g50 reverse gear adjustment ?
Discussion
Spatz, First of all you could not understand what I wrote because I misspelled it. I meant to say, way to stay after it, a complement on your not giving up. That said, Crafty is correct, by attaching the linkage to the frame you will heave a problem. I have seen the same thing done with a cable shifter regardless of the type linkage the asymetrical movement between the drive train and the frame will pull and push on your shift levers in the tranny. Either it will pop out of gear or you will eventualy damage the transmission. IMHO Lee
crafty said:
There's a post here with a simple setup on the thread below
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-powertrain-tr...
The exhaust is in the way in his picture .... I expect he's done it the way Ive drawn it below.
This arrangement would involve a redesign of the shifter linkage at the front as the motions have been reversed by that linkage.http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-powertrain-tr...
The exhaust is in the way in his picture .... I expect he's done it the way Ive drawn it below.
Steve
This setup introduces a few problems that mine does not have, both rods will see some stress when moving gear box rod forth and back, the longer the arms are the less problematic but not a good solution in my opinion. My forth and back movement are absolutely stress free and will not introduce any force to the gear box rod other than what necessary to move the rod. If true that the gear box movement will create problems then you only need to attach the rail with the 2 ball heads to the gear box housing but I doubt that this will be true.
The factory setup would have transported the gear box movement as well and I have never encountered a lever movement or even pulling out of gear. In the factoy setup the gear box if moving would move the complete linkage as well and it is quite heavy so if that is a problem it would be a problem with all cars that use the factory linkage.
The factory setup would have transported the gear box movement as well and I have never encountered a lever movement or even pulling out of gear. In the factoy setup the gear box if moving would move the complete linkage as well and it is quite heavy so if that is a problem it would be a problem with all cars that use the factory linkage.
YES you guessed it right, a very typical Ultima problem has occured, the rear clam was not fitting if the
arms go to the bottom direction. Since I now had to have them upright I decided the replace the aluminium rail by
somthing solid out of steel and do a little welding of this piece to the gear box holder.
This has now brought the rod almost in the same height as the gear box rod, and yes it works even better now.
I would say this is a major improvement of how the car feels when driving and worth any minute I spent on it.
arms go to the bottom direction. Since I now had to have them upright I decided the replace the aluminium rail by
somthing solid out of steel and do a little welding of this piece to the gear box holder.
This has now brought the rod almost in the same height as the gear box rod, and yes it works even better now.
I would say this is a major improvement of how the car feels when driving and worth any minute I spent on it.
The current pictured setup already allows changing the effective lever length and the shorter they get the more precise but more force necesseray.
In general the arm is working as a lever that is transforming the front movement of the gear stick.
I mainly was unhappy with the fact that in the factory setup the feeling is very wobbly and heavy.
This has all gone and now my wife can even select reverse gear ! Keeping in mind that it is still very cold and I have not been able to get the gear box
oil at temperature....maybe today I will have her out for a longer drive, wheather looking good !
In general the arm is working as a lever that is transforming the front movement of the gear stick.
I mainly was unhappy with the fact that in the factory setup the feeling is very wobbly and heavy.
This has all gone and now my wife can even select reverse gear ! Keeping in mind that it is still very cold and I have not been able to get the gear box
oil at temperature....maybe today I will have her out for a longer drive, wheather looking good !
sorry my answer was a little unprecise, Steve as usual is right, the whole idea of the many holes in the arms is
to make them adjustable to your personal preference. The factory setup is using some leverage with the drawback
that it is very wobbly and stressing the rod. MY setup as pictured is creating almost no additional leverage at the arm location
so effectively the travel at the gear stick has reduced and force increased compared to the factory setup.
However you can now really feel the detent of the reverse which I think makes it nicer and in effect the gear planes are now much closer together.
to make them adjustable to your personal preference. The factory setup is using some leverage with the drawback
that it is very wobbly and stressing the rod. MY setup as pictured is creating almost no additional leverage at the arm location
so effectively the travel at the gear stick has reduced and force increased compared to the factory setup.
However you can now really feel the detent of the reverse which I think makes it nicer and in effect the gear planes are now much closer together.
Edited by spatz on Friday 4th March 07:48
you have put a lot of work in that linkage, but it introduces multiple points at which bearing clearance can result in a vague shift feel. The factory lever that is attached to the shifter input shaft on the transaxle looks to be stiffer, simpler and lighter. Did you consider using it?
