Tools you wish you'd bought sooner...
Discussion
cml24 said:
I don't own an impact driver, so I'm curious what the advantage is over a cordless drill?
I've only just bothered to buy a cordless drill (small 10.8v Bosch pro one) and have found it great and drilling and driving screws.
I have an air powered impact gun for the car, and in my head I'm I aging trying to drive s read in with that but I think I'm missing the point!
Their greatest advantage is removing screws and bolts. The ease with which they do it is almost comical.I've only just bothered to buy a cordless drill (small 10.8v Bosch pro one) and have found it great and drilling and driving screws.
I have an air powered impact gun for the car, and in my head I'm I aging trying to drive s read in with that but I think I'm missing the point!
cml24 said:
I don't own an impact driver, so I'm curious what the advantage is over a cordless drill?
Ignoring the obvious benefits, fatigue - the torque isn't constant, it's very high and repetitive so there's no "backlash" and you don't need to put any real effort into counterholding it.bobski1 said:
Use is a mix of fairly heavy DIY (full house renovation underway) plus so partial commercial use so ideally need something which will last.
One thing which is frustrating me is all the different sets from the same manufacturers
Got my eye on this one at the moment
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dck2060d2t-sfgb-...
I nearly bought the same kit but I allowed the normal budget creep and desire for a better model so went for this one instead.One thing which is frustrating me is all the different sets from the same manufacturers
Got my eye on this one at the moment
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dck2060d2t-sfgb-...
https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Dewalt-Dck266P...
Which is both better models for both tools and 2 X 5AH batteries for 70 quid extra. Well pleased with mine and as mentioned above the bigger batteries do improve performance as well as run time at the expense of extra weight and bulk.
Bill said:
A bit more money, but much bigger batteries: https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita-dlx2131tj-...
Not brushless but does that really matter?JimbobVFR said:
I nearly bought the same kit but I allowed the normal budget creep and desire for a better model so went for this one instead.
https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Dewalt-Dck266P...
Which is both better models for both tools and 2 X 5AH batteries for 70 quid extra. Well pleased with mine and as mentioned above the bigger batteries do improve performance as well as run time at the expense of extra weight and bulk.
I'd be okay with that but what exactly is the difference in the tools? First job of spring is to remove decking to clear out underneath and repair the steps so definitely need a good sethttps://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Dewalt-Dck266P...
Which is both better models for both tools and 2 X 5AH batteries for 70 quid extra. Well pleased with mine and as mentioned above the bigger batteries do improve performance as well as run time at the expense of extra weight and bulk.
cml24 said:
That's an overwhelmingly positive response! I'll have to try one when I get to my next big project, or at least borrow one to try the difference.
Sorry Bill, I can't even remember what I meant to type!
The power it has to drive in long screws into wood without tearing the st out of the screwhead is the main advantage. With a normal driver when it starts to slip the first thing you do is put all your weight behind it. Then if it still slips it starts to round the screwhead off and then your stuck and your not able to even remove the screw either.Sorry Bill, I can't even remember what I meant to type!
With an impact driver it's the drill internals that "slip" so that the bit doesnt slip out of the screwhead. How it does that is witchcraft but they are amazing bits of kit.
If you imagine the performance difference between drilling into brick with a percussion drill vs an sds drill and that's the difference between driver and impact.
bobski1 said:
I'd be okay with that but what exactly is the difference in the tools? First job of spring is to remove decking to clear out underneath and repair the steps so definitely need a good set
They're essentially a model or two up the range. My BIL has the Screwfix drill and mine in comparison is just slightly more powerful, not that you'd notice, very slightly more compact and a bit shorter and a bit more sturdy feeling and the work light is better.Nothing major just slightly better all round. I think it's worth the difference for the batteries IMO
I haven't compared the impact drivers but I did find this comparison on the internet
"Based on my research the 787 is a little bigger and heavier (5.5" @ 2.8#) than the 887 (5.3" @ 2#). Both are brushless and use the 20v batteries. DCF787: one (1) LED, 1500 in/lb torque, and has a variable speed trigger 2800 RPM and 3200 IPM.
DCF887: three (3) LED, 1825 in/lb torque, 3 speed switch 1000/2800/3250 RPM."
Which seems like a bigger difference than between the drills. I'm certainly impressed with the 887
I've built a bit of a collection of Makita cordless power tools, but now that you can get battery adapters to fit batteries from a different brand to your tool, such as a Dewalt battery to a Makita tool, then maybe I won't be so loyal anymore.
Edited by LeadFarmer on Thursday 30th January 22:47
darreni said:
I found the dewalt stuff was cheaper to buy as individual parts - i bought the 899 for £140 & the charger for £20 both from amazon & bought the 4ah battery for £40 locally.
If you want to make the 899 fly, use a FlexVolt 54v battery. It’s still in 18 volt mode, but it delivers far more grunt. JimbobVFR said:
They're essentially a model or two up the range. My BIL has the Screwfix drill and mine in comparison is just slightly more powerful, not that you'd notice, very slightly more compact and a bit shorter and a bit more sturdy feeling and the work light is better.
Nothing major just slightly better all round. I think it's worth the difference for the batteries IMO
I haven't compared the impact drivers but I did find this comparison on the internet
"Based on my research the 787 is a little bigger and heavier (5.5" @ 2.8#) than the 887 (5.3" @ 2#). Both are brushless and use the 20v batteries. DCF787: one (1) LED, 1500 in/lb torque, and has a variable speed trigger 2800 RPM and 3200 IPM.
