Discussion
wolfracesonic said:
^ Axminster guide rail clamps, these might fit, a bit cheaper than the Festool ones!
Thanks found some excel ones for less, also bessey do a multi purpose one for c&40/pair.I'll see how a bangood festool clone works as well
elanfan said:
I did mention this here a few months back. My replacement table was delivered yesterday so the old damaged one is now available if someone with woodworking skills would like to have a go. It’s a Tapley 33 large light oak coffee table that needs repairing:
https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-dining-living-furn...
This is still available if someone from here wants to have a go with it I’ll take £25 for it so ignore the gumtree price. Someone can make a very nice and large coffee table from this. Good project for someonehttps://www.gumtree.com/p/other-dining-living-furn...
Edited by elanfan on Saturday 1st May 18:01
I don't know if this counts more as bodge than woodwork but if I wanted a strong plasterboard fixing, is there anything wrong with putting a piece of wood (say 10cm x 10xm x 18mm ply) behind the plasterboard and bolting to that? I can get my hand and small objects behind the plasterboard but not enough to attach a full wooden frame. I was going to use the spring toggle fixings, then I thought why not drill a smaller hole and screw the toggle to the bolt behind the plasterboard. It then occurred to be that all the toggle is going is spreading the load, so if I replaced the toggle with a small wood panel and put a bolt through the plasterboard and the wooden piece, that would be stronger? Within the limit of the plasterboard anyway? It would spread the load over a larger area which is the best you can do with plasterboard beyond a full frame behind it?
snowman99 said:
I don't know if this counts more as bodge than woodwork but if I wanted a strong plasterboard fixing, is there anything wrong with putting a piece of wood (say 10cm x 10xm x 18mm ply) behind the plasterboard and bolting to that? I can get my hand and small objects behind the plasterboard but not enough to attach a full wooden frame. I was going to use the spring toggle fixings, then I thought why not drill a smaller hole and screw the toggle to the bolt behind the plasterboard. It then occurred to be that all the toggle is going is spreading the load, so if I replaced the toggle with a small wood panel and put a bolt through the plasterboard and the wooden piece, that would be stronger? Within the limit of the plasterboard anyway? It would spread the load over a larger area which is the best you can do with plasterboard beyond a full frame behind it?
Nothing wrong in this at all, same as finding a stud to screw into, spreads the load.
king awful! If I was your kid I'd be over the moon =)Life is agreeably slow this week so I've done a bit on my new front door which I'm hoping to fit before winter. It's going to be glazed up top and panelled below. Painted on the outside, polished on the inside.
My wife found these stained glass panels at an antique fair over the weekend but however much I measured them I couldn't make them fit which is a shame because I do like the colours so perhaps I can have something similar made up in old glass.
Other than that, I spent the weekend oiling a couple more garden benches I made last week. I honestly never know what's best for garden furniture, I used Osmo UV protection oil last year but it really didn't fare that well. Oak just wants to start rotting as soon as it can, turning grey and getting covered all over in black spots.
The problem I've found with the Osmo is that it doesn't penetrate the wood at all and mainly just sits on the surface like a varnish. When it comes time for the springtime tart up there's so much sanding and scraping required and it's no fun at all.
This time I first doused the benches in wood preserver which really did seem to soak into the timber, let that dry for a few days then douse the benches in Textrol, the oil finish de jour, and wipe off with a soft cloth. It leaves a matt finish which doesn't sit on the surface and I'm hoping will be easily rejuvenated by brushing more on when the time comes.
Well that's what is says on the tin.
https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/textrol/
My wife found these stained glass panels at an antique fair over the weekend but however much I measured them I couldn't make them fit which is a shame because I do like the colours so perhaps I can have something similar made up in old glass.
Other than that, I spent the weekend oiling a couple more garden benches I made last week. I honestly never know what's best for garden furniture, I used Osmo UV protection oil last year but it really didn't fare that well. Oak just wants to start rotting as soon as it can, turning grey and getting covered all over in black spots.
The problem I've found with the Osmo is that it doesn't penetrate the wood at all and mainly just sits on the surface like a varnish. When it comes time for the springtime tart up there's so much sanding and scraping required and it's no fun at all.
This time I first doused the benches in wood preserver which really did seem to soak into the timber, let that dry for a few days then douse the benches in Textrol, the oil finish de jour, and wipe off with a soft cloth. It leaves a matt finish which doesn't sit on the surface and I'm hoping will be easily rejuvenated by brushing more on when the time comes.
Well that's what is says on the tin.
https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/textrol/
loughran said:
Life is agreeably slow this week so I've done a bit on my new front door which I'm hoping to fit before winter. It's going to be glazed up top and panelled below. Painted on the outside, polished on the inside.
