Brick triple garage project - expert advice appreciated

[Mustang Baz]

We are currently planning a standalone triple garage construction; fundamentals will involve the following - cognisant that this is going next to a period (not listed) dwelling so it needs to be of a high standard and in keeping with a rural historical area;

- Flemish bond brick wall of restoration quality historic (deep red) bricks / Slate roof (both akin to the main house). Bricks would not be plaster-boarded or painted over inside.
- Permitted development build – so height restrictions. Size likely app 10m length, 7m wide. Gravel driveway approach.
- Garage doors - one double door of 5m and one (wider than usual) single door of c.2.8m; still ruminating on style, but given some of the quality needs, timber bi-folds currently coming top of the tree. This example in painted Iroko looks very much on point but I have no idea what bi-fold’s for a garage are like to actually live with when used relatively frequently (weekly). Admittedly these could be too much ££!

http://www.bespokegatesandgaragedoors.co.uk/news/f...

- Porcelain floor tiles – likely something akin to Dotti R9 anti-slip anthracite (or grey in case the anthracite is too dark with bricks)
- Interior would be vaulted with probably two oak/similar trusses (think bertie has it well done here - https://images.pistonheads.com/members/362-car.jpg...

These pictures are as close to the interior feel of brick/timber that I anticipate getting - http://thumbsnap.com/2TtgcIKV and https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4617/39769060934_211... .

Any input from those of you who have either built similar, or had experiences with any of the above would be very much valued. Key to my mind are whether the doors are the sensible, practical choice. In addition, the single skin of brickwork wouldn’t make it the warmest garage known to mankind, but I wouldn’t likely be working on cars inside in the depth of winter.

Edited by Mustang Baz on Sunday 15th April 18:25

[lrdisco]

I’m a builder and I would never build a single skin garage. They condensate a lot. They are cold and your tools will rust.
Put a block inner skin with 75mm rock wool type insulation in the cavity.

[uk66fastback]

Hmmmm. Had a single skin garage for 20 years now - not one tool has ever rusted!

[RichB]

The exposed brick inner is similar to my triple garage. It's double skinned at the back and single skin to the sides. No problems with damp or rust so far. Mice yes but rust? No...

[Ziplobb]

I have a triple single skin brick garage with workshop one end and store the other of a similar size to your proposal - it's a modern build though and we bought the property with it rather than built it but it being single skin is pretty much my only gripe with the property as a whole. It's definitely more damp than my old cavity garage that I built at our previous house

[Olivera]

I wouldn't bother building a single skinned garage for the reasons already mentioned. They are just appalling in the UK's wet and damp climate.

[suffolk009]

If you're using Flemish Bond then the walls are two bricks deep. Unless they cut the header in half, in which case you'll see the broken end inside. If I was building an expensive garage like yours, I'd build it with cavity walls, insulation in walls, floor and ceiling. It doesn't need to be to domestic build standards but it makes no sense not to.

If I was using Porcelain tiles, I'd be on the phone to these people first. (But then I'm a huge McFan.) http://en.pastorellitiles.com/progetti/mclaren-pro...

Are you plaster-boarding and painting the ceiling? It tends to be the goto finish, but think about wood (probably T&G, doesn't have to be knotty pine) Once it's up it's zero maintenance and anything that you paint will always look dated after a while.

I'd also sort out some decent lighting at the design stage. It mainly depends whether it's a show garage or a working garage on what you'll need. If you're putting those nice oak beams up then some led strip uplights set into the upper surface would be subtle.

Finally, make sure there's electrical sockets and if possible water in, or very near, the garage.

Those doors look fabulous. Great choice.

[RichB]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

I have a pedestrian door and I've thought about this. Means you can slide some Enfield bolts to secure the garage doors from the inside and exit via the pedestrian door but wouldn't that be the point of weakness then?

[Equus]

Mustang Baz said:

cognisant that this is going next to a listed dwelling so it needs to be of a very high standard and in keeping with a rural conservation area;

- ...Slate roof ....
- Permitted development build – so height restrictions. ....7m wide.

I'm getting major alarm bells ringing with these two statements.

This would result in a roof pitch of certainly less than 30 degrees.

If it's within the curtilage of a Listed Building, you need Listed Building Consent, so unless very low roof pitch is characteristic of neighbouring buildings, the Conservation Officer can prevent you building it even if it would be PD.

Better to design it properly, even if it means applying for Planning Permission as well as Listed Building Consent, rather than adopt a half-arsed solution just to make it PD compliant.

