Discussion
One of the family businesses where I work a couple of days a week will be celebrating it's 40th anniversary in July.
It was set up by a husband and wife team. The husband used to promote the place to customers as "the best in the West."
Taking this as inspiration I took some scraps of pine and oak board. Cut them on an OSB jig to get the angles, made a "Sheriff's badge" that they can hang on the wall of the premises.
Stuck on some off the shelf MDF letters and numbers to save time.
It was set up by a husband and wife team. The husband used to promote the place to customers as "the best in the West."
Taking this as inspiration I took some scraps of pine and oak board. Cut them on an OSB jig to get the angles, made a "Sheriff's badge" that they can hang on the wall of the premises.
Stuck on some off the shelf MDF letters and numbers to save time.
2354519y said:
One of the family businesses where I work a couple of days a week will be celebrating it's 40th anniversary in July.
It was set up by a husband and wife team. The husband used to promote the place to customers as "the best in the West."
Taking this as inspiration I took some scraps of pine and oak board. Cut them on an OSB jig to get the angles, made a "Sheriff's badge" that they can hang on the wall of the premises.
Stuck on some off the shelf MDF letters and numbers to save time.
That’s awesome! Really nice thing to do, nice one It was set up by a husband and wife team. The husband used to promote the place to customers as "the best in the West."
Taking this as inspiration I took some scraps of pine and oak board. Cut them on an OSB jig to get the angles, made a "Sheriff's badge" that they can hang on the wall of the premises.
Stuck on some off the shelf MDF letters and numbers to save time.
AJLintern said:
I'm trying to make some thicker section oak by laminating a few thinner pieces. Currently using exterior grade PVA as it's rather less messy than PU adhesive - but will it be strong enough and as long lasting? The parts will be forming a modified external door frame.
Yes plenty strong enough. Pva is typically around as strong as pu for wood joints, if not slightly better because you don't have to worry about it foaming up and pushing the joint apart. I'm making some raised concrete planters which will be rendered and white. I want to tops the planters with wood of which will overhang on the outward face to incorporate a drip bead and a recess for led strip lighting which will be hidden from eye and will wash down the side of the planters.
I'm also making some seating on top of gabion baskets and so will use the same wood to top that off. I'm happy to edge laminate to get the span for seating.
So the question, what wood would you suggest I use? Mega expensive exotic timbers are out as I do need to keep the expense to something sensible as I'll need a fair amount. TIA
I'm also making some seating on top of gabion baskets and so will use the same wood to top that off. I'm happy to edge laminate to get the span for seating.
So the question, what wood would you suggest I use? Mega expensive exotic timbers are out as I do need to keep the expense to something sensible as I'll need a fair amount. TIA
Anyone got any bunk bed tips? I’ve been asked to make one with a double at the bottom and single on top. YouTube has some straight forward one using 4 posts of 2x4 and 2x6 joined together which seems easy and not too ugly. The ones online for sale though are all made out of white melamine stuff. I guess I could fix that to the wooden frame? I’m not sure I feel it made entirely from that stuff is study enough / too flat pack but never used them.
Then the wife wants stairs going up the the top bunk with storage under each step and under the bottom bed. Trying to persuade her not to have drawers as that’s a lot of extra work. But the white board does look good here. Is there better and worse quality melamine board? I assume the price is double what it used to be?
Then you have edging albeit I guess iron on or order it pre made and cut are the options?
Then the wife wants stairs going up the the top bunk with storage under each step and under the bottom bed. Trying to persuade her not to have drawers as that’s a lot of extra work. But the white board does look good here. Is there better and worse quality melamine board? I assume the price is double what it used to be?
Then you have edging albeit I guess iron on or order it pre made and cut are the options?
Origin Unknown said:
What are people using to treat oak that lives outside? Osmo do a clear uv protector. Sika too.
I use Osmo a lot on indoor stuff but I've never found anything that works indefinitely outdoors so I go on the assumption that I'll re-apply once a year, therefore I don't go for the expensive stuff.I'm refurbishing a cast iron garden bench at the moment and using iroko for the slats, they'll just be treated yearly with Teak oil.
Richie C said:
There seems to be a lot of talent on this thread, wondering if anyone knows anything about wooden doors? In particular, if it's possible to fix an external door that has bowed out at the top and bottom?
You could take it off and plane the raised areas if it's solid wood but you can't 'unbend' bowed wood easily.Origin Unknown said:
What are people using to treat oak that lives outside? Osmo do a clear uv protector. Sika too.
It is a perennial question, how to preserve wood that, given half a chance, would much rather rot into the ground.This year I'm mainly using Textrol by Owatrol because I've heard it's good, I like their other products and I've tried everything else without success.
At the end of the day, unless you store your oak garden furniture indoors over the winter and treat it to a good sanding and a fresh coat of whatever every springtime, you lovely oak furniture will become junk in a few short years.
2354519y said:
Le Tonkinois is new to me, the reviews as a boat varnish look great, is this a finish you use ?
loughran said:
It is a perennial question, how to preserve wood that, given half a chance, would much rather rot into the ground.
This year I'm mainly using Textrol by Owatrol because I've heard it's good, I like their other products and I've tried everything else without success.
At the end of the day, unless you store your oak garden furniture indoors over the winter and treat it to a good sanding and a fresh coat of whatever every springtime, you lovely oak furniture will become junk in a few short years.
Hey Loughran. Having read the datasheet for Textrol, it states it should not be used on new wood, but instead to use SEASONITE. The SEASONITE datasheet states do not use on Oak!This year I'm mainly using Textrol by Owatrol because I've heard it's good, I like their other products and I've tried everything else without success.
At the end of the day, unless you store your oak garden furniture indoors over the winter and treat it to a good sanding and a fresh coat of whatever every springtime, you lovely oak furniture will become junk in a few short years.
Not looking for you to warranty etc etc, have you used Textrol on new oak and how has it faired so far?
Cheers
Hi, I did use Textrol on my latest batch of oak garden benches. It went on much the same as any other oil finish and a month later looks much the same as any other oil finish. I kept one bench for myself this time so I'll be able to see how the Textrol finish turns out but my initial thought is that I wish I'd fumed my bench a bit before oiling to take the edge off the I'M A NEW BENCH ! look. A couple of hours in a tent with a saucer of 25% pure ammonia would have made all the difference.
I did read the advice that Textrol should not be used on new wood but the list of benefits were so great I thought I'd try it anyway.
It is unusual for an oil finish in as much as it doesn't develop a sheen. It's rather matt with a slightly agricultural feel.
I'm not sure why Seasonite should not be applied to oak, it appears to be formulated for softwoods only, perhaps it contains something that reacts with the tannins in oak.
Like many of the wood finish manufactures Owatrol offer a wide range of products, each specifically formulated to tackle a particular threat to my garden bench and it's tricky to know which one to use first.
https://owatrol-international.com/en/housing/exter...
Maybe D1 Pro is the way to go ?
Whilst you're deciding, have a read of this thread from over on UK Workshop. (I think it was posted here sometime earlier ?}
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/external-irok...
But to answer your question, It's much too soon for me to say whether Textrol is good enough. I'll let you know how things have gone when, at the end of September, I pack my bench away inside for the winter.
Till then...
I did read the advice that Textrol should not be used on new wood but the list of benefits were so great I thought I'd try it anyway.
It is unusual for an oil finish in as much as it doesn't develop a sheen. It's rather matt with a slightly agricultural feel.
I'm not sure why Seasonite should not be applied to oak, it appears to be formulated for softwoods only, perhaps it contains something that reacts with the tannins in oak.
Like many of the wood finish manufactures Owatrol offer a wide range of products, each specifically formulated to tackle a particular threat to my garden bench and it's tricky to know which one to use first.
https://owatrol-international.com/en/housing/exter...
Maybe D1 Pro is the way to go ?
Whilst you're deciding, have a read of this thread from over on UK Workshop. (I think it was posted here sometime earlier ?}
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/external-irok...
But to answer your question, It's much too soon for me to say whether Textrol is good enough. I'll let you know how things have gone when, at the end of September, I pack my bench away inside for the winter.
Till then...
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