Has anyone build raised border using (new) oak sleepers
Discussion
Just a minor thread resurrection here!
We are getting some paving done in a couple of months, and we have the option to edge in tanalised softwood timber or untanalised oak (oak costing a bit more).
Reason we are using timber is to allow some raised bits where the lawn is not level (but the tops of the timber can easily be), plus it should look good down one side where they may be exposed for 12-24" in height - so standing 'on end' along the edge.
I have seen some 'spalling' on some other work done with tanalised softwood for a friend (after 6 months).
We trust the landscaper doing it - he will use waterproofing below soil height to prevent the timbers getting over drenched, but is leaving us the choice of timber (he has mostly used softwood, mostly due to cost).
Any views here on whether the untreated ok would be a better bet & worth the extra cost?
The paving will be a light grey, & we feel that oak may 'silver' over time and go better, but other than that we are unsure what to use!
Thanks
We are getting some paving done in a couple of months, and we have the option to edge in tanalised softwood timber or untanalised oak (oak costing a bit more).
Reason we are using timber is to allow some raised bits where the lawn is not level (but the tops of the timber can easily be), plus it should look good down one side where they may be exposed for 12-24" in height - so standing 'on end' along the edge.
I have seen some 'spalling' on some other work done with tanalised softwood for a friend (after 6 months).
We trust the landscaper doing it - he will use waterproofing below soil height to prevent the timbers getting over drenched, but is leaving us the choice of timber (he has mostly used softwood, mostly due to cost).
Any views here on whether the untreated ok would be a better bet & worth the extra cost?
The paving will be a light grey, & we feel that oak may 'silver' over time and go better, but other than that we are unsure what to use!
Thanks
Timely.
We are looking to do a bit of landscaping (read: raised bed and trellis across the bottom of the garden to hide a s
te fence/brambles and an area for general garden detritus (and the odd spare alloy wheel)). We currently have a couple of raised beds each surrounded by old railway sleepers. We have been here for 10 years, previous owners for a few years before, and the owner before that did the garden. As far as I can see they haven't aged at all - still look really rustic. Was going to use these (and a few reclaimed ones if we run out) to do similar 2 sleepers high.
Hoping to do it for a couple of grand in total, certainly not budgeting £12k only to last a few years
We are looking to do a bit of landscaping (read: raised bed and trellis across the bottom of the garden to hide a s
te fence/brambles and an area for general garden detritus (and the odd spare alloy wheel)). We currently have a couple of raised beds each surrounded by old railway sleepers. We have been here for 10 years, previous owners for a few years before, and the owner before that did the garden. As far as I can see they haven't aged at all - still look really rustic. Was going to use these (and a few reclaimed ones if we run out) to do similar 2 sleepers high.Hoping to do it for a couple of grand in total, certainly not budgeting £12k only to last a few years
mikeiow said:
Just a minor thread resurrection here!
We are getting some paving done in a couple of months, and we have the option to edge in tanalised softwood timber or untanalised oak (oak costing a bit more).
Reason we are using timber is to allow some raised bits where the lawn is not level (but the tops of the timber can easily be), plus it should look good down one side where they may be exposed for 12-24" in height - so standing 'on end' along the edge.
I have seen some 'spalling' on some other work done with tanalised softwood for a friend (after 6 months).
We trust the landscaper doing it - he will use waterproofing below soil height to prevent the timbers getting over drenched, but is leaving us the choice of timber (he has mostly used softwood, mostly due to cost).
Any views here on whether the untreated ok would be a better bet & worth the extra cost?
The paving will be a light grey, & we feel that oak may 'silver' over time and go better, but other than that we are unsure what to use!
Thanks
Timber rots more quickly mainly due to water not being able to seep away. So be wary what you do re waterproofing. If the base of the timber is constantly saturated, then this will cause problems very quickly. We are getting some paving done in a couple of months, and we have the option to edge in tanalised softwood timber or untanalised oak (oak costing a bit more).
Reason we are using timber is to allow some raised bits where the lawn is not level (but the tops of the timber can easily be), plus it should look good down one side where they may be exposed for 12-24" in height - so standing 'on end' along the edge.
I have seen some 'spalling' on some other work done with tanalised softwood for a friend (after 6 months).
We trust the landscaper doing it - he will use waterproofing below soil height to prevent the timbers getting over drenched, but is leaving us the choice of timber (he has mostly used softwood, mostly due to cost).
Any views here on whether the untreated ok would be a better bet & worth the extra cost?
The paving will be a light grey, & we feel that oak may 'silver' over time and go better, but other than that we are unsure what to use!
Thanks
I can't see tanalised softwood being a problem as long as water can soak away into the ground.
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff