2018 Lawn thread
Discussion
PositronicRay said:
Lawns not bad but only small. Problems with brown spots (dog peeing) and moss
Recommendations will be gratefully received.
I had the same problems.Recommendations will be gratefully received.
For the dog pee get dog rocks, you put them in the dogs water and they do help.
I was advised the following for moss and it has worked. Use copper sulphate (Amazon) to kill the moss, do not let it go on any metal though because it will discolour it. Raise your cut height on your lawnmower to help prevent it coming back. I used to cut my lawn nice and low but I was told this encourages weeds and moss. You want to let the grass re-seed itself before you mow it. It is quite hard getting used to the lawn being longer but it made a big difference.
I use weed and feed a couple of times a year and I also scarify it once a year now too.
Johnnytheboy said:
Is anyone else in the same pickle as me?
My lawn - on very heavy clay - has until now been virtually too wet to mow, and definitely too wet to put any chemicals on.
Now we are faced with two solid weeks of sun so anything I put on will not get watered in.
Sometimes nature just doesn't want to lend a hand My lawn - on very heavy clay - has until now been virtually too wet to mow, and definitely too wet to put any chemicals on.
Now we are faced with two solid weeks of sun so anything I put on will not get watered in.
Iron sulphate for moss - apply in liquid form and no need to water in
Feed - apply in liquid form and no need to water in.
BelfastBlack said:
I haven't done the first cut of the year yet so should I cut the grass on a high setting before I start into it with a rake to get rid of the moss? I'm concerned that raking through thick grass will be painstaking work but I don't know if I should cut before or after of if it doesn't matter.
I would. Raking through long grass is, as you suggest, much harder. I presume that the grass is already getting very long, so the sooner you can get started on gradually bringing it down to normal height the better.fut1a said:
I had the same problems.
For the dog pee get dog rocks, you put them in the dogs water and they do help.
I was advised the following for moss and it has worked. Use copper sulphate (Amazon) to kill the moss, do not let it go on any metal though because it will discolour it. Raise your cut height on your lawnmower to help prevent it coming back. I used to cut my lawn nice and low but I was told this encourages weeds and moss. You want to let the grass re-seed itself before you mow it. It is quite hard getting used to the lawn being longer but it made a big difference.
I use weed and feed a couple of times a year and I also scarify it once a year now too.
Iron sulphate not copper.For the dog pee get dog rocks, you put them in the dogs water and they do help.
I was advised the following for moss and it has worked. Use copper sulphate (Amazon) to kill the moss, do not let it go on any metal though because it will discolour it. Raise your cut height on your lawnmower to help prevent it coming back. I used to cut my lawn nice and low but I was told this encourages weeds and moss. You want to let the grass re-seed itself before you mow it. It is quite hard getting used to the lawn being longer but it made a big difference.
I use weed and feed a couple of times a year and I also scarify it once a year now too.
On my back lawn that is still too sopping wet to cut I have worked out that I have a quite large infestation of Woodrush (it's flowering), sounds like a pain to get rid of. I had noticed the broader leaves last year a bit but hadn't thought too much of it other than assuming it was a broader leaf grass that I'd rather have less of.
So a few weeks ago, I cut the lawn to lowest setting (making a few passes on different heights) then raked the hell out of it. Was a patch of mud at the end 
Watered it and it rained a bit and despite being part in shade, has grown to 6" or so.
Planning to cut again this evening to lowest setting, rake again, aerate using the fork at angle trick, over seed with the Aldi seeds, randomly chuck some Aldi lawn feed over (aldi stuff, contents are iron/magnesium,potassium/pentoxide) and then water.
Don't have a spreader for the lawn feed or seeds - randomly scattering is ok right?
Nor any compost stuff on hand to chuck over the top. Could get some compost if it would make a massive difference??
Is that a good plan? Some advice appreciated
Taken a pic of it:
Watered it and it rained a bit and despite being part in shade, has grown to 6" or so.
Planning to cut again this evening to lowest setting, rake again, aerate using the fork at angle trick, over seed with the Aldi seeds, randomly chuck some Aldi lawn feed over (aldi stuff, contents are iron/magnesium,potassium/pentoxide) and then water.
Don't have a spreader for the lawn feed or seeds - randomly scattering is ok right?
Nor any compost stuff on hand to chuck over the top. Could get some compost if it would make a massive difference??
Is that a good plan? Some advice appreciated
Taken a pic of it:
Edited by hyphen on Tuesday 17th April 10:44
hyphen said:
So a few weeks ago, I cut the lawn to lowest setting (making a few passes on different heights) then raked the hell out of it. Was a patch of mud at the end
Watered it and it rained a bit and despite being part in shade, has grown to 6" or so.
Planning to cut again this evening to lowest setting, rake again, aerate using the fork at angle trick, over seed with the Aldi seeds, randomly chuck some Aldi lawn feed over (aldi stuff, contents are iron/magnesium,potassium/pentoxide) and then water.
Don't have a spreader for the lawn feed or seeds - randomly scattering is ok right?
Nor any compost stuff on hand to chuck over the top. Could get some compost if it would make a massive difference??
Is that a good plan? Some advice appreciated
Taken a pic of it:
Cut it to no more than 1/3rd of the current growth. Repeat this again after 7 days. Believe me, 1/3rd off is plenty and should be your rule of thumb - you only cut low when your lawn needs total renovation to clear the deck.Watered it and it rained a bit and despite being part in shade, has grown to 6" or so.
Planning to cut again this evening to lowest setting, rake again, aerate using the fork at angle trick, over seed with the Aldi seeds, randomly chuck some Aldi lawn feed over (aldi stuff, contents are iron/magnesium,potassium/pentoxide) and then water.
Don't have a spreader for the lawn feed or seeds - randomly scattering is ok right?
Nor any compost stuff on hand to chuck over the top. Could get some compost if it would make a massive difference??
Is that a good plan? Some advice appreciated
Taken a pic of it:
Edited by hyphen on Tuesday 17th April 10:44
Aerate/lift with fork, every 6 inches (backbreaking)
Don't seed and feed - they do not go together very well - either or - at this time of the year a Spring Summer feed is good. Go to www.lawnsmith.co.uk & pick one from there. If you choose to seed, its the perfect time of the year - mild and wet. Grab a handful and flick your wrist is a good enough pattern. Tramp the seed down - it helps to be in contact with the soil.
Don't bother with compost.
When the grass seedlings are at least 4-6 inches in height, then give them their first cut and then just the top off (no more than a 1/3rd of their growth).
Seeding and feeding by hand is fine, but divide into four lots and alternate passes at 90 degrees to get more even coverage. With practice then two passes is fine.
Cutting right back to the lowest setting in one day isn't great for the grasses. You can do it very occasionally as part of extensive renovations if the turf is healthy (or you've given up on the existing grasses), but normally you're much better off gradually lowering the height over several weeks. That gives the grass time to adjust by increasing the number of shoots from each grass plant to maintain the same level of light absorption and ability to photosynthesise, giving you a more desirable thicker sward in the process.
After being cut back hard the grasses have to use their carbohydrate reserves stored in the roots to recover top growth before they can begin to photosynthesise properly. After winter those reserves are already at a low point. Cutting it back hard again for a second time is really going to tax the plants' ability to recover.
That turf is already looking very thin. I would consider overseeding at new lawn rates and some compost to cover the seeds would be beneficial imho as the existing grasses aren't going to do much to provide cover and retain moisture.
With the advent of "micro clover" it's once again making a comeback as a desirable element in lawns (usually found pre mixed in "eco" seed mixes).
Cutting right back to the lowest setting in one day isn't great for the grasses. You can do it very occasionally as part of extensive renovations if the turf is healthy (or you've given up on the existing grasses), but normally you're much better off gradually lowering the height over several weeks. That gives the grass time to adjust by increasing the number of shoots from each grass plant to maintain the same level of light absorption and ability to photosynthesise, giving you a more desirable thicker sward in the process.
After being cut back hard the grasses have to use their carbohydrate reserves stored in the roots to recover top growth before they can begin to photosynthesise properly. After winter those reserves are already at a low point. Cutting it back hard again for a second time is really going to tax the plants' ability to recover.
That turf is already looking very thin. I would consider overseeding at new lawn rates and some compost to cover the seeds would be beneficial imho as the existing grasses aren't going to do much to provide cover and retain moisture.
MuffDaddy said:
I have a case of white clover. The Lawn Expert recommends mends a selective weedkiller and a fertiliser to remedy this. Can anyone recommend a product for this?
Resolva or Weedol will do fine. Clover is normally very susceptible to selective broad leaf weedkillers, which is why it went from being considered a desirable addition and a sign of a healthy lawn to "weed" almost overnight with the advent of inexpensive herbicides in the mid 20th century.With the advent of "micro clover" it's once again making a comeback as a desirable element in lawns (usually found pre mixed in "eco" seed mixes).
Jordan210 said:
My garden is awful. Lots of moss and weeds.
So looks like I need to over seed it.
Can I seed and fertilise at the same time? Some say you can others not.
If so can anyone recommend a good feed for overseeding
Overseeding will be pointless if it's covered in moss. Wait til September and do a heavy scarify, and overseed. So looks like I need to over seed it.
Can I seed and fertilise at the same time? Some say you can others not.
If so can anyone recommend a good feed for overseeding
For now improve conditions and apply iron sulphate or 'lawn sand' to kill the moss. Wilko do iron sulphate, and ammonium sulphate (nitrogen) which work out cheaper than the combined products but more of a faff.
scott2c said:
Overseeding will be pointless if it's covered in moss. Wait til September and do a heavy scarify, and overseed.
For now improve conditions and apply iron sulphate or 'lawn sand' to kill the moss. Wilko do iron sulphate, and ammonium sulphate (nitrogen) which work out cheaper than the combined products but more of a faff.
Iv been removing the moss over the last few weeks. For now improve conditions and apply iron sulphate or 'lawn sand' to kill the moss. Wilko do iron sulphate, and ammonium sulphate (nitrogen) which work out cheaper than the combined products but more of a faff.
So should be good to go with some seeds as full of patches.
