Impact wrenches
Discussion
Davie said:
My mechanic uses Milwaukee stuff. Seems pretty good and ridiculously powerful. Looking at ~£400 for a gun plus battery however.
This, however for personal use, I would definitely look at their 12v range. I love my M12 stubby, light enough you can put it on a belt loop & about £200 for the gun & battery. Rediculously powerful for its size. Thanks guys. So far it is looking like the Cordless Impact Driver is the way to go and I appreciate all the comments and recommendation regarding these tools.
The use I would put the tool to would be on my Land Rover Discovery S2, and three older classic cars I maintain, so torque capability is important. Nothing worse than an IW that only does just a few nuts on the car. So what is the minimum torque necessary i wonder?
I run mainly Makita/De Walt tools normally, with associated chargers and batteries so these would be a good brand route.
Obviously using a smaller stubby IW would get me into those more difficult suspension areas as opposed to a big MF of a IW.
And of course price is important £150'ish would be in order.
Your views?
The use I would put the tool to would be on my Land Rover Discovery S2, and three older classic cars I maintain, so torque capability is important. Nothing worse than an IW that only does just a few nuts on the car. So what is the minimum torque necessary i wonder?
I run mainly Makita/De Walt tools normally, with associated chargers and batteries so these would be a good brand route.
Obviously using a smaller stubby IW would get me into those more difficult suspension areas as opposed to a big MF of a IW.
And of course price is important £150'ish would be in order.
Your views?
ninjag said:
We've got one of those DEWALT DCF899N-XJ 18V LI-ION XR BRUSHLESS CORDLESS IMPACT Wrench from Screwfix, will be over budget once you add a battery but nothing stops this thing. We use it everyday on the hgv fleet.
Does anyone have its little brother, the DCF894? They’re about the same price but the 894 looks more suited to working on cars rather than trucks due to being more compact - is it any use though?The DCF894 is about the same price as the DCF899 is £160 but only half the torque 447/950 nm. OK its lighter as opposed to the DCF899 at 1.5Kg, the DCF899 is 2.6Kg but hey we are all big boys aren't we?
My issue would be could the DCF894 remove rusted caliper and suspension bolts, wheel nuts and importantly: hub nuts on my Land Rover S2D.
I guess it's easier to get in there but will it do the job?
My issue would be could the DCF894 remove rusted caliper and suspension bolts, wheel nuts and importantly: hub nuts on my Land Rover S2D.
I guess it's easier to get in there but will it do the job?
Toaster Pilot said:
Does anyone have its little brother, the DCF894? They’re about the same price but the 894 looks more suited to working on cars rather than trucks due to being more compact - is it any use though?
I have the DCF880 and I'm really impressed with it - very compact and light, great for buzzing normal bits off etc. Not up to super tricky tasks, but I have a mains-powered Clarke one for the heavy jobs. The only annoyance is the detente pin that holds the socket on - it's shaped so it simply won't come out of a socket that has a through-hole fixing, like most impact sockets do.Steve-sau6c said:
The DCF894 is about the same price as the DCF899 is £160 but only half the torque 447/950 nm. OK its lighter as opposed to the DCF899 at 1.5Kg, the DCF899 is 2.6Kg but hey we are all big boys aren't we?
My issue would be could the DCF894 remove rusted caliper and suspension bolts, wheel nuts and importantly: hub nuts on my Land Rover S2D.
I guess it's easier to get in there but will it do the job?
It’s the easier to get in there bit I’m concerned with - especially on smaller cars rather than things like Land Rovers. My issue would be could the DCF894 remove rusted caliper and suspension bolts, wheel nuts and importantly: hub nuts on my Land Rover S2D.
I guess it's easier to get in there but will it do the job?
Krikkit said:
I have the DCF880 and I'm really impressed with it - very compact and light, great for buzzing normal bits off etc. Not up to super tricky tasks, but I have a mains-powered Clarke one for the heavy jobs. The only annoyance is the detente pin that holds the socket on - it's shaped so it simply won't come out of a socket that has a through-hole fixing, like most impact sockets do.
Even smaller isn’t it? Good at removing bolts from suspension parts and stuff like that? I've got the Milwaukee unit - expensive but absolutely worth the money, never been beaten yet - just an aweome bit of kit. I've bought a few over the years and they've all been disappointing except for the Milwaukee. Whatever you buy I would say there is a direct correlation between voltage and capability - anything under 18v just seems feeble - just IME.
Order66 said:
I've got the Milwaukee unit - expensive but absolutely worth the money, never been beaten yet - just an aweome bit of kit. I've bought a few over the years and they've all been disappointing except for the Milwaukee. Whatever you buy I would say there is a direct correlation between voltage and capability - anything under 18v just seems feeble - just IME.
My Milwaukee M18CHIWF12 has not had any problems with Hub nuts and suspension bolts on my Disco 3 over the last couple of years.Got snapon and milwaukee cordless in the workshop. not a lot of difference between the two. im told the milwaukee is more powerful but no noticeable difference. 3/8" drive impact gun is a bit pointless but 1/2" is good for stubborn suspension bolts and tight hub nuts. always go cordless. guns are pretty cheap but batteries are pricey. once youve got a battery theyre mostly interchangeable between other powertools. I do like to try a breakerbar or long ratchet before jumping straight on the impact gun though as its more controlled but old jag hub nuts can be a ball ache to undo unless youve got a 3/4" breaker bar so out comes the impact gun
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