Tools you wish you'd bought sooner...

[dickymint]

donkmeister said:

dickymint said:

Here's another that makes my teeth itch..................





Not a vernier scale in site

It's not a micrometer either. bds. If you can't read a Vernier scale you don't deserve precision.

I've got one of those cheapies in a drawer. I occasionally use it to measure pipes and fittings, i.e. for jobs where the level of precision required makes deburring the same as reaming.

You have reminded me I need to buy a proper one, I mostly use micrometers but that's not always as convenient as a caliper. Off to the Mitutoyo website I go for a browse. I'll tell the Mrs I'm looking at rude websites so she doesn't get suspicious.

Here's one I made earlier (literally) well about 45 years earlier and showing a bit of wear and tear..................






Apologies for the thread hi-jack but I'm in a nostalgic mood of late

[Mr Pointy]

Sporky said:

Sorry. I just like annoying pedants.

I'm OK with "light bulb" when it's used to refer to just the incandescent/arc bit. Or even a screw-in LED thing if its rounded. When it goes into a projector it's definitely a lamp.

Whats a luminaire then?

[Mr Pointy]

Sporky said:

Nope.

That's the standard answer (though usually "lamps glow, bulbs grow"), but a lamp is a light emitting assembly that includes a reflector. No reflector, not a lamp.

It's one of those interesting ones where a lot of people who think they're right are actually wrong.

.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Davy_lamp

[skwdenyer]

Mr Pointy said:

Sporky said:

Sorry. I just like annoying pedants.

I'm OK with "light bulb" when it's used to refer to just the incandescent/arc bit. Or even a screw-in LED thing if its rounded. When it goes into a projector it's definitely a lamp.

Whats a luminaire then?

A lighting instrument. Word often used in theatre, say, and other professional lighting contexts.

A lamp goes in a luminaire for create what’s colloquially known as “a light.”

[Sporky]

Mr Pointy said:

Whats a luminaire then?

Here you go - I think auto correct got at your post.

https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/englis...

[The Gauge]

Do we need a separate thread for discussing the tools that we wish we'd bought sooner?

[donkmeister]

dickymint said:

Here's one I made earlier (literally) well about 45 years earlier and showing a bit of wear and tear..................






Apologies for the thread hi-jack but I'm in a nostalgic mood of late

Hmmm, probably needs recalibration by now surely?

[gtidriver]

Promised Land said:

gtidriver said:

Ill have this up on the wall later over the weekend, my final few bits arrived today. I'm on the hunt for a 150mm ruler, should have bought it but didn't and now an out of stock item. Ill leave a space just incase I find it.

You mean a 150mm rule?

Rulers are kings and queens, you measure with a rule.

Thank you for pointing out my mistake, what a hero you are.

[dickymint]

donkmeister said:

dickymint said:

Here's one I made earlier (literally) well about 45 years earlier and showing a bit of wear and tear..................






Apologies for the thread hi-jack but I'm in a nostalgic mood of late

Hmmm, probably needs recalibration by now surely?

Ah calibration..... During the war Rodney!! - did I tell you my last proper job was building up from scratch and running the calibration lab for LG Electronics Ltd.

Vernier calipers simple. Clean the jaw faces, close them up and check the zeros are aligned, if not adjust the vernier scale to align. Technically this should be checked at 10mm intervals using 'slip gauges' as a standard but there's no need.

My 16th birthday present from my Dad.........









Use it still but It's a struggle to read the vernier scale without a magnifier

[F17SRF]

Any recommendations on a rivet nut tool that uses a drill to pull the rivet instead of the hand held that you need to press?

[GeneralBanter]

F17SRF said:

Any recommendations on a rivet nut tool that uses a drill to pull the rivet instead of the hand held that you need to press?

How would that work without spinning the rivnut ?

[Teddy Lop]

donkmeister said:

Teddy Lop said:

Why are core drills so much more expensive than similarly specified non-core rated drills that makes them 3x the price? Don't bother to answer this I've been asking for years and never got a satisfactory answer, or indeed one from anyone with the faintest idea what theyre talking about.

Core drills are built for high torque, low speed. If you use a standard drill for lots and lots of big cores, you knacker the motor controller and overheat the windings on the motor.

Less of a distinction these days is the clutch. Years back it wasn't that uncommon for someone to wallop themselves in the face with the handle and/or throw themselves off a ladder when using a core with a regular drill. These days drills all seem to have a safety clutch anyway, but I suspect this is set at a lower torque to a core drill.

Torque and speed are a function of the gearbox, and many drills work within the same range as core specific drills, in fact many exceed them for torque, eg around 50nm is quoted for core rated drills but others such as the Milwaukee super hawg are 120nm but not core rated.

The only difference may be the clutch is designed to allow more torque and for more repeated abuse but if it's as simple as that why is it not an option on more drilling equipment rather than having to carry a special separate drill? My DeWalt mini breaker stylee I used for cores for years before I was doing them so often I decided to upgrade to the proper tool , which now sits while the trusty old breaker is pushed back into service!

