Discussion
I had problems with my 5 year old machine failing to dock properly for no apparent reason, all connectors seemed fine........its only on checking connections again the one wire simply broke.......on inspecting the wires again the last 3 inches or so of each was very brittle. Luckily I had enough slack on each to cut back and fit new connectors, now works 100% reliably again.....maybe useful for others to check who are getting warning lights but connections appear OK on basic inspection
Anyone got a Husqvarna Automower 435X or 535?
If so, you should probably switch it off - they have been recalled because they've been catching fire while on charge
More info from Which? here.
If so, you should probably switch it off - they have been recalled because they've been catching fire while on charge
More info from Which? here.
Anyone else find that the blades get dirty/clogged and stop rotating effectively far too often?
Below pics are of my Flymo Easilife. I noticed it didn’t seem to be cutting too well so fitted a new set of blades. The below pictures are 5 days after fitting. They seem to get dirty and clogged between the blade and the rotating disc, then stop rotating freely, so just the centre disc is rotating and not cutting as effective.
I run it on height setting 4.5 out of a max 5. Wondered if there’s anything I can do to stop them getting dirty so often? Tried spraying with wd40 and a spray grease to stop anything sticking but hasn’t helped.
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ugdJRR1t[/url]
Below pics are of my Flymo Easilife. I noticed it didn’t seem to be cutting too well so fitted a new set of blades. The below pictures are 5 days after fitting. They seem to get dirty and clogged between the blade and the rotating disc, then stop rotating freely, so just the centre disc is rotating and not cutting as effective.
I run it on height setting 4.5 out of a max 5. Wondered if there’s anything I can do to stop them getting dirty so often? Tried spraying with wd40 and a spray grease to stop anything sticking but hasn’t helped.
[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/ugdJRR1t[/url]mrpbailey said:
Anyone else find that the blades get dirty/clogged and stop rotating effectively far too often?
Below pics are of my Flymo Easilife. I noticed it didn’t seem to be cutting too well so fitted a new set of blades. The below pictures are 5 days after fitting. They seem to get dirty and clogged between the blade and the rotating disc, then stop rotating freely, so just the centre disc is rotating and not cutting as effective.
I run it on height setting 4.5 out of a max 5. Wondered if there’s anything I can do to stop them getting dirty so often? Tried spraying with wd40 and a spray grease to stop anything sticking but hasn’t helped.
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ugdJRR1t[/url]
Yes, I've noticed that too (also Flymo Easilife). I haven't replaced blades yet (first season still) but I have taken them off, cleaned them, and popped them back on again checking they spin freely - but I suspect they'll be clogged up again now. Doesn't seem to stop it cutting, but better I think to keep them free-spinning somehow.Below pics are of my Flymo Easilife. I noticed it didn’t seem to be cutting too well so fitted a new set of blades. The below pictures are 5 days after fitting. They seem to get dirty and clogged between the blade and the rotating disc, then stop rotating freely, so just the centre disc is rotating and not cutting as effective.
I run it on height setting 4.5 out of a max 5. Wondered if there’s anything I can do to stop them getting dirty so often? Tried spraying with wd40 and a spray grease to stop anything sticking but hasn’t helped.
[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/ugdJRR1t[/url]We have had a Stiga installed about 4 weeks.
Luckily paid for the suppliers to fit, they confirmed the slopes we had were within its capabilities, but it’s a real pain as it just rushes down the slope and can’t reverse back.
Looks to be a traction problem, problem is now with Stiga , but I can’t see a solution without moving to a more capable model .
Luckily paid for the suppliers to fit, they confirmed the slopes we had were within its capabilities, but it’s a real pain as it just rushes down the slope and can’t reverse back.
Looks to be a traction problem, problem is now with Stiga , but I can’t see a solution without moving to a more capable model .
mrpbailey said:
Anyone else find that the blades get dirty/clogged and stop rotating effectively far too often?
Below pics are of my Flymo Easilife. I noticed it didn’t seem to be cutting too well so fitted a new set of blades. The below pictures are 5 days after fitting. They seem to get dirty and clogged between the blade and the rotating disc, then stop rotating freely, so just the centre disc is rotating and not cutting as effective.
I run it on height setting 4.5 out of a max 5. Wondered if there’s anything I can do to stop them getting dirty so often? Tried spraying with wd40 and a spray grease to stop anything sticking but hasn’t helped.
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ugdJRR1t[/url]
Husqvarna now do endurance blades which are different design and will probably fit your mower. I’ve been using them and they dont appear to clog up as much. The other thing maybe worth considering is waiting until the grass is dry in the morning before sending the mower out?Below pics are of my Flymo Easilife. I noticed it didn’t seem to be cutting too well so fitted a new set of blades. The below pictures are 5 days after fitting. They seem to get dirty and clogged between the blade and the rotating disc, then stop rotating freely, so just the centre disc is rotating and not cutting as effective.
