DIY Plastering

Author
Discussion

saleen836

11,125 posts

210 months

Monday 26th March 2012
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Muncher said:
What's the general consensus on dry lining the walls and ceilings yourself, then getting a plasterer to apply the skin coat. I have around 800sqm to do, both walls and ceilings...
If your getting it drylined you could always then get it taped/jointed, a lot less chance of it cracking!

stuartmmcfc

8,664 posts

193 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
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I'm assuming that what he meant was he was going to put the boards up and then tape the joints ready for the skim coat.
If you don't tape the joints they will crack regardless if you dry line them or apply a skim coat of plaster!

saleen836

11,125 posts

210 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
stuartmmcfc said:
I'm assuming that what he meant was he was going to put the boards up and then tape the joints ready for the skim coat.
If you don't tape the joints they will crack regardless if you dry line them or apply a skim coat of plaster!
And what i meant was he could get the whole lot taped/jointed instead of having it plastered.

magooagain

10,013 posts

171 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
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If plasterboard is fixed to metal rail studwork it rarely cracks or to a metal rail drop ceilng. Its when it is fixed to new timber you start to have problems with cracking.

Just to clarify.
If you tape a joint you are prepairing for tape and joint finish. If you skrim the joint you are prepairing for a skim plaser finish.

stuartmmcfc

8,664 posts

193 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
magooagain said:
If plasterboard is fixed to metal rail studwork it rarely cracks or to a metal rail drop ceilng. Its when it is fixed to new timber you start to have problems with cracking.

Just to clarify.
If you tape a joint you are prepairing for tape and joint finish. If you skrim the joint you are prepairing for a skim plaser finish.
Although I'm well out of it now, I'd always tape a joint on plasterboard to be on the safe side, regardless on to what it's fixed or how its to be finished.
Metal doesn't expand/contract but it does flex- particularly if some half witted sparks is working on it laugh.
Old skool I know, but it was how I was taught.

Intresting though how the same term means slightly different things in different parts of the country- "skrim" to me instantly makes me think of a roll of hesian we used before the "new fangled" tape came in smile

mattnunn

14,041 posts

162 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
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You'll spend £100 on tools and plaster and make a st job of it.


saleen836

11,125 posts

210 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
magooagain said:
If plasterboard is fixed to metal rail studwork it rarely cracks or to a metal rail drop ceilng. Its when it is fixed to new timber you start to have problems with cracking.

Just to clarify.
If you tape a joint you are prepairing for tape and joint finish. If you skrim the joint you are prepairing for a skim plaser finish.
You can also scrim the joint for tape and joint finish!

magooagain

10,013 posts

171 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
quotequote all
saleen836 said:
magooagain said:
If plasterboard is fixed to metal rail studwork it rarely cracks or to a metal rail drop ceilng. Its when it is fixed to new timber you start to have problems with cracking.

Just to clarify.
If you tape a joint you are prepairing for tape and joint finish. If you skrim the joint you are prepairing for a skim plaser finish.
You can also scrim the joint for tape and joint finish!
Aye true dat.

dickymint

24,412 posts

259 months

Tuesday 27th March 2012
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Just to clarify. Dry lining has got nothing to do with plastering. Unless of course you decide to plaster over it! hehe

stuartmmcfc

8,664 posts

193 months

Wednesday 28th March 2012
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correct smile

GTIR

Original Poster:

24,741 posts

267 months

Wednesday 28th March 2012
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Well, I ended up wallpapering (with ceiling paper?) it and it looks fine and it'll look better painted. I did a small patch with plaster on the wall and it looks great!

That's £250 saved!