Epoxy garage floor prep can I have a bit of help please?
Discussion
Just to bump this!
How are you getting on OP? Srill pleased with it?
As I progress my own attempt, my latest hurdle is finding me a grinder that will run off a domestic supply. Local hire places recons I will have issues with domestic electrics?
Surely these machines must be designed to run off standard sockets/transformers & not require generators every time? How does average builder get around this?
How are you getting on OP? Srill pleased with it?
As I progress my own attempt, my latest hurdle is finding me a grinder that will run off a domestic supply. Local hire places recons I will have issues with domestic electrics?
Surely these machines must be designed to run off standard sockets/transformers & not require generators every time? How does average builder get around this?
Edited by Andehh on Thursday 3rd May 21:34
Yeah, would be really interesting to know a few weeks on.
Also really interesting to know what grinder you are looking at. Is this handheld or a larger machine.
If it has a 16A 110v (yellow) plug it will run of a 32A 240v domestic ring main via a std 13A plug. Tbh, if it has a 240v (blue) 16A plug the same applies really.
Obviously if it has a larger, certainly 3ph supply, then it you will have issues.
Daniel
Also really interesting to know what grinder you are looking at. Is this handheld or a larger machine.
If it has a 16A 110v (yellow) plug it will run of a 32A 240v domestic ring main via a std 13A plug. Tbh, if it has a 240v (blue) 16A plug the same applies really.
Obviously if it has a larger, certainly 3ph supply, then it you will have issues.
Daniel
Sorry guys. Still mega pleased with it yes. You can scratch it - as the drive isn’t finished yet it sits a little lower than the garage presenting just a small lip.
Reversing the sunbeam in the other day in the wet one wheel span on the floor as it went up and the bits of grit did a good job of grinding tread marks into the epoxy, in a minor way.
In the wet there is no escaping it - it is a bit slippy - but your choice of footwear does matter in terms of how slippy. I’m fitting a threshold mat near the bifolds so I can make sure I have dry feet.
The sanding tool was single phase, and came with a 16 amp breaker. I notice they also did a 110v version too.
Reversing the sunbeam in the other day in the wet one wheel span on the floor as it went up and the bits of grit did a good job of grinding tread marks into the epoxy, in a minor way.
In the wet there is no escaping it - it is a bit slippy - but your choice of footwear does matter in terms of how slippy. I’m fitting a threshold mat near the bifolds so I can make sure I have dry feet.
The sanding tool was single phase, and came with a 16 amp breaker. I notice they also did a 110v version too.
https://spe.bartellglobal.com/products/concrete-gr...
The above is what i am hiring for the weekend, with carbide (?) blocks to do the work. Slightly wet, hire place recon will do the job.
I have ordered for 30sqm...:
20L of paint + hardener
10L white primer
4 x 12" rollers + frame etc (have the pole at home)
1 x 45cm Squgee
Spiked Shoes
Big bucket for paint
My plan is to:
Friday evening:
1) Grind down, pressure wash clean, leave over night. prob pressure washer a second time late Friday once dust has settled. Leave fan on in there to help circulate to dry.
Saturday:
2) Prime thoroughly Saturday, leave for 24 hours to go off [I was going to use a spray gun to prime it
Sunday:
3) Cut in around the edges & up the bricks a few level
4) Mix paint, pour down, spread with squeegee, roller it to even out. [Doing one thick coat]
Due to how hot it is, i was going to leave the paint (or just the hardener) in the fridge to cool down to give me more time as I am doing it alone. Is this a good idea? I am worried about the first batch going off on the floor, whilst I mix a second & start spreading it - getting caught in the stickiness of the first batch
The above is what i am hiring for the weekend, with carbide (?) blocks to do the work. Slightly wet, hire place recon will do the job.
I have ordered for 30sqm...:
20L of paint + hardener
10L white primer
4 x 12" rollers + frame etc (have the pole at home)
1 x 45cm Squgee
Spiked Shoes
Big bucket for paint
My plan is to:
Friday evening:
1) Grind down, pressure wash clean, leave over night. prob pressure washer a second time late Friday once dust has settled. Leave fan on in there to help circulate to dry.
