Setting out floor tiles
Discussion
jules_s said:
3
But cut the envelope in with the other joints
This.But cut the envelope in with the other joints
Ideally the tiles should be set out symmetrically within the room. and the tiles should follow into the shower tray.
Another possible option would be to use a mosaic version of the tile in the shower zone. This still looks fine, and is much easier to do as the smaller tiles follow the contour of the shower tray without needing to be cut.
Wifey is keen to avoid mosaic due to the abundance of grout lines. Also there is no mosaic version.
I was goin to go wrhi layout 1 to line up all the tiles, but it seems to flout setting out rules...
A symmetrical layout is likely to result in lots of awkward cuts at the tray - I guess I'll have to put up with offset grout lines...
I was goin to go wrhi layout 1 to line up all the tiles, but it seems to flout setting out rules...
A symmetrical layout is likely to result in lots of awkward cuts at the tray - I guess I'll have to put up with offset grout lines...
Well, 2 is the most correct set up IMHO as you've got even cuts around the perimeter of the room. There's always issues with started off a wall with whole tiles , as the room is never 100% square and you'll either find yourself with ever widening grout lines at one edge or trying to shave 3 mm off a tile to get it to fit, also similar issues with doorways, you'll often need to run the tile into the doorway slightly to have it finish under the door, which you can't do if you started in a whole tile....
However I would always follow the lines of the whole tiles into the wet area, personally in wouldn't stagger the joints as per you plans.
However I would always follow the lines of the whole tiles into the wet area, personally in wouldn't stagger the joints as per you plans.
Griff Boy said:
Well, 2 is the most correct set up IMHO as you've got even cuts around the perimeter of the room. There's always issues with started off a wall with whole tiles , as the room is never 100% square and you'll either find yourself with ever widening grout lines at one edge or trying to shave 3 mm off a tile to get it to fit, also similar issues with doorways, you'll often need to run the tile into the doorway slightly to have it finish under the door, which you can't do if you started in a whole tile....
However I would always follow the lines of the whole tiles into the wet area, personally in wouldn't stagger the joints as per you plans.
I agree it is a bit of a conundrum. The default layout is as yo describe, aiming to achieve even cuts at the edges - this leads to offset lines at the shower tray and very awkward crossed envelope cuts which will look like crazy paving. Going with layout 1 from the left, I end up with a 300 half tile down one side of the room, and shaving 10mm of whole tiles at the edge.However I would always follow the lines of the whole tiles into the wet area, personally in wouldn't stagger the joints as per you plans.
Here is a pic of the room so far - I'm attempting to pour self levelling by this weekend. I've set up a dam around the tray to achieve a 6mm lip. The shower screen will sit
wish me luck as it could go completey wrong from here
Bathroom done 1 by mpg Photo's, on Flickr
What self levelling are you using.
I love mapei ultraplan renovation screed.
What self levelling are you using.
I love mapei ultraplan renovation screed.
Edited by matty g on Thursday 27th November 15:18
matty g said:
Bathroom done 1 by mpg Photo's, on Flickr
What self levelling are you using.
I love mapei ultraplan renovation screed.
Going to pour 2 bags of BAL fibre base over it to attain a level of 6mm. Told wifey to get an extra bag just in case it isn't enough.What self levelling are you using.
I love mapei ultraplan renovation screed.
Edited by matty g on Thursday 27th November 15:18
Going to stick the tiles on the floor with BAL single part flex and walls with mosaic fix.
Is that a DIY or pro install? I'm getting varying opinions on what I should do. First quote has come in at 1500 to tile the room with me supplying everything.......
Also, what tile layout would you go with?
stanwan said:
Going to stick the tiles on the floor with BAL single part flex and walls with mosaic fix.
Is that a DIY or pro install? I'm getting varying opinions on what I should do. First quote has come in at 1500 to tile the room with me supplying everything.......
It depends how good you are. The only thing separating a tradesman from a DIYer is knowledge and ability - and the gap can be smaller than you think. BAL have a technical helpline which is handy.Is that a DIY or pro install? I'm getting varying opinions on what I should do. First quote has come in at 1500 to tile the room with me supplying everything.......
stanwan said:
Going to pour 2 bags of BAL fibre base over it to attain a level of 6mm. Told wifey to get an extra bag just in case it isn't enough.
Going to stick the tiles on the floor with BAL single part flex and walls with mosaic fix.
Is that a DIY or pro install? I'm getting varying opinions on what I should do. First quote has come in at 1500 to tile the room with me supplying everything.......
Also, what tile layout would you go with?
Diy build. With my builder cousin. And a Tiler for the tiles. When I say a tiler. He's a tiler end of. Not a plumber who also thinks he can tile. But a Tiler.Going to stick the tiles on the floor with BAL single part flex and walls with mosaic fix.
Is that a DIY or pro install? I'm getting varying opinions on what I should do. First quote has come in at 1500 to tile the room with me supplying everything.......
Also, what tile layout would you go with?
I also put down a decoupling membrane on top of the screed.
Head over to http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/ for info. These guys are proper tilers. If you get a recommendation on there it'll be a good job done
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