[Indecision]

They exist - but they’re not cheap… https://ffx.co.uk/products/makita-makita-drv150z-1...

Quick google and you’ll find cheap Chinese alternatives on temu

[dickymint]

Indecision said:

They exist - but they’re not cheap… https://ffx.co.uk/products/makita-makita-drv150z-1...

Quick google and you’ll find cheap Chinese alternatives on temu

I think he's talking about an attachment for a drill like this one..............

[sparkythecat]

Teddy Lop said:

Core drills are built for high torque, low speed. If you use a standard drill for lots and lots of big cores, you knacker the motor controller and overheat the windings on the motor
Less of a distinction these days is the clutch. Years back it wasn't that uncommon for someone to wallop themselves in the face with the handle and/or throw themselves off a ladder when using a core with a regular drill. These days drills all seem to have a safety clutch anyway, but I suspect this is set at a lower torque to a core drill.

Been there done that in 1992

Fortunately it was only a 5 tread stepladder that I fell off when the drill handle caught me under the chin. but it bloody hurt none the less.

[EmBe]

F17SRF said:

Any recommendations on a rivet nut tool that uses a drill to pull the rivet instead of the hand held that you need to press?

I bought the heavy duty manual tool from https://www.dafra.co.uk/ a few weeks ago, it's been excellent (I was actually going to add it to this thread but never got round to it) - I see they do a drill adapter.
If the manual one is anything to go by, it should be pretty good.

[donkmeister]

Teddy Lop said:

donkmeister said:

Teddy Lop said:

Why are core drills so much more expensive than similarly specified non-core rated drills that makes them 3x the price? Don't bother to answer this I've been asking for years and never got a satisfactory answer, or indeed one from anyone with the faintest idea what theyre talking about.

Core drills are built for high torque, low speed. If you use a standard drill for lots and lots of big cores, you knacker the motor controller and overheat the windings on the motor.

Less of a distinction these days is the clutch. Years back it wasn't that uncommon for someone to wallop themselves in the face with the handle and/or throw themselves off a ladder when using a core with a regular drill. These days drills all seem to have a safety clutch anyway, but I suspect this is set at a lower torque to a core drill.

Torque and speed are a function of the gearbox, and many drills work within the same range as core specific drills, in fact many exceed them for torque, eg around 50nm is quoted for core rated drills but others such as the Milwaukee super hawg are 120nm but not core rated.

The only difference may be the clutch is designed to allow more torque and for more repeated abuse but if it's as simple as that why is it not an option on more drilling equipment rather than having to carry a special separate drill? My DeWalt mini breaker stylee I used for cores for years before I was doing them so often I decided to upgrade to the proper tool , which now sits while the trusty old breaker is pushed back into service!

The gearbox is used to provide additional speeds and therefore torque yes, however drills generally just have direct drive and a reduction. The the drill motor itself is spec'd for the job at hand in direct drive. It's like how you could gear down a 200bhp motorbike engine to replace a 200bhp diesel engine in a small lorry and it would still work, but you'll have a longer and more satisfactory service from an engine designed for that use case. It would be interesting to compare part numbers for the motors in equivalently powerful core and non core drills, to see if they are using the same motor... Not interesting enough for me to do it though!

Then there's the duty cycle. Core drills are running for many minutes continuously, with heavy load. Even the hardest worked SDS gets a few seconds rest between holes. So the cooling and/or heat resistance needs to be better on the core drill. You also have less flexibility of rpm with the core cutter itself, you don't want to be spinning a 162mm core at 1500rpm. So, the motor controller is beefier too.

YMMV, I too use cores with an SDS but I know it's not the best tool for the job. When I've rented core drills they just plug on competently.

[GeneralBanter]

I wish I’d bought a better angle grinder. The Black & Decker grinders first job was cutting 50x50x5mm steel angle and it overheated/burnt out on the SECOND cut !

[eltax91]

GeneralBanter said:

I wish I’d bought a better angle grinder. The Black & Decker grinders first job was cutting 50x50x5mm steel angle and it overheated/burnt out on the SECOND cut !

My makita one has been fantastic. Into my second Land Rover restoration and it’s not faltered once. It does get a little break though because I have a second grinder, a cheapo macallister from screw fix which exclusively has a wire wheel attached.

Would recommend either

ETA: somebody posted an m14 quick release locking nut up thread. That’s been invaluable on the makita to swap from 1mm slitting disc to soft pad to paint pad and back again

Edited by eltax91 on Tuesday 26th March 07:30

[loughran]

gtidriver said:

Promised Land said:

gtidriver said:

Ill have this up on the wall later over the weekend, my final few bits arrived today. I'm on the hunt for a 150mm ruler, should have bought it but didn't and now an out of stock item. Ill leave a space just incase I find it.

You mean a 150mm rule?

Rulers are kings and queens, you measure with a rule.

Thank you for pointing out my mistake, what a hero you are.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruler#:~:text=A%20ruler%2C%20sometimes%20called%20a,an%20edge%20of%20the%20device.