Saturday:
2) Prime thoroughly Saturday, leave for 24 hours to go off [I was going to use a spray gun to prime it
Sunday:
3) Cut in around the edges & up the bricks a few level
4) Mix paint, pour down, spread with squeegee, roller it to even out. [Doing one thick coat]
Due to how hot it is, i was going to leave the paint (or just the hardener) in the fridge to cool down to give me more time as I am doing it alone. Is this a good idea? I am worried about the first batch going off on the floor, whilst I mix a second & start spreading it - getting caught in the stickiness of the first batch
Edited by Andehh on Tuesday 26th June 10:22
Andehh said:
Due to how hot it is, i was going to leave the paint (or just the hardener) in the fridge to cool down to give me more time as I am doing it alone. Is this a good idea? I am worried about the first batch going off on the floor, whilst I mix a second & start spreading it - getting caught in the stickiness of the first batch
Yes, but no, but maybe.The issues are:
- It'll heat up to ambient really fast once spread on the floor so you won't gain a lot.
- Epoxy curing generates its own heat so it will warm up faster than you might think.
- Epoxy sets harder when cured at higher temperatures.
- Each 10C increase is roughly a halving of working time, so at 30C you have half the time to work compared to 20C.
- Gelled epoxy will still bond to new liquid epoxy so you should get a good surface, but spikes in gelled epoxy may cause small imperfections, better to spread away from the old surface.
Flibble said:
Yes, but no, but maybe.
The issues are:
Thanks Flibble, I am more leaning towards getting up early and doing it fast. 'spikes' are you referring to the shoes? The issues are:
- It'll heat up to ambient really fast once spread on the floor so you won't gain a lot.
- Epoxy curing generates its own heat so it will warm up faster than you might think.
- Epoxy sets harder when cured at higher temperatures.
- Each 10C increase is roughly a halving of working time, so at 30C you have half the time to work compared to 20C.
- Gelled epoxy will still bond to new liquid epoxy so you should get a good surface, but spikes in gelled epoxy may cause small imperfections, better to spread away from the old surface.
I was going to do the back 1/3 of the garage first (with 5L) then middle 1/3 (with 5L) then front 1/3 (with 5L). Aiming for decent thick coats on each layer.
Is there a benefit to doing 2 coats of primer, or one thick coat? I was hoping to do one thick coat with the spray gun.
edit; They quote a pot life of 90mins, so might be worrying unnecessarily.
https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/2-pack-epo...
Edited by Andehh on Tuesday 26th June 11:38
Not done this, but very much considering it. My thoughts are:
- Will Friday night be enough time to grind it all and clean up?
- Will over night be enough time for it to dry (water) enough to paint (epoxy).
- Why are you planning to spray the primer? Rolling would I expect be much easier and safer for breathing.
- Are you going to scrap bubbles off and fill and fair the surface between the primer and the top coat?
- Can you get someone competent to mix the next batch in another bucket at you go along?
I presume that for the duration of the weekend the contents of the garage will be outside and or in the living room, hence the push to get it done in one weekend.
We paint our narrowboat with two pack PU and having a team, one cutting in with brush, one rollering, one mixing. Obviously you have a lot less cutting in, but having someone provide you with each batch of well mixed paint is very handy.
As said, while ensuring the resin isnt hot during mixing will help 'pot life' hugely (as if its warm, it will go off and heat up like billio) and if super hot a fridge might help, as soon as its on the floor it will be at floor temp. It will taint any near by sensitive food like a large custard tart you where looking forward to for the duration of the job, don't ask how I know this!
Daniel
- Will Friday night be enough time to grind it all and clean up?
- Will over night be enough time for it to dry (water) enough to paint (epoxy).
- Why are you planning to spray the primer? Rolling would I expect be much easier and safer for breathing.
- Are you going to scrap bubbles off and fill and fair the surface between the primer and the top coat?
- Can you get someone competent to mix the next batch in another bucket at you go along?
I presume that for the duration of the weekend the contents of the garage will be outside and or in the living room, hence the push to get it done in one weekend.
We paint our narrowboat with two pack PU and having a team, one cutting in with brush, one rollering, one mixing. Obviously you have a lot less cutting in, but having someone provide you with each batch of well mixed paint is very handy.
