Epoxy garage floor prep can I have a bit of help please?
Discussion
Mine has been down perhaps 6 months, it was fresh conc (dry but never used) hoovered out.
It had been treated with conc sealer around 6 months earlier as it was dusty, I'm unsure if this caused an issue because although it seems ok, when I jacked my Jeep up - although it's fine where the jack is, the tyres scuffed some paint off when they went up / down - straight down to the conc, showing the paint hasn't bonded properly.
It had been treated with conc sealer around 6 months earlier as it was dusty, I'm unsure if this caused an issue because although it seems ok, when I jacked my Jeep up - although it's fine where the jack is, the tyres scuffed some paint off when they went up / down - straight down to the conc, showing the paint hasn't bonded properly.
V8RX7 said:
Mine has been down perhaps 6 months, it was fresh conc (dry but never used) hoovered out.
It had been treated with conc sealer around 6 months earlier as it was dusty, I'm unsure if this caused an issue because although it seems ok, when I jacked my Jeep up - although it's fine where the jack is, the tyres scuffed some paint off when they went up / down - straight down to the conc, showing the paint hasn't bonded properly.
Sorry to hear that, I imagine the sealer acted as glue to the dust but created a crusty layer where sealer glued the dust. The paint then layered over the top, with the dragging of the tyres it dragged that glued dusty layer & sheared the paint off?It had been treated with conc sealer around 6 months earlier as it was dusty, I'm unsure if this caused an issue because although it seems ok, when I jacked my Jeep up - although it's fine where the jack is, the tyres scuffed some paint off when they went up / down - straight down to the conc, showing the paint hasn't bonded properly.
Thanks for posting though, I was just going to recommend to my parents they do theirs/I do it for them (if mine goes OK, family member works for johnstones so we get the stuff very cheap), but theirs is very dusty so I may risk doing exactly what you did! ! Food for thought, for another day... But thanks for that!
Edited by Andehh on Tuesday 26th June 20:58
Yes and no... I think the sealer stopped the paint absorbing into the concrete.
Although I did test it first and water was absorbed so it should have been ok.
I also tried scratching the first coat and that seemed well bonded.
I am aware that hot tyres are the usual culprit for removing paint and I guess the pull of the rubber as it's being jacked is similar.
Although I did test it first and water was absorbed so it should have been ok.
I also tried scratching the first coat and that seemed well bonded.
I am aware that hot tyres are the usual culprit for removing paint and I guess the pull of the rubber as it's being jacked is similar.
Yeah I guess it's a bit like Andehh using non-epoxy primer, which then creates a weak layer between the concrete and the epoxy, although I'm slightly supprised the sealer caused and issue.
My last house had painted the fresh plaster with vynal paint rather than an emulsion mist coat, nightmare, half was stuck ok but some areas it just picked up and rolled round the roller and you could peal off sheets.
Heyho. I guess see how it goes and either repair areas as they fail like any other floor paint, or bite the bullet and take a grinder to it, get a good key, thinned down coat and then new top coat.
Daniel
My last house had painted the fresh plaster with vynal paint rather than an emulsion mist coat, nightmare, half was stuck ok but some areas it just picked up and rolled round the roller and you could peal off sheets.
Heyho. I guess see how it goes and either repair areas as they fail like any other floor paint, or bite the bullet and take a grinder to it, get a good key, thinned down coat and then new top coat.
Daniel
Hi guys.
Andeh I think you might be about to make a mistake with the primer. Let me reiterate a few things I learned.
Firstly - the primer I had was - basically - a clear version of the same stuff that is grey - ie epoxy - and it set R O C K hard. Seeing how sticky the epoxy is don’t panic about primer. It sticks like **** to a blanket.
Secondly - the key is cleanliness. That floor has to be absolutely (and I mean OCD level) free of dust. The minute you try to cut the edges in with your brush and hit a bit of dust the paint picks the dust up and you’re then frantically trying to clean the brush - a right pickle. Use fine surface filler to get rid of nasties rather than trying to fill them with epoxy.
Thirdly - spiked shoes - be careful - we used these and as you move about it’s possible to spike your surface filler, ripping a bit, and create little particles in the finished job.
Finally - time.
This is a big point. Please do not attempt this job alone. Please wait for help. Remember when I messed mine up alone mixing the filler wrong? It’s easy to get flustered once you’ve mixed up. You absolutely cannot join areas - you have to do it in one big go and with the current temperature it will begin to be “sticky” very quickly. Also, cutting in the edges takes AGES - it doesn’t paint easily as it’s thick and super sticky. Your helper will end up doing the edges for over half the time of the job. If you do it alone you will struggle unless you are an octopus!
Drying to hard time on a thick coat definitely a week. Do not use a roller the finish is crap. Pour directly onto concrete and use a float. Only employ a roller for your helper to “even out” material accross the job. Then finish with the float.
Hope this helps!!!
Best of luck
Andeh I think you might be about to make a mistake with the primer. Let me reiterate a few things I learned.
Firstly - the primer I had was - basically - a clear version of the same stuff that is grey - ie epoxy - and it set R O C K hard. Seeing how sticky the epoxy is don’t panic about primer. It sticks like **** to a blanket.
Secondly - the key is cleanliness. That floor has to be absolutely (and I mean OCD level) free of dust. The minute you try to cut the edges in with your brush and hit a bit of dust the paint picks the dust up and you’re then frantically trying to clean the brush - a right pickle. Use fine surface filler to get rid of nasties rather than trying to fill them with epoxy.
Thirdly - spiked shoes - be careful - we used these and as you move about it’s possible to spike your surface filler, ripping a bit, and create little particles in the finished job.
Finally - time.
This is a big point. Please do not attempt this job alone. Please wait for help. Remember when I messed mine up alone mixing the filler wrong? It’s easy to get flustered once you’ve mixed up. You absolutely cannot join areas - you have to do it in one big go and with the current temperature it will begin to be “sticky” very quickly. Also, cutting in the edges takes AGES - it doesn’t paint easily as it’s thick and super sticky. Your helper will end up doing the edges for over half the time of the job. If you do it alone you will struggle unless you are an octopus!
Drying to hard time on a thick coat definitely a week. Do not use a roller the finish is crap. Pour directly onto concrete and use a float. Only employ a roller for your helper to “even out” material accross the job. Then finish with the float.
Hope this helps!!!
Best of luck
PPS I’ve now had mine down long enough to do some pretty serious work on it. Report is that as a general floor it’s fantastic. Incredibly resistant to impact of dropped tools - impact resistance in general is amazing. The floor only gets actually damaged when a) hot welding residue drops on it or b) you accidentally spin a gritty wheel on the surface, which creates a dull patch ground into the surface. Oh and it turns out it is very slippery when covered in anti freeze or brake fluid....
Certainly when the pros did work the process was:
- Grinder with good extraction mounted in van.
- Hand grinder for edges to get right up to wall.
- Bloody good hoover all over with extractor.
- Clear coat of very thin expoy all over.
- First coat of of paint in slightly different colour.
- Following day, scraper for bubbles and filler for holes.
- Second and final coat of paint.
All three coats where put on by pouring it out and spreading it, all with a squeegee as far as I recall although there might have been a roller. Think they cut in with the squeegee too, reasonably well, but also obviously a warehouse not your front room. They did also do the office loos and kitchen but that was before my time.
Daniel
- Grinder with good extraction mounted in van.
- Hand grinder for edges to get right up to wall.
- Bloody good hoover all over with extractor.
- Clear coat of very thin expoy all over.
- First coat of of paint in slightly different colour.
- Following day, scraper for bubbles and filler for holes.
- Second and final coat of paint.
All three coats where put on by pouring it out and spreading it, all with a squeegee as far as I recall although there might have been a roller. Think they cut in with the squeegee too, reasonably well, but also obviously a warehouse not your front room. They did also do the office loos and kitchen but that was before my time.
Daniel
Thanks for the comments all & for coming back to this thread Julian.
I will have to give Johnstones another call later, just to understand it again. It concerns me their strong advice doesn't align with your experience! Of all my DIY projects, the planning of this one is proving most stressful.
They were very firm in:
1) Absolutely no primer, 1st coat 10% diluted does the job of it
2) Each 5L tin as a layer (though i didnt ask about laying it all in one go - i will do)
3) 90 mins working time in this weather will be absolutely fine. For the first 10% diluted this will be increased further.
I am at an unfortunately place where I am a solid 45mins from closest mate, most who have kids/young families and at only 27sqm I am still quietly confident that me & a 12" roller could roll it out within an hour? - 27sqm total (also have squeegee to hand). I do have my neighbor doing up his garden though, so In a pinch i can call him over. I may preempt it and ask though.
What i might do is see how the 10% diluted coat goes down, as it will have a longer working life, then based off that either do subsequent coats very early morning when it is still low teens temp wise, or yes call in support.
As for the cleanliness of it, thanks for the reinforcement. I will ask about dust extraction with the grinder hire, and will pressure washer it out once straight away, then a second time after an hour or two once dust has settled. Then dry fully. Then hoover before the job starts. And have spare brushes/rollers on standby.
