Replacing a kitchen worktop without re-tiling
Discussion
As per title really. If I get hold of a replacement with the same dimensions, can I just swap them over and re-seal the edges? Is there anything I need to watch out for?
I'd rather not have to re-tile if at all possible as the whole kitchen is going to get re-done in a couple of years time, but the worktops are in a real state and starting to rot behind the sink (it's the cheap wood block type).
Thanks.
I'd rather not have to re-tile if at all possible as the whole kitchen is going to get re-done in a couple of years time, but the worktops are in a real state and starting to rot behind the sink (it's the cheap wood block type).
Thanks.
Yes, it can be done.
But, when removing the old worktop, there is a real chance of damaging / popping off the old tiles.
Cut the silicone sealing the top to the tiles and rake out the grout between the tiles and the worktop, hopefully the tiler will not have been lazy and rested the tiles directly on the top.
But, when removing the old worktop, there is a real chance of damaging / popping off the old tiles.
Cut the silicone sealing the top to the tiles and rake out the grout between the tiles and the worktop, hopefully the tiler will not have been lazy and rested the tiles directly on the top.
Neil - YVM said:
Yes, it can be done.
But, when removing the old worktop, there is a real chance of damaging / popping off the old tiles.
Cut the silicone sealing the top to the tiles and rake out the grout between the tiles and the worktop, hopefully the tiler will not have been lazy and rested the tiles directly on the top.
But, when removing the old worktop, there is a real chance of damaging / popping off the old tiles.
Cut the silicone sealing the top to the tiles and rake out the grout between the tiles and the worktop, hopefully the tiler will not have been lazy and rested the tiles directly on the top.
I had a huge row with a tiler on this forum some time ago about this very point, and he insisted that resting them on the worktop was correct,
To the OP,
As far as removing the worktop is concerned, this is something I have been involved with several times, and one snag is that quite often, when the worktop is released from its holding screws it will spring up somewhere depending on which way it curves (most of them have a degree of warp which is flattened out when they are screwed down) and the WT will push against the underside of the tiles which is 98.2% of cases are indeed resting on the worktop. It might be worth lowering the units if possible to prevent this, or at least having someone push down anywhere the worktop is pushing up, and try tipping the WT if possible so the back edge moves down a bit.
Tricky stuff though, it's worth a try but the chances are you will break or at least crack some. You could maybe get some matching upstand for the new worktop to cover the cracked tiles if any, with a steel splashback behind the hob.
No reason why it cant be done well if you take your time. The only tricky bit i have found when i have done it in the past is joints in the top. If done properly they will have a layer of silicone between them as well as the bolts. It can be hard to break this seal and coax the tops apart and out if they are siliconed and a snug fit against the return wall.
It can usually be done, in fact we do it all the time. The only issues are usually relating to the thickness of the old and new worktops, ie some old laminate or wood can be 28/27mm thick, where as alot of new worktops can be 40mm.
Also is the design of the kitchen tops is in a 'U' shape it can make it tricky to remove the old ones..
Singlecoils suggestion is a good one, lower the legs on the units slightly, to release any potential pressure against the tiles, this does work!
Its also a good opportunity to change the sink etc to a new model as well.
Also is the design of the kitchen tops is in a 'U' shape it can make it tricky to remove the old ones..
Singlecoils suggestion is a good one, lower the legs on the units slightly, to release any potential pressure against the tiles, this does work!
Its also a good opportunity to change the sink etc to a new model as well.
My outlaws have just had their workshops replaced without replacing any of the tiles - although they probably could and should have 
- so I guess they had something of the same thickness tops? They also changed their sink, waste disposal unit and, thankfully, their bloody awful taps which always dripped! I think the savings on dripping water will pay for the replaced work tops in no time! 
