Patio Grout - what's the best..?
Discussion
Hello all,
Patio project nearing completion and in complete contrast to my usual DIY endeavours, all appears to be going well
Obviously, keen not to make a tremendous cock up at this stage of the game, so, what's the best type of grout to use, the canine's conkers as it were..?
The slabs are a sort of rough edged things, riven I think - colour not massively important - just need something that's not going to turn to dust in 20 mins and is easy enough to use.
Would a simple 3:1 Building sand and Cement do the trick..?
Thanks..!
Patio project nearing completion and in complete contrast to my usual DIY endeavours, all appears to be going well
Obviously, keen not to make a tremendous cock up at this stage of the game, so, what's the best type of grout to use, the canine's conkers as it were..?
The slabs are a sort of rough edged things, riven I think - colour not massively important - just need something that's not going to turn to dust in 20 mins and is easy enough to use.
Would a simple 3:1 Building sand and Cement do the trick..?
Thanks..!
After doing this for nearly 20 years i don't think any are the best iykwim. every jointing method has its issues. The last few years have seen a rise in the sweep in type products and they are actually very very good now.
My favoured product is currently marshalls weathpoint 365. Its very similar to easyjoint but i think its better, it feels stronger. It is also the only compound which doesn't say in small print that the bed the slabs are laid on should be permeable.....
Of course saying the bed should be permeable is a great get out clause. They know full well that almost everyone lays on 5:1 wet mix with well compacted type 1 underneath. After having a whole patios pointing basically fail recently a large manufacturer tried telling me that the bed should be 6:1.
That argument soon fell flat when i pointed out that different cements have different strengths and that some 6:1 mixes may actually be stronger than others 5:1........ imo for sand and cement to be permeable it would need to be about 10:1.......
The resin products are good as well but again they say it should be permeable.......they also leave a residue which does weather off but that can be hard to convince a paying customer when they think its stained for good.
after experience i would say that whatever you use iron it in as well. the marshalls stuff insists on this.
damp sand and cement swept in and ironed is crap and will last a couple of years if your lucky. wet sand and cement struck off with a pointing trowel is good but its a real skill to do, it still runs the risk of little cracks.
Infact thinking about it the best possible joint would be a joint which is part of the bed itself, with joints being struck off as you go. The problem would be though getting an even colour mix, every gauge would have to be mixed exactly which in the real world isn't really viable.
My favoured product is currently marshalls weathpoint 365. Its very similar to easyjoint but i think its better, it feels stronger. It is also the only compound which doesn't say in small print that the bed the slabs are laid on should be permeable.....
Of course saying the bed should be permeable is a great get out clause. They know full well that almost everyone lays on 5:1 wet mix with well compacted type 1 underneath. After having a whole patios pointing basically fail recently a large manufacturer tried telling me that the bed should be 6:1.
That argument soon fell flat when i pointed out that different cements have different strengths and that some 6:1 mixes may actually be stronger than others 5:1........ imo for sand and cement to be permeable it would need to be about 10:1.......
The resin products are good as well but again they say it should be permeable.......they also leave a residue which does weather off but that can be hard to convince a paying customer when they think its stained for good.
after experience i would say that whatever you use iron it in as well. the marshalls stuff insists on this.
damp sand and cement swept in and ironed is crap and will last a couple of years if your lucky. wet sand and cement struck off with a pointing trowel is good but its a real skill to do, it still runs the risk of little cracks.
Infact thinking about it the best possible joint would be a joint which is part of the bed itself, with joints being struck off as you go. The problem would be though getting an even colour mix, every gauge would have to be mixed exactly which in the real world isn't really viable.
Bumping this as I'm just about to point up my new sandstone patio,
currently trying to decide on either:
Sika Fast Fix
https://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-fast-fix-all-weath...
Or
Easyjoint
https://www.jtatkinson.co.uk/azpects-easyjoint-joi...
Marshalls weatherpoint 365 seems around double the price of the two above?
currently trying to decide on either:
Sika Fast Fix
https://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-fast-fix-all-weath...
