Painting new breeze block x need to “mist” it first?

Painting new breeze block x need to “mist” it first?

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steveatesh

Original Poster:

4,900 posts

164 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
Son wants to paint the walls of a brand new garage with white emulsion. The walls are made of breeze block, or those large grey square blocks with a rough surface, whatever they are Called.

Would it be best if he uses a watered down paint first as you would on new plaster?

Cheers in advance.

RichB

51,587 posts

284 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
You'll get all manner of replies but when I did it I simply got a 25L tub of trade emulsion and put it on with a big brush and a roller. It took two coats to get good coverage.

steveatesh

Original Poster:

4,900 posts

164 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
Cheers Rich beer

Trustmeimadoctor

12,601 posts

155 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
Same except I used textured exterior stuff as it was going cheap when a local diy place was going under just slapped it on two coats and it was done

Eddieslofart

1,328 posts

83 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
Trustmeimadoctor said:
Same except I used textured exterior stuff as it was going cheap when a local diy place was going under just slapped it on two coats and it was done
Personally, a bit of Unibond first to seal it. Breeze/Celcon is like a sponge.

768

13,682 posts

96 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
Thermalite?

I used a few coats of sandtex. Slightly regretted not putting some emulsion on first as it may have been cheaper. Can't see any issue with using it.

clockworks

5,366 posts

145 months

Friday 6th October 2017
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Sandtex Smooth, thinned 50:50, then another coat applied straight. Worked for me on 50 year old blocks

MellowshipSlinky

14,698 posts

189 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
Eddieslofart said:
Personally, a bit of Unibond first to seal it. Breeze/Celcon is like a sponge.
Unibond has no place whatsoever in decorating, save for sealing a wall prior to wallpapering ( and even then it’s not necessary) !

The whole point of a thinned 1st coat of paint is so it soaks into the substrate to promote adhesion.
Unibond (or any PVA) is not needed.

trev540

252 posts

209 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
agree about PVA not being used for decorating works, better and more effective products available, go to a proper Decorators Merchants and ask for advice.
Iwould use a contract emulsion and a long pile roller, add some water but not as much as for new plaster then get stuck in.

Timja

1,921 posts

209 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
Having recently spent hours and hours doing this with a roller and brush I would seriously consider investing in a paint sprayer to try and get into the holes in the block and speed up the process. I have ended up using about 60L of Dulux emulsion to get a good solid white finish.

I did a mist coat 1st then a further 2-3 to get it nice and white. To be fair, I'm sure at times I must have almost been using paint as filler on the holes to cover it, hence suggestion of trying a sprayer!

Screwfix do a long pile roller in a set for around a tenner

Eddieslofart

1,328 posts

83 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
MellowshipSlinky said:
Unibond has no place whatsoever in decorating, save for sealing a wall prior to wallpapering ( and even then it’s not necessary) !

The whole point of a thinned 1st coat of paint is so it soaks into the substrate to promote adhesion.
Unibond (or any PVA) is not needed.
Bob.

MellowshipSlinky

14,698 posts

189 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
Eddieslofart said:
Bob.
Rita.

mart 63

2,070 posts

244 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
Two coats of masonry smooth, 1st coat 25% water. Second coat neat. Job done.

227bhp

10,203 posts

128 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
No you don't, think about it:
If the surface is smooth and shiny it needs something to help paint bond to it. Something sticky or thin that will soak through the shiny surface and grip.
If it's as rough as fk it doesn't - it'll hang on until Hell freezes over.

mart 63

2,070 posts

244 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
227bhp said:
No you don't, think about it:
If the surface is smooth and shiny it needs something to help paint bond to it. Something sticky or thin that will soak through the shiny surface and grip.
If it's as rough as fk it doesn't - it'll hang on until Hell freezes over.
Are you ok mate?

227bhp

10,203 posts

128 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
mart 63 said:
Are you ok mate?
Yeah, U ok hun? Inbox me.

mart 63

2,070 posts

244 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
227bhp said:
mart 63 said:
Are you ok mate?
Yeah, U ok hun? Inbox me.
No thankyou, your packing a lot of power down there.

DoubleSix

11,715 posts

176 months

Friday 6th October 2017
quotequote all
You’ll use a lot less paint if you seal/mist coat first.

mart 63

2,070 posts

244 months

Saturday 7th October 2017
quotequote all
DoubleSix said:
You’ll use a lot less paint if you seal/mist coat first.
Spot on!

227bhp

10,203 posts

128 months

Saturday 7th October 2017
quotequote all
DoubleSix said:
You’ll use a lot less paint if you seal/mist coat first.
No, mist coats don't build as well. You either thin by 50% and put 6 coats on or don't thin and apply 3.