A piece of stainless steel needed
Discussion
Simpo Two said:
21TonyK said:
All I can add is keep looking for someone to cut and drill it for you. Cost me £60 in countersinks to drill and countersink 20 holes in 3mm stainless.
Glad it's not just me, metal wrecks everything I try!Mr Pointy said:
Do the holes have to be countersunk? If the stainless was on the underside of the wood then pan heads screws might be ok.
I guess so, if countersinking is so difficult. I just want it to be a neat as possible.In fact mild steel with some kind of anti-rust finish would do, and be much easier.
When you hit it with your drill or CS you need to be at the right speed, right pressure, cutting angle and with some coolant. If the drill skids without cutting and heats up the SS to a certain temp that's it, game over. It'll just blunt everything you throw at it.
227bhp said:
Simpo Two said:
21TonyK said:
All I can add is keep looking for someone to cut and drill it for you. Cost me £60 in countersinks to drill and countersink 20 holes in 3mm stainless.
Glad it's not just me, metal wrecks everything I try!Mr Pointy said:
Do the holes have to be countersunk? If the stainless was on the underside of the wood then pan heads screws might be ok.
I guess so, if countersinking is so difficult. I just want it to be a neat as possible.In fact mild steel with some kind of anti-rust finish would do, and be much easier.
When you hit it with your drill or CS you need to be at the right speed, right pressure, cutting angle and with some coolant. If the drill skids without cutting and heats up the SS to a certain temp that's it, game over. It'll just blunt everything you throw at it.
OP, stick to the toolstation option!
Although something with an angle would be stronger: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p42827?r=googlesh...
227bhp said:
SS is difficult to work for a DIYer, it helps if you know something important and that is most types of it work harden with heat. Not just over a reasonable period of time, but in seconds.
When you hit it with your drill or CS you need to be at the right speed, right pressure, cutting angle and with some coolant. If the drill skids without cutting and heats up the SS to a certain temp that's it, game over. It'll just blunt everything you throw at it.
Any metal except aluminium or copper etc will do this. Sadly I wrecked several decent drill bits trying to enlarge a hole in an exhaust flange until I realised I was cooking the metal. When you hit it with your drill or CS you need to be at the right speed, right pressure, cutting angle and with some coolant. If the drill skids without cutting and heats up the SS to a certain temp that's it, game over. It'll just blunt everything you throw at it.
Thank you all for your ideas, all good thoughts. But I don't want a pack of 10 things a different size, or an angle iron (because it will show), or bits of something else. I know the problem, I've worked out what it need and I'd like to source it.
I realise now that s/s is too difficult to work to be feasible, but would still like a piece of mild steel 350mm x 65mm x 3mm with 10 csk holes in it as per a template I have ready. If any PHer can do this I'd be happy to support them. Otherwise it will have to be entrusted to some random monkey at a local industrial estate which I'd rather avoid. Thanks
I realise now that s/s is too difficult to work to be feasible, but would still like a piece of mild steel 350mm x 65mm x 3mm with 10 csk holes in it as per a template I have ready. If any PHer can do this I'd be happy to support them. Otherwise it will have to be entrusted to some random monkey at a local industrial estate which I'd rather avoid. Thanks
How strong are the other slats on this bench? Surely you want something thin and flexible that holds to 2 ends of the slat together but bends along with it? Without this similar flex, the screws at the ends of the piece of metal will pull out as the metal stays straight and the wood bows.
samdale said:
How strong are the other slats on this bench? Surely you want something thin and flexible that holds to 2 ends of the slat together but bends along with it? Without this similar flex, the screws at the ends of the piece of metal will pull out as the metal stays straight and the wood bows.
It'll be OK. Trust me I'm a doctor lol.Turn7 said:
But Simpo,theres nothing left alive in your garden to look at it is there?
Lots of big trees and plants are fine Looks like the estate monkeys get the job then!
Simpo Two said:
dickymint said:
Where do you want the holes Simpo?.....
Haha, brilliant!Holes need to be slightly different; I'll PM you.
uncinqsix's idea of hidden screws is good too, hadn't thought of that, but I think the plate will spread the load better.
Thankyou Mr Mint!
CAPP0 said:
Dickymint, is this something you do? I have a couple of requirements basically comprising folded S/S pieces. Only needs to be thin. If so perhaps I could PM you?
BTW, I'm not expecting a freebie!
Sort of part time - not my company and we generally do largish projects based around ventilation industry, using the workshop for fabricating work to fit on site.BTW, I'm not expecting a freebie!
If it's a small job and I can find off cuts lying around it's a maybe so by all means mail my profile and i'll take a look.
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