Zonal music - Sonos alternatives?
Discussion
paralla said:
Singe the impedance of two pairs of 8 Ohm speakers is 4 Ohms when connected in parallel and since the Sonos Amp is rated down to 4 Ohms, a parallel speaker switch (QED WM15) is better suited than a series speaker switch (QED WM17).
If any of the speakers are less than 8 Ohms you should use a QED WM17 to ensure you don't overload the Amp.
Thanks was going to go for If any of the speakers are less than 8 Ohms you should use a QED WM17 to ensure you don't overload the Amp.
Monitor Audio C165 6.5"
I have Monitor Audio CP165’s (similar to C165’s but with a closed back) in the kitchen and bathroom, they have been great for 8 years since I installed them (powered by a couple of old 55W/Ch Sonos Connect Amps) and they get used every day.
C165’s are 8 Ohms so you defo want the parallel speaker switch. I have a similar speaker switch that switches one of the Connect Amps between the kitchen speakers and the roof terrace speakers. It’s in the boiler cupboard where the Amp is. It’s not pretty but it works. The only issue I have is remembering that music is playing up on the terrace when I come down and close the door. It’s been known to be on for a week.
C165’s are 8 Ohms so you defo want the parallel speaker switch. I have a similar speaker switch that switches one of the Connect Amps between the kitchen speakers and the roof terrace speakers. It’s in the boiler cupboard where the Amp is. It’s not pretty but it works. The only issue I have is remembering that music is playing up on the terrace when I come down and close the door. It’s been known to be on for a week.
Edited by paralla on Friday 2nd July 21:38
Edited by paralla on Friday 2nd July 21:50
Zoon said:
And therein lies your problem. You are trying to do the impossible.
Indeed, it is impossible. When I first had a go at this, LMS was the only answer, and streaming barely existed. Video standards have changed (I have a beautiful Yamaha DSP- A1000 amp that has s-video connections FFS).I would be inclined to separate the sources from the amplification and playback if at all possible. Sources are where the technical innovation happens, amps and speakers will work until the capacitors fail. Unfortunately, manufacturers would much rather you bought some integrated thing that they sell for £1500 rather than a simple source for £100.
rxe said:
I would be inclined to separate the sources from the amplification and playback if at all possible. Sources are where the technical innovation happens, amps and speakers will work until the capacitors fail. Unfortunately, manufacturers would much rather you bought some integrated thing that they sell for £1500 rather than a simple source for £100.
Hopefully I am achieving some of this.The hard bit is installing the speakers and running all the cables, that will all be done and go to an amplification area, source will increasingly be streamed and online but I have a hankering for buying a turntable and playing my vinyl again which should be easy enough to link up via the many cat6 sockets around the house
paralla said:
I have Monitor Audio CP165’s (similar to C165’s but with a closed back) in the kitchen and bathroom, they have been great for 8 years since I installed them (powered by a couple of old 55W/Ch Sonos Connect Amps) and they get used every day.
Thanks - should I go for the CP? Budget is 100-150 per speaker though given the limitations of ceiling speakers I am not sure it’s worth spending more than 165sOP I've been down exactly the same route you're taking. I would agree about separating sources and amps.
I would do 1 of the following:
1)If you just want Spotify, get a dedicated 16 channel (for 8 zones) amp with signal sensing, such as the Russound D1650
(€950 https://www.amazon.com/Russound-D1650-16-Channel-M... and add ethernet Spotify streamers such as the August WR-320 (£44) to each channel:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/WiFi-Audio-Receiver-Multi...
You name each WR-320 the same as the room it's in and when you open Spotify on your phone, you choose the room you want and the amp turns on automatically when it detects the input from that WR-320.
2) If you want Spotify but also radio and or other sources per zone, get a "proper" combination multiroom amp/source selector unit (with in-wall keypads if iPhone control is not enough for you) such as a Russound MCA-88 which will give you 40w RMS per channel in each zone. You may need to add an extra stereo amp or 2 for zone 7 and 8 which are just line out I believe.
I would do 1 of the following:
1)If you just want Spotify, get a dedicated 16 channel (for 8 zones) amp with signal sensing, such as the Russound D1650
(€950 https://www.amazon.com/Russound-D1650-16-Channel-M... and add ethernet Spotify streamers such as the August WR-320 (£44) to each channel:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/WiFi-Audio-Receiver-Multi...
You name each WR-320 the same as the room it's in and when you open Spotify on your phone, you choose the room you want and the amp turns on automatically when it detects the input from that WR-320.
2) If you want Spotify but also radio and or other sources per zone, get a "proper" combination multiroom amp/source selector unit (with in-wall keypads if iPhone control is not enough for you) such as a Russound MCA-88 which will give you 40w RMS per channel in each zone. You may need to add an extra stereo amp or 2 for zone 7 and 8 which are just line out I believe.
Adam. said:
paralla said:
I have Monitor Audio CP165’s (similar to C165’s but with a closed back) in the kitchen and bathroom, they have been great for 8 years since I installed them (powered by a couple of old 55W/Ch Sonos Connect Amps) and they get used every day.
Thanks - should I go for the CP? Budget is 100-150 per speaker though given the limitations of ceiling speakers I am not sure it’s worth spending more than 165sBut if you don't need ease of install, then spend any extra money that you would have spent on the CP on moving up the range.
Adam. said:
Thanks - should I go for the CP? Budget is 100-150 per speaker though given the limitations of ceiling speakers I am not sure it’s worth spending more than 165s
I got a good deal on the CP165's but I do like them and their closed backs. Seems to me that the speaker designer/manufacturer can design and build a better enclosure than I could (or could be bothered to). I don't know why more ceiling speakers don't come with enclosures. Far less noise leakage to the rooms above and no need to fit fire rated hoods.When we move house and I do it again I'll probably go up to an 8 inch driver for a slightly better low frequency response. I added a small 5 inch powered sub to the kitchen which transforms the sound but obviously isn't as neat as just a pair of ceiling speakers.
https://www.gear4music.com/Recording-and-Computers...
Thanks Driller, that’s exactly the sort of option ideas I was after.
I think I need option 2 as I certainly want to play radio and other sources through the speakers. Looks like 4 zone switchable amps are about £1000 each, I am starting to think the savings are not worth the hassle when Sonos can sync to radio, my NAS music library and Prime so easily
I think I need option 2 as I certainly want to play radio and other sources through the speakers. Looks like 4 zone switchable amps are about £1000 each, I am starting to think the savings are not worth the hassle when Sonos can sync to radio, my NAS music library and Prime so easily
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