I run it on height setting 4.5 out of a max 5. Wondered if there’s anything I can do to stop them getting dirty so often? Tried spraying with wd40 and a spray grease to stop anything sticking but hasn’t helped.
[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/ugdJRR1t[/url]gregch said:
mrpbailey said:
Anyone else find that the blades get dirty/clogged and stop rotating effectively far too often?
Below pics are of my Flymo Easilife. I noticed it didn’t seem to be cutting too well so fitted a new set of blades. The below pictures are 5 days after fitting. They seem to get dirty and clogged between the blade and the rotating disc, then stop rotating freely, so just the centre disc is rotating and not cutting as effective.
I run it on height setting 4.5 out of a max 5. Wondered if there’s anything I can do to stop them getting dirty so often? Tried spraying with wd40 and a spray grease to stop anything sticking but hasn’t helped.
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ugdJRR1t[/url]
Yes, I've noticed that too (also Flymo Easilife). I haven't replaced blades yet (first season still) but I have taken them off, cleaned them, and popped them back on again checking they spin freely - but I suspect they'll be clogged up again now. Doesn't seem to stop it cutting, but better I think to keep them free-spinning somehow.Below pics are of my Flymo Easilife. I noticed it didn’t seem to be cutting too well so fitted a new set of blades. The below pictures are 5 days after fitting. They seem to get dirty and clogged between the blade and the rotating disc, then stop rotating freely, so just the centre disc is rotating and not cutting as effective.
I run it on height setting 4.5 out of a max 5. Wondered if there’s anything I can do to stop them getting dirty so often? Tried spraying with wd40 and a spray grease to stop anything sticking but hasn’t helped.
[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/ugdJRR1t[/url]Not much you can do about the buildup itself as that always happens even on polished or ptfe coated surfaces if the grass is juicy enough.
M1AGM said:
Husqvarna now do endurance blades which are different design and will probably fit your mower. I’ve been using them and they dont appear to clog up as much. The other thing maybe worth considering is waiting until the grass is dry in the morning before sending the mower out?
Wet or thick grass will be the underlying problem but may be unavoidable.The endurance blades look to be made of better material instead of the usual soft cheese, the other advantage is that they're slotted so they'll slide around on the pivot and not get stuck so easily and hopefully self clear.
I think its something you just have to deal with. The blades will naturally get grass and dirt underneath them because there is a gap that allows them to spin in the first place. I typically lift my Worx one up and just scrape out the detritus with my fingernail which is enough for the blades to have free movement again.
Cut perimeter wire - tutorial - well sort of, my experience might help.
Our front garden gets quite long around the edges and being disabled I bought an electric grass shear that has an extendable handle so I can use it from a chair. I had probably cut 50 feet or so when it was noted that the base was flashing meaning there was no wire continuity (Worx Landroid). So I could have cut it anywhere along that stretch possibly multiple times. Our wire has been down for maybe 2 years and has buried itself in a lot of places so not easy to see.
I thought it was going to be nightmare but I’d seen suggestions you could find it using MW radio. With nothing to lose I thought I’d give it a try I found an old Daewoo radio (PH points car theme) charged up some batteries and out we went.
Extended the aerial, switched it on and tuned it away from music channels and pointed the aerial within a few inches of the floor. Initially all we got was static but around 103 metres MW we started to pick up a signal. A little fine tuning later we got a definite buzzing sound where the wire was laid. The sound oscillated a bit like a police siren. If you moved a few feet into the garden it would stop so was definitely picking up the signal from the wire. Then it was relatively easy to follow the wire around the perimeter. Then the sound/signal stopped! Moving on it restarted so proving there was just a single break in the area where the the radio had indicated no signal.
A little pulling up of the wire revealed the break exactly where indicated. What could have been a nightmare job was made easy. Quick trim with a wire stripper then held the ends together and base station showed a constant green light and radio proved continuity used a gel snap connector and added duct tape for extra protection.
Result, working mower.
I hope this proves a useful guide for others
Our front garden gets quite long around the edges and being disabled I bought an electric grass shear that has an extendable handle so I can use it from a chair. I had probably cut 50 feet or so when it was noted that the base was flashing meaning there was no wire continuity (Worx Landroid). So I could have cut it anywhere along that stretch possibly multiple times. Our wire has been down for maybe 2 years and has buried itself in a lot of places so not easy to see.
I thought it was going to be nightmare but I’d seen suggestions you could find it using MW radio. With nothing to lose I thought I’d give it a try I found an old Daewoo radio (PH points car theme) charged up some batteries and out we went.
Extended the aerial, switched it on and tuned it away from music channels and pointed the aerial within a few inches of the floor. Initially all we got was static but around 103 metres MW we started to pick up a signal. A little fine tuning later we got a definite buzzing sound where the wire was laid. The sound oscillated a bit like a police siren. If you moved a few feet into the garden it would stop so was definitely picking up the signal from the wire. Then it was relatively easy to follow the wire around the perimeter. Then the sound/signal stopped! Moving on it restarted so proving there was just a single break in the area where the the radio had indicated no signal.
