won't start after 18 months
Discussion
Gents a bit of help please.
After an 18 month period of the Griff being stuck in a garage its time to get her out and up and running again ( divorce preventing getting her out as rented house doesnt have a garage)
So tried to start her, dead battery, to note I did put a gallon of new fuel in at this point.
New Battery in, turned over great, but no fuel pump priming,
Checked fuses as I have the glow when they blow type, Still no joy.
Changed the two main relays to the injectors and fuel pumps for new. Still no joy
I've been on the phone to carl baker the alarms man for several hours with my head in the foot well with a volt meter as it was a suspected immobiliser fault. still no joy.
Finally tonight tried a direct 12v feed from the ignition to the fuel pump to see if it primed and kept running, but nothing.
I was on the thoughts that is was the immobiliser that had gone wrong, but now I think its the pump.
Access is limited with the soon to be ex wife so don't want to keep trying things if im barking up the wrong tree or keep buying bits in a hope they will work.
Help
After an 18 month period of the Griff being stuck in a garage its time to get her out and up and running again ( divorce preventing getting her out as rented house doesnt have a garage)
So tried to start her, dead battery, to note I did put a gallon of new fuel in at this point.
New Battery in, turned over great, but no fuel pump priming,
Checked fuses as I have the glow when they blow type, Still no joy.
Changed the two main relays to the injectors and fuel pumps for new. Still no joy
I've been on the phone to carl baker the alarms man for several hours with my head in the foot well with a volt meter as it was a suspected immobiliser fault. still no joy.
Finally tonight tried a direct 12v feed from the ignition to the fuel pump to see if it primed and kept running, but nothing.
I was on the thoughts that is was the immobiliser that had gone wrong, but now I think its the pump.
Access is limited with the soon to be ex wife so don't want to keep trying things if im barking up the wrong tree or keep buying bits in a hope they will work.
Help
Put 12v direct onto the pump from a battery using both positive and negative wires. If the pump does not run reverse the connections to try and run it backwards. If it does then try running it forwards again.
The pump has plastic vanes that slide in slots in the side of a drum. the tips of the vanes rub against the pump housing. If the vanes are jammed running it backwards can sometimes free it.
Steve
The pump has plastic vanes that slide in slots in the side of a drum. the tips of the vanes rub against the pump housing. If the vanes are jammed running it backwards can sometimes free it.
Steve
I've only put 12v positive direct from the battery with no joy on the pump turning, i'll try at the weekend the negative as well and see what happens.
I'm not convinced I don't have an immobiliser problem as well so i'm going to stick 12v on the power feed to the pump and trace it back to relay, if I get 12 volts there then it is the pump if not then ?? as the relay is doing its job in normal configuration. but I think there might be something wrong between relay and pump as well as the pump. If this is the case apart from the obvious fuse issue, where can I start to trace the wire from the relay all the way back to the pump.
I'm not convinced I don't have an immobiliser problem as well so i'm going to stick 12v on the power feed to the pump and trace it back to relay, if I get 12 volts there then it is the pump if not then ?? as the relay is doing its job in normal configuration. but I think there might be something wrong between relay and pump as well as the pump. If this is the case apart from the obvious fuse issue, where can I start to trace the wire from the relay all the way back to the pump.
Each step I give here I'm assuming the pump runs.
Start at the pump and prove it is working with pos and neg direct to the pump.
Next prove that the pump is correctly earthed.
Next go and pull the relay. Put +12v onto pin position 87 on the relay base. There are two 87s so find the one with the black wire + white purple.
Next put a jumper wire from pin position 30 across to 87. Pin 30 is permanent live from Fuse 13.
If the pump runs when tested but does not run when powered from pin 87 then the fault is immobiliser, inertia switch or the connector in the base of the B pillar.
Steve
Start at the pump and prove it is working with pos and neg direct to the pump.
Next prove that the pump is correctly earthed.
Next go and pull the relay. Put +12v onto pin position 87 on the relay base. There are two 87s so find the one with the black wire + white purple.
Next put a jumper wire from pin position 30 across to 87. Pin 30 is permanent live from Fuse 13.
If the pump runs when tested but does not run when powered from pin 87 then the fault is immobiliser, inertia switch or the connector in the base of the B pillar.
Steve
You may find this helpful:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/fuel-pump-schematic.ht...
As Steve D says it could be either of those but also the two multiway plug/sockets, one in the passenger footwell the other behind the dash. The plug/socket by the B post is a very common culprit.
http://www.bertram-hill.com/fuel-pump-schematic.ht...
As Steve D says it could be either of those but also the two multiway plug/sockets, one in the passenger footwell the other behind the dash. The plug/socket by the B post is a very common culprit.
Edited by Loubaruch on Tuesday 16th October 11:50
Thanks Gents all good stuff and you have confirmed all my thoughts. One I didn't thing of was putting a false negative as well as positive from the battery directly to the pump. How easy is it to get at the negative without removing the wheel. Ive done the positive several times and with limit space around the car, only want to go down the wheel off route once every test has been completed with the already obvious conclusion has been confirmed.
You need to get to the terminals on the pump, either remove or move them so you can supply a positive and negative connection.
A couple of wires from any size 12v battery will do.
My Chim pump is marked + and - and has push connectors, some are screwed on, on here's a photo of mine
.
The yellow wire on mine has had the suppressor chopped off, not by me.
HTH
A couple of wires from any size 12v battery will do.
My Chim pump is marked + and - and has push connectors, some are screwed on, on here's a photo of mine
.
The yellow wire on mine has had the suppressor chopped off, not by me.
HTH
well having been back under the car this morning to finally nail down the problem. It helps if you are measuring the voltage on the +ve cable and not the earth 
Anyway the cars electrics are doing what they should, So went ahead and took the fuel pump out.
I then hooked it up to a spare battery just to see if it would run and nothing, well when I say nothing it sort of jolts but does not spin, that to me says its seized, or is there some quirk that the pump realises there is no fuel and stops pumping, I thought it would just run and run.
I just want to be 100% before I order a new pump tonight?
Anyway the cars electrics are doing what they should, So went ahead and took the fuel pump out.I then hooked it up to a spare battery just to see if it would run and nothing, well when I say nothing it sort of jolts but does not spin, that to me says its seized, or is there some quirk that the pump realises there is no fuel and stops pumping, I thought it would just run and run.
I just want to be 100% before I order a new pump tonight?
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