Changing starter motor advice

Changing starter motor advice

Author
Discussion

TVRSJW

Original Poster:

216 posts

71 months

Tuesday 21st May 2019
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Hi all

Had another thread about a starter issue and have ordered a starter motor as recommended by forum members on searching older PH threads ? whilst searching it leads me to believe the top bolt is very difficult to access and remove without the right tools ?

Could someone clarify if I need an 8mm Allen head socket and what length extension ? And any other advice ? I have a basic tool kit and axle stands etc....

I’ve replaced about 3 starter motors in my life so no expert !! So still at the stage of do I take this on or hand it over to a workshop more due to time as have no garage so can’t have the TVR blocking my drive on axle stands or having to push it etc if I had garage would take it on and if I got stuck or needed more items could tackle it later hence the questions

Will also take the advice of members about connections and the health of the main feed cable from battery although being nearly 7ft can’t imagine I’m going to be able to replace this myself having no tools for making the connections as would rather this be done with the correct crimping tool again unless someone can advise otherwise ?

Thanks


Moose v8

204 posts

67 months

Tuesday 21st May 2019
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Firstly before you start disconnect battery, you say have basic tool kit need 3/8 socket set 8mm Allen socket , 8" extension bar a wobble end makes it easier, 13 mm spanner and a pair of long nose pliers to remove electrical spade connection , can be done within a hour regarding the main feed connection is that the problem?

phazed

21,844 posts

205 months

Tuesday 21st May 2019
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^^^^^^

Once you realise where the top bolt is you can get your hand in above the starter motor and put the 8mm Allen head socket directly in the bolt.

As said, DISCONNECT battery.

Belle427

9,003 posts

234 months

Tuesday 21st May 2019
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The cable is a pig to get at but well worth checking.
If you were to measure the old one and send me the length id make it up for you, just pay me for the cable used as i have lugs for the ends but would need to buy cable.

Plan B

347 posts

126 months

Tuesday 21st May 2019
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While you’re doing that you might want to consider wrapping the new starter in foil backed heat insulation blanket retained with stainless steel cable ties. These starter motors die young due to heat ingress and doing this will greatly help the replacement motor’s lifespan.

TVRSJW

Original Poster:

216 posts

71 months

Tuesday 21st May 2019
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Brilliant guys !!!

Got a mate that will bring round the required tools suggested now I can tell him what’s needed !!

Belle427 thank you so much for the kind offer ! Happened to mention to another mate and he said his work place have the cable and ends and crimping tool but great to know there people kind enough to offer so thank you !

Thanks All !!

Belle427

9,003 posts

234 months

Wednesday 22nd May 2019
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Good luck with it, I ran mine through some flexible plastic 20 mm electrical conduit just for added protection.

jazzdude

900 posts

153 months

Thursday 23rd May 2019
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Which starter motor did you buy after researching the other threads|?

Xcore

1,346 posts

91 months

Thursday 23rd May 2019
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2...

I bought this one and fitted it abit an hour ago, worked a treat!

TVRSJW

Original Poster:

216 posts

71 months

Thursday 23rd May 2019
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Yes I ordered the same one as above link as others have said they had also and had no issues (there is a thread about not wasting money on buying the expensive ones and these ones for around £65 are good )

Mine turned up from same seller as link above but in white box ?

Looking at fitting mine sat when got some time and get me hands on the correct tools !!

Also looking at future date (when my mate can make one up) at replacing the main battery to starter cable

I hear lots on hot start with lots of different solutions and causes but mine is doing the solenoid click stone cold every now and then and oddly when engine has been hot starts first time ?

Read elsewhere that some have also put an “emergency push switch” inside car with direct ignition wire to starter if they ever get hot start again (like at petrol station)

I was also going to get some heat reflective tape and wrap it before fitting to help with heat soak

At the price of the starter it’s worth fitting new one it will soon let me know if it’s my issues or related to ignition switch ? I had immobiliser issues with my last Chim and I bypassed the starter circuit but.......it did a similar thing but no click from solenoid , meaning it was the meta starter relay under dash top , mine clicks at solenoid so fingers crossed the new starter sorts occasional issue and fitting new 7ft cable is belt and braces for the future !