A little pulling up of the wire revealed the break exactly where indicated. What could have been a nightmare job was made easy. Quick trim with a wire stripper then held the ends together and base station showed a constant green light and radio proved continuity used a gel snap connector and added duct tape for extra protection.
Result, working mower.
I hope this proves a useful guide for others
Edited by elanfan on Tuesday 19th July 15:10
Someone asking about no perimeter wires?
LAWNMASTER VBRM16 24V DROP AND MOW ROBOTIC LAWNMOWER
NEW
£299.99
Simply drop and mow. The convenience of a robot mower without the need for a boundary wire, outdoor power socket or app. Designed especially for UK gardens with lawns up to 100m2. To be used once or twice a week in the daytime in dry weather. Combines a camera and sensors with recognition software to identify grass and navigate around your lawn.
Seems to have its limitations but a cheap step in the right direction.
I have Patrick, a Cleva Lawnmaster L10 at our holiday home which has been okay. Not a patch on Colin our Husqvarna but he does cost over 10 times more..
LAWNMASTER VBRM16 24V DROP AND MOW ROBOTIC LAWNMOWER
NEW
£299.99
Simply drop and mow. The convenience of a robot mower without the need for a boundary wire, outdoor power socket or app. Designed especially for UK gardens with lawns up to 100m2. To be used once or twice a week in the daytime in dry weather. Combines a camera and sensors with recognition software to identify grass and navigate around your lawn.
Seems to have its limitations but a cheap step in the right direction.
I have Patrick, a Cleva Lawnmaster L10 at our holiday home which has been okay. Not a patch on Colin our Husqvarna but he does cost over 10 times more..
"For lawns of up to 100m2. A clearly defined edge around the full perimeter of your lawn, such as paving or gravel, or a raised edge at least 6cm high is required to prevent the mower leaving the grass. Not suitable for gardens with overhanging plants, undefined flower borders or edges with a drop off. Adjustment of lawn borders may be required."
China does like to churn out this tat.
Loads of Yardforce spares on the bay due to that particular Chinese tat mower lasting 5 minutes.
Wonder how long this new one will manage.
OTOH, if your lawn is fully bordered, why not?
It's cheap enough.
China does like to churn out this tat.
Loads of Yardforce spares on the bay due to that particular Chinese tat mower lasting 5 minutes.
Wonder how long this new one will manage.
OTOH, if your lawn is fully bordered, why not?
It's cheap enough.
Well after thinking about it for ages, I finally went into my local Husqvarna dealership in Leyburn.
Chatted to a guy, and they have just sent someone out to measure up for wires etc.
They bury the wires, and thick wires they are too, seem to have an extra sleeve over the wire than the standard I've seen.
The have recommended the 310mk2 with an additional board so that I can app control it (I want this, they certainly didn't push to sell it to me!).
The garden measured is 460m2 and think it was about 180m of cable needed. They have gone away to price it up, I am expecting £2.25-£2.5k.
Then I just need to decide on whether, in good old Pistonheads terms "pull the trigger" or not
Chatted to a guy, and they have just sent someone out to measure up for wires etc.
They bury the wires, and thick wires they are too, seem to have an extra sleeve over the wire than the standard I've seen.
The have recommended the 310mk2 with an additional board so that I can app control it (I want this, they certainly didn't push to sell it to me!).
The garden measured is 460m2 and think it was about 180m of cable needed. They have gone away to price it up, I am expecting £2.25-£2.5k.
Then I just need to decide on whether, in good old Pistonheads terms "pull the trigger" or not
joestifff said:
Well after thinking about it for ages, I finally went into my local Husqvarna dealership in Leyburn.
Chatted to a guy, and they have just sent someone out to measure up for wires etc.
They bury the wires, and thick wires they are too, seem to have an extra sleeve over the wire than the standard I've seen.
The have recommended the 310mk2 with an additional board so that I can app control it (I want this, they certainly didn't push to sell it to me!).
The garden measured is 460m2 and think it was about 180m of cable needed. They have gone away to price it up, I am expecting £2.25-£2.5k.
Then I just need to decide on whether, in good old Pistonheads terms "pull the trigger" or not
I had a 405x installed inc cable buried by a machine for much less than that. Pm me if you want a link/contact. Chatted to a guy, and they have just sent someone out to measure up for wires etc.
They bury the wires, and thick wires they are too, seem to have an extra sleeve over the wire than the standard I've seen.
The have recommended the 310mk2 with an additional board so that I can app control it (I want this, they certainly didn't push to sell it to me!).
The garden measured is 460m2 and think it was about 180m of cable needed. They have gone away to price it up, I am expecting £2.25-£2.5k.
Then I just need to decide on whether, in good old Pistonheads terms "pull the trigger" or not
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff