Best Wifi enabled thermostat
Discussion
AW10 said:
markiii said:
anyone used Heatmiser?
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HTH
clockworks said:
markiii said:
just installed the first part of my evohome.
is it just me or is the app pretty pants?
on one of my tablet it refuses to show ful screen showing just at phone size in teh middle.
on another tablet that works but if you dare rotate the tablet it not only trys to reconnect to Honeywell it insist you login again wtaf?
I tried the app when I first fitted Evohome 3 or 4 years ago. It didn't work very well, haven't used it since.is it just me or is the app pretty pants?
on one of my tablet it refuses to show ful screen showing just at phone size in teh middle.
on another tablet that works but if you dare rotate the tablet it not only trys to reconnect to Honeywell it insist you login again wtaf?
I’ve had my wiser system set up for about 6 months now and generally very happy with it.
However, one of the rad thermostats is eating through batteries, replaced twice already and half way through the 3rd pair, whereas none of the others are even showing less than full power on original batteries.
Likely I have a dodgy one?
However, one of the rad thermostats is eating through batteries, replaced twice already and half way through the 3rd pair, whereas none of the others are even showing less than full power on original batteries.
Likely I have a dodgy one?
mrpbailey said:
I’ve had my wiser system set up for about 6 months now and generally very happy with it.
However, one of the rad thermostats is eating through batteries, replaced twice already and half way through the 3rd pair, whereas none of the others are even showing less than full power on original batteries.
Likely I have a dodgy one?
Speculation on my part but might it have the weakest signal so the batteries are working the hardest to keep the link up? Try swapping with the one nearest the hub and see if the problem moves as well?However, one of the rad thermostats is eating through batteries, replaced twice already and half way through the 3rd pair, whereas none of the others are even showing less than full power on original batteries.
Likely I have a dodgy one?
AW10 said:
Speculation on my part but might it have the weakest signal so the batteries are working the hardest to keep the link up? Try swapping with the one nearest the hub and see if the problem moves as well?
I can’t say for certain but I don’t think it’s that, as this one is on the 1st floor and I have stats on the 2nd floor (further from the hub) with no issuesMeprobamate chic said:
Gary C said:
And Tado have finally added the option to prevent a stat from firing up the boiler if you want. Useful for the kids/guest rooms to prevent them from running the system 24hr a day 
You've been able to do that forever - you just need to phone them.shady lee said:
Wiser stuffvgave me PTSD, things losing range, turning off left right and centre.
To give a counter experience - our Wiser install has been faultless for the two years its been in now, and the one problem I did have with the actual install process (a single valve not opening properly), customer service was unexpected good (probably the single best customer service experience I've ever had from any major company, in fact). kambites said:
shady lee said:
Wiser stuffvgave me PTSD, things losing range, turning off left right and centre.
To give a counter experience - our Wiser install has been faultless for the two years its been in now, and the one problem I did have with the actual install process (a single valve not opening properly), customer service was unexpected good (probably the single best customer service experience I've ever had from any major company, in fact). I'm looking for some advice on installing a Wiser hub if anyone can help? I can't quite work out from research what system type we have (S-plan/Y-plan etc). We have a combi boiler (Greenstar 30CDi) with no hot water storage. The boiler runs radiators in most of the house, and UFH in one room. UFH is controlled by a wireless controller which activates a separate zone valve - this part of the system will be left alone for now as I apparently can't get it to work with Wiser as things stand. The radiators are operated through another zone valve, and are controlled by a wired Honeywell programmer and a wired Honeywell thermostat.
I need to change the programmer backplate, because it doesn't allow space for the Wiser hub to fit, though the pins/connections are the same layout. What I don't understand is the wiring to the existing backplate. Looking at the wiring diagrams it seems like there are too many things connected to some of the terminals, and I don't know what they do, or how they should be transferred to the Wiser hub backplate.
For extra confusion, the programmer is 2-channel, but only the CH part is used. If anyone can assist, please don't think you can over-explain any of this to me. I'm reasonably smart (and studied engineering), but AC electrics and heating systems are not my area of expertise, so pitching it as you would to a five-year-old is probably about right
I need to change the programmer backplate, because it doesn't allow space for the Wiser hub to fit, though the pins/connections are the same layout. What I don't understand is the wiring to the existing backplate. Looking at the wiring diagrams it seems like there are too many things connected to some of the terminals, and I don't know what they do, or how they should be transferred to the Wiser hub backplate.
For extra confusion, the programmer is 2-channel, but only the CH part is used. If anyone can assist, please don't think you can over-explain any of this to me. I'm reasonably smart (and studied engineering), but AC electrics and heating systems are not my area of expertise, so pitching it as you would to a five-year-old is probably about right
Edited by Prawo Jazdy on Monday 5th April 10:27
Edited by Prawo Jazdy on Monday 5th April 10:54
Edited by Prawo Jazdy on Monday 5th April 10:55
Can you post the model number of the Honeywell controller currently in use?
Some controllers also act as a wiring centre for the central heating electrics so the boiler wiring, thermostat wiring and zone valve wiring all end up together in one place - the controller's backplate. Changing the controller to the Wiser one will be a little more complicated but still quite achievable.
Some controllers also act as a wiring centre for the central heating electrics so the boiler wiring, thermostat wiring and zone valve wiring all end up together in one place - the controller's backplate. Changing the controller to the Wiser one will be a little more complicated but still quite achievable.
Of course - it's an ST9400C.
Thanks.
(on a separate note - now that I've opened up the thermostat and seen that it is earthed, should I be concerned that the programmer isn't? It says it is double insulated, but I find it odd that the back plate has an earth connection which isn't used.)
Thanks.
(on a separate note - now that I've opened up the thermostat and seen that it is earthed, should I be concerned that the programmer isn't? It says it is double insulated, but I find it odd that the back plate has an earth connection which isn't used.)
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