Was thinking of seeding and putting compost on top as well. But wasn't sure if I need a fertiliser aswell.
Edited by Jordan210 on Tuesday 17th April 17:12
Lawnsmith's 6-9-6 starter fertiliser is good for giving new seedlings a helping hand. Low in nitrogen and relatively high in phosphorus it encourages strong root growth over lushy top growth - ideal for young grass plants.
Depending on soil conditions, phosphorus can become locked up in the soil and unavailable to the plants. Adding some when seeding can be beneficial even if there's theoretically plenty in the soil already. There may well be, but it may be that the grass can't use it.
Depending on soil conditions, phosphorus can become locked up in the soil and unavailable to the plants. Adding some when seeding can be beneficial even if there's theoretically plenty in the soil already. There may well be, but it may be that the grass can't use it.
Hi Jagnet, any suggestions, recommendations for lawns on acidic soil? We moved house last year from Maidenhead (Thames Valley alluvial silt) to the Camberley area, acidic soil, Rhododendrons, Azaleas and Camellias love it! Unfortunately so does moss! Reading up a bit it seems I may have to change the feed to include lime and/or chicken poo fertiliser. Any thoughts?
Any recommendations for soil testing kit, and also for best place to get around 300kg of top dressing? Local places don’t seem to stock it and national online only come up with 900kg bulk bags. Lawn is around 9m x 6m and needs quite a bit of levelling out but I don’t think it would be good to do it in one go?
That's a lovely looking mature garden
As for the soil, enjoy it Acidic soils are great for finer grasses so unless it's excessively acidic (eg < pH 5.5) then I'd leave it be. Being Camberley I suspect it's quite sandy soil too?
If the turf is healthy then moss shouldn't really get a look in for the most part. Invariably there'll be patches that are more shaded etc where the grass is thinner and it can appear after winter but it shouldn't be unmanageable.
Like you, I have acidic soil and looking at my neighbour's current lawn and the state of mine when I moved in a couple of years ago you'd think that moss was an insurmountable problem, but aside from one small shady patch I really had very very little to deal with this spring despite so much rain. Meanwhile my neighbour's gardeners continue to pop by every three weeks to give his moss a cut
If there's heavy moss at the moment then blitzing it with iron sulphate is a quick remedy, but long term give an organic fertiliser such as Mo Bacter a whirl. The high levels of potassium cause the moss to break down which are then ingested by the bacteria. It's not as dramatic as iron sulphate but it really does work well (and no raking involved, which is plus in my book).
Maxwell Turf Food Bio 1 is an alternative to Mo Bacter that does the same thing (I must confess that I do like the Maxwell organic fertilisers - Myco 1 & 2 are my normal fertilisers of choice).
As for the soil, enjoy it
Acidic soils are great for finer grasses so unless it's excessively acidic (eg < pH 5.5) then I'd leave it be. Being Camberley I suspect it's quite sandy soil too?If the turf is healthy then moss shouldn't really get a look in for the most part. Invariably there'll be patches that are more shaded etc where the grass is thinner and it can appear after winter but it shouldn't be unmanageable.
Like you, I have acidic soil and looking at my neighbour's current lawn and the state of mine when I moved in a couple of years ago you'd think that moss was an insurmountable problem, but aside from one small shady patch I really had very very little to deal with this spring despite so much rain. Meanwhile my neighbour's gardeners continue to pop by every three weeks to give his moss a cut
If there's heavy moss at the moment then blitzing it with iron sulphate is a quick remedy, but long term give an organic fertiliser such as Mo Bacter a whirl. The high levels of potassium cause the moss to break down which are then ingested by the bacteria. It's not as dramatic as iron sulphate but it really does work well (and no raking involved, which is plus in my book).
Maxwell Turf Food Bio 1 is an alternative to Mo Bacter that does the same thing (I must confess that I do like the Maxwell organic fertilisers - Myco 1 & 2 are my normal fertilisers of choice).
MrChips said:
Any recommendations for soil testing kit, and also for best place to get around 300kg of top dressing? Local places don’t seem to stock it and national online only come up with 900kg bulk bags. Lawn is around 9m x 6m and needs quite a bit of levelling out but I don’t think it would be good to do it in one go?
Pitchcare.com on both counts are well worth a visit.jagnet said:
That's a lovely looking mature garden As for the soil, enjoy it Acidic soils are great for finer grasses so unless it's excessively acidic (eg < pH 5.5) then I'd leave it be. Being Camberley I suspect it's quite sandy soil too?
Thanks, although we've trashed it a bit since moving in, the yew balls have gone to be replaced with long mixed borders. Yes it's certainly sandy and I any nutrients wash through. The PH is around 6.0. The lady we bought from was approaching 80 and had a gardener (if you could call him that) who mowed the moss every now and again whereas our neighbour's grass is lush and green. Interesting about the 'MoBactor', I've seen it advertised but wondered if it was a bit of a gimmick. As for the soil, enjoy it Acidic soils are great for finer grasses so unless it's excessively acidic (eg < pH 5.5) then I'd leave it be. Being Camberley I suspect it's quite sandy soil too? 
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