Adjustable bookcases - predirlled timber

[Shoestringracer]

HI,

I'm going to build 3 sets of adjustable bookcases. They need to fit a specific hole, and will be about 1500mm high, 800mm wide and about 300mm deep. The plan is to have either a local or online timber merchant cut everything to length first so all I'm really doing is designing my own flat pack, though I cold of course cut it all to size myself. I could ask the merchant to put a recess in the uprights to allow for a flush fitting metal strip like this: http://www.marchesironmongery.co.uk/flat-bookcase-...
but I'd rather have lots of little holes accurately drilled for pegs like they are in the insides of
kitchen units. Can you buy timber like this? If so, where from and what do you ask for?

Thanks

[Simpo Two]

I doubt you can but stand to be corrected.

If it was me I'd set up a pillar drill with a fence and depth stop and make the line of holes myself - but you will need reasonable DIY skills to do it neatly and accurately.

[NorthDave]

I cant think of any examples but I am sure there are companies on-line where you put in your measurements and they will ship a flat pack unit built to your dimensions.

I'll try to remember the details if no one else posts them up first.

[Eggman]

Put 'bookshelves made to measure' into google and you will be surprised how many companies do this, either as flatpacks or fitted, and from mdf or proper wood. I've just been browsing the website of a company that appears to make very nice ones indeed - tempting.

[shunaphil]

You have a couple of choices - either buy a 'shelf drilling jig' from axminster power tools or similar outlet which is designed for exactly the purpose you describe - they are not that cheap - you might also get a cheaper one from ebay. Alternatively borrow (or maybe hire for a day) a router with bit to cut out the strip recess (practice on some scrap timber first) - use a fence or batten to stay accurate - you will also need a small chisel to square off the end of the recess.

The drilling jig is the simplest to use of the two options (and presumably you already have a drill. Drill the holes with a 'lip and spur' drill bit (rather than a general purpose hss one) as it will give you a cleaner hole, and make sure you use a depth stop so you dont drill through the timber!

[MJG280]

I was looking at adjustable shelving but it all looked time consuming and I had a lot of work on finishing our extension so just went for the timber yard cutting it up for me. They did a perfect job and I managed not to mess up. In use we don't have any need to adjust shelves as I made allowance for different shelf heights. If you go with the timber yard cutting make sure that you can get the backing board big enough. The timber is 20mm.

I mounted it on the wall and framed round it with chipboard flooring.

[Mandat]

Buy a number of the IKEA Billy bookcases (they come in various sizes and finishes) and cut them down to size to suit.

[Shoestringracer]

Mandat said:

Buy a number of the IKEA Billy bookcases (they come in various sizes and finishes) and cut them down to size to suit.

Thanks, I did think of that but they are chipboard so won't cut down neatly. Also, they don't fit the hole in proportion (it is wide but not very high).

[Shoestringracer]

shunaphil said:

You have a couple of choices - either buy a 'shelf drilling jig' from axminster power tools or similar outlet which is designed for exactly the purpose you describe - they are not that cheap - you might also get a cheaper one from ebay. Alternatively borrow (or maybe hire for a day) a router with bit to cut out the strip recess (practice on some scrap timber first) - use a fence or batten to stay accurate - you will also need a small chisel to square off the end of the recess.

The drilling jig is the simplest to use of the two options (and presumably you already have a drill. Drill the holes with a 'lip and spur' drill bit (rather than a general purpose hss one) as it will give you a cleaner hole, and make sure you use a depth stop so you dont drill through the timber!

Thanks, if I can I'll get the timber merchant to put in the recess. If they can't then I'll go with the jig. Out of interest they are quite a lot cheaper here.http://www.rutlands.co.uk/hand-tools/drill-bits/shelf-drilling-templates/J0303/shelf-drilling-jig

[Shoestringracer]

MJG280 said:

I was looking at adjustable shelving but it all looked time consuming and I had a lot of work on finishing our extension so just went for the timber yard cutting it up for me. They did a perfect job and I managed not to mess up. In use we don't have any need to adjust shelves as I made allowance for different shelf heights. If you go with the timber yard cutting make sure that you can get the backing board big enough. The timber is 20mm.

I mounted it on the wall and framed round it with chipboard flooring.

Looks good, but adjustibility is important for my plans. I agree: I think timber yard cutting it up is defo the way ahead.

[Shoestringracer]

Could I save myself £150 for the jig by marking it out? Or using a cheap plastic one?

[annodomini2]

Shoestringracer said:

Could I save myself £150 for the jig by marking it out? Or using a cheap plastic one?

Yup, just measure 400 times, pilot all the holes and use a pillar drill.

[annodomini2]

You may be able to use the holes in a piano hinge as a marking guide.

[Shoestringracer]

I did it! In the end I used a piano hinge and I clamped 3 of the uprights together used the hinge as a guide. I made 4 bays so 8 uprights. This worked absolutely fine! But I had to be careful to keep the drill staight otherwise it would have exaggerated any error by the third board. Much more of a problem was that the timber (I used pine from Jewsons) had a warp in it. However, our house is 300 years old and not a line is straight. It often happens that things that are mounted horizontal using a spirit level look wrong because they are parallel to the floor / celing (which are not notmally parallel to each other, or even flat) or perpendicular to the walls. So with carefull matching and the books on, it doesn't notice. I'm pleased I made them adjustable too as I am already altered them from what I was expecting to use.

If I knew how to post a picture I would!

[hairyben]

Bit late I guess, but I did something similar using a laser level to mark. Although using a laser is definitely more PH.

[psychoR1]

Check out jali.co.uk they do made to measure unfinished.

[Rosscow]

I could have done this for you, pre-drilled the holes for the adjustable shelf studs and supplied the studs!

But I didn't read the thread.

Sorry

[Shoestringracer]

Rosscow said:

I could have done this for you, pre-drilled the holes for the adjustable shelf studs and supplied the studs!

But I didn't read the thread.

Sorry

It'l be there for future searchers.

[Lunablack]

Shoestringracer said:

It'l be there for future searchers.

I used to work in a factory that made all of the library furniture for pretty much the whole of the UK (closed now sadly)

End panels and shelves made from solid maple just so you know, the standard hole centres for the adjustable shelves was 20mm

We had MULTI drill machines with special gearboxes that could drill about 75 holes in one hit, all perfectly spaced at 20mm...