DCF887: three (3) LED, 1825 in/lb torque, 3 speed switch 1000/2800/3250 RPM."
Which seems like a bigger difference than between the drills. I'm certainly impressed with the 887
I have the 887, I'm impressed with it. Also the low power mode is great for knocking together flat pack and the like where you don't want to over torque everything.Nothing major just slightly better all round. I think it's worth the difference for the batteries IMO
I haven't compared the impact drivers but I did find this comparison on the internet
"Based on my research the 787 is a little bigger and heavier (5.5" @ 2.8#) than the 887 (5.3" @ 2#). Both are brushless and use the 20v batteries. DCF787: one (1) LED, 1500 in/lb torque, and has a variable speed trigger 2800 RPM and 3200 IPM.
DCF887: three (3) LED, 1825 in/lb torque, 3 speed switch 1000/2800/3250 RPM."
Which seems like a bigger difference than between the drills. I'm certainly impressed with the 887
Jakg said:
cml24 said:
I don't own an impact driver, so I'm curious what the advantage is over a cordless drill?
Ignoring the obvious benefits, fatigue - the torque isn't constant, it's very high and repetitive so there's no "backlash" and you don't need to put any real effort into counterholding it.Later I tried to use the same drill/driver to torque up some M12 nuts on coach bolts on a climbing frame I had restored. The drill driver was completely the wrong tool. Once the nuts were tightened the drill whipped round in my hand and the battery whacked me in the face. I had a huge black eye for work all week.
PushedDover said:
:scractchin:
I have a climbing frame / deck to part dismantle for a Move.
Would this necessitate a purchase of an Impact gun...... how do normal bits / sockets like being used in them? or is it low 'impact' we are talking about here?
An impact driver is a “rotary hammer” - it knocks the screw round in a series of steps rather than using continuous torque.I have a climbing frame / deck to part dismantle for a Move.
Would this necessitate a purchase of an Impact gun...... how do normal bits / sockets like being used in them? or is it low 'impact' we are talking about here?
If you just want to crack off stuck screws or nuts you can use a manual impact driver:
and then use your usual tools to finish the job.
Not a tool as such but the best thing I've bought for the garage recently, from Costco.
13amp plug in (long lead) PIR controlled LED strip light.
I'm always popping in the Garage for something or other, I often forget to turn lights off, or if I do I'm back 10 mins later and turn them back on again.
With this as you walk in it comes on, and off when you've gone, magic.
13amp plug in (long lead) PIR controlled LED strip light.
I'm always popping in the Garage for something or other, I often forget to turn lights off, or if I do I'm back 10 mins later and turn them back on again.
With this as you walk in it comes on, and off when you've gone, magic.
Jambo85 said:
I’d have said the same a month ago but when I burned out my cheapo cordless drill just before Christmas knowing I had a lot of holes to drill and cables to run over the holidays I went to Screwfix and got the drill + driver set which was on offer at the time without thinking much - Makita stuff.
I’m now wondering if I will ever bother buying a cordless drill again!
Fast with loads of torque, hammery action and somehow less prone to camming out of screw heads.
You can do really mad st with them like screw Fisher fixings (big screws with star bit heads) straight into brick and concrete without drills or rawlplugs. Try doing that with a cordless drill. Similarly putting dirty great screws straight through 4 inch fenceposts. They're grrrrrrreat!I’m now wondering if I will ever bother buying a cordless drill again!
Fast with loads of torque, hammery action and somehow less prone to camming out of screw heads.
rxe said:
darreni said:
I found the dewalt stuff was cheaper to buy as individual parts - i bought the 899 for £140 & the charger for £20 both from amazon & bought the 4ah battery for £40 locally.
If you want to make the 899 fly, use a FlexVolt 54v battery. It’s still in 18 volt mode, but it delivers far more grunt. Dog Star said:
Jambo85 said:
I’d have said the same a month ago but when I burned out my cheapo cordless drill just before Christmas knowing I had a lot of holes to drill and cables to run over the holidays I went to Screwfix and got the drill + driver set which was on offer at the time without thinking much - Makita stuff.
I’m now wondering if I will ever bother buying a cordless drill again!
Fast with loads of torque, hammery action and somehow less prone to camming out of screw heads.
You can do really mad st with them like screw Fisher fixings (big screws with star bit heads) straight into brick and concrete without drills or rawlplugs. Try doing that with a cordless drill. Similarly putting dirty great screws straight through 4 inch fenceposts. They're grrrrrrreat!I’m now wondering if I will ever bother buying a cordless drill again!
Fast with loads of torque, hammery action and somehow less prone to camming out of screw heads.
I think it was a DeWalt, but it was a few years ago. I guess any decent brand would do the same.
skwdenyer said:
An impact driver is a “rotary hammer” - it knocks the screw round in a series of steps rather than using continuous torque.
If you just want to crack off stuck screws or nuts you can use a manual impact driver:
and then use your usual tools to finish the job.
I found those a bit crap. You have to properly belt it with a lump hammer, and the handle moves as you do, so it's quite hard to hold the end in place on the screw at the same time. Maybe just needs practice, but in the end I found it easier to cobble together a long sideways extension bar and do it the old fashioned way.If you just want to crack off stuck screws or nuts you can use a manual impact driver:
and then use your usual tools to finish the job.
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