crowfield

434 posts

159 months

Thursday 23rd May 2019
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When I did mine, I used a 3/8 drive air ratchet, 8" extension and a long 8mm allen socket. This made removal of the bolts easy as I didn't need to swing a ratchet in a tight space, just pull the trigger. As someone has already said, the top bolt can be reached and you can guide the allen key into it. It's tight if you have large hands like me, but still do-able. If using a normal ratchet, there is not a lot of space to swing it and the bolts can be very tight, so I highly recommend an air ratchet. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you start , undo the 2 fixing allen bolts then you can drop the starter and twist it round a little to get to the nut holding the cables on. T

Steve_D

13,749 posts

259 months

Thursday 23rd May 2019
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If you plan to replace the main cable then at the same time run a new (heavier gauge) cable the the solenoid. The TVR one is on the thin side. On my car I have done this and used the empty relay 2 position on the fusebox for some added oomph to the start circuit.

Steve

Belle427

9,003 posts

234 months

Friday 24th May 2019
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Steve_D said:
If you plan to replace the main cable then at the same time run a new (heavier gauge) cable the the solenoid. The TVR one is on the thin side. On my car I have done this and used the empty relay 2 position on the fusebox for some added oomph to the start circuit.

Steve
Any chance of posting up a few mote details such as terminals required for relay base?


Steve_D

13,749 posts

259 months

Friday 24th May 2019
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Belle427 said:
Steve_D said:
If you plan to replace the main cable then at the same time run a new (heavier gauge) cable the the solenoid. The TVR one is on the thin side. On my car I have done this and used the empty relay 2 position on the fusebox for some added oomph to the start circuit.

Steve
Any chance of posting up a few mote details such as terminals required for relay base?
Relay 2 has a permanent supply internal to the fusebox.
It has an internal earth for the coil.
The output connects internally to fuse 15.

So to use this you will need a relay, a fuse and two connections on the back of the fusebox for which you will need to source some terminals.

Bring the start signal wire from the ignition switch via the immobiliser or direct (your choice) and connect to Connector D pin 85l.
Connect the wire going to the start solenoid to connector E pin 87la.

Steve

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

110 months

Friday 24th May 2019
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For those that like to keep things simple....
A solenoid of the below type fitted on or close to the bulkhead in the engine bay gives the benefit of being able to easily crank the engine over if needed during servicing and the added benefit of being able to override the cars starter circuit wiring when or if it fails
These solenoids are far more robust than any plastic cased relay and are built to handle higher current draws for far more operations than a standard relay can handle

The manual override button is on the top of the solenoid

phazed

21,844 posts

205 months

Saturday 25th May 2019
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What a good idea.

TVRSJW

Original Poster:

216 posts

71 months

Saturday 25th May 2019
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Ok everyone

Firstly thank you all for your help and advice and offers of help !!! Learnt so much on the subject !

Today fitted new starter motor once ordered all the right bits and pieces inc trolley jack and axle stands !!!

and yes if like me you have massive hands what a PITA !! I wrapped solenoid and starter body in sliver/chrome heat reflective waterproof tape to at least try and reflective heat away will it make a difference ? No idea but did it anyway !

The battery cables looked fresh “ish” to me and quite thick so I believe they are not 20 years old and have been replaced at some point so cleaned them all up sanded all connections started straight away !!

Went belt and braces and removed old battery and to my surprise it was an 063 size !!!!!!!!! And looked quite old so took box to motor factors and squeezed in 075 battery refitted and feels nice to know I have a much bigger battery on the car !

It fires instantly now no more annoying click !!

Knowing what I know now it’s all fairly straight forward just a pain getting at the bolts but like everything if you have never done the job before it’s nice to know all the pitfalls and likely items needed ! And good to know the main cable is not in fact 20 years old and weedy !!!

Thanks all !!!

Steve_D

13,749 posts

259 months

Sunday 26th May 2019
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Well done.
What do you plan to do next? Body off chassis refurb?

When on a roll and all that.

Steve

Edited by Steve_D on Sunday 26th May 16:48

TVRSJW

Original Poster:

216 posts

71 months

Sunday 26th May 2019
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Lol.......baby steps

Belle427

9,003 posts

234 months

Sunday 26th May 2019
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It's a slippery slope now!