I also have fine surface filler following your previous posts.
As for the cutting in, I have several 5" brushes and a neighbor who can be called upon for short bursts of time intensive stuff. A wife as well, once the kids are down for sleeps.
I easily coped with a large double garage by myself.
Cut in the sides first, then roller - I did buy the 12" rollers from Toolstation to be sure but a 9" would be ok.
No chance of cleaning them, fresh one for each coat
WEAR A DECENT MASK - it stinks and it's bad for your health
If it's an attached garage the house will stink that night too
Cut in the sides first, then roller - I did buy the 12" rollers from Toolstation to be sure but a 9" would be ok.
No chance of cleaning them, fresh one for each coat
WEAR A DECENT MASK - it stinks and it's bad for your health
If it's an attached garage the house will stink that night too
I haven't read all 9 pages, but when I did mine I was advised to wash and brush it out, then once dry "etch" it with hypochlorite (about £13 for a 25l drum at a proper builder's merchants)
Then rinse and let dry, and then apply your paint of choice.
Apologies if I'm repeating anything said earlier, but mine has been painted Grey with Screwfix's finest for about 8 years now - I don't park a car in it, but it is home to numerous generators (250kg plus) being slid around on their "crash frames", and now it's about due for another coat.
Then rinse and let dry, and then apply your paint of choice.
Apologies if I'm repeating anything said earlier, but mine has been painted Grey with Screwfix's finest for about 8 years now - I don't park a car in it, but it is home to numerous generators (250kg plus) being slid around on their "crash frames", and now it's about due for another coat.
Now I have read the whole thread, and it's a whole different ballgame! My screed was the original, 1969 I think, and unpainted. Scratches and scrapes everywhere.
I cleaned it off, did it with hypochlorite, let it fix for a bitt and then chucked down the paint. Looks great compared to how it used to - but nowhere NEAR the sort of glossy finish you have here.
Your garage floor is shinier than my newly-glossed skirting... though I presume it gives a better grip. And my cars are a lot trampier than your cars - the paint made the place look great compared to the old screed, but not a patch on your results.
I shall now retire for the evening and drink beer in the sun...
I cleaned it off, did it with hypochlorite, let it fix for a bitt and then chucked down the paint. Looks great compared to how it used to - but nowhere NEAR the sort of glossy finish you have here.
Your garage floor is shinier than my newly-glossed skirting... though I presume it gives a better grip. And my cars are a lot trampier than your cars - the paint made the place look great compared to the old screed, but not a patch on your results.
I shall now retire for the evening and drink beer in the sun...
Well, after nearly 3 hours with a carbide blocked grinder, below is the progress. . It is soul destroying slow. I estimate another 12+ hours to do the whole floor, which I'm not sure I can stomach. I'm gunna ring the hire place tomorrow & see what they advise!
On the bright side, it is smoother then glass. And yes, I had the world cup on the TV in there!
Edit: after an hour drying...
. It is soul destroying slow. I estimate another 12+ hours to do the whole floor, which I'm not sure I can stomach. I'm gunna ring the hire place tomorrow & see what they advise! On the bright side, it is smoother then glass. And yes, I had the world cup on the TV in there!
Edit: after an hour drying...
Edited by Andehh on Thursday 28th June 20:58
Andehh said:
Well, after nearly 3 hours with a carbide blocked grinder, below is the progress. . It is soul destroying slow. I estimate another 12+ hours to do the whole floor, which I'm not sure I can stomach. I'm gunna ring the hire place tomorrow & see what they advise!
On the bright side, it is smoother then glass.
That's very slow isn't it, and at this point I would say you don't nesserally want a glass finish, a bit of key.. It is soul destroying slow. I estimate another 12+ hours to do the whole floor, which I'm not sure I can stomach. I'm gunna ring the hire place tomorrow & see what they advise! On the bright side, it is smoother then glass.
Sounds like you have more the machine for buffing the flooring used in supermarkets rather than for taking the paint of and giving a key for epoxy.
I've seen that type for hire elsewhere, soon good to get the feedback.
Daniel
Rental place says I have the coarses blocks they offer, next machine up is a scrabber which I think would be far too aggressive!
He did advise damping the floor, as that would mean no dust and improve the cut? dust wise it does, but I wonder (as I have time to....) bwhether it makes it too slippery for the machine to cut?
He did advise damping the floor, as that would mean no dust and improve the cut? dust wise it does, but I wonder (as I have time to....) bwhether it makes it too slippery for the machine to cut?
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