Or
Easyjoint
https://www.jtatkinson.co.uk/azpects-easyjoint-joi...
Marshalls weatherpoint 365 seems around double the price of the two above?
BaldOldMan said:
It might be double the price, but surely that's an immaterial amount compared to the project cost ?
Your call, but I wouldn't be skimping as pulling it all out a few years down the line will cost a lot more.....
this is true on both counts however the above do get mostly good reviews alsoYour call, but I wouldn't be skimping as pulling it all out a few years down the line will cost a lot more.....
675 Gaz said:
I used the easy joint last year on a new 13m2 patio and highly recommend it.
No signs of any weeds and coming loose yet, my summer project is to remove all the old sand and cement pointing from previous patio and replace.
Not the cheapest option but well worth it in my experience
One of my jobs for this summer is re-pointing a large chunk of our patio. I presume there's no shortcut for removing all the old pointing other than a using a masonry chisel and lump hammer?No signs of any weeds and coming loose yet, my summer project is to remove all the old sand and cement pointing from previous patio and replace.
Not the cheapest option but well worth it in my experience
Harpoon said:
675 Gaz said:
I used the easy joint last year on a new 13m2 patio and highly recommend it.
No signs of any weeds and coming loose yet, my summer project is to remove all the old sand and cement pointing from previous patio and replace.
Not the cheapest option but well worth it in my experience
One of my jobs for this summer is re-pointing a large chunk of our patio. I presume there's no shortcut for removing all the old pointing other than a using a masonry chisel and lump hammer?No signs of any weeds and coming loose yet, my summer project is to remove all the old sand and cement pointing from previous patio and replace.
Not the cheapest option but well worth it in my experience
I've started using a proprietary high flow grout: Mix it up so it's very sloppy, wet the slabs down then the grout is spread overt the slab area using a large squeegee, til all the joints are full. Then the slabs are hosed/pressure washed to remove the excess.
This stuff sets rock hard and will seep down the joints and under the slabs filling any voids. It's a lot stronger and more resilient than any of the brush in jointing products, but you're pretty much limited to light grey in colour.
This stuff sets rock hard and will seep down the joints and under the slabs filling any voids. It's a lot stronger and more resilient than any of the brush in jointing products, but you're pretty much limited to light grey in colour.
Rewe said:
I doubt it is best, but it was convenient to buy.....I repointed my patio with the Wickes grout and it still ok 3 months later.
If it's the brush in type stuff then I hate to say this but this year I'll be digging up loose bits of this again. It's been down 2 years and I reckon I will have had to redo around 10% of it. The amount of 'sand' that appears every time I pressure wash the patio (with circular attachment) shows how much is wearing away each timeGren said:
If it's the brush in type stuff then I hate to say this but this year I'll be digging up loose bits of this again. It's been down 2 years and I reckon I will have had to redo around 10% of it. The amount of 'sand' that appears every time I pressure wash the patio (with circular attachment) shows how much is wearing away each time
Well that's my chips well and truly pissed on!! 
Muppet32 said:
I've started using a proprietary high flow grout: Mix it up so it's very sloppy, wet the slabs down then the grout is spread overt the slab area using a large squeegee, til all the joints are full. Then the slabs are hosed/pressure washed to remove the excess.
This stuff sets rock hard and will seep down the joints and under the slabs filling any voids. It's a lot stronger and more resilient than any of the brush in jointing products, but you're pretty much limited to light grey in colour.
Flowpoint? used it a few times on porcelain but nothing else yet, it does go hard i will say that. Finish not quite as nice as grout though imo.This stuff sets rock hard and will seep down the joints and under the slabs filling any voids. It's a lot stronger and more resilient than any of the brush in jointing products, but you're pretty much limited to light grey in colour.
Regarding easy joint if you use it make sure you strike it off with an iron and dont just sweep off. I do much prefer weather point though and haven't had any issues with that, easy joint i have.
2 part resins are better but a bit less of a diy job, still easy but easier to go wrong.
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