Drilling out an M6 bolt
Discussion
do you have both 6mm and 7mm? I'd just compare the drill to the bolt, and probably go with the 6mm anyway.
By the time you've gone through the bolt, you will probably have broken the friction/rust free anyway.
Edit: Which way through the bolt are you going? head first, or thread first? Is this on the garden bench?
By the time you've gone through the bolt, you will probably have broken the friction/rust free anyway.
Edit: Which way through the bolt are you going? head first, or thread first? Is this on the garden bench?
Is there access available either side?
I'm imagining (but could easily be wrong!) Two sheets of metal each with a 6mm hole in and the nut/bolt holding them together.
I would grind the nut or bolt head off on one side, much quicker than drilling but you need to be careful you don't damage the pieces being held together.
I'm imagining (but could easily be wrong!) Two sheets of metal each with a 6mm hole in and the nut/bolt holding them together.
I would grind the nut or bolt head off on one side, much quicker than drilling but you need to be careful you don't damage the pieces being held together.
Drilling out a rusty bolt, you're not going to be worried about 0.1mm clearances, it's often messy. I'd go smaller to start with, maybe a 4, in case you go off centre. That will often cause it to collapse anyway, if not, move up to a 5, the a 6. If you go straight in with a 6 and miss the exact centre, you'll end up with an oval hole.
Big Al. said:
M6 denotes the thread overall diameter, i.e a 6mm bolt requires a 6mm hole and the bolt will drop through.
You could just to be on the safe side drill the clearance hole to say 6.1mm, but in theory you shouldn't need to 6.0mm will clear the bolt.
Size for size will give you an interference fit, and that's provided the bolt isn't on top tolerance and the drill bit on bottom You could just to be on the safe side drill the clearance hole to say 6.1mm, but in theory you shouldn't need to 6.0mm will clear the bolt.
P924 said:
do you have both 6mm and 7mm? I'd just compare the drill to the bolt, and probably go with the 6mm anyway.
By the time you've gone through the bolt, you will probably have broken the friction/rust free anyway.
Edit: Which way through the bolt are you going? head first, or thread first? Is this on the garden bench?
Yes, this is the bench! Access in a straight line is impossible due to the design of the iron frames, so I'm getting a right-angle chuck, and ordered 6mm cobalt drill bits from eBay before thinking. Due to what an utter bd it would be to remove all the bolts I've decided to refurb the existing planks in situ as best I can; however there's one plank missing and the rusty remains of the bolts need to be removed. As for head vs thread, is there a best way?By the time you've gone through the bolt, you will probably have broken the friction/rust free anyway.
Edit: Which way through the bolt are you going? head first, or thread first? Is this on the garden bench?
If this is the kind of garden bench I'm thinking of, then wouldn't it just be easiest to cut the existing bolts off with a grinder, probably with the wood still in place, but destroying it if needed? They should just tap through the holes in the frame, which won't be threaded (the frame ends are usually some kind of cast monkey metal, so a thread wouldn't last two seconds anyway)
This kind of thing?
This kind of thing?
dickymint said:
It's going to be a bd doing that with a right angled drill!!
I know, but there's only about 6" clearance above and below.Private Pile said:
Have you tried undoing the bolt? Can you add heat from a blow torch? If it's proper rusty and seized then it may well snap whilst loosening it.
WIth great difficulty I got about half the bolts off; the others sheared, and a few nuts are impossible to get a grip on as they're too close into an angle. Can't use heat with the wood there.TooMany2cvs said:
If this is the kind of garden bench I'm thinking of, then wouldn't it just be easiest to cut the existing bolts off with a grinder, probably with the wood still in place, but destroying it if needed? They should just tap through the holes in the frame, which won't be threaded
That was the plan, but the bolts are rusted totally solid in the iron frame. Hence the plan to refurb the wood in place, but I just need to get the bolts out where the one plank is missing.Worst case is that I cut/grind the bolts flat with the frame and stick the new plank on with Sikaflex!!!
TooMany2cvs said:
Simpo Two said:
That was the plan, but the bolts are rusted totally solid in the iron frame.
Get the wood off, get some decent penetrating oil on for a few days, and then get some heat on. Tappity, tappity, they'll be out.Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff