Painting internal woodwork -argh!
Discussion
Oakey said:
This stuff?
I've used the above and it's stayed white so far, even in the downstairs toilet where there's no natural light.
This stuff was what I went for:I've used the above and it's stayed white so far, even in the downstairs toilet where there's no natural light.
https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/aqua-water...
On a related note, has anyone else had experience with caulk around skirting boards remaining tacky when painted? Mine in my hallway has done this and all the dust and s
t of the day sticks to it and cannot be removed, looks utterly horrendous.
If I recall, it was B&Qs cheapest decorator's caulk going, followed by screwfix bog standard undercoat then Dulux Quickdry Satinwood (both water based) over the top. It has happened on old skirtings with existing paint and also on bare wood that I painted from fresh.
Any ideas, rubbish caulk, wrong paint? Not enough drying time between coats?
t of the day sticks to it and cannot be removed, looks utterly horrendous.If I recall, it was B&Qs cheapest decorator's caulk going, followed by screwfix bog standard undercoat then Dulux Quickdry Satinwood (both water based) over the top. It has happened on old skirtings with existing paint and also on bare wood that I painted from fresh.
Any ideas, rubbish caulk, wrong paint? Not enough drying time between coats?
It has amazed me that decorators chat about this and that . But are happy to buy nasty caulk . I and some good decorators spent some time doing my our "research" and we tried just about everyone we could . On different mediums and paints etc
My opinion is this . Too many guys judge the value of a product based on drying time and cost. The quicker and cheaper the better etc .
Biggest mistake is prep. Good caulk hates any dust . Good caulk does not want to be painted over within a hour etc . It will stretch badly .
3 of use now only use one . It's from screwfix and it's called " No nonsense "
But it's the red and white tube one . Cannot get link on iPhone ! Not the cheaper one . But as mentioned . It does not like any dust . Lay it on .wet it off and bloody leave it alone !
Will edit this with a link later . I never paint over within 4hours no matter what they say . Prep IS the job . You cannot correct it later
My opinion is this . Too many guys judge the value of a product based on drying time and cost. The quicker and cheaper the better etc .
Biggest mistake is prep. Good caulk hates any dust . Good caulk does not want to be painted over within a hour etc . It will stretch badly .
3 of use now only use one . It's from screwfix and it's called " No nonsense "
But it's the red and white tube one . Cannot get link on iPhone ! Not the cheaper one . But as mentioned . It does not like any dust . Lay it on .wet it off and bloody leave it alone !
Will edit this with a link later . I never paint over within 4hours no matter what they say . Prep IS the job . You cannot correct it later
Thanks for the replies.
Yes Brian you're right - I subscribe fully to getting what you pay for. But often when it isn't your area of expertise you don't know what advantages a more expensive product will have (I wouldn't have believed a caulk that remains tacky would even be available for sale!), so tendency is to buy largely on price.
I thought all Screwfix's No Nonsense stuff was fairly budget, I can only find the stuff in the purple tube, no good?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-decorators-c...
I may well have painted over too quickly too, can't remember. Definitely a lesson learned the hard way.
Cheers.
Yes Brian you're right - I subscribe fully to getting what you pay for. But often when it isn't your area of expertise you don't know what advantages a more expensive product will have (I wouldn't have believed a caulk that remains tacky would even be available for sale!), so tendency is to buy largely on price.
I thought all Screwfix's No Nonsense stuff was fairly budget, I can only find the stuff in the purple tube, no good?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-decorators-c...
I may well have painted over too quickly too, can't remember. Definitely a lesson learned the hard way.
Cheers.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-anti-crack-a...
This stuff !
But as I mentioned. Its the combination of paints that can cause issues. Some need a primer of some sort etc .Some caulk do not like certain paints at all.
the technology is changing.But people are reluctant to change with it !
except my good self :-)
This stuff !
But as I mentioned. Its the combination of paints that can cause issues. Some need a primer of some sort etc .Some caulk do not like certain paints at all.
the technology is changing.But people are reluctant to change with it !
except my good self :-)
Jambo85 said:
Interesting, thanks. Reviews are enthusiastic also.
More expensive than some but hardly extortionate, you'd wonder why there is a market for the rubbish..!
The first time you use it.You can feel a big difference . I was also one of the first to use "Windowcare" systems . when all the cowboys still used 2 pac car filler on wood ! and wondered why it did not work. But this only works when a client can afford the best materials .As rich clever people never want to waste money . The finished work lasts a lot longer ,so becomes cheaper .Like a good suit or pair of shoes etc . More expensive than some but hardly extortionate, you'd wonder why there is a market for the rubbish..!
brianashley said:
It has amazed me that decorators chat about this and that . But are happy to buy nasty caulk . I and some good decorators spent some time doing my our "research" and we tried just about everyone we could . On different mediums and paints etc
My opinion is this . Too many guys judge the value of a product based on drying time and cost. The quicker and cheaper the better etc .
Biggest mistake is prep. Good caulk hates any dust . Good caulk does not want to be painted over within a hour etc . It will stretch badly .
3 of use now only use one . It's from screwfix and it's called " No nonsense "
But it's the red and white tube one . Cannot get link on iPhone ! Not the cheaper one . But as mentioned . It does not like any dust . Lay it on .wet it off and bloody leave it alone !
Will edit this with a link later . I never paint over within 4hours no matter what they say . Prep IS the job . You cannot correct it later
http://www.geocel.co.uk/catalogue/single-brand/mates/painters-mateMy opinion is this . Too many guys judge the value of a product based on drying time and cost. The quicker and cheaper the better etc .
Biggest mistake is prep. Good caulk hates any dust . Good caulk does not want to be painted over within a hour etc . It will stretch badly .
3 of use now only use one . It's from screwfix and it's called " No nonsense "
But it's the red and white tube one . Cannot get link on iPhone ! Not the cheaper one . But as mentioned . It does not like any dust . Lay it on .wet it off and bloody leave it alone !
Will edit this with a link later . I never paint over within 4hours no matter what they say . Prep IS the job . You cannot correct it later
Im guessing it's painters mate you are referring to. Not cheap but great stuff and easy to work with.
^ Zinsser Bullseye is a great primer in the right application, but not on new bare wood unfortunately. Zinsser BIN (meths based Shellac paint) is a much better bet and acts as a knotting agent, primer and undercoat all in one go. For new wood it’ll need two good coats. First coat will look awful but it dries quickly and the second coat will see it transformed into a really good solid base ready for your top coat/s. Needs meths for clean up, white spirit won’t work.
You can then use your choice of satinwood, either oil or water based to finish the job. If it’s the latter expect it to take two coats.
You can then use your choice of satinwood, either oil or water based to finish the job. If it’s the latter expect it to take two coats.
Since I last posted on here (2017..!) I now have a new go to product - Tikkurila Otex adhesion primer.
Can get it in oil or water based but I prefer the oil for potential problem areas (old gloss particularly).
The oil dries in 30 mins and can be over coated with water based stuff ( I now use Tikkurila Everal Aqua for woodwork ) and can also be used externally.
That said, I also use Johnstones Aqua undercoat also underneath the Everal - gives a great finish in satin.
Would still always use knotting first though - and if you’re using water based finish coats then white knotting is what you should use.
Can get it in oil or water based but I prefer the oil for potential problem areas (old gloss particularly).
The oil dries in 30 mins and can be over coated with water based stuff ( I now use Tikkurila Everal Aqua for woodwork ) and can also be used externally.
That said, I also use Johnstones Aqua undercoat also underneath the Everal - gives a great finish in satin.
Would still always use knotting first though - and if you’re using water based finish coats then white knotting is what you should use.
That was a blast from the past, OP here, ended up using the following with matching undercoat.
https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/aqua-water...
Two coats of undercoat and two top coats and 5 years on still looks reasonably good. It’s still not as white as it was freshly applied but it’s acceptable.
https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/aqua-water...
Two coats of undercoat and two top coats and 5 years on still looks reasonably good. It’s still not as white as it was freshly applied but it’s acceptable.
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