Chainsaw or not...... ?
Discussion
MockingJay said:
I have one and it is great for it's job - pruning branches up high.Not sure how effective it would be in this case but I'd agree you're far enough away not to care if the chain broke.
Not quite sure why everyone is so anti chainsaw, they're a common tool for hedge layers to use when thinning much bigger and much smaller stuff than that. A chainsaw will comfortably cut through the main stem, although its not the right tool if you're just looking to cut the brash at the top, kinda depends how much off you want.
Condi said:
Not quite sure why everyone is so anti chainsaw, they're a common tool for hedge layers to use when thinning much bigger and much smaller stuff than that. A chainsaw will comfortably cut through the main stem, although its not the right tool if you're just looking to cut the brash at the top, kinda depends how much off you want.
The OP wants to take a foot off and a chainsaw is about the worst tool you could do that with. It would kick like f
kCondi said:
Not quite sure why everyone is so anti chainsaw, they're a common tool for hedge layers to use when thinning much bigger and much smaller stuff than that. A chainsaw will comfortably cut through the main stem, although its not the right tool if you're just looking to cut the brash at the top, kinda depends how much off you want.
They are dangerous in the right hands, let alone for a novice using one over head height amongst flexible branches. The risk/utility here is completely out of kilter.Willy Nilly said:
Condi said:
Not quite sure why everyone is so anti chainsaw, they're a common tool for hedge layers to use when thinning much bigger and much smaller stuff than that. A chainsaw will comfortably cut through the main stem, although its not the right tool if you're just looking to cut the brash at the top, kinda depends how much off you want.
The OP wants to take a foot off and a chainsaw is about the worst tool you could do that with. It would kick like fkA professional tree surgeon friend was cutting a hedge just before Christmas. The chainsaw kicked back; cutting him from the right hand corner of his mouth to just below the middle of his nose, along the top of his moustache line, leaving his lip hang on by the bit where it meets the left hand side. He showed me the photos before the surgeon repaired him; not nice!
This is someone who did the training and qualifications at agricultural college, has all the correct safety gear (and uses it) and has been working with chainsaws daily for fifteen years or so.
Why did he get cut? His helmet with the face guard wasn't holding the ear defenders right, so the saw was at head height with no ear protection. He took the helmet off and put plain ear defenders on...
If you must do the hedge yourself, maybe an electric reciprocating saw for £20 or so, would work. I use one for anything working up a ladder, tree or at head height, and I have both petrol and electric chainsaws.
This is someone who did the training and qualifications at agricultural college, has all the correct safety gear (and uses it) and has been working with chainsaws daily for fifteen years or so.
Why did he get cut? His helmet with the face guard wasn't holding the ear defenders right, so the saw was at head height with no ear protection. He took the helmet off and put plain ear defenders on...
If you must do the hedge yourself, maybe an electric reciprocating saw for £20 or so, would work. I use one for anything working up a ladder, tree or at head height, and I have both petrol and electric chainsaws.
Le Vette said:
If you need your fingers to count up to ten then never use a chainsaw. HTH
Your fingers are never at risk with a normal chainsaw that a normal person could buy (only with a top-handle, to obtain which you'd need to circumnavigate some pretty hard-&-fast rules/pull the wool to purchase) Condi said:
Why doesnt he use the chainsaw to take a foot off the bottom and then he wont have an issue for 4 years?
Indeed - removing the very notion of having the chainsaw above head height negates about 80% of the risks. Access to the other side permits this risk-set to be negated. A bit like how it's argued with cars (spuriously sometimes) - often one's safety is with power & speed (as long as the chain is sharp, & tensioned correctly) - this IMO is very much the case with chainsaws (& this job) . You can use a sharp chainsaw for normal hedges with no issues or elevated danger. The rule being always being able to brace any motion (with your muscles) - so no wielding above shoulders by definition.
Herbs said:
TooMany2cvs said:
Arif110 said:
Your fingers are never at risk with a normal chainsaw that a normal person could buy (only with a top-handle, to obtain which you'd need to circumnavigate some pretty hard-&-fast rules/pull the wool to purchase) 
thebraketester said:
Build a bigger fence. That fence is useless, and I actually see the hedge being that size as of benefit to you as a deterrent for people jumping onto your property. 
We like the small fence. It's purely aesthetic and marking the boundary. It protects the Western side of the garden and so allows lots of late summer sunshine into the garden...hence why we want the hedge lower (or back to what it used to be when the school weren't tight on groundsmen contractors !).If we didn't have the fence, the deer would get into the garden and eat all the flowers :-)
Would be burglars would use the hedge route in last. It's far easier to climb over the wall at the side of the house rather than get into the school field then walk 300 metres to get through a prickly hedge....even if it will only be 4.5ft high.
Thanks to all responders (including PM's). I'm going to use it as an excuse to buy some better hedge trimming tools (NOT chainsaw) and go at it with muscle & brains rather than chainsaw wielding amateur maniac :-)
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