Not trying to be insulting but it really works.
Not trying to be insulting but it really works.
oh yes I have really tried the factory setup and it does not work for me.
The pivot points in my design have no play whatsoever and use proper bearings.
If you are ok with the factory setup no need to change, for me when I had this installed for the first time, I could hardly believe that
anybody can use it. I have also made changes to the front setup, see my build site if interested because initially I had the choice between
no reverse or no fifth gear................
Just came home from a 100miles spin, LOVELY !!!
The pivot points in my design have no play whatsoever and use proper bearings.
If you are ok with the factory setup no need to change, for me when I had this installed for the first time, I could hardly believe that
anybody can use it. I have also made changes to the front setup, see my build site if interested because initially I had the choice between
no reverse or no fifth gear................
Just came home from a 100miles spin, LOVELY !!!
Edited by spatz on Friday 4th March 15:48
Hi Graham, so my english produced another laugh........today wheather looking good again, I thing I need to do some mapping,
still having trouble with the engine not running perfectly at certain rpms when accelerating, in general lambda is telling me too lean, so will try to
increase injector time and see what the result is.
still having trouble with the engine not running perfectly at certain rpms when accelerating, in general lambda is telling me too lean, so will try to
increase injector time and see what the result is.
hi
that looks a cool setup but hope you dont mind me asking a couple of questions..
The gearbox is rubber mounted and the shift system isnt, as the mounts soften will it effect gear changes?
and
I have seen an Ultima where the gearbox mounting cradle had cracked and broken... The rod you have welded your mounting to is very thin tubing... Will the additional forces you are putting through this long thin walled tube require a trianglation from the end of your welded plate to the chassis or down to the gearbox mount bolt... Only a thought because if it broke you would have no gearchange at all?
Dom
that looks a cool setup but hope you dont mind me asking a couple of questions..
The gearbox is rubber mounted and the shift system isnt, as the mounts soften will it effect gear changes?
and
I have seen an Ultima where the gearbox mounting cradle had cracked and broken... The rod you have welded your mounting to is very thin tubing... Will the additional forces you are putting through this long thin walled tube require a trianglation from the end of your welded plate to the chassis or down to the gearbox mount bolt... Only a thought because if it broke you would have no gearchange at all?
Dom
Edited by V8Dom on Saturday 5th March 12:09
that looks a cool setup but hope you dont mind me asking a couple of questions..
The gearbox is rubber mounted and the shift system isnt, as the mounts soften will it effect gear changes?
I have seen an Ultima where the gearbox mounting cradle had cracked and broken... The rod you have welded your mounting to is very thin tubing... Will the additional forces you are putting through this long thin walled tube require a trianglation from the end of your welded plate to the chassis or down to the gearbox mount bolt... Only a thought because if it broke you would have no gearchange at all?
FROM SPATZ
Actually the holiding plate is welded to the tube of the gear box holder where the M12 thread is running through, very solid piece there, that will not crack by its own. And there is an additional M12 nut that holds the whole plate, the welding is mereley necessary so the plate cannot move up and down.
Since the arms and the entire gear linkage can move freely there is no stress on the gear box rod even if the box is moving.
The gearbox is rubber mounted and the shift system isnt, as the mounts soften will it effect gear changes?
I have seen an Ultima where the gearbox mounting cradle had cracked and broken... The rod you have welded your mounting to is very thin tubing... Will the additional forces you are putting through this long thin walled tube require a trianglation from the end of your welded plate to the chassis or down to the gearbox mount bolt... Only a thought because if it broke you would have no gearchange at all?
FROM SPATZ
Actually the holiding plate is welded to the tube of the gear box holder where the M12 thread is running through, very solid piece there, that will not crack by its own. And there is an additional M12 nut that holds the whole plate, the welding is mereley necessary so the plate cannot move up and down.
Since the arms and the entire gear linkage can move freely there is no stress on the gear box rod even if the box is moving.
I am sorry to come back to this topic, but I have a huge problem with setting the reverse gear. I have gearboxes G50-03 controlled by rods. I replaced all wrists because they were loose. After exchanging the next day I can not hit despite many adjustments for reverse gear. All forward gears turn on without problems. I want to go crazy. The only rescue in your help.
the reverse gear always went hard but it was ok. Now madness.
the reverse gear always went hard but it was ok. Now madness.
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