As said, while ensuring the resin isnt hot during mixing will help 'pot life' hugely (as if its warm, it will go off and heat up like billio) and if super hot a fridge might help, as soon as its on the floor it will be at floor temp. It will taint any near by sensitive food like a large custard tart you where looking forward to for the duration of the job, don't ask how I know this!
Daniel
Edited by dhutch on Tuesday 26th June 11:53
Andehh said:
Thanks Flibble, I am more leaning towards getting up early and doing it fast. 'spikes' are you referring to the shoes?
I was going to do the back 1/3 of the garage first (with 5L) then middle 1/3 (with 5L) then front 1/3 (with 5L). Aiming for decent thick coats on each layer.
Is there a benefit to doing 2 coats of primer, or one thick coat? I was hoping to do one thick coat with the spray gun.
edit; They quote a pot life of 90mins, so might be worrying unnecessarily.
https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/2-pack-epo...
Yes I meant shoe spikes - if it's gelled then walking on it will leave imprints from the shoes that won't close up.I was going to do the back 1/3 of the garage first (with 5L) then middle 1/3 (with 5L) then front 1/3 (with 5L). Aiming for decent thick coats on each layer.
Is there a benefit to doing 2 coats of primer, or one thick coat? I was hoping to do one thick coat with the spray gun.
edit; They quote a pot life of 90mins, so might be worrying unnecessarily.
https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/2-pack-epo...
Edited by Andehh on Tuesday 26th June 11:38
90 minute pot life should give enough time, since it's usually quoted at 20C ish, so even at 30C you'll get 45 minutes. It depends how hot your garage gets in the sun of course.
dhutch said:
Not done this, but very much considering it. My thoughts are:
- Will Friday night be enough time to grind it all and clean up?
- Will over night be enough time for it to dry (water) enough to paint (epoxy).
- Why are you planning to spray the primer? Rolling would I expect be much easier and safer for breathing.
- Are you going to scrap bubbles off and fill and fair the surface between the primer and the top coat?
- Can you get someone competent to mix the next batch in another bucket at you go along?
I presume that for the duration of the weekend the contents of the garage will be outside and or in the living room, hence the push to get it done in one weekend.
We paint our narrowboat with two pack PU and having a team, one cutting in with brush, one rollering, one mixing. Obviously you have a lot less cutting in, but having someone provide you with each batch of well mixed paint is very handy.
As said, while ensuring the resin isnt hot during mixing will help 'pot life' hugely (as if its warm, it will go off and heat up like billio) and if super hot a fridge might help, as soon as its on the floor it will be at floor temp. It will taint any near by sensitive food like a large custard tart you where looking forward to for the duration of the job, don't ask how I know this!
Daniel
In short.... I HAVE NO IDEA! - Will Friday night be enough time to grind it all and clean up?
- Will over night be enough time for it to dry (water) enough to paint (epoxy).
- Why are you planning to spray the primer? Rolling would I expect be much easier and safer for breathing.
- Are you going to scrap bubbles off and fill and fair the surface between the primer and the top coat?
- Can you get someone competent to mix the next batch in another bucket at you go along?
I presume that for the duration of the weekend the contents of the garage will be outside and or in the living room, hence the push to get it done in one weekend.
We paint our narrowboat with two pack PU and having a team, one cutting in with brush, one rollering, one mixing. Obviously you have a lot less cutting in, but having someone provide you with each batch of well mixed paint is very handy.
As said, while ensuring the resin isnt hot during mixing will help 'pot life' hugely (as if its warm, it will go off and heat up like billio) and if super hot a fridge might help, as soon as its on the floor it will be at floor temp. It will taint any near by sensitive food like a large custard tart you where looking forward to for the duration of the job, don't ask how I know this!
Daniel
Edited by dhutch on Tuesday 26th June 11:53
Yes garage is being emptied into Shed/House/garden whilst it is dry -now rain forecast...
I am on my own here, wife needs to be keeping the kids away from me hence me feeling nervous/having everything clear & ready to go. Johnstone's do advise a 90min pot life, and with 'only' 10sqm to do each thick batch in - I am hoping i will be ok? I will have everything 'queued up' inc powered mixer to reduce my change over time.
