low pressure on incoming water main
Discussion
Jasandjules said:
What is the pressure at your stop cock?
Unless the pipework is 1/100th inch I suspect a booster will push the water hard enough to work.
All the info I have about pressure etc is in the 1st post. They didn't measure the pressure at the stopcock, but at the kitchen tap it's 1.5 bar and flow of 8 litres/min. The shower (Bristan Glee) requires min 0.7 bar.Unless the pipework is 1/100th inch I suspect a booster will push the water hard enough to work.
I was really hoping that a mains booster pump would work, but stuart turner have said it won't "fix" the electric shower issue I have without a storage tank
Cheers
Toilet Duck said:
All the info I have about pressure etc is in the 1st post. They didn't measure the pressure at the stopcock, but at the kitchen tap it's 1.5 bar and flow of 8 litres/min. The shower (Bristan Glee) requires min 0.7 bar.
I was really hoping that a mains booster pump would work, but stuart turner have said it won't "fix" the electric shower issue I have without a storage tank
Cheers
Blimey 1.5 Bar is better than we got I was really hoping that a mains booster pump would work, but stuart turner have said it won't "fix" the electric shower issue I have without a storage tank
Cheers
I would say a decent plumber should be able to give you an option or two but having used three to get our whole house pump fitted, I am not so sure..
We fit these, Basicly a CWS with a pump attaches. But they are pretty big and can be abit noisey https://www.completepumpsupplies.co.uk/grundfos-4-...
dickymint said:
I stand by my initial post in that you are not allowed to "pump" from the mains - you can increase pressure yes but that's not what OP needs. OP needs more flow which can only be done with a storage tank between mains and pump.
This is the type pu pump that would be needed.https://www.anchorpumps.com/grundfos-4-5-bar-home-...
Had this problem with 2 1930 properties. With both just put in new supply pipe from mains. On first properyt meter was with property boundary builder dug trench(about 15mtrs) for stop tap in new position, connected to water meter. House stop tap in new position so just straight thro wall and connected- may be possible to do if you've got kitchen/utility on ground floor. Would then have to put new supply to top flat but this can be put in same trench and just need to find someway to connect to existing feed.New stop tap in porch if possible. Don't need to take out out lead pipe.
With second mains stop tap was outside property. Did same again cheap labourer to dig trench(about 40metres in clay!) put pipe in then water board came and connected to external stop tap and meter inside house
Cant see advantage of mole unless you've got obstruction( wall footings etc.) Just take easiest route for trench
Both worked fine- may want to think about water metres on each supply.
With second mains stop tap was outside property. Did same again cheap labourer to dig trench(about 40metres in clay!) put pipe in then water board came and connected to external stop tap and meter inside house
Cant see advantage of mole unless you've got obstruction( wall footings etc.) Just take easiest route for trench
Both worked fine- may want to think about water metres on each supply.
Edited by twokcc on Wednesday 17th October 09:37
I want to replace a lead supply pipe at home too. The pipe runs from the water meter in the road to the stopcock
The quotes I received were also circa £1000. Which seemed a lot to me. So I looked into what is involved.
Dig a trench, 0.75cm to 1.2m deep, line with sand. Mine is 5m long and lawn all the way.
Insert MDPE pipe, £40ish from Screwfix.
Pass MDPE through foundations into trunking (bit of stink pipe) and insulate.
Ring waterboard who inspect MPDE pipe, trench and if all is good connect new pipe to meter - for free.
Disconnect lead pipe from stopcock and connect MDPE. £30 for fittings at most.
Turn water back on at the road, check for leaks and refill the trench.
So the £1000 job can be done for less than £100, provided you're prepared to dig your own trench.
Must buy a trenching spade.
The quotes I received were also circa £1000. Which seemed a lot to me. So I looked into what is involved.
Dig a trench, 0.75cm to 1.2m deep, line with sand. Mine is 5m long and lawn all the way.
Insert MDPE pipe, £40ish from Screwfix.
Pass MDPE through foundations into trunking (bit of stink pipe) and insulate.
Ring waterboard who inspect MPDE pipe, trench and if all is good connect new pipe to meter - for free.
Disconnect lead pipe from stopcock and connect MDPE. £30 for fittings at most.
Turn water back on at the road, check for leaks and refill the trench.
So the £1000 job can be done for less than £100, provided you're prepared to dig your own trench.
Must buy a trenching spade.
twokcc said:
Cant see advantage of mole unless you've got obstruction( wall footings etc.) Just take easiest route for trench
Both worked fine- may want to think about water metres on each supply.
Reason for wanting it "moled" is because the front of the property is all block paved and I'm concerned if it's dug up it won't go back down the same Both worked fine- may want to think about water metres on each supply.
Not sure where you're based but the WRAS website has a search function for accredited companies that can mole. Ideally you want one that's on the WIAPS accreditation as I think it makes life easier in terms of getting the sign-off from your water authority for the free lead replacement connection.
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