Sharpening lawn mower blades
Discussion
I have one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Multi-Sharp-Cylinder-Mow...
Works perfectly.
Basically - you adjust the cylinder all the way up. Bolt this device to the lower cutter blade. Then slowly and evenly screw the cylinder back down with the cylinder spinning. The sand paper that you stick onto the device sharpens the blade.
Works perfectly.
Basically - you adjust the cylinder all the way up. Bolt this device to the lower cutter blade. Then slowly and evenly screw the cylinder back down with the cylinder spinning. The sand paper that you stick onto the device sharpens the blade.
Dr Doofenshmirtz said:
I have one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Multi-Sharp-Cylinder-Mow...
Works perfectly.
Basically - you adjust the cylinder all the way up. Bolt this device to the lower cutter blade. Then slowly and evenly screw the cylinder back down with the cylinder spinning. The sand paper that you stick onto the device sharpens the blade.
Surely that's only half a job though if you don't sharpen the bottom blade at the same time?Works perfectly.
Basically - you adjust the cylinder all the way up. Bolt this device to the lower cutter blade. Then slowly and evenly screw the cylinder back down with the cylinder spinning. The sand paper that you stick onto the device sharpens the blade.
renmure said:
Best suggestion is to use grinding paste along the bottom blade then run the cylinder in reverse whilst adjusting the gap and backlap the blades to get them sharper. Remember to wash it off tho before running them forwards.
^^^^this, only remove spark plug first then remove side cover of mower, removal will show fan belt and large hexagon nut. Place valve grinding paste along edge of bottom blade, above cylinder blade, at either side of mower are two (2) pozi screws, adjust these until cylinder blade is just touching bottom blade. Then with a socket on the above hexagon nut, turn cylinder in the opposite direction to normal operating direction.Once cylinder blade has been sharpened, remove grinding paste. To rest cylinder blade to bottom blade, place an A4 piece of blade between bottom blade and cylinder, turn hexagon nut in normal operating direction, adjusting each pozi screw, until the A4 paper is cut equally across the page. Replace cover.
I've just picked up a 24" Webb and after having a read around, backlapping appears to be the correct thing to do. In fact having your blade re-ground should only be done if it is damaged.
Anyone got any tips? I see suggestion to use a water based paste rather than oil based so it can be washed off easily. Hopefully it's easy enough to spin the blades backwards on a 24" Webb...
Anyone got any tips? I see suggestion to use a water based paste rather than oil based so it can be washed off easily. Hopefully it's easy enough to spin the blades backwards on a 24" Webb...
Esseesse said:
I've just picked up a 24" Webb and after having a read around, backlapping appears to be the correct thing to do. In fact having your blade re-ground should only be done if it is damaged.
Anyone got any tips? I see suggestion to use a water based paste rather than oil based so it can be washed off easily. Hopefully it's easy enough to spin the blades backwards on a 24" Webb...
I have successfully used Valve grinding paste.Anyone got any tips? I see suggestion to use a water based paste rather than oil based so it can be washed off easily. Hopefully it's easy enough to spin the blades backwards on a 24" Webb...
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