I was going to spray the primer for a thick coating (is this wise?) but I can roller it if necessary - again time is the big element here. Have sprayed primer in a small 7sqm area before self leveling compound in my shed after I fubar'd up the concrete (it rained & leaked in) for my ''shed'' and the primer worked fantastically well at sorting it.
I doubt I will do much with the surface, it is already pretty smooth with one minor crack running up it, I am not after a surgical level of precision floor wise just at-a-glance quality. I might see how it looks after grinding & change my mind though.
I am hoping such warm weather & 8 hours over night (with a fan going) will make it dry enough for priming Saturday AM. The primer goes off in 4 hours, so i can delay the start of it and still get on to painting Saturday night/Sunday morning.
It's the need to get it done in the good weather, cant take time off work, and have sons who are obsessed with following me around when ever I am doing anything 'interesting' - paint, grinders and water is the ultimate lust for them so doing it when they sleep is critical.
Edited by Andehh on Tuesday 26th June 12:09
I think you will be cutting it fine on getting the garage floor dry - if it is dead flat then you might stand a chance, however if you get any dips you will get puddles, and this might take its time to dry out.
I jet washed my garage recently, and even with the front and back door open whenever someone was at home, it still felt dampish on 3 or 4 days later. - I do have a nice slope towards a puddle in the worst possible corner - this does not help things!
I jet washed my garage recently, and even with the front and back door open whenever someone was at home, it still felt dampish on 3 or 4 days later. - I do have a nice slope towards a puddle in the worst possible corner - this does not help things!
Thanks guys, I do have a 45cm cm rubber squgee to help get rid of the excess water.
If needs be ill delay everything until properly dry.
I also rang Johnstones and was told to absolutely not use the primer, dilite by 10% the first 5L and use that on the garage floor, that way it soaks in into the concrete and bonds within it. Then second & third layer to improve as you would expect.
The chap was adamant, so that's the new plan. He was also the adamant on 24 hour between coats, and now he is vehicles for 7 days.
He was confident 5l would do the floor and 90mins would be plenty of time to do the job, especially when diluted with water for the first coat.
If needs be ill delay everything until properly dry.
I also rang Johnstones and was told to absolutely not use the primer, dilite by 10% the first 5L and use that on the garage floor, that way it soaks in into the concrete and bonds within it. Then second & third layer to improve as you would expect.
The chap was adamant, so that's the new plan. He was also the adamant on 24 hour between coats, and now he is vehicles for 7 days.
He was confident 5l would do the floor and 90mins would be plenty of time to do the job, especially when diluted with water for the first coat.
Edited by Andehh on Tuesday 26th June 13:47
Flibble said:
What sort of primer did you order then? Presumably not one to match the epoxy?
Ordered Johnstones Multi Purpose primer, but admitted no where does the Paint Tech Spec advise Priming, it does state in the preparation to ensure concrete is clean & dry, and to dilute first coat 10% as per his instructionsHe advised take it back, at best would do nothing at worst create a weaker 'bond' to the floor.
To be honest the principal of the first layer of paint soaking into concrete and bonding with it does make sense.
https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/2-pack-epo...
All sounds reasonable.
I assumed it was epoxy primer, which is the same stuff just a bit thinner and clear from what I saw of the job at work. If not then yes, better without I am sure.
No friends you can rope in for a 'fun painting weekend' is a shame but it sounds like you have it all lined up, if doing whole batches with an electronic mixer I'm sure it will mix quickly and be fine.
Can understand the reason for having it close, but do make sure it's dry and postpone if required if you can.
Let us know how it goes!
Daniel
I assumed it was epoxy primer, which is the same stuff just a bit thinner and clear from what I saw of the job at work. If not then yes, better without I am sure.
No friends you can rope in for a 'fun painting weekend' is a shame but it sounds like you have it all lined up, if doing whole batches with an electronic mixer I'm sure it will mix quickly and be fine.
Can understand the reason for having it close, but do make sure it's dry and postpone if required if you can.
Let us know how it goes!
Daniel
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