Have you ever used linseed oil paint Loughran? I disappeared down a rabbit hole reading about it the other day, seems interesting stuff.Linseed oil paint.......
I worked in a cigar factory where the girls sat at a machine rolling cigars. If a machine needed refurb then after mechanicals and electrics were done it would be painted. The painter used to use linseed oil to thin the paint slightly and he brushed it on. It was a bit slower drying but gave a nice finish. The downside was he was a bit heavy handed and moving parts could get stuck by paint. The colour was a standard beige similar to the original with safety areas and devices red. End of day scrubbing with kitchen brushes ( Addis) by the girls didn’t seem to remove paint.
I worked in a cigar factory where the girls sat at a machine rolling cigars. If a machine needed refurb then after mechanicals and electrics were done it would be painted. The painter used to use linseed oil to thin the paint slightly and he brushed it on. It was a bit slower drying but gave a nice finish. The downside was he was a bit heavy handed and moving parts could get stuck by paint. The colour was a standard beige similar to the original with safety areas and devices red. End of day scrubbing with kitchen brushes ( Addis) by the girls didn’t seem to remove paint.
wolfracesonic said:
Have you ever used linseed oil paint Loughran? I disappeared down a rabbit hole reading about it the other day, seems interesting stuff.
I have, took ages to dry, but a few years on it's still in good nick. But then I also used a load of cheap B&Q Valspar paint and that's been out in all weathers for 4 years now and is also immaculate.
I've been using up some scraps of hardwood - my cousin moved into her new timber-framed house last week so it seemed fitting I make her a tray from scrap ash, oak and walnut (I shamelessly stole the idea from loghran a few months ago) as a housewarming present.
Finished with melamine laquer as she intends to use it to put drinks on so it needed to be something that would stand up to some wear and tear from icy glasses, alcohol etc.
Wife and sister want one each now...
Finished with melamine laquer as she intends to use it to put drinks on so it needed to be something that would stand up to some wear and tear from icy glasses, alcohol etc.
Wife and sister want one each now...
Quick wood related question.
I have a oak worktop for my garage, I need to cut a notch out for a pipe and angle one of the ends with a straight line cut.
I only have a mitre saw, which obviously won’t help. Without spending the earth and hopefully only buying one tool, I was thinking a router would do both cuts. What do you think?
Worktop is 40mm
I have a oak worktop for my garage, I need to cut a notch out for a pipe and angle one of the ends with a straight line cut.
I only have a mitre saw, which obviously won’t help. Without spending the earth and hopefully only buying one tool, I was thinking a router would do both cuts. What do you think?
Worktop is 40mm
Same, when I was starting out and didn't trust myself to cut things accurately, I used to waste loads of time rough cutting timber, plywood, worktops, then finishing to the exact dimension with a router.
It does waste a lot of time, but if you want a guaranteed bang on cut you can't beat it for accuracy and finish, plus there's not many tools as flexible.
If you have an offcut of plywood you have a known good straight edge. Screw that piece onto another pieces of plywood that is wider, set the top piece back from the edge by slightly more than the distance between the edge of your router base and the edge of your trim bit. Now when you run your router along the straight edge it will trim off the excess from the bottom piece and leave you with a perfect guide for that router/bit combination.
Drop it on your cut, clamp it down and run the router along and you'll get a perfect cut.
It does waste a lot of time, but if you want a guaranteed bang on cut you can't beat it for accuracy and finish, plus there's not many tools as flexible.
If you have an offcut of plywood you have a known good straight edge. Screw that piece onto another pieces of plywood that is wider, set the top piece back from the edge by slightly more than the distance between the edge of your router base and the edge of your trim bit. Now when you run your router along the straight edge it will trim off the excess from the bottom piece and leave you with a perfect guide for that router/bit combination.
Drop it on your cut, clamp it down and run the router along and you'll get a perfect cut.
Mark Benson said:
I've been using up some scraps of hardwood - my cousin moved into her new timber-framed house last week so it seemed fitting I make her a tray from scrap ash, oak and walnut (I shamelessly stole the idea from loghran a few months ago) as a housewarming present.
Finished with melamine laquer as she intends to use it to put drinks on so it needed to be something that would stand up to some wear and tear from icy glasses, alcohol etc.
Wife and sister want one each now...
Finished with melamine laquer as she intends to use it to put drinks on so it needed to be something that would stand up to some wear and tear from icy glasses, alcohol etc.
Wife and sister want one each now...
I was think of making a cutting board for my new neighbours, but I think I might borrow the tray idea now.
gtidriver said:
Its our sons birthday on Sunday, a few members of the family are over on Monday evening, I was asked by the wife to make a new charcuterie board, here it is.. a lovely piece of walnut, it was a little bigger but with a few tools it looked much better.
Lovely!Though unless I've misjudged the size, I'm not sure I could lift that.
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