[Mustang Baz]

Equus said:

Mustang Baz said:

cognisant that this is going next to a listed dwelling so it needs to be of a very high standard and in keeping with a rural conservation area;

- ...Slate roof ....
- Permitted development build – so height restrictions. ....7m wide.

I'm getting major alarm bells ringing with these two statements.

This would result in a roof pitch of certainly less than 30 degrees.

Apologies - my lack of clarity/accuracy in the original post - not a listed building, but period; not a formal conservation area, but rural and building needs to be in keeping with the local housing. Required planning consents are already obtained with professional assistance.

Edited by Mustang Baz on Sunday 15th April 18:53

[NiceCupOfTea]

You can get some tiles with a lip near the top that prevent blow back of water.

Our garage is single brick thickness (blocks on 2 sides and brick on the third, block sides rendered) and it does get damp in there - not too bad though, tools are OK unless they get put away damp. Double glazed window and door units and a sectional electric door with rubber seal at the bottom, plus dynotile with insulation layer underneath it all combine to make a huge difference. Yours in obviously on a different level though.

I would definitely go for the sectional door again though - you can get many different styles and some I am sure would fit in well with the local style.

[NDA]

Did you consider an oak barn?

I have had several built at various houses I've owned including a triple where I am now - with 3 sets of double doors.

[Krikkit]

RichB said:

anonymous said:

[redacted]

I have a pedestrian door and I've thought about this. Means you can slide some Enfield bolts to secure the garage doors from the inside and exit via the pedestrian door but wouldn't that be the point of weakness then?

Yes, but an interlocking-frame UPVC type job would be reasonably well protected against casual pilfery.

[anonymous-user]

Don't conservation areas preclude permitted development?

[acme]

I am going through this at the moment. Grounds work team have started this week.

Have you got quotes? Mine is a triple with room above. Architects said 50k, PH said possible, reality in this current climate was 100k at cheapest, 140k too! Lots of quotes.....

This is for an oak framed one, similarly not listed but rural, not conservation but needs to be in keeping with old building.

[Mustang Baz]

acme said:

I am going through this at the moment. Grounds work team have started this week.

Have you got quotes? Mine is a triple with room above. Architects said 50k, PH said possible, reality in this current climate was 100k at cheapest, 140k too! Lots of quotes.....

This is for an oak framed one, similarly not listed but rural, not conservation but needs to be in keeping with old building.

Have got some early indications but now going to detailed tender stage. I could yet get a negative surprise . Foundation solution also needed which has added to the complexity/cost - detailed quotes on this already obtained after preliminary soil/ground works. Building will be garages with no room above.

Appropriate brick is critical in keeping with house, and it could be damaging overall to go with a basic brick given age of main property. Same for roof choice. Really keen to maintain a high quality feel but without it becoming an overly crazy vanity project. Initial high level gut feel from one local surveyor was £150k+, @ which it wouldn't make any sense to proceed on - seeking £100k + VAT maximum if at all possible.

[acme]

I’m still unclear on oak frame vs brick cost wise & therefore can’t comment, but can on foundations.

Clay soil with trees, initially engineer said piling with quotes of 20k+. Soil test revealed low/medium plasticity, so now with strip foundations; up to 1.8m. One thing to consider is if you intend on a lift, slab should be minimum 6” deep, reinforced. This is for a four poster, possibly more for a two post.

None of this is remotely cheap. In any shape or form!

[Sandy59]

I originally looked at using the Dotti anti slip tile but got samples of various others as well to compare. My own thoughts were that the Dotti 'seemed' to hold the dirt more than smoother ones due to rougher texture, and might be more difficult to clean and/or keep clean, also only size was 300x300. I ended up going for a bigger tile with smoother finish, and although not specifically anti slip they don't feel slippery in any way even when wet.
You can get plenty free samples which I'd recommend you do as I'm sure you'll want to get it right, I could be wrong on the Dotti so best check it yourself.

pic of my floor finished :

[S6PNJ]

Sandy59 said:

I ended up going for a bigger tile with smoother finish, and although not specifically anti slip they don't feel slippery in any way even when wet.

So what tiles and from where, did you go for in the end?

[Sandy59]

S6PNJ said:

So what tiles and from where, did you go for in the end?

pretty sure it was these ones, strangely the main picture doesn't actually look too much like them, the smaller pic does :

https://www.directtilewarehouse.com/vado-dark-grey...

Edited by Sandy59 on Sunday 15th April 22:19