Morse taper stuck :(

[227bhp]

dickymint said:

Wrap some emery cloth around it for protection and use a pair of Stilsons and twist it off. I'd stake my Indentures this will work!

How are you going to hold the chuck?

A pic would be good.

[dickymint]

227bhp said:

dickymint said:

Wrap some emery cloth around it for protection and use a pair of Stilsons and twist it off. I'd stake my Indentures this will work!

How are you going to hold the chuck?

A pic would be good.

I'm assuming it's not in the chuck and sticks out of the headstock and looks like this............

[227bhp]

dickymint said:

227bhp said:

dickymint said:

Wrap some emery cloth around it for protection and use a pair of Stilsons and twist it off. I'd stake my Indentures this will work!

How are you going to hold the chuck?

A pic would be good.

I'm assuming it's not in the chuck and sticks out of the headstock and looks like this............

Sorry, I meant a pic of this area of the machine so we're not just guessing, the headstock spins round in lathes, that's the whole idea of it.

[jet_noise]

Simpo Two said:

Thanks Motco, but there's no facility to use that on an ML8. Bashing it out from behind is the only way.

I've tried grinding out the ridges but no improvement. Can anyone recommend a good brand of prong drive?

One for the juvenile sniggering thread?
(I opened this thread as I didn't know what a Morse taper was. Engineering curiosity, there's no cure.)

[dickymint]

227bhp said:

dickymint said:

227bhp said:

dickymint said:

Wrap some emery cloth around it for protection and use a pair of Stilsons and twist it off. I'd stake my Indentures this will work!

How are you going to hold the chuck?

A pic would be good.

I'm assuming it's not in the chuck and sticks out of the headstock and looks like this............

Sorry, I meant a pic of this area of the machine so we're not just guessing, the headstock spins round in lathes, that's the whole idea of it.

This'll show you what it looks like...................

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHhnxlnzg5o

Better vid here........................

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIolc_tmL8E

Edited by dickymint on Monday 18th June 10:42

[motco]

Simpo Two said:

Maybe the difference is that the ML8 is a woodworking lathe... Does the ML7 have this slot?

Very likely. I didn't realise it was a woodworking lathe as it's only one numerical designation away from a metalworking model.

[dickymint]

Simpo Two - shouldn't the taper be held in place with the draw bar? In which case you unscrew it it a few threads and hid it?

Guessing you already know this but haven't got the draw bar?

[Simpo Two]

dickymint said:

Simpo Two - shouldn't the taper be held in place with the draw bar? In which case you unscrew it it a few threads and hid it?

Nope, the idea of a Morse taper is that it's a friction fit, just a tapering cone of metal. Push it in, tap it out. I suppose I could put the prong drive in a 3-jaw chuck next time... but it shouldn't need it.

[dickymint]

Simpo Two said:

dickymint said:

Simpo Two - shouldn't the taper be held in place with the draw bar? In which case you unscrew it it a few threads and hid it?

Nope, the idea of a Morse taper is that it's a friction fit, just a tapering cone of metal. Push it in, tap it out. I suppose I could put the prong drive in a 3-jaw chuck next time... but it shouldn't need it.

I know all about Morse Tapers does yours have a female thread at the back?

[Simpo Two]

No thread at all. None of my Morse fittings have a thread, though some have a small flat section at the back for some reason..

[minivanman]

The ML8 is a plain tube spindle with a thread at each end for inboard and outboard turning. There is (or should be) a plunger that stops rotation for changing faceplates. I wouldn't put the torque of stilsons through it though. No facility for a morse drift to remove it. I used to have a bit of 1/2" steel rod for knocking the drive out of mine. Then I got a supernova chuck and a chuck steb centre. Makes life so easy - the chuck never has to come off the lathe. I think I still have an ML8 inboard thread adapter on the shelf if you wanted it?

[Simpo Two]

minivanman said:

The ML8 is a plain tube spindle with a thread at each end for inboard and outboard turning. There is (or should be) a plunger that stops rotation for changing faceplates. I wouldn't put the torque of stilsons through it though. No facility for a morse drift to remove it. I used to have a bit of 1/2" steel rod for knocking the drive out of mine. Then I got a supernova chuck and a chuck steb centre. Makes life so easy - the chuck never has to come off the lathe. I think I still have an ML8 inboard thread adapter on the shelf if you wanted it?

Thread adapter - 1" 12tpi to what? I have a Robert Sorby chuck (4 jaw) which seemed like a good idea but in practice its usefulness is limited. I was going to use a normal 3-jaw chuck as a workaround - it does reduce bed length of course.

[minivanman]

inboard ML8 to a patriot/supernova insert thread. No use if you've already got one. I almost never take my chuck off the lathe- got a faceplate ring for it so I can grab it with my chuck and a couple of stebcentres:
https://www.oliverswoodturning.co.uk/product/chuck...
(mine cost nowhere near that, just the first link on google) I upgraded mine to a union graduate, and I've just acquired this beast from a college:
Wadkin RS
I like turning big stuff!

[Simpo Two]

How do you find a stebcentre compares with a standard 2-prong drive?

I tried a Sorby 4-prong drive but once the chisel snagged and it bent three of them and snapped the fourth! Don't make 'em like they used to...

[CrutyRammers]

motco said:

Simpo Two said:

Maybe the difference is that the ML8 is a woodworking lathe... Does the ML7 have this slot?

Very likely. I didn't realise it was a woodworking lathe as it's only one numerical designation away from a metalworking model.

I doubt it, most metal lathes have a tube spindle and you have to bang it out from the rear. My southbend is the same. There are repeated mentions in Spary's "the Amateur's lathe" warning about getting tapers stuck, so it wasn't unusual.

[motco]

CrutyRammers said:

motco said:

Simpo Two said:

Maybe the difference is that the ML8 is a woodworking lathe... Does the ML7 have this slot?

Very likely. I didn't realise it was a woodworking lathe as it's only one numerical designation away from a metalworking model.

I doubt it, most metal lathes have a tube spindle and you have to bang it out from the rear. My southbend is the same. There are repeated mentions in Spary's "the Amateur's lathe" warning about getting tapers stuck, so it wasn't unusual.

It is a long time since I used machine tools and I'd quite forgotten that a metal lathe tailstock does not have the slot because you eject the taper by the simple expedient of winding the tailstock back until the tool in the taper bottoms out on the rear end of the head and pops out.



It is on sensitive drill presses that the taper is released with a drift

[dickymint]

^^^ and when you need to separate two tapers.

Edited by dickymint on Tuesday 19th June 11:02

[motco]

dickymint said:

^^^ and when you need to desperate two tapers.

No idea; never had to do that. Sorry.


On a lighter note: throw a bucket of water over them like copulating dogs? How do you separate supermarket trolleys?

[minivanman]

Simpo Two said:

How do you find a stebcentre compares with a standard 2-prong drive?

I tried a Sorby 4-prong drive but once the chisel snagged and it bent three of them and snapped the fourth! Don't make 'em like they used to...

Steb drive is fantastic. If you get a catch the wood stops still and the drive keeps spinning. I have found in hard wood like yew it is best to get the piece centred on the spring point, then gently (and very carefully!) advance the tailstock while holding the workpiece still to create a bit of a groove for the teeth to run in. If you don't and have a catch it can skid off centre. I do have variable speed though so its quite easy for me to run at low speed to do this.

[Simpo Two]

minivanman said:

Steb drive is fantastic. If you get a catch the wood stops still and the drive keeps spinning. I have found in hard wood like yew it is best to get the piece centred on the spring point, then gently (and very carefully!) advance the tailstock while holding the workpiece still to create a bit of a groove for the teeth to run in. If you don't and have a catch it can skid off centre. I do have variable speed though so its quite easy for me to run at low speed to do this.

Hang on, if the teeth run in a groove how do they turn the wood round? The last thing you want is for the teeth to carve out a ring, no?

My current project (an enormous chunk of laminated plywood 13" long) proved just to big to turn inboard so I had to use the outboard side and faceplate - cue the whole lathe shaking back and forth until I got the worst off! It's now safely inboard (just) with tailstock so it's tamed now...