- so I guess they had something of the same thickness tops? They also changed their sink, waste disposal unit and, thankfully, their bloody awful taps which always dripped! I think the savings on dripping water will pay for the replaced work tops in no time! E36GUY said:
There's a company out there (I will try to find the name) who can replace the worktops by going straight over what's there already. They did an absolutely amazing job on my Mum's kitchen.
Could that be Granite Transformations? Quite expensive IIRC, similar price to actual granite, but less hassle of course.
Thanks for all the replies folks, plenty to think about there.
The tip about lowering the units first is a good one. Will give that a go if possible, but as the kitchen was fitted by the previous owners (and his DIY skills are questionable based on the evidence we've seen elsewhere) I'm fully expecting to find absolutely everything nailed and/or glued to the walls wherever it was possible
Alternatively, I've seen some laminate ones in Argos of all places which are the same depth.
As mentioned, this is really just to tart it up a bit for a couple of years until we can get the whole thing re-done exactly how we want.
The tip about lowering the units first is a good one. Will give that a go if possible, but as the kitchen was fitted by the previous owners (and his DIY skills are questionable based on the evidence we've seen elsewhere) I'm fully expecting to find absolutely everything nailed and/or glued to the walls wherever it was possible
Griff Boy said:
It can usually be done, in fact we do it all the time. The only issues are usually relating to the thickness of the old and new worktops, ie some old laminate or wood can be 28/27mm thick, where as alot of new worktops can be 40mm.
I've already checked this. The worktop is 28mm deep and Ikea still sell the same one, so we could do a direct replacement. We'd just need to keep on top of maintaining/oiling it.Alternatively, I've seen some laminate ones in Argos of all places which are the same depth.
As mentioned, this is really just to tart it up a bit for a couple of years until we can get the whole thing re-done exactly how we want.
singlecoil said:
I'm glad to hear it. When I was doing it as part of my business I occasionally came across one like that too.
Just a case of slicing the sealant out along the back with regard to tile damage.I have neglected to mention me, trying to be helpful, moving the ceramic Smeg hob into the utility room out of the way, and it slipping about a centimetre out of my hands onto the slate floor. Guess what happened...?
On the upside we now have two matching "domino" hobs, one normal and one induction. And I can heartily recommend LV insurance.
Dog Star said:
singlecoil said:
I'm glad to hear it. When I was doing it as part of my business I occasionally came across one like that too.
Just a case of slicing the sealant out along the back with regard to tile damage.
How did you get on with replacing worktops?
Nothing wrong with mine but wife wants granite tops, who am I to argue
My tiler (wife)used a spacer between worktop and tiles so they are not resting on worktop as such.
Granite supplier/fitter doesn't offer removal of exsisting tops
Regards
Ken May
Nothing wrong with mine but wife wants granite tops, who am I to argue
My tiler (wife)used a spacer between worktop and tiles so they are not resting on worktop as such.
Granite supplier/fitter doesn't offer removal of exsisting tops
Regards
Ken May
Ken May said:
How did you get on with replacing worktops?
Nothing wrong with mine but wife wants granite tops, who am I to argue
My tiler (wife)used a spacer between worktop and tiles so they are not resting on worktop as such.
Granite supplier/fitter doesn't offer removal of exsisting tops
Regards
Ken May
Most worktops are 40mm thick, whereas most granite is 30mm thick, so you will have to resolve that problem, possibly by raising the units 10mm. Removing the existing tops shouldn't be too difficult as long as you find and remove ALL the screws.Nothing wrong with mine but wife wants granite tops, who am I to argue
My tiler (wife)used a spacer between worktop and tiles so they are not resting on worktop as such.
Granite supplier/fitter doesn't offer removal of exsisting tops
Regards
Ken May
Ken May said:
How did you get on with replacing worktops?
I bottled it in the end The risk of having to do a whole load or remedial work put me off.I ended up stripping them back and making good as best I could, then varnished the bits around the sink to prevent them getting any worse and re-oiled the rest.
It looks a bit crap in places, but it will do until we replace the kitchen in a year or so.
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