185552&T1=16109+ZP&CODIV=0125
Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff