What’s your Hi-Fi set up? spec and pictures please
Discussion
You guys with your CD 500s and CD 600s. I only had an entry level CD 35z I bought off someone.
Only had a ghetto blaster or cheap hifi at the time, and remember installing the Nak and then thinking "oh", as there was stuff in the songs I had not heard before due to crap hifi
That's when I realised I worth spending on audio gear.
Looked on ebay just now out of curiosity and these things are still selling for £100+.
Only had a ghetto blaster or cheap hifi at the time, and remember installing the Nak and then thinking "oh", as there was stuff in the songs I had not heard before due to crap hifi
That's when I realised I worth spending on audio gear.Looked on ebay just now out of curiosity and these things are still selling for £100+.
STiG911 said:
Ah. When Car Audio was frequently worth five or six times the cost of your car - good times.
I was never rich enough to afford Nakamichi gear, but I did have an Alpine 7390M Head Unit with two older matching amps, one of which was a Class A model literally the size of a shoebox. The sound out of those was amazing.
(For a bit of extra geekery, I always used 'That's' audio cassettes - anyone remember those?)
I had a fair few That’s but mostly TDK AR90s. I was never rich enough to afford Nakamichi gear, but I did have an Alpine 7390M Head Unit with two older matching amps, one of which was a Class A model literally the size of a shoebox. The sound out of those was amazing.
(For a bit of extra geekery, I always used 'That's' audio cassettes - anyone remember those?)
Riff Raff said:
TonyRPH said:
Teddy Lop said:
Incandescent bulbs do not strobe - they're basically small heaters - most old fluorescent lighting will pulse in sync with the mains.
They do actually strobe - it can be difficult to see - but I have used them on many occasions for the purpose.Unless you think the filament heats up and cools down 100 times a second?
Riff Raff said:
Teddy Lop said:
By heating it until it's white-hot.
Unless you think the filament heats up and cools down 100 times a second?
Mains is 240v AC. What does AC stand for?Unless you think the filament heats up and cools down 100 times a second?
Let's start by you understand how a filament light bulb works - I'll give you a start - it's pretty much laid out in the post you've quoted.
How the power is applied is completely irrelevant - a filament bulb will generate the same light on 230v rms AC or indeed DC
Teddy Lop said:
Riff Raff said:
Teddy Lop said:
By heating it until it's white-hot.
Unless you think the filament heats up and cools down 100 times a second?
Mains is 240v AC. What does AC stand for?Unless you think the filament heats up and cools down 100 times a second?
Let's start by you understand how a filament light bulb works - I'll give you a start - it's pretty much laid out in the post you've quoted.
How the power is applied is completely irrelevant - a filament bulb will generate the same light on 230v rms AC or indeed DC
Riff Raff said:
Teddy Lop said:
Riff Raff said:
Teddy Lop said:
By heating it until it's white-hot.
Unless you think the filament heats up and cools down 100 times a second?
Mains is 240v AC. What does AC stand for?Unless you think the filament heats up and cools down 100 times a second?
Let's start by you understand how a filament light bulb works - I'll give you a start - it's pretty much laid out in the post you've quoted.
How the power is applied is completely irrelevant - a filament bulb will generate the same light on 230v rms AC or indeed DC
Riff Raff said:
Teddy Lop said:
Riff Raff said:
Teddy Lop said:
By heating it until it's white-hot.
Unless you think the filament heats up and cools down 100 times a second?
Mains is 240v AC. What does AC stand for?Unless you think the filament heats up and cools down 100 times a second?
Let's start by you understand how a filament light bulb works - I'll give you a start - it's pretty much laid out in the post you've quoted.
How the power is applied is completely irrelevant - a filament bulb will generate the same light on 230v rms AC or indeed DC
98elise said:
I believe both of you are right. Filament bulbs do flicker, but not to the point where they are on/off. They work by glowing hot, so during the lower/zero voltage parts of the cycle they will dim.
This is why they can be used to observe a turntable strobe, but as I said - it can be a bit tricky, because the light never actually turns off, or dims sufficiently to achieve the required contrast for a decent strobe effect, whereas a neon lamp does basically turn off.I know that some machinists won't use a lathe under an incandescent bulb because of the strobe effect. This does seem to affect some people more than others.
Another prime example of this, was the old CRT monitors that use interlacing for higher resolutions - some could see the flicker introduced by the interlacing, and others couldn't. I could see it, and I couldn't work with a monitor in that mode.
Back in 1989 (durin' the war etc) I bought a Gyrodeck, Audiolab 8000a amp and Allison CD7 speakers. Used that set up for years until upgrading the Allisons for Ruark Talisman 2's with Ruark Dialogue 1 and rural Epilogue 1's together with a Marantz CD63 signature again for quite any. of years. Using the man maths principle of eldest son now having his own room and clearly in need of a wee system of his own, the audiolab, cd 63 and talismans were duly gifted (on a pain of death if damaged agreement.......) your truly did some shopping late last year.
The Gyrodec got a rebuild/service with new caps in the power supply and new cartridge on the Linn Akito arm, added a Rega Elicit-R amp, Rega Saturn-R CD player and pair of Spendor A4's. Connected them together with Linn cable and Chord interconnect and the upgrade in clarity, space and detail was just fab (in my wee world anyway). Even connecting the old MAC up to the DAC in the player gives a good tune too!
As usual it highlighted weakness in the surround dept. for movies. I only listen to music in stereo format and we already had a Yamaha RX1030 power wise and a REL T5 sub, so added B&W HTM4 diamond centre channel and Monitor Audio Bronze FX for the rears and just change the cables over and use the Spendors for the fronts. The B&W is just tremendous and the little MA FX's bounce the rear channels around brilliantly. Was always worried spending on an upgrade wouldn't give much of a boost but after some EQ'ing through the Yamaha to balance things out it was night and day difference. Chuffed!
The Gyrodec got a rebuild/service with new caps in the power supply and new cartridge on the Linn Akito arm, added a Rega Elicit-R amp, Rega Saturn-R CD player and pair of Spendor A4's. Connected them together with Linn cable and Chord interconnect and the upgrade in clarity, space and detail was just fab (in my wee world anyway). Even connecting the old MAC up to the DAC in the player gives a good tune too!
As usual it highlighted weakness in the surround dept. for movies. I only listen to music in stereo format and we already had a Yamaha RX1030 power wise and a REL T5 sub, so added B&W HTM4 diamond centre channel and Monitor Audio Bronze FX for the rears and just change the cables over and use the Spendors for the fronts. The B&W is just tremendous and the little MA FX's bounce the rear channels around brilliantly. Was always worried spending on an upgrade wouldn't give much of a boost but after some EQ'ing through the Yamaha to balance things out it was night and day difference. Chuffed!
TonyRPH said:
This is why they can be used to observe a turntable strobe, but as I said - it can be a bit tricky, because the light never actually turns off, or dims sufficiently to achieve the required contrast for a decent strobe effect, whereas a neon lamp does basically turn off.
I know that some machinists won't use a lathe under an incandescent bulb because of the strobe effect. This does seem to affect some people more than others.
Another prime example of this, was the old CRT monitors that use interlacing for higher resolutions - some could see the flicker introduced by the interlacing, and others couldn't. I could see it, and I couldn't work with a monitor in that mode.
I thought I'd see if I could get a photo of a strobe disc illuminated by incandescent light. The photo doesn't show terribly well, but it's clear enough using the Mk1 eyeball. The ring in question is the very outermost one. 33 1/3 rd, 50 Hz.I know that some machinists won't use a lathe under an incandescent bulb because of the strobe effect. This does seem to affect some people more than others.
Another prime example of this, was the old CRT monitors that use interlacing for higher resolutions - some could see the flicker introduced by the interlacing, and others couldn't. I could see it, and I couldn't work with a monitor in that mode.
This is in full daylight with a floor lamp lit next to the turntable. It's perfectly useable, but would be clearer when it's dark outside.
A neon would make it clearer still, but I don't have one.
Fermit and Sexy Sarah said:
STiG911 said:
Bonefish Blues said:
I had a Nakamichi Cassette Deck 2 bitd.
Oh dear lord, Yes. 
I remember when I found how much in-car Nakamichi head units cost...
t in their cars'Philistine.
I always wanted the in dash multi changer but I never had enough money and I heard it was hopelessly unreliable.
I still look at in car audio. It's so cheap now but I wonder how good it is?
Fairly modest compared to many here but I liked the sound of the Missions so I bought two pairs, and two LK100s to drive them.
I always wanted a Karik too - for almost exactly 30 years - and they're quite reasonably-priced when they crop-up now but the Sonos is my main source. I have started to buy CDs when I find them at throw-away prices. I have about a thousand now. I never collected vinyl and I think it's too late to bother, but I started with a half-decent CD collection, so it's probably worth persisting with that now.
I tested my hearing recently and discovered I can only hear up to about 12KHz, so anything better would be lost on me now. I look for sound that fills the room but without competing with people talking. I used to have a pair of big JBLs but their tweeters were so bright that you couldn't talk over them, and I found myself always turning them down when people were around. The Linns/Missions are the opposite - you can have them almost indecently loud and still talk quite comfortably.
I always wanted a Karik too - for almost exactly 30 years - and they're quite reasonably-priced when they crop-up now but the Sonos is my main source. I have started to buy CDs when I find them at throw-away prices. I have about a thousand now. I never collected vinyl and I think it's too late to bother, but I started with a half-decent CD collection, so it's probably worth persisting with that now.
I tested my hearing recently and discovered I can only hear up to about 12KHz, so anything better would be lost on me now. I look for sound that fills the room but without competing with people talking. I used to have a pair of big JBLs but their tweeters were so bright that you couldn't talk over them, and I found myself always turning them down when people were around. The Linns/Missions are the opposite - you can have them almost indecently loud and still talk quite comfortably.
stickylabels said:
Back in 1989 (durin' the war etc) I bought a Gyrodeck, Audiolab 8000a amp and Allison CD7 speakers. Used that set up for years until upgrading the Allisons for Ruark Talisman 2's with Ruark Dialogue 1 and rural Epilogue 1's together with a Marantz CD63 signature again for quite any. of years. Using the man maths principle of eldest son now having his own room and clearly in need of a wee system of his own, the audiolab, cd 63 and talismans were duly gifted (on a pain of death if damaged agreement.......) your truly did some shopping late last year.
The Gyrodec got a rebuild/service with new caps in the power supply and new cartridge on the Linn Akito arm, added a Rega Elicit-R amp, Rega Saturn-R CD player and pair of Spendor A4's. Connected them together with Linn cable and Chord interconnect and the upgrade in clarity, space and detail was just fab (in my wee world anyway). Even connecting the old MAC up to the DAC in the player gives a good tune too!
As usual it highlighted weakness in the surround dept. for movies. I only listen to music in stereo format and we already had a Yamaha RX1030 power wise and a REL T5 sub, so added B&W HTM4 diamond centre channel and Monitor Audio Bronze FX for the rears and just change the cables over and use the Spendors for the fronts. The B&W is just tremendous and the little MA FX's bounce the rear channels around brilliantly. Was always worried spending on an upgrade wouldn't give much of a boost but after some EQ'ing through the Yamaha to balance things out it was night and day difference. Chuffed!
Amazing centre speaker why not match it up with some 803 or 804d’s?The Gyrodec got a rebuild/service with new caps in the power supply and new cartridge on the Linn Akito arm, added a Rega Elicit-R amp, Rega Saturn-R CD player and pair of Spendor A4's. Connected them together with Linn cable and Chord interconnect and the upgrade in clarity, space and detail was just fab (in my wee world anyway). Even connecting the old MAC up to the DAC in the player gives a good tune too!
As usual it highlighted weakness in the surround dept. for movies. I only listen to music in stereo format and we already had a Yamaha RX1030 power wise and a REL T5 sub, so added B&W HTM4 diamond centre channel and Monitor Audio Bronze FX for the rears and just change the cables over and use the Spendors for the fronts. The B&W is just tremendous and the little MA FX's bounce the rear channels around brilliantly. Was always worried spending on an upgrade wouldn't give much of a boost but after some EQ'ing through the Yamaha to balance things out it was night and day difference. Chuffed!
heisthegaffer said:
Beautiful deck.
I always wanted the in dash multi changer but I never had enough money and I heard it was hopelessly unreliable.
I still look at in car audio. It's so cheap now but I wonder how good it is?
Both that and the car are the 'ones which got away'I always wanted the in dash multi changer but I never had enough money and I heard it was hopelessly unreliable.
I still look at in car audio. It's so cheap now but I wonder how good it is?
Sold the utterly immaculate 2002 172 Cup with 49K for £3500. Check out their values now
Mars said:
Fairly modest compared to many here but I liked the sound of the Missions so I bought two pairs, and two LK100s to drive them.
I always wanted a Karik too - for almost exactly 30 years - and they're quite reasonably-priced when they crop-up now but the Sonos is my main source. I have started to buy CDs when I find them at throw-away prices. I have about a thousand now. I never collected vinyl and I think it's too late to bother, but I started with a half-decent CD collection, so it's probably worth persisting with that now.
I tested my hearing recently and discovered I can only hear up to about 12KHz, so anything better would be lost on me now. I look for sound that fills the room but without competing with people talking. I used to have a pair of big JBLs but their tweeters were so bright that you couldn't talk over them, and I found myself always turning them down when people were around. The Linns/Missions are the opposite - you can have them almost indecently loud and still talk quite comfortably.
Pleased to hear your system is sounding good...........you may be aware of this already but if not, the bass mid drivers used in your Mission speakers become very brittle / fragile as they get older. It's not the age per se, the degradation is as a consequence of the cone, over time, being exposed to UV light. The polypropylene used to make the cone is not UV stable in it's raw state and it degrades and becomes brittle / friable.......black / dark versions of driver cones which the same base polyprop material do not suffer from the same problem. This is because the darker versions invariably use carbon as the pigment; the carbon gives a high degree of protection from the damage caused by the UV.I always wanted a Karik too - for almost exactly 30 years - and they're quite reasonably-priced when they crop-up now but the Sonos is my main source. I have started to buy CDs when I find them at throw-away prices. I have about a thousand now. I never collected vinyl and I think it's too late to bother, but I started with a half-decent CD collection, so it's probably worth persisting with that now.
I tested my hearing recently and discovered I can only hear up to about 12KHz, so anything better would be lost on me now. I look for sound that fills the room but without competing with people talking. I used to have a pair of big JBLs but their tweeters were so bright that you couldn't talk over them, and I found myself always turning them down when people were around. The Linns/Missions are the opposite - you can have them almost indecently loud and still talk quite comfortably.
If you've arrived at a sound that really works for you, the speakers will last longer, and continue to sound the same
if you can limit the amount of direct sunlight that reaches the cones. The degradation still happens, albeit at a reduced rate, when the speakers grilles are used.Edited by Crackie on Tuesday 25th May 06:39
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